ALBERT

Description: The continental shelf off the northeastern coast of the United States was the first of our offshore coastal areas to be charted in detail by the Coast and Geodetic Survey, starting on Georges Bank in 1930. The techniques responsible for this increased accuracy in offshore waters were first described by Rudé (1938) and have been constantly improved. From these soundings Veatch and Smith (1939) compiled their set of contour charts aided by a grant from the Penrose Bequest of the Geological Society of America. These soundings reopened the submarine canyon problem first commented upon by Dana (1863), which had gradually lapsed into obscurity from insuffcient data. The reader is, of course, well aware of the major controversy, with all its far reaching implications, which has been precipitated since the 1930 surveys of Georges Bank were brought to the attention of geologists by Shepard (1933). As more of the new surveys were completed, data from the field sheets were kindly furnished by the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey to the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution for use in dredging and coring operations. This field work, first reported in 1936, was continued from time to time until 1941 as new soundings became available. Rock dredging and coring has been carried out in every major canyon on the slope from Corsair Canyon at the tip of Georges Bank to Norfolk Canyon off the entrance to the Chesapeake (Fig. I). Numerous cores have also been taken from the areas in between; and while the whole slope from Georges to the Chesapeake has not been covered, it is believed that no significant areas have been missed. In fact, cores from the slope taken during the summers of 1940 and 1941 have yielded results that are corroborative rather than new. In 1938 on a cruise from Hudson Gorge to Norfolk Canyon, cores were taken on the slope in areas which Veatch had considered to be the most important (personal communication). In the following report the tows and cores will be described by areas from Georges Bank southwards, as the same region was revisited in successive years. The various samples, however, will be referred to by number followed by the year in which they were taken. The material is in storage in the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution and in the Museum of Comparative Zoology at Harvard University. The late Joseph A. Cushman was kind enough to identify the Foraminifera which have been obtained in tows from the canyon walls and in cores, except for those described in Appendix A which is contributed by Fred B Phleger, Jr. Most of the type material is in storage in the Museum of Comparative Zoology, although at the present writing some is in the Cushman Laboratory in Sharon, Massachusetts. I am indebted to Lloyd W. Stephenson for identifying a molluscan fauna from one of the canyons, and to W. C. Mansfield who has reported on another formation. Numerous discussions with Percy E. Raymond have, as usual, proved most helpful, and thanks are also due to Eugenia C. Lambert for performing the mechanical analyses and to Constance French for other laboratory assistance. Phleger (1939, 1942, 1946) has previously published on the Foraminifera from the slope and deep water cores. This material is, at present, at Scripps Institution of Oceanography.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February, 2006

Description: In this thesis, I present high-resolution stable-isotope and planktonic-fauna records from Bering Sea sediment cores, spanning the time period from 50,000 years ago to the present. During Marine Isotope Stage 3 (MIS3) at 30-20 ky BP (kiloyears before present) in a core from 1467m water depth near Umnak Plateau, there were episodic occurrences of diagenetic carbonate minerals with very low δ13C (-22:4h), high δ18O (6.5h), and high [Mg]/[Ca], which seem associated with sulfate reduction of organic matter and possibly anaerobic oxidation of methane. The episodes lasted less than 1000 years and were spaced about 1000 years apart. During MIS3 at 55-20 ky BP in a core from 2209m water depth on Bowers Ridge, N. pachyderma (s.) and Uvigerina δ18O and δ13C show no coherent variability on millennial time scales. Bering Sea sediments are dysoxic or laminated during the deglaciation. A high sedimentation rate core (200 cm/ky) from 1132m on the Bering Slope is laminated during the Bolling warm phase, Allerod warm phase, and early Holocene, where the ages of lithological transitions agree with the ages of those climate events in Greenland (GISP2) to well within the uncertainty of the age models. The subsurface distribution of radiocarbon was estimated from a compilation of published and unpublished North Pacific benthic-planktonic 14C measurements (475-2700 m water depth). There was no consistent change in 14C profiles between the present and the Last Glacial Maximum, Bolling-Allerod, or the Younger Dryas cold phase. N. pachyderma (s.) δ18O in the Bering Slope core decreases rapidly (in less than 220 y) by 0.7-0.8% at the onset of the Bolling and the end of the Younger Dryas. These isotopic shifts are accompanied by transient decreases in the relative abundance of N. pachyderma (s.), suggesting that the isotopic events are transient warmings and sustained freshenings.

Description: The work in this thesis was supported by the National Science Foundation award OPP-9912122 to Lloyd Keigwin, the Oak Foundation of Boston, Massachusetts, the Stanley Watson Fellowship, the Paul Fye Fellowship, and the Academic Programs Office at WHOI.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution October, 1977.

Description: Sediment traps designed to yield quantitative data of particulate fluxes have been deployed and successfully recovered on four moorings in the deep sea. The traps were designed after extensive calibration of different shapes of containers. Further intercalibration of trap design was made in field experiments over a range of current velocities. Experiments with Niskin bottles showed that concentrations of suspended particulate matter obtained with standard filtration methods were low and had to be increased by an average factor of 1.5 to correct for particles settling below the sampling spigot. The trap arrays were designed to sample the particulate fluxes both immediately above and within the nepheloid layer. The data derived from the traps have been used to estimate vertical fluxes of particles including, for the first time, an attempt to distinguish between the flux of material settling from the upper water column (the "primary flux") and material which has been resuspended from some region of the sea floor (resuspension flux). From these data and measurements of the net nepheloid standing crop of particles one can also estimate a residence time for particles resuspended in the nepheloid layer. This residence time appears to be on the order of days to weeks in the bottom 15 m of the water column and weeks to months in the bottom 100 m. Between 80% and 90% of the particles collected in the six traps where particle size was measured were less than 63 μm. The mean size of particles collected in the nepheloid layer was about 20 μm, and above the nepheloid layer the mean was 11 μm. Less than 3% of the organic carbon produced in the photic zone at the trap sites was collected as primary flux 500 m above the sea floor. The primary flux measured at two sites was enough to supply 75% on the upper Rise and 160% on the mid Rise of the organic carbon needed for respiration and for burial in the accumulating sediments. From an intercomparison of the composition of particles falling rapidly (collected in traps), falling slowly or not at all (collected in water bottles), and resting on the sea floor (from a core top), it was determined that elements associated with biogenic matter, such as Ca, Sr, Cu, and I, were carried preferentially by the particles falling rapidly. Once the particles reached the bottom, the concentration of those elements was decreased through decomposition, respiration, or dissolution. Dissolution appears rapid in the vicinity of the sea floor, because despite an abundance of radiolarians, diatoms, and juvenile foraminifera collected in all traps, these forms were rare in core samples. The dynamic nature of thenepheloid layer makes it possible for particles to be resuspended many times before they are finally buried. This enables sediment to be carried long distances from its origin. The recycling of particles near the sea floor may increase dissolution of silicious and carbonate matter.

Description: Financial aid was provided in the form of a research assistantship from the Office of Naval Research through MIT and WHOI.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September, 1975

Description: Erosion processes involving fine-grained marine sediments were studied by using an in situ flume to erode undisturbed bottom sediments on the sea floor in Buzzards Bay, a shallow marine embayment off the Massachusetts coast. Tte muddy sea floor in that area is characterized by a deposit-feeding infauna that reworks the sediments. Observations made with the in situ flume suggest that erosion resistance of compacted bottom sediments is up to twice as great as the erosion resistance of biogenically reworked sediments. Estimates of erosional bed shear stress from the in situ flume experiments are similar to estimates made during this study of bed shear stress developed in near-bottom tidal currents. It is inferred that erosion by the in situ flume produces reasonable estimates of bed shear stress necessary to erode undisturbed bottom sediments on the sea floor. Buzzards Bay muds were redeposited in a laboratory flume and eroded after various periods of reworking by the deposit-feeding organisms contained in them. Other Buzzards Bay mud samples were treated to remove organic matter, and the erosion resistance of flat beds of these sediments was also investigated in a laboratory flume. The surface of a biogenically reworked bed after two months was covered with mounds, burrows, trails, and aggregates composed of sediments and organic material. This bed was similar in appearance to many of the beds eroded by the in situ flume. The two month bed eroded at an erosional shear stress similar to the erosional shear stress necessary to erode the in situ Buzzards Bay muds (0.8 dynes/cm2 ) . Beds biogenically reworked for shorter periods had high values of erosional shear stress, up to twice that of the two month bed. The bed shear stress necessary to erode flat beds of Buzzards Bay sediments increased as the concentration of organic matter in the sediments increased. Deposit-feeders were absent in these beds, and the mode of deposition was kept uniform, so the increase of erosion resistance with increase in organic content is considered a reliable indication of sediment behavior, and not an artifact of experimental conditions. During the in situ experiments, lee drifts were created behind resistant roughness elements on the sea floor. A brief study of lee drift formation in the laboratory suggests that the formation of lee drifts from fine-grained sediments can be predicted to take place when the body Reynolds number of the resistant roughness elements is below a critical value.

Description: The Office of Naval Research supported this research and provided salary support through grants to the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August 1982

Description: In an effort to understand the more general mechanisms and rates of pre-depositional reactions that transform organic matter, the types and relevant time scales of reactions that transform carotenoid pigments in the oceanic water column were studied. Suspended particulate matter collected from surface waters of Buzzards Bay, Massachusetts and the Peru upwelling system has a carotenoid distribution reflecting the phytoplanktonic source of the material. The carotenoid distribution of sediment trap samples collected in these same areas was dominated by transformation products. Fucoxanthin, the primary carotenoid of marine diatoms, typically constituted 77-100% of the total fucopigments in suspended particulate material. In sediment trap samples this pigment constituted only 4-85% of the total. The remaining 15-96% of the pigments consisted of the fucoxanthin transformations products: free alcohols (2-94%), dehydrates (0-6%), and opened epoxides (0-19%). Preliminary results suggest that carotenoid esters are hydrolyzed to free alcohols at a rate determined by the turnover of primary productivity. The dehydrated and epoxide opened intermediates of fucoxanthin represent products of transformation reactions that operate over much longer time scales (0.1-10 yrs). Dehydration and epoxide opening are not significant water column transformations, but are important in surface sediments.

Description: This research was supported by the Ocean Sciences Section, National Science Foundation grants OCE 79-25352 and OCE 81-18436, the Office of Naval Research Contract N00014-74-Co-262NR 083-004, the Woods Hole Coastal Research Center project 25 000067 04, and a Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Student Fellowship.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution May 1980

Description: This study of particulate matter in the water column and the underlying surface sediments verifies the occurrence of local, present-day resuspension in the deep sea. The location of the major portion of this work was the South Iceland Rise, a region influenced by the flow of Norwegian Sea Overflow Water. Measured current velocities exceeded 20 cm/sec in the axis of the bottom current for the duration of the deployments, approximately two weeks. Particulate matter was sampled with Niskin bottles, to obtain the standing crop of suspended matter and with sediment traps, to obtain the material in flux through the water column. Box cores were taken to obtain surface sediment samples for comparison with the trap samples. Suspended particulate matter (SPM) and light-scattering studies demonstrate that in the Iceland Rise area the correlation of the L-DGO nephelometer to concentration of SPM differs between clear water and the nepheloid layer. Correlations of light scattering to SPM concentration also differ regionally, but for predicting concentration from light scattering, regression lines at two locations are indistinguishable. Particle size distributions have lower variance in the nepheloid layer than those in clear water which have roughly equal volumes of material in logarithmically increasing size grades from 1-20 μm. Apparent density differences between SPM in clear water and the nepheloid layer are not distinguishable in the Iceland Rise study; apparent densities increase in the nepheloid layer in the western North Atlantic. An apparent density of 1.1 g/cm3 adequately separates clear water from nepheloid layer samples in this region. Compositional variations seen between clear water and the nepheloid layer include a decrease in small coccoliths and an increase in clays and mineral matter. These compositional variations are more dramatic in the western North Atlantic region, due to dissolution of carbonate at the seafloor, later resuspended into the nepheloid layer. Sedimentological evidence of resuspension and redistribution of material are: 1) presence of sediment drifts throughout the Iceland Basin; 2) occurrence of coarse, glacial age sediments beneath the axis of the bottom current; and 3) differences in mineralogy, carbonate and organic carbon contents between surface sediments beneath the bottom current and those in a channel. A comparison of the vertical flux of material measured by sediment traps at 500 meters above bottom (mab) with the accumulation rate in cores, shows that the present-day surface input is an order of magnitude smaller than the accumulation rate. This observation suggests transport of material into some sections of the region by bottom currents or by turbidity currents. The horizontal flux of particulate matter into and out of the region by the bottom current is 100 kg/sec. This material may contribute to the formation of Gardar sediment drift downstream. The trends in % CaC03 and % organic carbon through the water column and in the surface sediments suggest that dissolution of carbonate and decomposition and consumption of organic carbon occurs primarily at the seafloor. These data also suggest preferential preservation at channel stations and/or preferential erosion beneath the bottom current. A comparison of sediment-trap samples with box-core surface samples further supports present-day resuspension. Benthic foraminifera, iron-oxidicoated planktonic foraminifera and the glacial, subpolar planktonic foraminifera (Neogloboquadrina pachyderma (sinistral)) in traps at 10,100 and a few specimens at 500 mab, provide conclusive evidence for local resuspension. The coarse fraction (〉125 μm) of the sediment trap material collected at 10 mab comprises 21-34% of the samples Calculations indicate that this material is locally derived (few kilometers) resuspended material.

Description: This work was financially supported by the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, ONR through contracts N00014-79-C-00-7l NR 083-004, N00014-74-C0262 NR 083-004, and N00014-75-C-029l and ERDA through contracts 13-7923 and 13-2559.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2003

Description: The cosmogenic radionuclide 10Be is a unique tracer of shallow sediment subduction in volcanic arcs. The range in 10Be enrichment in the Central American Volcanic Arc between Guatemala and Costa Rica is not controlled by variations in 10Be concentrations in subducting sediment seaward of the Middle America Trench. Sedimentary 10Be is correlated negatively with 143Nd/144Nd, illustrating that 10Be concentrations varied both between and within cores due to mixing between terrigenous clay and volcanic ash endmember components. This mixing behavior was determined to be a function of grain size controls on 10Be concentrations. A negative correlation of bulk sedimentary 10Be concentrations with median grain size and a positive correlation with the proportion of the sediment grains that were 〈32 μm in diameter demonstrated that high concentrations of 10Be in fine-grained, terrigenous sediments were diluted by larger grained volcanogenic material. The sharp decrease in 10Be enrichment in the Central American Volcanic Arc between southeastern Nicaragua and northwestern Costa Rica correlates with changes in fault structure in the subducting Cocos plate. Offshore of Nicaragua, extensional faults associated with plate bending have throw equal to or greater than the overlying subducting sediment thickness. These faults enable efficient subduction of the entire sediment package by preventing relocation of the décollement within the downgoing sediments. Offshore of Costa Rica, the reduction of fault relief results in basement faults that do not penetrate the overlying sediment. A conceptual model is proposed in which the absence of significant basement roughness allows the décollement to descend into the subducting sediment column, leading to subsequent underplating and therefore removal of the bulk of the sediment layer that contains 10Be. Basement fault relief was linearly related to plate curvature and trench depth. The systematic shoaling of the plate from southeastern Nicaragua to northwestern Costa Rica is not explained by changes in plate age for this region. Instead, it is hypothesized that the flexural shape of the plate offshore of southeastern Nicaragua and northwestern Costa Rica represents a lateral response to a buoyant load caused by the thick crust and elevated thermal regime in the Cocos plate offshore of southeastern Costa Rica.

Description: Funding for this work was provided by the National Science Foundation Graduate Research Fellowship, the WHOI Ocean Ventures Fund, the WHOI Deep Ocean Institute Graduate Fellowship, and Geological Society of America Graduate Research Grant #7179-02.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution June 2003

Description: This thesis examines the evolution of a mud-dominated coastal sedimentary system on multiple time scales. Fine-grained systems exhibit different properties and behavior from sandy coasts, and have received relatively little research attention to date. Evidence is presented for shoreline accretion under energetic conditions associated with storms and winter cold fronts. The identification of energetic events as agents of coastal accretion stands in contrast to the traditional assumption that low-energy conditions are required for deposition of fine-grained sediment. Mudflat accretion is proposed to depend upon the presence of an unconsolidated mud sea floor immediately offshore, proximity to a fluvial sediment source, onshore winds, which generate waves that resuspend sediment and advect it shoreward, and a low tidal range. This study constrains the present influence of the Atchafalaya River on stratigraphic evolution of the inner continental shelf in western Louisiana. Sedimentary and acoustic data are used to identify the western limit of the distal Atchafalaya prodelta and to estimate the proportion of Atchafalaya River sediment that accumulates on the inner shelf seaward of Louisiana's chenier plain coast. The results demonstrate a link between sedimentary facies distribution on the inner shelf and patterns of accretion and shoreline retreat on the chenier plain coast.

Description: Among my funding sources was a two-year fellowship from the Clare Booth Luce Foundation. I have received research grants from the Geological Society of America Foundation (Grant 6873-01) and the American Association of Petroleum Geologists (Kenneth H. Crandall Memorial grant).

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2009

Description: Observations and inverse models suggest that small-scale turbulent mixing is enhanced in the Southern Ocean in regions above rough topography. The enhancement extends 1 km above the topography suggesting that mixing is supported by breaking of gravity waves radiated from the ocean bottom. In other regions, gravity wave radiation by bottom topography has been primarily associated with the barotropic tide. In this study, we explore the alternative hypothesis that the enhanced mixing in the Southern Ocean is sustained by internal waves generated by geostrophic motions flowing over bottom topography. Weakly-nonlinear theory is used to describe the internal wave generation and the feedback of the waves on the zonally averaged flow. A major finding is that the waves generated at the ocean bottom at finite inverse Froude numbers drive vigorous inertial oscillations. The wave radiation and dissipation at equilibrium is therefore the result of both geostrophic flow and inertial oscillations and differs substantially from the classical lee wave problem. The theoretical predictions are tested versus two-dimensional and three-dimensional high resolution numerical simulations with parameters representative of the Drake Passage region. Theory and fully nonlinear numerical simulations are used to estimate internal wave radiation from LADCP, CTD and topography data from two regions in the Southern Ocean: Drake Passage and the Southeast Pacific. The results show that radiation and dissipation of internal waves generated by geostrophic motions reproduce the magnitude and distribution of dissipation measured in the region.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution December 1985

Description: Samples from time-series sediment traps deployed in three distinct oceanographic settings (North Pacific, Panama Basin, and Black Sea) provide strong evidence for rapid settling of marine particles by aggregates. Particle water column residence times were determined by measuring the time lag between the interception of a flux event in a shallow trap and the interception of the same event in a deeper trap at the same site. Effective sinking speeds were determined by dividing the vertical offset of the traps (meters) by the interception lag time (days). At station Papa in the North Pacific, all particles settle at 175 m day-1, regardless of their composition, indicating that all types of material may be settling in common packages. Evidence from the other two sites (Panama Basin and Black Sea) shows that particle transport may be vertical, lateral, or a combination of directions, with much of the Black Sea flux signal being dominated by lateral input. In order to ascertain whether marine snow aggregates represent viable transport packages, surveys were conducted of the abundance of these aggregates at several stations in the eastern North Atlantic and Panama Basin using a photographic technique. Marine snow aggregates were found in concentrations ranging from ~1 mm3 liter-1 to more than 500 mm3 liter-1. In open ocean environments, abundances are higher near the surface (production) and decline with depth (decomposition). However, in areas near sources of deep input of resuspended material, concentrations reach mid-water maxima, reflecting lateral transport. A model is proposed to relate the observed aggregate abundances, time series sediment flux and inferred circulation. In this model, depthwise variations in sediment flux and aggregate abundance result from suspension from the sea floor and lateral transport of suspended aggregates which were produced or modified on the sea floor. Temporal changes in sediment flux result from variations in the input of fast-sinking material which falls from the surface, intercepts the suspended aggregates, and transports them to the sea floor. A new combination sediment trap and camera system was built and deployed in the Panama Basin with the intent of measuring the flux of marine snow aggregates. This device consists of a cylindrical tube which is open at the top and sealed at the bottom by a clear plate. Material lying on the bottom plate is illuminated by strobe lights mounted in the wall of the cylinder and photographed by a camera which is positioned below the bottom plate. Flux is determined as the number of aggregates arriving during the time interval between photographic frames (# area-1 time-1). Results show that essentially all material arrives in the form of aggregates with minor contributions of fecal pellets and solitary particles. Sinking speeds (m day-1), calculated by dividing the flux of aggregates (# m-2 day-1) by their abundance (# m-3), indicate that the larger (4-5mm) aggregates are flocculent and sink slowly (~1m day-1) while the smaller aggregates (1-2.5mm) are more compact and sink more quickly (~36m day-1). These large, slow-sinking aggregates may have been re-suspended from the sediment water interface at nearby basin margins.

Description: This research was supported by ONR contract numbers N00014-82-C-0019 and N00014-85-C-0001, NSF grant numbers OCE-83-09024, OCE-84-17106, and DPP-85-01152 and the WHO1 education office.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 1986

Description: A study of the remineralization of organic carbon was conducted in the organic-rich sediments of Buzzards Bay, MA. Major processes affecting the carbon chemistry in sediments are reflected by changes in the stable carbon isotope ratios of dissolved inorganic carbon (ΣCO2) in sediment pore water. Six cores were collected seasonally over a period of two years. The following species were measured in the pore waters: ΣCO2, δ13C-ΣCO2, PO4, ΣH2S, Alk, DOC, and Ca. Measurements of pore water collected seasonally show large gradients with depth, which are larger in summer than in winter. The δ13C (PDB) of ΣCO2 varies from 1.3 o/oo in the bottom water to approximately -10 o/oo at 30 cm. During all seasons, there was a trend towards more negative values with depth in the upper 8 cm due to the remineralization of organic matter. There was a trend toward more positive values below 8 cm, most likely due to biological irrigation of sediments with bottom water. Below 16-20 cm, a negative gradient was re-established which indicates a return to remineralization as the main process affecting pore water chemistry. Using the ΣCO2 depth profile, it was estimated that 67-85 gC/m2 are oxidized annually and 5 gC/m2-yr are buried. The amount of carbon oxidized represented remineralization occurring within the sediments. This estimate indicated that approximately 20% of the annual primary productivity reached the sediments. The calculated remineralization rates varied seasonally with the high of 7.5 x 10-9 mol/L-sec observed in August 84 and the low (0.6 x 10-9) in December 83. The calculated remineralization rates were dependent on the amount of irrigation in the sediments; if the irrigation parameter is known to ±20%, then the remineralization rates are known to this certainty also. The amount of irrigation in the sediments was estimated using the results of a seasonal study of 222Rn/22R6a disequilibria at the same study site (Martin, 1985). Estimates of the annual remineralization in the sediments using solid-phase data indicated that the solid-phase profiles were not at steady-state concentrations. The isotopic signature of ΣCO2 was used as an indicator of the processes affecting ΣCO2 in pore water. During every month, the oxidation of organic carbon to CO2 provided over half of the carbon added to the ΣCO2 pool. However, in every month, the δ13C of ΣCO2 added to the pore water in the surface sediments was greater than -15 o/oo, significantly greater than the δ13C of solid-phase organic carbon in the sediments (-20.6 o/oo). The δ13C of ΣCO2 added to the pore water in the sediments deeper than 7 cm was between -20 and -21 o/oo, similar to the organic carbon in the sediments. Possible explanations of the 13C-enrichment observed in the surface sediments were: a) significant dissolution of CaC0, (δ13C = + 1.7 o/oo), b) the addition of significant amounts of carbonate ion from bottom water to pore water, c) an isotopic difference between the carbon oxidized in the sediments and that remaining in the sediments. The effect of CaCO3 dissolution was quantified using measured dissolved Ca profiles and was not large enough to explain the observed isotopic enrichment. An additional source of 13C-enriched carbon was bottom water carbonate ion. In every month studied, there was a net flux of ΣCO2 from pore water to bottom water. The flux of pore water ΣCO2 to bottom water ranged from a minimum of 10 x 10-12 mol/cm2-sec in December 83 to a maximum of 50 x 10-12 mol/cm2-sec in August 84. However, because the pH of bottom water was about 8 while that of the pore water was less than or equal to 7, the relative proportion of the different species of inorganic carbon (H2CO*3, HCO-3, CO2-3 was very different in bottom water and pore water. Thus, while there was a net flux of ΣCO2 from pore water to bottom water, there was a flux of carbonate ion from bottom water to pore water. Because bottom water ΣCO2 was more 13C-enriched than pore water ΣCO2, the transfer of bottom water carbonate ion to pore water was a source of 13C-enriched carbon to the pore water. If the δ13C of CO2 added to the pore water from the oxidation of organic carbon was -20.6 o/oo, then the flux of Co2-3 from bottom water to pore water must have been 10-30% of the total flux of ΣCO2 from pore water to bottom water. This is consistent with the amount calculated from the observed gradient in carbonate ion. Laboratory experiments were conducted to determine whether the δ13C of CO2 produced from the oxidation of organic carbon (δ13C-OCox) was different from the δ13C of organic carbon in the sediments (δ13C-SOC). In the laboratory experiments, mud from the sampling site was incubated at a constant temperature. Three depths were studied (0-3, 10-15, and 20-25 cm). For the first study (IE1), sediment was stirred to homogenize it before packing into centrifuge tubes for incubation. For the second study (IE2), sediment was introduced directly into glass incubation tubes by subcoring. The second procedure greatly reduced disturbance to the sediment. Rates of CO2 production were calculated from the concentrations of ΣCO2 measured over up to 46 days. In both studies, the values of Rc in the deeper intervals were about 10% of the surface values. This was consistent with the field results, although the rates decreased more rapidly in the field. In all cases, the remineralization rates during the beginning of IE1 were much greater than those at the beginning of IE2. The sediment for IE1 was collected in February 84. The measured value of Rc in the surface sediment of the laboratory experiment (24 x 10-9 mol/L-sec) was much greater than the value of Rc observed in the field in another winter month, December 83 (.62 x 10-9). The sediment for IE2 was collected in August 85. The measured values of Rc in the surface sediment (6.6-12 x 10-9 mol/L-sec) were consistent with the field values from August 84 (7.5 x 10-9). The ΣCO2 results indicated that IE2 reproduced field conditions more accurately than IE1 did. The isotopic results from the experiments strongly suggested that δ13C-OCox in the surface sediments (-17.8 o/oo ± 1.9 o/oo) was greater than δ13C-SOC (-20.6 ± 0.2 o/oo). The magnitude of the observed fractionation was small enough that the observed values of δ13C-ΣCO2 in the pore waters could be explained by fractionated oxidation coupled with the diffusion of carbonate ion from bottom water to pore water. The observed fractionation was most likely due to the multiple sources of organic carbon to coastal sediments. A study of the natural levels of radiocarbon In these sediments indicated that the carbon preserved in the sediments is approximately 30% terrestrial while the rest is from phytoplankton.

Description: Financial support was provided by the Education Office of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology/Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Joint Program In Oceanography, by an Andrew W. Mellon Foundation grant to the Coastal Research Center, WHOI, and by the National Science foundation under grant NSF OCE83-15412.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution April 1975

Description: The influence of natural short-term fluctuations in environmental parameters on three components of transient benthic invertebrate community structure: abundance of individuals and species, biomass of individuals, and species diversity, were investigated in this study. The effect of low dissolved-oxygen on transient benthic community structure was studied with samples from Golfo Dulce, an intermittently anoxic basin off the west coast of Costa Rica and the Posa de Cariaco, an anoxoic trench off the north coast of Venezuela. Periodic fluctuations in oxygen concentration were accompanied by a community numerically dominated by a single polychaete species and low species diversity. As the frequency of fluctuations in oxygen concentration decreased, the number of species and individuals in the community increased with a corresponding increase in species diversity. In contrast to fluctuating oxygen conditions which eliminated many species from the community, fluctuating amounts of suspended matter in the bottom water allowed one species to proliferate while maintaining the total species list length. High rates of terrigenious sedimentation occurring naturally off the Spanish Sahara coast produced conditions which apparently hampered the feeding mechanisms of a spionid polychaete. Further offshore, where the diversity should be expected to increase, the spionids were able to flourish. The result was greater numerical abundance and biomass offshore and a lower transient diversity value. Results of simulation of catastophic burial by in situ burial of small isolated portions of Buzzards Bay sediment indicated that sedimentation rates recorded off Spanish Sahara would not eliminate species by burial. However, the small size of the organisms found off Spanish Sahara is probably a result of the constant expenditure of energy for escape. In regions of fluctuating environmental conditions, diversity values are low, principally because of dominance by a single species. Increasingly stable conditions, even though stressful, result in a more even distribution of individuals among the species present and a correspondingly high transient value.

Description: This work was funded by a Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Predoctoral Fellowship, N.S.F. Grant GA-3655l, and N.S.F. Grant GA-33502.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2010. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 40 (2010): 789-801, doi:10.1175/2009JPO4039.1.

Description: The issue of internal wave–mesoscale eddy interactions is revisited. Previous observational work identified the mesoscale eddy field as a possible source of internal wave energy. Characterization of the coupling as a viscous process provides a smaller horizontal transfer coefficient than previously obtained, with vh 50 m2 s−1 in contrast to νh 200–400 m2 s−1, and a vertical transfer coefficient bounded away from zero, with νυ + (f2/N2)Kh 2.5 ± 0.3 × 10−3 m2 s−1 in contrast to νυ + (f2/N2)Kh = 0 ± 2 × 10−2 m2 s−1. Current meter data from the Local Dynamics Experiment of the PolyMode field program indicate mesoscale eddy–internal wave coupling through horizontal interactions (i) is a significant sink of eddy energy and (ii) plays an O(1) role in the energy budget of the internal wave field.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2009. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 39 (2009): 2910-2925, doi:10.1175/2009JPO4139.1.

Description: The propagation of Rossby waves on a midlatitude β plane is investigated in the presence of density diffusion with the aid of linear hydrostatic theory. The search for wave solutions in a vertically bounded medium subject to horizontal (vertical) diffusion leads to an eigenvalue problem of second (fourth) order. Exact solutions of the problem are obtained for uniform background stratification (N), and approximate solutions are constructed for variable N using the Wentzel–Kramers–Brillouin method. Roots of the eigenvalue relations for free waves are found and discussed. The barotropic wave of adiabatic theory is also a solution of the eigenvalue problem as this is augmented with density diffusion in the horizontal or vertical direction. The barotropic wave is undamped as fluid parcels in the wave move only horizontally and are therefore insensitive to the vortex stretching induced by mixing. On the other hand, density diffusion modifies the properties of baroclinic waves of adiabatic theory. In the presence of horizontal diffusion the baroclinic modes are damped but their vertical structure remains unaltered. The ability of horizontal diffusion to damp baroclinic waves stems from its tendency to counteract the deformation of isopycnal surfaces caused by the passage of these waves. The damping rate increases (i) linearly with horizontal diffusivity and (ii) nonlinearly with horizontal wavenumber and mode number. In the presence of vertical diffusion the baroclinic waves suffer both damping and a change in vertical structure. In the long-wave limit the damping is critical (wave decay rate numerically equal to wave frequency) and increases as the square roots of vertical diffusivity and zonal wavenumber. Density diffusion in the horizontal or vertical direction reduces the amplitude of the phase speed of westward-propagating waves. Observational estimates of eddy diffusivities suggest that horizontal and vertical mixing strongly attenuates baroclinic waves in the ocean but that vertical mixing is too weak to notably modify the vertical structure of the gravest modes.

Description: This work was supported by the U.S. National Science Foundation.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2008. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology 25 (2008): 2091-2105, doi:10.1175/2008JTECHO587.1.

Description: An automated, easily deployed Ice-Tethered Profiler (ITP) instrument system, developed for deployment on perennial sea ice in the polar oceans to measure changes in upper ocean water properties in all seasons, is described, and representative data from prototype instruments are presented. The ITP instrument consists of three components: a surface subsystem that sits atop an ice floe; a weighted, plastic-jacketed wire-rope tether of arbitrary length (up to 800 m) suspended from the surface element; and an instrumented underwater unit that employs a traction drive to profile up and down the wire tether. ITPs profile the water column at a programmed sampling interval; after each profile, the underwater unit transfers two files holding oceanographic and engineering data to the surface unit using an inductive modem and from the surface instrument to a shore-based data server using an Iridium transmitter. The surface instrument also accumulates battery voltage readings, buoy temperature data, and locations from a GPS receiver at a specified interval (usually every hour) and transmits those data daily. Oceanographic and engineering data are processed, displayed, and made available in near–real time (available online at http://www.whoi.edu/itp). Six ITPs were deployed in the Arctic Ocean between 2004 and 2006 in the Beaufort gyre with various programmed sampling schedules of two to six one-way traverses per day between 10- and 750–760-m depth, providing more than 5300 profiles in all seasons (as of July 2007). The acquired CTD profile data document interesting spatial variations in the major water masses of the Canada Basin, show the double-diffusive thermohaline staircase that lies above the warm, salty Atlantic layer, measure seasonal surface mixed layer deepening, and document several mesoscale eddies. Augmenting the systems already deployed and to replace expiring systems, an international array of more than one dozen ITPs will be deployed as part of the Arctic Observing Network during the International Polar Year (IPY) period (2007–08) holding promise for more valuable real-time upper ocean observations for operational needs, to support studies of ocean processes, and to facilitate numerical model initialization and validation.

Description: Initial development of the ITP concept was supported by the Cecil H. and Ida M. Green Technology Innovation Program. Funding for construction and deployment of the prototype ITPs was provided by the National Science Foundation Oceanographic Technology and Interdisciplinary Coordination (OTIC) Program and Office of Polar Programs (OPP) under Grant OCE-0324233. Continued support has been provided by the OPP Arctic Sciences Section under Awards ARC-0519899 and ARC-0631951, and internal WHOI funding.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2008. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 38 (2008): 1091-1106, doi:10.1175/2007JPO3805.1.

Description: A model of deep ocean circulation driven by turbulent mixing is produced in a long, rectangular laboratory tank. The salinity difference is substituted for the thermal difference between tropical and polar regions. Freshwater gently flows in at the top of one end, dense water enters at the same rate at the top of the other end, and an overflow in the middle removes the same amount of surface water as is pumped in. Mixing is provided by a rod extending from top to bottom of the tank and traveling back and forth at constant speed with Reynolds numbers 〉500. A stratified upper layer (“thermocline”) deepens from the mixing and spreads across the entire tank. Simultaneously, a turbulent plume (“deep ocean overflow”) from a dense-water source descends through the layer and supplies bottom water, which spreads over the entire tank floor and rises into the upper layer to arrest the upper-layer deepening. Data are taken over a wide range of parameters and compared to scaling theory, energetic considerations, and simple models of turbulently mixed fluid. There is approximate agreement with a simple theory for Reynolds number 〉1000 in experiments with a tank depth less than the thermocline depth. A simple argument shows that mixing and plume potential energy flux rates are equal in magnitude, and it is suggested that the same is approximately true for the ocean.

Description: The research was supported by the Ocean Climate Change Institute of Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2008. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 38 (2008): 2556-2574, doi:10.1175/2008JPO3666.1.

Description: Vertical profiles of horizontal velocity obtained during the Mid-Ocean Dynamics Experiment (MODE) provided the first published estimates of the high vertical wavenumber structure of horizontal velocity. The data were interpreted as being representative of the background internal wave field, and thus, despite some evidence of excess downward energy propagation associated with coherent near-inertial features that was interpreted in terms of atmospheric generation, these data provided the basis for a revision to the Garrett and Munk spectral model. These data are reinterpreted through the lens of 30 years of research. Rather than representing the background wave field, atmospheric generation, or even near-inertial wave trapping, the coherent high wavenumber features are characteristic of internal wave capture in a mesoscale strain field. Wave capture represents a generalization of critical layer events for flows lacking the spatial symmetry inherent in a parallel shear flow or isolated vortex.

Description: Salary support for this analysis was provided by Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution bridge support funds.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution June 2000

Description: The thesis develops and demonstrates methods of classifying ocean processes using an underwater moving platform such as an Autonomous Underwater Vehicle (AUV). The "mingled spectrum principle" is established which concisely relates observations from a moving platform to the frequency-wavenumber spectrum of the ocean process. It clearly reveals the role of the AUV speed in mingling temporal and spatial information. For classifying different processes, an AUV is not only able to jointly utilize the time-space information, but also at a tunable proportion by adjusting its cruise speed. In this respect, AUVs are advantageous compared with traditional oceanographic platforms. Based on the mingled spectrum principle, a parametric tool for designing an AUVbased spectral classifier is developed. An AUV's controllable speed tunes the separability between the mingled spectra of different processes. This property is the key to optimizing the classifier's performance. As a case study, AUV-based classification is applied to distinguish ocean convection from internal waves. The mingled spectrum templates are derived from the MIT Ocean Convection Model and the Garrett-Munk internal wave spectrum model. To allow for mismatch between modeled templates and real measurements, the AUVbased classifier is designed to be robust to parameter uncertainties. By simulation tests on the classifier, it is demonstrated that at a higher AUV speed, convection's distinct spatial feature is highlighted to the advantage of classification. Experimental data are used to test the AUV-based classifier. An AUV-borne flow measurement system is designed and built, using an Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter (ADV). The system is calibrated in a high-precision tow tank. In February 1998, the AUV acquired field data of flow velocity in the Labrador Sea Convection Experiment. The Earth-referenced vertical flow velocity is extracted from the raw measurements. The classification test result detects convection's occurrence, a finding supported by more traditional oceanographic analyses and observations. The thesis work provides an important foundation for future work in autonomous detection and sampling of oceanographic processes.

Description: This thesis research has been funded by the Office of Naval Research (ONR) under Grants NOOOl4-95-1-1316, NOO0l4-97-1-0470, and by the MIT Sea Grant College Program under Grant NA46RG0434.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2007. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 37 (2007): 1066–1076, doi:10.1175/JPO3032.1.

Description: A 50-day time series of high-resolution temperature in the deepest layers of the Canada Basin in the Arctic Ocean indicates that the deep Canada Basin is a dynamically active environment, not the quiet, stable basin often assumed. Vertical motions at the near-inertial (tidal) frequency have amplitudes of 10– 20 m. These vertical displacements are surprisingly large considering the downward near-inertial internal wave energy flux typically observed in the Canada Basin. In addition to motion in the internal-wave frequency band, the measurements indicate distinctive subinertial temperature fluctuations, possibly due to intrusions of new water masses.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2010. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 40 (2010): 2743–2756, doi:10.1175/2010JPO4339.1.

Description: Analysis of modern and historical observations demonstrates that the temperature of the intermediate-depth (150–900 m) Atlantic water (AW) of the Arctic Ocean has increased in recent decades. The AW warming has been uneven in time; a local 1°C maximum was observed in the mid-1990s, followed by an intervening minimum and an additional warming that culminated in 2007 with temperatures higher than in the 1990s by 0.24°C. Relative to climatology from all data prior to 1999, the most extreme 2007 temperature anomalies of up to 1°C and higher were observed in the Eurasian and Makarov Basins. The AW warming was associated with a substantial (up to 75–90 m) shoaling of the upper AW boundary in the central Arctic Ocean and weakening of the Eurasian Basin upper-ocean stratification. Taken together, these observations suggest that the changes in the Eurasian Basin facilitated greater upward transfer of AW heat to the ocean surface layer. Available limited observations and results from a 1D ocean column model support this surmised upward spread of AW heat through the Eurasian Basin halocline. Experiments with a 3D coupled ice–ocean model in turn suggest a loss of 28–35 cm of ice thickness after 50 yr in response to the 0.5 W m−2 increase in AW ocean heat flux suggested by the 1D model. This amount of thinning is comparable to the 29 cm of ice thickness loss due to local atmospheric thermodynamic forcing estimated from observations of fast-ice thickness decline. The implication is that AW warming helped precondition the polar ice cap for the extreme ice loss observed in recent years.

Description: This study was supported by JAMSTEC (IP and VI), NOAA (IP, VI, and ID), NSF (IP,VA,VI, ID, JT, andMS),NASA(IP andVI), BMBF (ID), and UK NERC (SB) grants.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2010. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 40 (2010): 2605–2623, doi:10.1175/2010JPO4132.1.

Description: Steady scale-invariant solutions of a kinetic equation describing the statistics of oceanic internal gravity waves based on wave turbulence theory are investigated. It is shown in the nonrotating scale-invariant limit that the collision integral in the kinetic equation diverges for almost all spectral power-law exponents. These divergences come from resonant interactions with the smallest horizontal wavenumbers and/or the largest horizontal wavenumbers with extreme scale separations. A small domain is identified in which the scale-invariant collision integral converges and numerically find a convergent power-law solution. This numerical solution is close to the Garrett–Munk spectrum. Power-law exponents that potentially permit a balance between the infrared and ultraviolet divergences are investigated. The balanced exponents are generalizations of an exact solution of the scale-invariant kinetic equation, the Pelinovsky–Raevsky spectrum. A small but finite Coriolis parameter representing the effects of rotation is introduced into the kinetic equation to determine solutions over the divergent part of the domain using rigorous asymptotic arguments. This gives rise to the induced diffusion regime. The derivation of the kinetic equation is based on an assumption of weak nonlinearity. Dominance of the nonlocal interactions puts the self-consistency of the kinetic equation at risk. However, these weakly nonlinear stationary states are consistent with much of the observational evidence.

Description: This research is supported by NSF CMG Grants 0417724, 0417732 and 0417466. YL is also supported by NSF DMS Grant 0807871 and ONR Award N00014-09-1-0515.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2012. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 42 (2012): 1012–1021, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-11-0184.1.

Description: Pacific Water flows across the shallow Chukchi Sea before reaching the Arctic Ocean, where it is a source of heat, freshwater, nutrients, and carbon. A substantial portion of Pacific Water is routed through Barrow Canyon, located in the northeast corner of the Chukchi. Barrow Canyon is a region of complex geometry and forcing where a variety of water masses have been observed to coexist. These factors contribute to a dynamic physical environment, with the potential for significant water mass transformation. The measurements of turbulent kinetic energy dissipation presented here indicate diapycnal mixing is important in the upper canyon. Elevated dissipation rates were observed near the pycnocline, effectively mixing winter and summer water masses, as well as within the bottom boundary layer. The slopes of shear/stratification layers, combined with analysis of rotary spectra, suggest that near-inertial wave activity may be important in modulating dissipation near the bottom. Because the canyon is known to be a hotspot of productivity with an active benthic community, mixing may be an important factor in maintenance of the biological environment.

Description: ELS was supported as a WHOI Postdoctoral Scholar through the WHOI Ocean and Climate Change Institute.

Description: 2012-12-01

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2012. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 42 (2012): 1524–1547, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-11-0117.1.

Description: Evidence is presented for the transfer of energy from low-frequency inertial–diurnal internal waves to high-frequency waves in the band between 6 cpd and the buoyancy frequency. This transfer links the most energetic waves in the spectrum, those receiving energy directly from the winds, barotropic tides, and parametric subharmonic instability, with those most directly involved in the breaking process. Transfer estimates are based on month-long records of ocean velocity and temperature obtained continuously over 80–800 m from the research platform (R/P) Floating Instrument Platform (FLIP) in the Hawaii Ocean Mixing Experiment (HOME) Nearfield (2002) and Farfield (2001) experiments, in Hawaiian waters. Triple correlations between low-frequency vertical shears and high-frequency Reynolds stresses, uiw∂Ui/∂z, are used to estimate energy transfers. These are supported by bispectral analysis, which show significant energy transfers to pairs of waves with nearly identical frequency. Wavenumber bispectra indicate that the vertical scales of the high-frequency waves are unequal, with one wave of comparable scale to that of the low-frequency parent and the other of much longer scale. The scales of the high-frequency waves contrast with the classical pictures of induced diffusion and elastic scattering interactions and violates the scale-separation assumption of eikonal models of interaction. The possibility that the observed waves are Doppler shifted from intrinsic frequencies near f or N is explored. Peak transfer rates in the Nearfield, an energetic tidal conversion site, are on the order of 2 × 10−7 W kg−1 and are of similar magnitude to estimates of turbulent dissipation that were made near the ridge during HOME. Transfer rates in the Farfield are found to be about half the Nearfield values.

Description: This work was supported by the National Science Foundation and the Office of Naval Research.

Description: 2013-03-01

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution January 18, 1988

Description: We have contrived a regional model Φ(K, ω, η, φ, λ) for the distribution of low frequency variability energy in horizontal wavenumber, frequency, vertical mode and geography. We assume horizontal isotropy, Φ(K, ω, η, φ, λ) = 2πKψ(k, l, ω, η, φ, λ), with K designating the amplitude of total horizontal wavenumber. The parameters of Φ(K, ω, η, φ, λ) can be derived from observations: (i) satellite altimetry measurements yield the surface eddy kinetic energy wavenumber and frequency spectra and the geographic distribution of surface eddy kinetic energy magnitude, (ii) XBT measurements yield the temperature wavenumber spectra, (iii) current meter and thermistor measurements yield the frequency spectra of kinetic energy and temperature, (iv) tomographic measurements yield the frequency spectra of range— and depth—averaged temperature, and (v) the combination of satellite altimetry and current meter measurements yields the vertical partitioning of kinetic energy among dynamical modes. We assume the form of the geography—independent part of our model Φ(K, ω, η) ∝Kpωq. The observed kinetic energy and temperature wavenumber spectra suggest p = 3/2 at K 〈 K0 and p = —2 at K 〉 K0 for the barotropic mode, and p = —1/2 at K 〈 K0 and p = —3 at K 〉 K0 for the baroclinic mods, where K0 is the transitional wavenumber of the wavenumber spectra. The observed frequency spectra of temperature and kinetic energy suggest that q = —1/2 for ω 〈 ω0 and q = —2 for ω 〉 ω0, where ω0 is the transitional frequency of the frequency spectra. The combination of satellite altimetry and current meter measurements suggests the vertical structure of the low frequency variability is governed by the first few modes. The geography—dependent part of our model is the energy magnitude. Although we have shown analytically that the tomographic measurements behave as a low—pass filter, it is impossible to identify this filtering effect in the real data due to the strong geographic variability of the energy magnitude and the vertical gradient of the mean temperature. The model wavenumber spectrum is appropriate only where the statistical properties are relatively homogeneous in space.

Description: My first year in the Joint Program was supported by the National Science Foundation under grant OCE 92-16628, then were supported by the National Science Foundation under grant OCE 95-29545.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2013. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 43 (2013): 17–28, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-11-0108.1.

Description: Observational evidence is presented for transfer of energy from the internal tide to near-inertial motions near 29°N in the Pacific Ocean. The transfer is accomplished via parametric subharmonic instability (PSI), which involves interaction between a primary wave (the internal tide in this case) and two smaller-scale waves of nearly half the frequency. The internal tide at this location is a complex superposition of a low-mode waves propagating north from Hawaii and higher-mode waves generated at local seamounts, making application of PSI theory challenging. Nevertheless, a statistically significant phase locking is documented between the internal tide and upward- and downward-propagating near-inertial waves. The phase between those three waves is consistent with that expected from PSI theory. Calculated energy transfer rates from the tide to near-inertial motions are modest, consistent with local dissipation rate estimates. The conclusion is that while PSI does befall the tide near a critical latitude of 29°N, it does not do so catastrophically.

Description: This work was sponsored by NSF OCE 04-25283.

Description: 2013-07-01

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2013. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology 30 (2013): 1767–1788, doi:10.1175/JTECH-D-12-00140.1.

Description: Seismic images of oceanic thermohaline finestructure record vertical displacements from internal waves and turbulence over large sections at unprecedented horizontal resolution. Where reflections follow isopycnals, their displacements can be used to estimate levels of turbulence dissipation, by applying the Klymak–Moum slope spectrum method. However, many issues must be considered when using seismic images for estimating turbulence dissipation, especially sources of random and harmonic noise. This study examines the utility of seismic images for estimating turbulence dissipation in the ocean, using synthetic modeling and data from two field surveys, from the South China Sea and the eastern Pacific Ocean, including the first comparison of turbulence estimates from seismic images and from vertical shear. Realistic synthetic models that mimic the spectral characteristics of internal waves and turbulence show that reflector slope spectra accurately reproduce isopycnal slope spectra out to horizontal wavenumbers of 0.04 cpm, corresponding to horizontal wavelengths of 25 m. Using seismic reflector slope spectra requires recognition and suppression of shot-generated harmonic noise and restriction of data to frequency bands with signal-to-noise ratios greater than about 4. Calculation of slope spectra directly from Fourier transforms of the seismic data is necessary to determine the suitability of a particular dataset to turbulence estimation from reflector slope spectra. Turbulence dissipation estimated from seismic reflector displacements compares well to those from 10-m shear determined by coincident expendable current profiler (XCP) data, demonstrating that seismic images can produce reliable estimates of turbulence dissipation in the ocean, provided that random noise is minimal and harmonic noise is removed.

Description: This work was funded by NSF Grants 0452744, 0405654, and 0648620, and ONR/DEPSCoR Grant DODONR40027.

Description: 2014-02-01

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2015. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 45 (2015): 2006–2024, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-14-0234.1.

Description: The effects of wind-driven whitecapping on the evolution of the ocean surface boundary layer are examined using an idealized one-dimensional Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes numerical model. Whitecapping is parameterized as a flux of turbulent kinetic energy through the sea surface and through an adjustment of the turbulent length scale. Simulations begin with a two-layer configuration and use a wind that ramps to a steady stress. This study finds that the boundary layer begins to thicken sooner in simulations with whitecapping than without because whitecapping introduces energy to the base of the boundary layer sooner than shear production does. Even in the presence of whitecapping, shear production becomes important for several hours, but then inertial oscillations cause shear production and whitecapping to alternate as the dominant energy sources for mixing. Details of these results are sensitive to initial and forcing conditions, particularly to the turbulent length scale imposed by breaking waves and the transfer velocity of energy from waves to turbulence. After 1–2 days of steady wind, the boundary layer in whitecapping simulations has thickened more than the boundary layer in simulations without whitecapping by about 10%–50%, depending on the forcing and initial conditions.

Description: We thank Skidmore College for financial and infrastructure support, and Skidmore and the National Science Foundation for funding travel to meetings where early versions of this work were presented. We also thank the National Science Foundation, Oregon State University, Jonathan Nash, and Joe Jurisa for funding and hosting a workshop on River Plume Mixing in October, 2013, where ideas and context for this paper were developed.

Description: 2016-02-01

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2018. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in he balance of salinity variance in a partially stratified estuary: Implications for exchange flow, mixing, and stratification. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 48(12), (2018) 2887-2899., doi: 10.1175/JPO-D-18-0032.1.

Description: Salinity variance dissipation is related to exchange flow through the salinity variance balance equation, and meanwhile its magnitude is also proportional to the turbulence production and stratification inside the estuary. As river flow increases, estuarine volume-integrated salinity variance dissipation increases owing to more variance input from the open boundaries driven by exchange flow and river flow. This corresponds to the increased efficient conversion of turbulence production to salinity variance dissipation due to the intensified stratification with higher river flow. Through the spring–neap cycle, the temporal variation of salinity variance dissipation is more dependent on stratification than turbulence production, so it reaches its maximum during the transition from neap to spring tides. During most of the transition time from spring to neap tides, the advective input of salinity variance from the open boundaries is larger than dissipation, resulting in the net increase of variance, which is mainly expressed as vertical variance, that is, stratification. The intensified stratification in turn increases salinity variance dissipation. During neap tides, a large amount of enhanced salinity variance dissipation is induced by the internal shear stress near the halocline. During most of the transition time from neap to spring tides, dissipation becomes larger than the advective input, so salinity variance decreases and the stratification is destroyed.

Description: TW was supported by the National Key R&D Program of China (Grant 2017YFA0604104), National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant 41706002), Natural Science Foundation of Jiangsu Province (Grant BK20170864), and MEL Visiting Fellowship (MELRS1617). WRG was supported by NSF Grant OCE 1736539. Part of this work is finished during TW’s visit in MEL and WHOI. We would like to acknowledge John Warner for providing the codes of the Hudson estuary model, and Parker MacCready, the editor, and two reviewers for their insightful suggestions on improving the manuscript.

Description: 2019-06-06

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution April, 1977

Description: A total of four moorings from POLYMODE Array I and II were analyzed in an investigation of internal wavefield-mean flow interactions. In particular, evidence for wave-mean flow interaction was sought by searching for time correlations between the wavefield vertically-acting Reynolds stress (estimated using the temperature and velocity records), and the mean shear. No significant stress-shear correlations were found at the less energetic moorings, indicating that the magnitude of the eddy viscosity was under 200 cm2/sec, with the sign of the energy transfer uncertain. This is considerably below the 0(4500 cm2/sec) predicted by Müller (1976). An extensive error analysis indicates that the large wave stress predicted by the theory should have been clearly observable under the conditions of measurement. Theoretical computations indicate that the wavefield "basic state" may not be independent of the mean flow as assumed by Müller, but can actually be modified by large-scale vertical shear and still remain in equilibrium. In that case, the wavefield does not exchange momentum with a large-scale vertical shear flow, and, excepting critical layer effects, a small vertical eddy viscosity is to be expected. Using the Garrett-Munk (1975) model internal wave spectrum, estimates were made of the maximum momentum flux (stress) expected to be lost to critical layer absorption. Stress was found to increase almost linearly with the velocity difference across the shear zone, corresponding to a vertical eddy viscosity of -100 cm2 s -1. Stresses indicative of this effect were not observed in the data. The only significantly non-zero stress correlations were found at the more energetic moorings. Associated with the 600 m mean velocity and the shear at the thermocline were a positively correlated stress at 600 m, and a negatively correlated stress at 1000 m. These stress correlations were most clearly observable in the frequency range corresponding to 1 to 8 hour wave periods. The internal wavefield kinetic and potential energy were modulated by the mean flow at both levels, increasing by a factor of two with a factor of ten in the mean flow. The observed stress correlations and energy level changes were found to be inconsistent with ideas of a strictly local eddy viscosity, in which the spectrum of waves is only slightly modified by the shear. When Doppler effects in the temperature equation used to estimate vertical velocity were considered, the observations of stress and energy changes were found to be consistent with generation of short (0.4 to 3 km) internal waves at the level of maximum shear, about 800 m. The intensity of the generated waves increases with the shear, resulting in an effective vertical eddy viscosity (based on the main thermocline shear) of about +100 cm2 s-1 The stresses were not observable at the 1500 m level, indicating that the waves were absorbed within 500 m of vertical travel. The tendency for internal wave currents to be horizontally anisotropic in the presence of a mean current was investigated. Using the Garrett- Munk (1975) model internal wave spectrum, it was found that critical layer absorption cannot induce anisotropies as large as observed. A mechanical noise problem was found to be the cause of large anisotropies measured with Geodyne 850 current meters. It could not be decided, however, whether or not the A.M.F. Vector Averaging Current Meter is able to satisfactorily remove the noise with its averaging scheme.

Description: The research reported here was provided by Office of Naval Research Contract Numer N00014-76-C-0197 NR 083-400.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution June, 1980

Description: This thesis consists of three papers applying the techniques of time series analysis to geophysical data. Surface wave dispersion along the Walvis Ridge, South Atlantic Ocean, is obtained by bandpass filtering the recorded seismogram in the frequency domain. The group velocity is anomalously low in the period range of 15-50 s, and formal inversion of the data indicates both crustal thickening to 12.5 km and low shear velocity (4.25-4.35 km/s) to depths of 40-50 km. The electromagnetic induction fields at a deep ocean site northeast of Hawaii were used to determine the electrical conductivity of the earth to 400 km depth. Singular value decomposition of the data matrix indicates three degrees of freedom, suggesting source field complications and a two dimensional conductive structure. Inversion of one of the principal terms in the response function shows an abrupt rise in electrical conductivity to 0.05 mho/m near 160 km with no resolvable decrease below this. A model study suggests that moving source fields influence the induction appreciably in the other principal response tunction. A set of piston cores from the northeast Atlantic Ocean are used to construct paleomagnetic time series covering the interval 25-127 kybp. Stratigraphic control is provided by counts of planktonic toraminifera, and empirical orthogonal function analysis shows a significant decrease in sedimentation rate at the interglaciai/glacial transition. The sediments are magnetically stable and reliable relative paleointensity measurements could be obtained. Spectral analysis of the directions reveals a predominant 10 ky periodicity and no dominant looping direction.

Description: I was supported for the early parts of this work by a NSF Graduate Fellowship. The Walvis Ridge study was supported by the WHOI Education Office and the Defense Advanced Research Projects Agency. The induction study was funded by the NSF under grants OCE74-12730 and OCE77-8633, and by the WHOI Ocean Industries Program. The paleomagnetic study was supported by NSF contracts OCE77-82255 and ÖCE79-19258.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2005

Description: The fate of trace metals in contaminated coastal sediments is poorly understood, yet critical for effective coastal management. The aim of this thesis is to investigate and quantify the mechanisms leading to the release of silver, lead and copper across the sediment-water interface. Two contrasting sites were investigated, a heavily contaminated site in Boston Harbor and a less impacted, offshore site in Massachusetts Bay. High-resolution porewater and solid phase samples were collected in each season to determine the diagenetic cycles and chemistry controlling the fate of these metals. The trace metals are scavenged by iron oxyhydroxides and released to the porewaters when these oxides are reduced. At the strongly reducing site in Boston Harbor, there is seasonal transfer of trace metals from oxide phases in winter, to sulfides phase in summer. At the Massachusetts Bay site, due to the lack of sulfide, the metals are focused into the surface oxide layer, giving a solid phase enrichment. There is a diffusive flux of copper to the water column throughout the year, while silver is released only in winter. Lead is strongly scavenged and is rarely released to the overlying waters. Analysis of reduced sulfur compounds in the porewaters has shown that there is also a significant flux of these strong ligands to the overlying waters. Polysulfide species enhance the solubility of copper within the porewaters. Sediment resuspension fluxes were quantified using an erosion chamber. Sediment resuspension leads to enhanced release of dissolved metals and is especially important in redistributing contaminants as the first particles to be eroded are enriched in trace metals. The total release of dissolved metals from the sediments by diffusion and sediment resuspension is estimated to be 60% and 10% of the riverine flux for copper and lead respectively. With continued pollution control reducing the discharge of metals from other sources, the benthic release of metals will become increasingly important terms in the metal budget of Boston Harbor.

Description: Tills work is a result of research sponsored by the NOAA National Sea Grant College Program Office, Department of Commerce, under Grant. No. NA16RG2273, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Sea Grant Project Nos. 1-01-22227310 and 1-01-22227338. Additional funding was provided by the University of Western Australia Hackett Scholarship, the United States Geological Survey under Cooperative Agreement Number OOHQAGOOOI and the National Science Foundation under Grant OCE-0220892.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution November 1981

Description: Radiolarians which settle through the oceanic water column were recovered from three stations (western Tropical Atlantic-Station E, central Tropical Pacific-Pi and Panama Basin-PB) using PARLUX sediment traps in moored arrays at several depths. The taxonomic diversities of the radiolarian assemblages in the sediment traps were very high. A total of 420 taxa, including 23 newly identified taxa, were found at the three stations; of these, 208 taxa were found at station E. The polycystine radiolarians generally reach the sea floor with little change in abundance or species composition, although slight skeletal dissolution occurs throughout their descent. The phaeodarian radiolarians, on the other hand, are largely dissolved within the water column; only a few species reach the sea-floor and these dissolve rapidly at the sediment-water interface. Most radiolarian skeletons sink as individuals through deep water columns without being incorporated into large biogenic aggregates. Because significant numbers of nassellarian and phaeodarian species are deep-water dwelling forms the diversity index of radiolarians increases with increasing depth in the mesopelagic zone. The vertical flux of the total radiolarians arriving at the trap depths (in x 103 individuals/m2/day) ranged from 16-24 (E), 0.6-17 (Pl), and 29-53 (PB). Of these on the average 25% and 69% of the total radiolarian flux is transported by Spumellaria and Nassellaria, respectively, while 5% is carried by Phaeodaria. The measured Si02 content of the skeletons averaged 91, 98 and 71% of measured weight for Spumellaria, Nassellaria and Phaeodaria, respectively. The supply of radiolarian silica (mg Si02/m2/day) to each trap depth ranged from 2.5-4.0 (E), 0.9-3.2 (Pl), and 5.7-10.4 (PB). The Radiolaria appear to be a significantly large portion of the Si02 flux in 〉63 pm size fraction and thus play an important role in the silica cycle. When the radiolarian fluxes at the three Stations are compared with Holocene radiolarian accumulation rates in the same areas it became apparent that several percent or less of the fluxes are preserved in the sediments in all cases and the rest is dissolved on the sea-floor. Estimated excess Si which is derived from Si02 dissolution on the sea-floor is fairly small relative to advective Si in the western North Atlantic and thus it appears to be insignificant to show any deviation in a simple mixing curve of deep water masses. Weight, length, width, projected area and volume of 58 radiolarian taxa were measured. The density contrast of radiolarians, relative to seawater, generally falls between 0.01 and 0.5 g/cm3. The sinking speed of 55 radiolarian taxa, measured in the laboratory at 3°C, ranged from 13 to 416 m/day. Despite the wide variety of morphology between the species, sinking speeds were best correlated with weight/shell among all the possible combinations of the examined variables. The estimated residence times of these taxa in the 5 km pelagic water column ranged from 2 weeks to 14 months. Large phaeodarians reached the water-sediment interface relatively quickly and ultimately dissolved on the sea floor. Small-sized taxa dissolved en route during sinking. The standing stock of 26 examined abundant taxa is on the order of 1 to 100 shells/m3. Total radiolarian standing stock ranges from about 450 shells/m3 at Stations Pl and E to 1200 shells/m3 at Station PB. The rate of production of total Radiolaria is calculated to be 77 to 225 shells/m3 /day. The turnover time for these species ranges from several days to one month depending on the species and the assumption of the depth interval used for the estimation.

Description: This thesis work has been supported by the National Science Foundation, Submarine Geology and Geophysics Program, Grant OCE80-l9386 and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Education Office.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2003

Description: Prevailing wisdom holds that the vertical distribution of molybdenum (Mo) in the open ocean is conservative, despite Mo's important biological role and association with Mn oxides and anoxic sediments. Mo is used in both nitrogenase, the enzyme responsible for Nz fixation, and nitrate reductase, which catalyzes assimilatory and dissimilatory nitrate reduction. Laboratory culture work on two Nz fixing marine cyanobacteria, Trichodesmium and Crocosphaera, and a marine facultative denitrifier, Marinobacter hydrocarbanoclasticus, showed that Mo cell quotas in these organisms were positively correlated with Mo-containing enzyme activity. Mo concentrations in Crocosphaera dropped almost to blank levels when not fixing Nz suggesting daily synthesis and destruction of the entire nitrogenase enzyme and release of Mo. Trichodesmium cultues, however, retained a pool of cellular Mo even when not fixing Nz. Colonies of Trichodesmium collected in the field have Mo:C tenfold higher than seen in culture, these Mo:C ratios were reflected in SPM samples from the same region. Fe:C ratios for Trichodesmium were between 12-160 μmol:mol in field and cultured samples. The Fe:C ratio of Crocosphaera was established to be 15.8±11:3 under Nz fixing conditions. Mo cellular concentrations in cultured organisms were too small to significantly influence dissolved Mo distributions, but may slightly affect Suspended Particulate Matter (SPM) distributions. Mean SPM Mo:C ratios were slightly elevated in regions of Nz fixation and denitrification. A high precision (±0.5%) isotope dilution ICP-MS method for measuring Mo was developed to re-evaluate the marine distribution of Mo in the dissolved and particulate phase. Mn oxides were not found to significantly influence either the dissolved or SPM Mo distribution. Dissolved Mo profiles from the Sargasso and Arabian Sea were conservative. However, dissolved Mo profiles from the Eastern Tropical Pacific showed both depletion and enrichment of dissolved Mo possibly associated with interaction of Mo with coastal sediments. Dissolved Mo profiles in several California Borderland Basins showed 1-2 nM Mo depletions below sill depth. A more focused study of water column response to sediment fluxes using the high precision Mo analyses is necessary to determine whether these phenomena are related.

Description: This work was funded by a grant from the National Science Foundation (#OCE-0096453) and the WHOI Academic Programs Ocean Ventures Fund. I have also been supported through WHOI by a NSF coastal traineeship #DGE-9454129, by the US GS Cooperative Agreement #USGS-OOHQAG001 and by WHOI Academic Programs.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August 1984

Description: Intermittent, shoreward propagating packets of high frequency first mode internal waves are common on the continental shelf when the water column is stratified and may induce large fluctuations in near bottom velocity. Simple theoretical considerations here lead to an approximate method for estimating those quantities of most interest for the bottom boundary layer interaction problem. Examination of data from the pilot Coastal Ocean Dynamics Experiment (CODE I) shows that near bottom velocity fluctuations in the high frequency internal wave band were dominated by shoreward propagating, intermittent mode 1 internal events. Predictions of CODE I internal wave characteristics using the above approximate method are shown to be good. A boundary layer model is developed, which allows for the nonlinear interaction of surface waves, internal waves, and a steady current over a rough bottom. Modeling results suggest that internal waves will significantly enhance the stress felt by the steady current, and can increase the variability and decrease the reliability of boundary layer measurements by the "log profile" technique, when the waves are present. Theoretical dissipation of internal wave energy in the bottom boundary layer is found to be significantly enhanced in the presence of surface waves and currents, and may be important to the overall internal wave energy balance on the shelf.

Description: My doctoral work was supported for the first three years by an NSF Graduate Fellowship and has been supported since under NSF grant OCE-8014938.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution November 1992

Description: This thesis examines the degradation pathways of chlorophyll in the Black Sea water column and sediments. Measurements are made of total chlorophyll in sediment traps from two locations and depths in the water column, and at two locations in surface sediments. Individual chlorophyll degradation products are also identified. This data is used to construct a mass balance of chlorophyll production and sedimentation showing the major pathways for chlorophyll loss and the ultimate sedimentary sinks. The distribution of chlorophyll degradation products is also analyzed down core and related to environmental changes in the Black Sea Several new sinks for chlorophyll degradation products are identified. Steryl esters of pyropheophorbide-a are identified in sediment trap and sediment samples. It is thought that these compounds are formed during grazing. In sediment traps it is found that the distribution of the sterols esterified to pyropheophorbide-a change with season and that the sterols esterified are related to the distribution of sterols synthesized by the phytoplankton living in the photic zone at the time of production. Analysis of pyropheophorbide-a steryl esters in sediments shows the distribution of sterols to be quantitatively and qualitatively more similar to the distribution of free sterols in sediment traps than in sediments. The esterification of the sterols to pyropheophorbide-a apparently prevents the preferential removal of 4-desmethylsterols relative to 4-methylsterols during degradation of the sterol esters. Chlorophyll degradation products which are incorporated into high molecular weight material and material which is only accessible with strong acid are also identified. The chlorophyll degradation products incorporated into these structures represent only a few percent of the total structure. In the high molecular weight material, only phorbins derived from chlorophyll-a are identifies, where as in the acid extractable material, porphyrins are also identified. In surface sediments, the acid extractable chlorophyll degradations products and the solvent extractable macromolecular chlorophyll degradation products each comprise approximately 30% of total sedimentary chlorophyll degradation products. The acid extractable chlorophyll degradation products are identified in sediment trap samples, and evidence is presented for the occurrence of the solvent extractable macromolecular chlorophyll degradation products in sediment trap samples. Using data from sediment traps, sediments, and the literature, a mass balance of chlorophyll flux, degradation, and accumulation in the Black Sea is presented. In the photic zone, chlorophyll degradation products are either destroyed by photo-oxidation and grazing, or they are transported into the anoxic water column in large, rapidly sinking particles. Once the chlorophyll degradation products have reached the anoxic water column, they survive to be deposited in the underlying sediments. As a comparison, 25 times more total organic carbon reaches the anoxic water column than does total phorbin, but 75% of total organic carbon which reaches the anoxic water column is degraded, either in the anoxic water column or in the very surface sediments. Though a larger percentage of total organic carbon passes out of the photic zone, the phorbin macrocycle appears to be more stable under anoxic conditions than is total organic carbon. The chlorophyll which can be detected below the chemocline of the Black Sea in the form of chlorophyll degradation products will survive to be deposited in surface sediments. Once in sediments, chlorophyll degradation products are found in four different reservoirs: phorbin steryl esters, free phorbins, solvent extractable macromolecular chlorophyll degradation products, and acid extractable chlorophyll degradation products. Evidence for the occurrence of porphyrins in surface Black Sea sediments is also presented. The distribution of chlorophyll degradation products in Unit I Black Sea sediments varies greatly with sediment depth. The concentration of total phorbin generally increases with increasing burial depth, but the concentrations of the individual chlorophyll degradation products vary in a manner which is both dissimilar to total phorbin and to each other. No parent/daughter relationships for the chlorophyll degradation products are indicated by the data. The distribution of sterols esterified to pyropheophorbide-a changes with sediment depth with the largest qualitative changes occurring in strata where the total phorbin concentration shows the largest quantitative changes. It is suggested that the variations seen in the esterified sterols are related to changes in the phytoplankton community over time. From the presented data, it is also suggested that total phorbin concentration, normalized to total organic carbon, in Black Sea Unit I sediments is related to paleoprimary production. Several conclusions are drawn from the work presented in this thesis. There is approximately 3 times more chlorophyll-derived phorbin in Black Sea sediments than can be accounted for when considering only individual pheopigments, and therefore the sedimentary degradation of chlorophyll is much more complex than previously thought. In the anoxic sediments of the Black Sea, the total phorbin distribution can be accounted for with organically extractable high molecular weight degradation products, pyropheophorbide steryl esters, pheopigments, and acid extractable chlorophyll degradation products. The sterol distribution in the pyropheophorbide steryl esters may preserve the sterol distribution in surface waters as synthesized by the phytoplankton, and pyropheophorbide steryl esters are preserved in sediments over the long term.

Description: The work in this thesis was funded by grants from the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution's Ocean Ventures Fund and the National Science Foundation contract numbers OCE88-14398, OCE90-17626, and OCE92-01178.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August 1980

Description: Dissolved free amino acids (DFAA) were measured in interstitial water samples squeezed from sediments collected in a variety of depositional environments. These sediments were further characterized by measurements of total organic carbon, total nitrogen, dissolved organic carbon, total hydrolyzable amino acids, and pore water-dissolved remineralization products. Surface sediments from the oxygen minimum zone of the Peru Upwelling Region, which consisted of a filamentous bacterial mat, were sampled at three locations. DFAA concentrations within the mat ranged from 5 to 220 μM, with the highest concentrations found in the upper 4 cm at two stations on the landward and seaward edges of the zone, and lower concentrations at a station in the middle of the oxygen minimum zone. Within cores, lower concentrations were found at depths below the mat; and below 30 cm depth concentrations were between 0.7 and 3 μM. Two short cores of offshore sediments had concentrations between 14 and 40 μM (1400 m depth) and between 3 and 8 μM (5200 m). Glutamic acid was the predominant amino acid in nearly all surface sediments samples, making up 30 to 70 mole %. In sediments below 15 cm depth, β-aminoglutaric acid was often more abundant than glutamic acid and other amino acids were virtually absent. Glutamic acid, both from several analyses performed during this work and from data available in the literature is a major DFAA of bacterial pools, and bacteria are a likely source for the high concentrations seen in interstitial water samples. DFAA may be extracted from living cells by the squeezing process, or may be excreted by the bacteria under natural conditions. β-Aminoglutaric acid is s non-protein amino acid isomer of glutamic acid which has not been previously reported as a natural product. However, this work has shown it to be a constituent of the free amino acid pools of some bacteria at about 5 mole %. Its much larger relative abundance in sediments could stem from organisms which biosynthesize greater amounts than those analyzed, or from relatively slow biodegradation. Buzzards Bay, Massachusetts surface sediments (17 m water depth) also contained high DFAA concentrations, near; 50 μM, which decreased gradually with depth to about 5 μM at 30 cm. Glutamic acid and β-aminoglutaric acid were the major components, with β-aminoglutaric acid becoming relatively more abundant with depth in core. Repeated sampling of this station was carried out, and both the concentration and composition of DFAA in replicate samples was very similar. Sediments from the Pettaquamscutt River Estuary, Rhode Island (an anoxic basin), had low DFAA concentrations ranging from 2 to 6 μM. Glutamic and β-aminoglutaric acids made up 30 to 50 % of the total. Three cores of Gulf of Maine basin sediments had DFAA concentrations and compositions which were similar to each other and to Buzzards Bay sediments, except that glycine was a major constituent of some of the samples. Its distribution was irregular over the less than 30 cm depth intervals sampled. Glycine is the major DFAA in the pools of many benthic invertebrates. Its presence in these cores is consistent with independent evidence that Gulf of Maine basin sediments are extensively bioturbated. Two cores of carbonate-rich sediments from the continental rise to the east of the Gulf of Maine and from the Bermuda Rise had surface sediment DFAA concentrations of 33 and 0.9 μM, respectively. Despite the large difference in concentration, compositions were very similar, with glycine and glutamic acid the major constituents. The very low concentrations in the Bermuda Rise sediments may be related to very low metabolizable organic carbon concentrations. Two nonprotein amino acids, γ-aminobutyric acid and β-alanine, were major constituents of the total hydrolyzable amino acids in the Bermuda Rise sediments. Biological processes, specifically microbial, appear to be responsible for the major features of DFAA concentration and composition in the sediments studied. The concentrations of DFAA measured could be of significance to the nutrition of benthic organisms via transepidermal uptake or to the formation of humic substances in sediments, if these levels are found outside cells . However, as a sink for DFAA in sediments, the latter two processes are slow relative to microbial uptake.

Description: Financial support was provided by the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Education Office, the Paul M. Fye Fellowship, ONR Contract N00014-79-C-0071, and NSF Grant No. OCE 79-08665. Travel funds to Peru were provided by NSF Grant No. OCE 77-26180.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2008. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 38 (2008): 880–895, doi:10.1175/2007JPO3750.1.

Description: The oceanic response to overflows is explored using a two-layer isopycnal model. Overflows enter the open ocean as dense gravity currents that flow along and down the continental slope. While descending the slope, overflows typically double their volume transport by entraining upper oceanic water. The upper oceanic layer must balance this loss of mass, and the resulting convergent flow produces significant vortex stretching. Overflows thus represent an intense and localized mass and vorticity forcing for the upper ocean. In this study, simulations show that the upper ocean responds to the overflow-induced forcing by establishing topographic β plumes that are aligned more or less along isobaths and that have a transport that is typically a few times larger than that of the overflows. For the topographic β plume driven by the Mediterranean overflow, the occurrence of eddies near Cape St. Vincent, Portugal, allows the topographic β plume to flow across isobaths. The modeled topographic β-plume circulation forms two transatlantic zonal jets that are analogous to the Azores Current and the Azores Countercurrent. In other cases (e.g., the Denmark Strait overflow), the same kind of circulation remains trapped along the western boundary and hence would not be readily detected.

Description: SK’s support during the time of his Ph.D. research in the MIT/WHOI Joint Program was provided by the National Science Foundation through Grant OCE04-24741. JP and JY have also received support from the Climate Process Team on Gravity Current Entrainment, NSF Grant OCE-0611530.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2008. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 38 (2008): 909–917, doi:10.1175/2007JPO3535.1.

Description: The classical two-box model of Stommel is extended in two directions: replacing the buoyancy constraint with an energy constraint and including the wind-driven gyre. Stommel postulated a buoyancy constraint for the thermohaline circulation, and his basic idea has evolved into the dominating theory of thermohaline circulation; however, recently, it is argued that the thermohaline circulation is maintained by mechanical energy from wind stress and tides. The major difference between these two types of models is the bifurcation structure: the Stommel-like model has two thermal modes (one stable and another one unstable) and one stable haline mode, whereas the energy-constraint model has one stable thermal mode and two saline modes (one stable and another one unstable). Adding the wind-driven gyre changes the threshold value of thermohaline bifurcation greatly; thus, the inclusion of the wind-driven gyre is a vital step in completely modeling the physical processes related to thermohaline circulation.

Description: YPG was supported by the National Science Foundation of China (NSFC, 40676022), the National Basic Research Program of China (2006CB403605), and the Guangdong Natural Science Foundation (5003672). RXH was supported by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration through CICOR Cooperative Agreement NA17RJ1223 to the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2008. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 38 (2008): 380-399, doi:10.1175/2007JPO3728.1.

Description: Barotropic to baroclinic conversion and attendant phenomena were recently examined at the Kaena Ridge as an aspect of the Hawaii Ocean Mixing Experiment. Two distinct mixing processes appear to be at work in the waters above the 1100-m-deep ridge crest. At middepths, above 400 m, mixing events resemble their open-ocean counterparts. There is no apparent modulation of mixing rates with the fortnightly cycle, and they are well modeled by standard open-ocean parameterizations. Nearer to the topography, there is quasi-deterministic breaking associated with each baroclinic crest passage. Large-amplitude, small-scale internal waves are triggered by tidal forcing, consistent with lee-wave formation at the ridge break. These waves have vertical wavelengths on the order of 400 m. During spring tides, the waves are nonlinear and exhibit convective instabilities on their leading edge. Dissipation rates exceed those predicted by the open-ocean parameterizations by up to a factor of 100, with the disparity increasing as the seafloor is approached. These observations are based on a set of repeated CTD and microconductivity profiles obtained from the research platform (R/P) Floating Instrument Platform (FLIP), which was trimoored over the southern edge of the ridge crest. Ocean velocity and shear were resolved to a 4-m vertical scale by a suspended Doppler sonar. Dissipation was estimated both by measuring overturn displacements and from microconductivity wavenumber spectra. The methods agreed in water deeper than 200 m, where sensor resolution limitations do not limit the turbulence estimates. At intense mixing sites new phenomena await discovery, and existing parameterizations cannot be expected to apply.

Description: This work was funded by the National Science Foundation as a component of the Hawaii Ocean Mixing Program. Added support for FLIP was provided by the Office of Naval Research.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2008. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 38 (2008): 133–145, doi:10.1175/2007JPO3782.1.

Description: Five ice-tethered profilers (ITPs), deployed between 2004 and 2006, have provided detailed potential temperature θ and salinity S profiles from 21 anticyclonic eddy encounters in the central Canada Basin of the Arctic Ocean. The 12–35-m-thick eddies have center depths between 42 and 69 m in the Arctic halocline, and are shallower and less dense than the majority of eddies observed previously in the central Canada Basin. They are characterized by anomalously cold θ and low stratification, and have horizontal scales on the order of, or less than, the Rossby radius of deformation (about 10 km). Maximum azimuthal speeds estimated from dynamic heights (assuming cyclogeostrophic balance) are between 9 and 26 cm s−1, an order of magnitude larger than typical ambient flow speeds in the central basin. Eddy θ–S and potential vorticity properties, as well as horizontal and vertical scales, are consistent with their formation by instability of a surface front at about 80°N that appears in historical CTD and expendable CTD (XCTD) measurements. This would suggest eddy lifetimes longer than 6 months. While the baroclinic instability of boundary currents cannot be ruled out as a generation mechanism, it is less likely since deeper eddies that would originate from the deeper-reaching boundary flows are not observed in the survey region.

Description: The engineering design work for the ITP was initiated by the Cecil H. and Ida M. Green Technology Innovation Program (an internal program at the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution). Prototype development and construction were funded jointly by the U.S. National Science Foundation (NSF) Oceanographic Technology and Interdisciplinary Coordination Program and Office of Polar Programs (OPP) under Award OCE-0324233. Continued support has been provided by the OPP Arctic Sciences Section under Award ARC-0519899 and internal WHOI funding.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2008. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 38 (2008): 686-701, doi:10.1175/2007JPO3826.1.

Description: The disintegration of a first-mode internal tide into shorter solitary-like waves is considered. Since observations frequently show both tides and waves with amplitudes beyond the restrictions of weakly nonlinear theory, the evolution is studied using a fully nonlinear, weakly nonhydrostatic two-layer theory that includes rotation. In the hydrostatic limit, the governing equations have periodic, nonlinear inertia–gravity solutions that are explored as models of the nonlinear internal tide. These long waves are shown to be robust to weak nonhydrostatic effects. Numerical solutions show that the disintegration of an initial sinusoidal linear internal tide is closely linked to the presence of these nonlinear waves. The initial tide steepens due to nonlinearity and sheds energy into short solitary waves. The disintegration is halted as the longwave part of the solution settles onto a state close to one of the nonlinear hydrostatic solutions, with the short solitary waves superimposed. The degree of disintegration is a function of initial amplitude of the tide and the properties of the underlying nonlinear hydrostatic solutions, which, depending on stratification and tidal frequency, exist only for a finite range of amplitudes (or energies). There is a lower threshold below which no short solitary waves are produced. However, for initial amplitudes above another threshold, given approximately by the energy of the limiting nonlinear hydrostatic inertia–gravity wave, most of the initial tidal energy goes into solitary waves. Recent observations in the South China Sea are briefly discussed.

Description: KRH was supported by a Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Mellon Independent Study Award and ONR Grant N000140610798.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2008. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 38 (2008): 1644-1668, doi:10.1175/2007JPO3829.1.

Description: The mean structure and time-dependent behavior of the shelfbreak jet along the southern Beaufort Sea, and its ability to transport properties into the basin interior via eddies are explored using high-resolution mooring data and an idealized numerical model. The analysis focuses on springtime, when weakly stratified winter-transformed Pacific water is being advected out of the Chukchi Sea. When winds are weak, the observed jet is bottom trapped with a low potential vorticity core and has maximum mean velocities of O(25 cm s−1) and an eastward transport of 0.42 Sv (1 Sv ≡ 106 m3 s−1). Despite the absence of winds, the current is highly time dependent, with relative vorticity and twisting vorticity often important components of the Ertel potential vorticity. An idealized primitive equation model forced by dense, weakly stratified waters flowing off a shelf produces a mean middepth boundary current similar in structure to that observed at the mooring site. The model boundary current is also highly variable, and produces numerous strong, small anticyclonic eddies that transport the shelf water into the basin interior. Analysis of the energy conversion terms in both the mooring data and the numerical model indicates that the eddies are formed via baroclinic instability of the boundary current. The structure of the eddies in the basin interior compares well with observations from drifting ice platforms. The results suggest that eddies shed from the shelfbreak jet contribute significantly to the offshore flux of heat, salt, and other properties, and are likely important for the ventilation of the halocline in the western Arctic Ocean. Interaction with an anticyclonic basin-scale circulation, meant to represent the Beaufort gyre, enhances the offshore transport of shelf water and results in a loss of mass transport from the shelfbreak jet.

Description: This study was supported by the National Science Foundation Office of Polar Programs under Grants 0421904 and 035268 (MS), and by the Office of Naval Research Grant N00014-02-1-0317 (RP and PF). Analysis by AJP was supported by the Office of Naval Research under Grant N00014-97-1-0135 and by the National Science Foundation under Grant OPP-9815303.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2007. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 37 (2007): 1859-1877, doi:10.1175/jpo3088.1.

Description: A series of dye releases in the Hudson River estuary elucidated diapycnal mixing rates and temporal variability over tidal and fortnightly time scales. Dye was injected in the bottom boundary layer for each of four releases during different phases of the tide and of the spring–neap cycle. Diapycnal mixing occurs primarily through entrainment that is driven by shear production in the bottom boundary layer. On flood the dye extended vertically through the bottom mixed layer, and its concentration decreased abruptly near the base of the pycnocline, usually at a height corresponding to a velocity maximum. Boundary layer growth is consistent with a one-dimensional, stress-driven entrainment model. A model was developed for the vertical structure of the vertical eddy viscosity in the flood tide boundary layer that is proportional to u2*/N∞, where u* and N∞ are the bottom friction velocity and buoyancy frequency above the boundary layer. The model also predicts that the buoyancy flux averaged over the bottom boundary layer is equal to 0.06N∞u2* or, based on the structure of the boundary layer equal to 0.1NBLu2*, where NBL is the buoyancy frequency across the flood-tide boundary layer. Estimates of shear production and buoyancy flux indicate that the flux Richardson number in the flood-tide boundary layer is 0.1–0.18, consistent with the model indicating that the flux Richardson number is between 0.1 and 0.14. During ebb, the boundary layer was more stratified, and its vertical extent was not as sharply delineated as in the flood. During neap tide the rate of mixing during ebb was significantly weaker than on flood, owing to reduced bottom stress and stabilization by stratification. As tidal amplitude increased ebb mixing increased and more closely resembled the boundary layer entrainment process observed during the flood. Tidal straining modestly increased the entrainment rate during the flood, and it restratified the boundary layer and inhibited mixing during the ebb.

Description: The work was supported by the National Science Foundation Grant OCE00-95972 (W. Geyer, J. Lerczak), OCE00-99310 (R. Houghton), and OCE00-95913 (R. Chant, E. Hunter).

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2012. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Climate 25 (2012): 1096–1115, doi:10.1175/2011JCLI4228.1.

Description: Ventilation, including subduction and obduction, for the global oceans was examined using Simple Ocean Data Assimilation (SODA) outputs. The global subduction rate averaged over the period from 1959 to 2006 is estimated at 505.8 Sv (1 Sv ≡ 106 m3 s−1), while the corresponding global obduction rate is estimated at 482.1 Sv. The annual subduction/obduction rates vary greatly on the interannual and decadal time scales. The global subduction rate is estimated to have increased 7.6% over the past 50 years, while the obduction rate is estimated to have increased 9.8%. Such trends may be insignificant because errors associated with the data generated by ocean data assimilation could be as large as 10%. However, a major physical mechanism that induced these trends is primarily linked to changes in the Southern Ocean. While the Southern Ocean plays a key role in global subduction and obduction rates and their variability, both the Southern Ocean and equatorial regions are critically important sites of water mass formation/erosion.

Description: This work was supported by the Key State Basic Research Program of China under Grant 2012CB417401, the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grants 40906007, 40890152), and the Open Foundation of Physical Oceanography Laboratory, OUC, under Grant 200902.

Description: 2012-08-15

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2012. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 42 (2012): 659–668, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-11-0125.1.

Description: Ice-tethered profiler (ITP) measurements from the Arctic Ocean’s Canada Basin indicate an ocean surface layer beneath sea ice with significant horizontal density structure on scales of hundreds of kilometers to the order 1 km submesoscale. The observed horizontal gradients in density are dynamically important in that they are associated with restratification of the surface ocean when dense water flows under light water. Such restratification is prevalent in wintertime and competes with convective mixing upon buoyancy forcing (e.g., ice growth and brine rejection) and shear-driven mixing when the ice moves relative to the ocean. Frontal structure and estimates of the balanced Richardson number point to the likelihood of dynamical restratification by isopycnal tilt and submesoscale baroclinic instability. Based on the evidence here, it is likely that submesoscale processes play an important role in setting surface-layer properties and lateral density variability in the Arctic Ocean.

Description: Funding was provided by the National Science Foundation Office of Polar Programs Arctic Sciences Section under Awards ARC-0519899, ARC-0856479, and ARC-0806306. Support was also provided by the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Arctic Research Initiative.

Description: 2012-10-01

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 1992

Description: Oceanic profiles of temperature, salinity, horizontal velocity, rate of dissipation of turbulent kinetic energy (ε) and rate of dissipation of thermal variance (χ) are used to examine the parameterization of turbulent mixing in the ocean due to internal waves. Turbulent mixing is quantified through eddy diffusivity parameterizations of the mass (Kρ; Osborn, 1980) and heat fluxes (Kτ; Osborn and Cox, 1972) in turbulent production/dissipation balances. Turbulence in the ocean is generally held to result from the occurrence of shear instability in regions where the Richardson number is locally supercritical (i.e. Ri ≤ 1/4), permitting the growth of small-scale waves which break and result in turbulent mixing. The occurrence of shear instability results from the local intensification of the shear in the internal wave field. The energy dissipated in such events is provided by the energy flux to higher wavenumber due to nonlinear wave/wave interactions on scales of 10's to 100's of meters. In turn, the strength of the wave/wave interactions depends generally on the energy content of the internal wave field, which can vary considerably over even larger scales due to the presence of topography or background flows. The magnitude of turbulent mixing is linked to internal wave dynamics by equating the turbulent dissipation with the energy flux through the vertical wavenumber spectrum under the priviso that the model spectrum which forms the basis for the analysis is statistically stationary with respect to the nonlinear interactions. Dynamical models (McComas and Muller, 1981; Henyey et al., 1986) indicate that the Garrett and Munk (GM; Munk, 1981) spectrum is stationary. Observations from the far field of a seamount in a region of negligible large-scale flow were examined to address the issue of the buoyancy scaling of ε. These data exhibited large variations in background stratification with depth, but the internal wave characteristics were not substantially differentiable from the GM prescription. The magnitude of ε and its functional dependence upon internal wave energy levels (E) and buoyancy frequency (N) was best described by the dynamical model ofHenyey et al. (1986) (ε ~ E2N2). The Richardson number scaling model of Kunze et al. (1990) produced consistent estimates. A second dynamical model, McComas and Muller (1981), predicted an appropriate (E,N) scaling, but overestimated the observed dissipation rates by a factor of five. Two kinematical dissipation parameterizations (Garmett and Holloway (1984) and Munk (1981)) predicted buoyancy scalings of N3/2 which were inconsistent with the observed scaling. Data from an upper-ocean front, a warm core ring and a region of steep topography were analyzed in order to examine the parameter dependence of E in internal wave fields which exhibited potentially nonstationary characteristics. Evidence was provided which implied the internal wave field in an upper ocean front was interacting with and modified by the background flow. Inhomogeneity and anisotropy of the internal wave field were noted in that data set. The model of Gregg (1989), which in turn was based upon the model of Henyey et al., effectively collapsed the observed diffusivity estimates from the front. The warm core ring profiles were noted to be anisotropic, dominated by near-inertial frequencies and to have a peaked vertical wavenumber shear spectrum. The data from a region of steep topography were noted to have a peaked vertical wavenumber spectrum and were characterized by higher than GM frequency motions. For the latter two data sets, application of a frequency based correction to the Henyey et al. model (Henyey, 1991) reduced more than an order of magnitude scatter in the parameterized estimates of E to less than a factor of four. Of the possible non-equilibrium conditions in the internal wave field, the (E,N) scaled dissipation rates were most sensitive to deviations in wave field frequency content. On the basis of a number of theoretical Richardson number probability distributions (Ri = N2/S2, where S2 is the sum of the squared vertical derivatives of horizontal velocity), the nominal dissipation scaling of the Kunze et al. model was determined to be E2N3. This scaling is altered to the observed ε ~ E2N2 scaling by a statistical dependence between N2 and S2 which reduces the occurrence of supercritical Ri values. This statistical dependence is hypothesized to be an effect of the turbulent momentum and buoyancy fluxes on the internal wave shear and strain profiles caused by shear instability. The statistical dependence between N2 and S2 exhibited a buoyancy scaling which was interpreted as resulting from the decreasing ratio between the time scale of the shear instability mechanism [T- 2π/N] and the adiabatic time scale [T - 2π/(Nf)1/2] of the internal wave field (f is the Coriolis parameter). This phenomenology is interpreted in light of saturated spectral theories which suggest that the magnitude and shape of the vertical wavenumber spectrum is controlled by instability mechanisms at large wavenumber ( ≥ .1 cpm). We argue that saturated spectral theories are valid only in the limit where a separation exists between the two time scales, i.e. for large N, low internal wave frequency content, and small f. These results have immediate implications for oceanic mixing driven by internal wave motions. First, background diffusivities are small: at GM energy levels, Kρ - .03x10-4 m2/s (Kρ = .25ε/N2). Secondly, since Kρ is independent of N at constant E, some process or collection of processes must be responsible for heightened E values in the abyss if internal waves cause the 0(1-10x10-4 m2/s) diffusivities generally inferred from deep ocean hydrographic data. We view internal wave reflection and/or internal wave generation associated with topographic features to be likely candidates.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August 1989

Description: Given well known environmental conditions, matched field processing has been shown to be a promising signal processing technique for the localization of acoustic sources. However, when environmental data are incomplete or inaccurate, a 'mismatch' occurs between the measured field and model field which can lead to a severe degradation of the localization estimator. We investigate the possible mismatch effects of surface and internal waves on matched field processing in a shallow water waveguide. We utilize a modified ray theory, based on the work of Tindle, to calculate the acoustic pressure field. This allows us to simply incorporate range dependent environmental conditions as well as to generalize our work to deeper waveguides. In general, the conventional (Bartlett) matched field beamformer does not provide sufficient resolution to unambiguously locate a source, even in a perfectly matched environment. The maximum likelihood method (MLM) matched field beamformer has much better resolution but is extremely susceptible to mismatch. The mismatch due to surface roughness can result in a large reduction of the estimator peak. Part, but not all, of the peak can be regained by 1)using a model which includes incomplete reflection at the surface based on actual sea surface statistics and 2) short time averaging of the measured signal, with times on the order of the period of the surface waves. Mismatch due to internal waves can also result in a large degradation of the estimator. Averaging over the same time period as surface waves provides little improvement and leads one to surmise that internal waves may be a limiting constraint on matched field processing. Finally, we combine the surface and internal wave fields with a slowly moving source. This example highlights the necessity for the development of a beamformer which has a broader mainlobe while maintaining adequate sidelobe suppression, and we address this issue by looking at two such beamformers.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2012. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 42 (2012): 1981–2000, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-12-028.1.

Description: Packets of nonlinear internal waves (NLIWs) in a small area of the Mid-Atlantic Bight were 10 times more energetic during a local neap tide than during the preceding spring tide. This counterintuitive result cannot be explained if the waves are generated near the shelf break by the local barotropic tide since changes in shelfbreak stratification explain only a small fraction of the variability in barotropic to baroclinic conversion. Instead, this study suggests that the occurrence of strong NLIWs was caused by the shoaling of distantly generated internal tides with amplitudes that are uncorrelated with the local spring-neap cycle. An extensive set of moored observations show that NLIWs are correlated with the internal tide but uncorrelated with barotropic tide. Using harmonic analysis of a 40-day record, this study associates steady-phase motions at the shelf break with waves generated by the local barotropic tide and variable-phase motions with the shoaling of distantly generated internal tides. The dual sources of internal tide energy (local or remote) mean that shelf internal tides and NLIWs will be predictable with a local model only if the locally generated internal tides are significantly stronger than shoaling internal tides. Since the depth-integrated internal tide energy in the open ocean can greatly exceed that on the shelf, it is likely that shoaling internal tides control the energetics on shelves that are directly exposed to the open ocean.

Description: This research was supported by ONR Grants N00014-05-1-0271, N00014-08-1-0991, N00014-04- 1-0146, and N00014-11-1-0194.

Description: 2013-05-01

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August 1996

Description: A field experiment was undertaken during July and August of 1995 aimed at understanding the interaction of acoustic signals with the internal wave field off the coast of New Jersey. As part of SWARM (Shallow Water Acoustics in a Random Medium), physical data were collected in 75 m of water near 39°15.34'N, 72°56.59'W with three thermistor strings, a bottom-mounted ADCP, and yo-yo CTDs. These data spanned a two-week period of the month-long study. With the exception of a time following a storm event, during which the generation mechanism near the shelf break was effectively switched off, large-amplitude (up to 20 meters), rank-ordered groups of internal solitons were observed traveling through the region approximately every 12.4 hours. These groups of solitons progressed across the shelf with phase speeds of 61.8 ± 14.9 cm/s with a heading of 280 ± 31° T. Two-layer finite-depth theory was tested on this data and shown to consistently overpredict the phase speed of the internal solitons within each group. Predictions of horizontal scale, particle velocities, and displacements were in qualitative agreement with two-layer finite-depth dynamics.

Description: Support for this work was provided by a National Science Foundation grant OCE-9313670.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution June 1997

Description: As part of the Shallow Water Acoustics in a Random Medium (SWARM) experiment [1], a sixteen element WHOI vertical line array (WVLA) was moored in 70 meters of water off the New Jersey coast. This array was sampled at 1395 Hz or higher for the seven days it was deployed. Tomography sources with carrier frequencies of 224 and 400 Hz were moored about 32 km shoreward, such that the acoustic path was anti-parallel to the primary propagation direction for shelf generated internal wave solitons. Two models for the propagation of normal modes through a 2-D waveguide with solitary internal wave (soliton) scattering included are developed to help in understanding the very complicated mode arrivals seen at the WVLA. The simplest model uses the Preisig and Duda [2] sharp interface approximation for solitons, allowing for rapid analysis of the effects of various numbers of solitons on mode arrival statistics. The second model, using SWARM thermistor string data to simulate the actual SWARM waveguides, is more realistic, but much slower. The analysis of the actual WVLA data yields spread, bias, wander, and intensity fluctuation signals that are modulated at tidal frequencies. The signals are consistent with predicted relationships to the internal wave distributions in the waveguides.

Description: The funds for my education were provided by the Office of Naval Research through an ONR Fellowship (MIT award 002734-001); the funds for SWARM were also provided by the Office of Naval Research through ONR Grant N00014-95-0051.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2012. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 42 (2012): 2143–2152, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-12-027.1.

Description: Direct measurements of turbulence levels in the Drake Passage region of the Southern Ocean show a marked enhancement over the Phoenix Ridge. At this site, the Antarctic Circumpolar Current (ACC) is constricted in its flow between the southern tip of South America and the northern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula. Observed turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rates are enhanced in the regions corresponding to the ACC frontal zones where strong flow reaches the bottom. In these areas, turbulent dissipation levels reach 10−8 W kg−1 at abyssal and middepths. The mixing enhancement in the frontal regions is sufficient to elevate the diapycnal turbulent diffusivity acting in the deep water above the axis of the ridge to 1 × 10−4 m2 s−1. This level is an order of magnitude larger than the mixing levels observed upstream in the ACC above smoother bathymetry. Outside of the frontal regions, dissipation rates are O(10−10) W kg−1, comparable to the background levels of turbulence found throughout most mid- and low-latitude regions of the global ocean.

Description: This work was supported by the U.S. National Science Foundation and by the Natural Environment Research Council of the United Kingdom.

Description: 2013-06-01

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 1997

Description: The goals of this thesis were: (1) to establish methods for the determination of nitrogen and carbon isotope ratios in marine particulate and sedimentary chlorophyll derivatives; (2) to establish chlorophyll δ15N and δl3C as proxies for the nitrogen and carbon isotopic composition of marine phytoplankton; and (3) to use chlorophyll nitrogen isotopic ratios to understand the origin of Late Quaternary Eastern Mediterranean sapropels. Techniques are presented for the determination of chlorin nitrogen and carbon isotopic ratios in marine particles and sediments with a precision greater than 0.15 per mil for both isotopes. The procedure can be performed in about 4 hours for particulate and 8 hours for sediment samples, and relies on multiple chromatographic purifications. About 20 g of a moderately organic-rich sediment are required. A technique is also presented for the determination of chlorin nitrogen and carbon isotopic ratios by isotope-ratio monitoring gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (irmGC-MS) by synthesizing bis-(tert.-butyldimethylsiloxy)Si(IV) chlorin derivatives. However, yields for the 4-step synthesis were only about 5-6% and there was a net isotopic depletion of 1.2 (± 0.3) per mil in the derivative, relative to the starting material. These techniques are then used to show that the nitrogen isotopic difference between chlorophyll and whole cells in six species of marine phytoplankton is 5.16 ± 2.40 per mil. For carbon, the isotopic difference between chlorophyll and whole cells in five species of marine phytoplankton is -0.02 ± 2.12 per mil. A model of the distribution of 15N in phytoplankton is constructed and it is demonstrated that the interspecies variability observed for the nitrogen isotopic difference between chlorophyll and whole cells can be attributed to differences in the partitioning of cellular nitrogen between non-protein biochemicals. In the field, where mixed assemblages of phytoplankton prevail, the isotopic difference beween chlorophyll and whole cells is expected to tend toward the average value of 5.16 per mil. Finally, the average nitrogen isotopic composition of chlorins from six Late Quaternary Eastern Mediterranean sapropels (-5.01 + 0.38 per mil) was found to be very similar to the δ15N of chlorophyll from the modem deep chlorophyll maximum (-6.38 ± 1.80 per mil) in the Eastern Mediterranean. In addition, sapropel photoautotrophic material, calculated from the chlorin δ15N, had the same isotopic composition (0.15 per mil) as both bulk sapropel sediments (-0.08 ± 0.53 per mil) and deep water nitrate (-0.05 per mil). These data suggest (a) that bottom waters were anoxic, (b) that organic matter burial efficiency was enhanced, and (c) that oligotrophic conditions similar to today persisted, in the Eastern Mediterranean during sapropel deposition. These results contradict earlier interpretations of Late Quaternary bulk sedimentary δ15N in the Eastern Mediterranean. The latter concluded that the pattern of high δ15N values in intercalated marl oozes and low values in sapropels was the result of decreased nutrient utilization, and hence, increased primary production, during sapropel events. The low δ15N of deep water nitrate in the Eastern Mediterranean suggests a significant source of new nitrogen from biological N2-fixation. It is suggested that attempts to reconstruct the nitrogen isotopic composition of marine organic matter in the past by measuring the δ15N of whole sediments may be subject to misinterpretation due to the alteration of isotopic ratios during diagenesis. The partial oxidation of marine organic matter can result in significant isotopic enrichment of the preserved residual. The magnitude of this enrichment appears to be large when bottom waters are well-oxygenated, and small when bottom waters are anoxic. Environments where large temporal reqox changes have occurred are expected to be the most problematic for the interpretation of bulk sedimentary δ15N. In these environments, the diagenetic signal can be at least as large as the primary isotopic signal being sought. The Eastern Mediterranean Sea during the Late Quaternary appears to be one such environment.

Description: Funding for this work came from an Office of Naval Research Graduate Fellowship, the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Ocean Ventures Fund, and a Petroleum Research Grant(# 30124-AC2).

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2013. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 43 (2013): 698–705, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-12-0119.1.

Description: Owing to the larger thermal expansion coefficient at higher temperatures, more buoyancy is put into the ocean by heating than is removed by cooling at low temperatures. The authors show that, even with globally balanced thermal and haline surface forcing at the ocean surface, there is a negative density flux and hence a positive buoyancy flux. As shown by McDougall and Garrett, this must be compensated by interior densification on mixing due to the nonlinearity of the equation of state (cabbeling). Three issues that arise from this are addressed: the estimation of the annual input of density forcing, the effects of the seasonal cycle, and the total cabbeling potential of the ocean upon complete mixing. The annual expansion through surface density forcing in a steady-state ocean driven by balanced evaporation–precipitation–runoff (E–P–R) and net radiative budget at the surface Qnet is estimated as 74 000 m3 s−1 (0.07 Sv; 1 Sv ≡ 106 m3 s−1), which would be equivalent to a sea level rise of 6.3 mm yr−1. This is equivalent to approximately 3 times the estimated rate of sea level rise or 450% of the average Mississippi River discharge. When seasonal variations are included, this density forcing increases by 35% relative to the time-mean case to 101 000 m3 s−1 (0.1 Sv). Likely bounds are established on these numbers by using different Qnet and E–P–R datasets and the estimates are found to be robust to a factor of ~2. These values compare well with the cabbeling-induced contraction inferred from independent thermal dissipation rate estimates. The potential sea level decrease upon complete vertical mixing of the ocean is estimated as 230 mm. When horizontal mixing is included, the sea level drop is estimated as 300 mm.

Description: The authors would like to acknowledge support from the National Aeronautics and Space Administration, Grant NNX12AF59G and the National Science Foundation, Grant OCE-0647949.

Description: 2013-10-01

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2015

Description: The scattering of low-mode internal tides by ocean-floor topography is extensively studied through analytical models and field observations at the Line Islands Ridge (LIR). An existing Green function method is utilized to examine the generation of internal tides by idealized topographic shapes as well as realistic transects of the LIR. The method is also applied to examine the scattering of a mode-1 internal tide at these topographies to determine the relative high mode energy flux due to generated and scattered internal tides at the realistic transects. A method of determining the modal content of an internal wave field is advanced to account for arbitrary stratification and rotation. It is then adjusted to allow for image loss as is common to oceanographic studies. Its performance is compared to the existing regression method widely used by oceanographers to determine the modal content of internal tides. The results from this comparison are used to inform the analysis of the field observations. This thesis concludes by examining the modal content of the LIR as determined from measurements taken during the 150-day EXperiment on Internal Tide Scattering (EXITS) NSF field study. Motivated by satellite altimetry data and three-dimensional numerical model studies, the EXITS cruise sought to observe the internal tide scattering process in the ocean for the first time. The data from three moorings equipped with moored profilers, spanning total depths of 3000-5000 m is analyzed to determine the modal content of the southward propagating internal tide before and after it encounters the ridge for evidence of topographic scattering.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2015. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 45 (2015): 966–987, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-14-0110.1.

Description: A key remaining challenge in oceanography is the understanding and parameterization of small-scale mixing. Evidence suggests that topographic features play a significant role in enhancing mixing in the Southern Ocean. This study uses 914 high-resolution hydrographic profiles from novel EM-APEX profiling floats to investigate turbulent mixing north of the Kerguelen Plateau, a major topographic feature in the Southern Ocean. A shear–strain finescale parameterization is applied to estimate diapycnal diffusivity in the upper 1600 m of the ocean. The indirect estimates of mixing match direct microstructure profiler observations made simultaneously. It is found that mixing intensities have strong spatial and temporal variability, ranging from O(10−6) to O(10−3) m2 s−1. This study identifies topographic roughness, current speed, and wind speed as the main factors controlling mixing intensity. Additionally, the authors find strong regional variability in mixing dynamics and enhanced mixing in the Antarctic Circumpolar Current frontal region. This enhanced mixing is attributed to dissipating internal waves generated by the interaction of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current and the topography of the Kerguelen Plateau. Extending the mixing observations from the Kerguelen region to the entire Southern Ocean, this study infers a large water mass transformation rate of 17 Sverdrups (Sv; 1 Sv ≡ 106 m3 s−1) across the boundary of Antarctic Intermediate Water and Upper Circumpolar Deep Water in the Antarctic Circumpolar Current. This work suggests that the contribution of mixing to the Southern Ocean overturning circulation budget is particularly significant in fronts.

Description: AM was supported by the joint CSIRO–University of Tasmania Quantitative Marine Science (QMS) program and the 2009 CSIRO Wealth from Ocean Flagship Collaborative Fund. BMS was supported by the Australian Climate Change Science Program, jointly funded by the Department of the Environment and CSIRO. KLPs salary support was provided by Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution bridge support funds.

Description: 2015-10-01

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2018. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 48 (2018): 739-748, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-17-0089.1.

Description: McDougall and Ferrari have estimated the global deep upward diapycnal flow in the boundary layer overlying continental slopes that must balance both downward diapycnal flow in the deep interior and the formation of bottom water around Antarctica. The decrease of perimeter of isopycnal surfaces with depth and the observed decay with height above bottom of turbulent dissipation in the deep ocean play a key role in their estimate. They argue that because the perimeter of seamounts increases with depth, the net effect of mixing around seamounts is to produce net downward diapycnal flow. While this is true along much of a seamount, it is shown here that diapycnal flow of the densest water around the seamount is upward, with buoyancy being transferred from water just above. The same is true for midocean ridges, whose perimeter is constant with depth. It is argued that mixing around seamounts and especially midocean ridges contributes positively to the global deep overturning circulation, reducing the amount of turbulence demanded over the continental slopes to balance the buoyancy budget for the bottom and deep water.

Description: This work was supported by National Science Foundation Grant OCE- 1232962.

Description: 2018-09-29

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2018. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 48 (2018): 607-623, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-17-0189.1.

Description: The roles of straining and dissipation in controlling stratification are derived analytically using a vertical salinity variance method. Stratification is produced by converting horizontal variance to vertical variance via straining, that is, differential advection of horizontal salinity gradients, and stratification is destroyed by the dissipation of vertical variance through turbulent mixing. A numerical model is applied to the Changjiang estuary in order to demonstrate the salinity variance balance and how it reveals the factors controlling stratification. The variance analysis reveals that dissipation reaches its maximum during spring tide in the Changjiang estuary, leading to the lowest stratification. Stratification increases from spring tide to neap tide because of the increasing excess of straining over dissipation. Throughout the spring–neap tidal cycle, straining is almost always larger than dissipation, indicating a net excess of production of vertical variance relative to dissipation. This excess is balanced on average by advection, which exports vertical variance out of the estuarine region into the plume. During neap tide, tidal straining shows a general tendency of destratification during the flood tide and restratification during ebb, consistent with the one-dimensional theory of tidal straining. During spring tide, however, positive straining occurs during flood because of the strong baroclinicity induced by the intensified horizontal salinity gradient. These results indicate that the salinity variance method provides a valuable approach for examining the spatial and temporal variability of stratification in estuaries and coastal environments.

Description: X. Li was supported by the China Scholarship Council. W. R. Geyer was supported by NSF Grants OCE 1736539 and OCE 1634480. J. Zhu was supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (41476077 and 41676083). H. Wu was supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (41576088 and 41776101).

Description: 2018-09-08

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2018. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Climate 31 (2018): 4847-4863, doi:10.1175/JCLI-D-17-0802.1.

Description: The sensitivity of sea ice to the temperature of inflowing Atlantic water across the Greenland–Scotland Ridge is investigated using an eddy-resolving configuration of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology General Circulation Model with idealized topography. During the last glacial period, when climate on Greenland is known to have been extremely unstable, sea ice is thought to have covered the Nordic seas. The dramatic excursions in climate during this period, seen as large abrupt warming events on Greenland and known as Dansgaard–Oeschger (DO) events, are proposed to have been caused by a rapid retreat of Nordic seas sea ice. Here, we show that a full sea ice cover and Arctic-like stratification can exist in the Nordic seas given a sufficiently cold Atlantic inflow and corresponding low transport of heat across the Greenland–Scotland Ridge. Once sea ice is established, continued sea ice formation and melt efficiently freshens the surface ocean and makes the deeper layers more saline. This creates a strong salinity stratification in the Nordic seas, similar to today’s Arctic Ocean, with a cold fresh surface layer protecting the overlying sea ice from the warm Atlantic water below. There is a nonlinear response in Nordic seas sea ice to Atlantic water temperature with simulated large abrupt changes in sea ice given small changes in inflowing temperature. This suggests that the DO events were more likely to have occurred during periods of reduced warm Atlantic water inflow to the Nordic seas.

Description: The research was supported by the Centre for Climate Dynamics at the Bjerknes Centre for Climate Research. The research leading to these results is part of the ice2ice project funded by the European Research Council under the European Community Seventh Framework Programme (FP7/2007-2013)/ERC Grant Agreement 610055.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2006

Description: South American climate has undergone dramatic changes since the last glacial period, as evidenced from Cariaco Basin (Venezuelan coast) and Peru Margin marine sediment biomarker records. Compounds derived from vascular plant leaf waxes and delivered to the marine sedimentary environment, including long-chain (C24-C32) nalkanoic acids, were used as proxies for terrestrial vegetation type, aridity, and atmospheric circulation. Marine biomarkers, such as sterols and phytol, were used to reconstruct productivity in the Peru Margin upwelling zone, where sedimentary conditions are not conducive to the preservation of foraminifera. Through the use of organic molecular isotopic techniques and multi-molecular stratigraphy, a great deal can be learned about communities of marine organisms and terrestrial plants that existed in the past and the environments in which they lived. Vascular plant leaf wax carbon and hydrogen isotopic records were generated from n-alkanoic acids preserved in Cariaco Basin marine sediments. These records were compared to previously established pollen and climate records and were found to parallel local millennial-scale climate changes between the late Glacial and Preboreal periods, which were characterized by migrations of the inter-tropical convergence zone. Differences in δD between C16-C18 and C24-C30 n-alkanoic acids suggest a marine source for the shorter chain lengths and a terrestrial source for the longer chains. Stacked δD and δ13C records both exhibited isotopic enrichment during the late Glacial and Younger Dryas periods and depletion during the Bølling-Allerød and Preboreal periods. If interpreted as an aridity proxy, the δD record is in agreement with Cariaco Basin sediment grey scale records, suggesting that the late Glacial and Younger Dryas were more arid than the Bølling-Allerød and Preboreal periods. n-Alkanoic acid δ13C, which is a proxy for C3 versus C4 plant type, indicates that C3 plants predominated in this area of the tropics during warm and wet periods, such as the Bølling-Allerød and the Holocene, and C4 plants proliferated during cooler and more arid periods, such as the Glacial and Younger Dryas. The biomarker δ13C record agrees with pollen data previously developed from Cariaco Basin sediments, confirming that leaf wax compounds preserved in marine sediments can accurately record terrestrial vegetation changes. Analytical methods utilizing stir bar sorptive extraction (SBSE) and thermal desorption were developed and applied to investigate lipid organic matter in a suite of alpine ice cores. These methods permit use of small volume (10-30 ml) samples, as would be required for high-resolution down-core analyses. SBSE involves using a polymer coated stir bar to extract organic matter from aqueous samples, after which it is loaded directly into a thermal desorption unit and the organic matter transferred in its entirety to a gas chromatograph inlet. To test these methods and the organic content of tropical ice, post-industrial samples from two South American, two Asian, and one African ice core were analyzed. Compounds identified in the modern ice core samples included natural and anthropogenic biomarkers such as n-alkanes, n-alkanoic acids, nalkyl amides and nitriles, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), and diterpenoids. Variability in the distributions of these compounds between different cores demonstrated that the lipid organic fraction in each core was representative of mostly local inputs. To further investigate natural inputs, several pre-industrial samples were analyzed from the Sajama ice core in the Andes and The Puruogangri core on the Tibetan Plateau. Inputs of terrestrial vegetation combustion biomarkers such as PAHs, diterpenoids, and alkyl amides were consistent with periods of enhanced aridity in each core. The results of this investigation demonstrate the utility of the methodology, which could now be applied to generate very high-resolution biomarker records from tropical ice cores. Gas chromatography/time-of-flight mass spectrometry (GC/TOF-MS) was used to generate a high-resolution, multi-molecular organic biomarker record from Peru Margin sediments (~11oS, 252 m water depth) for the last 15 ka. Because of their position beneath the oxygen minimum zone of a productive upwelling region, these sediments contain a wealth of compounds that can be exploited as paleoclimate indicators. TOF-MS and fast GC techniques allowed me to generate this record in a short amount of time and without employing the traditional suite of purification techniques. Before about 9 ka, organic carbon and biomarker concentration records exhibited similar variability, implying a forcing mechanism that affected input and/or preservation of both marine and terrestrial organic matter, such as large-scale climate change. Organic carbon and biomarker abundances then systematically increased throughout the Holocene and exhibited higher frequency variability, suggesting overall enhanced productivity from rapidly evolving planktonic communities. Similar patterns of variability between bacterial hopanol, sterol degradation product, and primary productivity biomarker records suggest that the productivity biomarkers are recording sea surface and water column processes, and are not significantly biased by sedimentary diagenesis. Low bound sulfur content in lipid extracts and a lack of observed sulfur-containing compounds argue against significant sulfurization and resultant biomarker sequestration in 1228D sediments. Factor analysis provided a statistical means of separating terrestrial and marine organic inputs, and reinforced the interpretations that very long chain n-alkanoic acids (C30-C32) are terrestrially derived and sterol compounds primarily represent marine algal inputs. In all, the biomarker records suggest millennial-scale changes in upwelling strength superimposed on longer-term trends, with additional variability in contributions from specific precursors, such as dinoflagellates. Terrestrial leaf wax compounds also exhibited high-amplitude, millennial-scale variability, but with a different pattern of change than the marine inputs. GC/TOF-MS was shown to be a useful tool for generating high-resolution records of the type necessary to understand the relationships between biomarkers in a complex and sensitive depositional environment such as the Peru Margin. Climate signals embedded in the Peru Margin biomarker records provided clues as to the productivity and upwelling histories of the Peru Margin, as well as regional terrestrial vegetation. Elevated concentrations of marine biomarkers suggest enhanced upwelling and productivity from about 6.5 ka to the present on the Peru Margin, with lower-amplitude millennial-scale variations occurring throughout this period. Enhanced dinosterol abundances after 6.5 ka are consistent with greater occurrences and/or strength of El Niño, while concurrently enhanced upwelling suggests a parallel increase in La Niña activity. Similar timing of mid to late Holocene variability between Peru Margin marine biomarker records, a faunal sea surface temperature record from the eastern tropical Atlantic, and Andean paleoclimate records suggests strong climate links between these regions of the tropics, likely driven by broad-scale changes in El Niño and the Southern Oscillation (ENSO) and trade wind strength. The C30 n-alkanoic acid, which is representative of vascular plant leaf wax inputs, exhibited millennial-scale variability superimposed on longer-term trends that may be related to aridity, assuming fluvial transport of terrestrial material. n-Alkanoic acid δ13C is generally enriched during periods of enhanced leaf wax abundance, consistent with increased inputs of C4 plant material at these times.

Description: Funding for this research was provided by a Schlanger Ocean Drilling Fellowship, which is part of the NSF-sponsored U.S. Science Support Program (USSSP). An NSF grant to TIE (OCE-0402533) provided additional funding for the research presented in Chapters 3-5. Funding for the Cariaco Basin isotopic analyses was provided by the Frank and Lisina Hoch Endowed Fund and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Director’s General Discretionary Fund.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2006

Description: To provide a new perspective on the fate of both natural organic matter and hydrophobic organic contaminants (HOCs) in marine sediments, we have investigated the relationship between radiocarbon (14C) age and the different modes of association in aquatic sediments and soils. Radiocarbon is a sensitive tracer of OM provenance, with variations in its natural abundance reflecting the age and origin of material. The main objective has been to determine the significance of these associations, and to assess how they affect the transport, bioavailability, preservation and residence times of organic compounds in the environment. Our results indicate that the majority of HOCs that persist in marine sediments are solvent-extractable and incorporation into insoluble sediment residues is not quantitatively significant. For pristine sediments, systematic variations in 14C content are observed between different chemically defined sedimentary organic fractions. These variations are dependent on organic matter inputs and/or the affects of diagenesis. Our observations also provide evidence for the protection of labile marine carbon by chemical binding. Finally, the persistence of n-alkanes from biogenic sources compared to those derived from petroleum indicates that protective matrix association can play a crucial role in determining the long-term fate of a compound. Overall, it is clear that both natural organic compounds and HOCs can undergo very different fates depending on their mode of introduction to, and physical disposition in environmental matrices.

Description: Funding for this research was provided by the National Science Foundation, CHE-0089172 to T.I. Eglinton and C.M. Reddy, and OCE-82567700 to T.I. Eglinton. I received support from a Charles Davis Hollister Fellowship from Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution January, 1978

Description: Many of the small-scale topographic features (dimensions of centimeters to kilometers) found on the Blake-Bahama Outer Ridge (western North Atiantic, water depth greater than 4000 m) and in the Rockall Trough (northeastern North Atlantic, water depth greater than 2000 m) have been formed as bed forms of deep currents. These bed forms, all developed in cohesive sediments, include current ripples (spacings of tens of centimeters, formed transverse to the flow), longitudinal triangular ripples (spacings of meters, formed in sandy muds and parallel to the flow), furrows (spacings of tens to 100's of meters, formed parallel to the flow and presently either erosional or depositional), and regular sediment waves (spacings of a few kilometers, now found oblique to the flow and migrating either upstream or downstream). The local distribution of any given bed form is influenced by the presence of larger features. Bed forms are often found in zones which strike parallel to the regional contours. Debris flows, affecting areas of 1000's to 10,000's of square kilometers, are also present in these areas. A debris flow studied in the Rockall Trough is erosional at its shallowest depths and depositional at greater depths. Gravitational flows strike perpendicular to the contours. Pockmarks (tens of meters in diameter, marking fluid seeps) are also found on the Blake-Bahama Outer Ridge. The larger topographic features (greater than several meters) with steep slopes (greater than about 20°) can be observed on surface echo-sounding profiles either as fields of regular hyperbolic echoes (e.g., echoes from regularly spaced furrows), fields of irregularly spaced, dissimilar hyperbolae (e.g., echoes from blocks, ridges, and folds in debris flows), or as regular features whose structure is often obscured by side echoes (e.g., echoes from sediment waves). Although near-bottom investigations are required to describe the features, the nature of the sea floor can often be inferred from the character of the echo-sounding profile. Similar echo-sounding records in different areas of the ocean indicate the presence of similar sea-floor features. The morphology of the bed forms studied and the current and temperature structure of the overlying water column lead to conclusions about bed form origin and present-day interactions with deep currents. Furrows form as erosional bed forms during high-velocity (〉20? cm/sec) current events by large, helical secondary circulations in the bottom boundary layer. Once formed, furrows may develop into depositional features, or they may continue as erosional ones, depending on the local currents and the sediment supply. Large, regular sediment waves may be formed at current speeds of 5 to 10 cm/sec by lee waves generated by topographic irregularities on the sea floor, such as submarine canyons, or by instabilities in the flow of deep, contour-following currents. Sediment waves develop where there is an abundant supply of sediment and steady mean currents. Waves appear to migrate upstream where tidal current fluctuations are smaller than the mean velocity, and downstream where they are larger. Near-bottom currents appear to be faster on the downstream side of upstream-migrating sediment waves than on their upstream side. The resulting variations in bed shear stress lead to higher sedimentation rates on the upstream side and bed form migration in that direction.

Description: This research was made possible by National Science Foundation grants DES 73-06657 and OCE 76-22152, and Office of Naval Research contract N00014-74-C-0262; NR083-004 to Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, NSF grant OCE 74-01671 to Lamont-Doherty Geological Observatory, and numerous NSF grants and ONR contracts to Scripps Institution of Oceanography.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February, 1980

Description: The structure of the inertial peak in deep ocean kinetic energy spectra is studied here. Records were obtained from Polymode arrays deployed in the Western North Atlantic Ocean (40°W to 70°W, 15°N to 42°N). The results are interpreted both in terms of local sources and of turning point effects on internal waves generated at lower latitudes. In most of the data, there is a prominent inertial peak slightly above f; however, the peak height above the background continuum varies with depth and geographical environment. Three classes of environment and their corresponding spectra emerge from peak height variations: class 1 is the 1500 m level near the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, with the greatest peak height of 18 db; class 2 includes (a) the upper ocean (depth less than 2000 m), (b) the deep ocean (depth greater than 2000 m) over rough topography, and (c) the deep ocean underneath the Gulf Stream, with intermediate peak height of 11.5 db; class 3 is the deep ocean over smooth topography, with the lowest peak height of 7.5 db. Near f, the horizontal coherence scale is 0(60 km) at depths from 200 m to 600 m, and the vertical coherence scale is O(200 m) just below the main thermocline. A one turning point model is developed to describe inertial waves at mid-latitudes, based on the assumption that inertial waves are randomly generated at lower latitudes (global generation) where their frequency-wavenumber spectrum is given by the model of Garrett and Munk (1972 a, 1975). Using the globally valid wave functions obtained by Munk and Phillips (1968), various frequency spectra near f are calculated numerically. The model yields a prominent inertial peak of 7 db in the horizontal velocity spectrum but no peaks in the temperature spectrum. The model is latitudinally dependent: the frequency shift and bandwidth of the inertial peak decrease with latitude; energy level near f is minimum at about 30° and higher at low and high latitudes. The observations of class 3 can be well-described by the model; a low zonal wavenumber cutoff is required to produce the observed frequency shift of the inertial peak. The differences between the global generation model and the observations of class 1 and class 2 are interpreted as the effects of local sources. A locally forced model is developed based on the latitudinal modal decomposition of a localized source function. Asymptotic eigensolutions of the Laplace's tidal equation are therefore derived and used as a set of expansion functions. The forcing is through a vertical velocity field specified at the top or bottom boundaries of the ocean. For white noise forcing, the horizontal velocity spectrum of the response has an inertial peak which diminishes in the far-field. With the forcing located at either the surface or the bottom, several properties of the class 2 observations can be described qualitatively by a combination of the global and local models. The reflection of inertial waves from a turbulent benthic boundary layer is studied by a slab model of given depth. Frictional effects are confined to the boundary layer and modelled by a quadratic drag law. For given incident waves, reflection coefficients are found to be greater than 0.9 for the long waves which contain most of the energy. This result suggests that energy-containing inertial waves can propagate over great distance as is required by the validity of the model of global generation.

Description: This work was supported by the National Science Foundation through grant OCE 76-80210 and its continuation OEE 78-19833.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2002

Description: Sound propagation in shallow water is highly dependent on the interaction of the sound field with the bottom. In order to fully understand this problem, it is necessary to obtain reliable estimates of bottom geoacoustic properties that can be used in acoustic propagation codes. In this thesis, perturbative inversion methods and exact inverse methods are discussed as a means for inferring geoacoustic properties of the bottom. For each of these methods, the input data to the inversion is the horizontal wavenumber spectrum of a point-source acoustic field. The main thrust of the thesis work concerns extracting horizontal wavenumber content for fully three-dimensionally varying waveguide environments. In this context, a high-resolution autoregressive (AR) spectral estimator was applied to determine wavenumber content for short aperture data. As part of this work, the AR estimator was examined for its ability to detect discrete wavenumbers in the presence of noise and also to resolve closely spaced wavenumbers for short aperture data. As part of a geoacoustic inversion workshop, the estimator was applied to extract horizontal wavenumber content for synthetic pressure field data with range-varying geoacoustic properties in the sediment. The resulting wavenumber content was used as input data to a perturbative inverse algorithm to determine the sound speed profile in the sediment. It was shown using the high-resolution wavenumber estimator that both the shape and location of the range-variability in the sediment could be determined. The estimator was also applied to determine wavenumbers for synthetic data where the water column sound speed contained temporal variations due to the presence of internal waves. It was shown that reliable estimates of horizontal wavenumbers could be obtained that are consistent with the boundary conditions of the waveguide. The Modal Mapping Experiment (MOMAX), an experimental method for measuring the full spatial variability of a propagating sound field and its corresponding modal content in two-dimensions, is also discussed. The AR estimator is applied to extract modal content from the real data and interpreted with respect to source/receiver motion and geometry. For a moving source, it is shown that the wavenumber content is Doppler shifted. A method is then described that allows the direct measure of modal group velocities from Doppler shifted wavenumber spectra. Finally, numerical studies are presented addressing the practical issues associated with using MOMAX type data in the exact inversion method of Gelfand-Levitan.

Description: I am especially grateful to ONR for providing the funding for me to do this work.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August 1982

Description: The development of nonlinear surface and internal wave groups is investigated. Surface wave evolution was observed in an unusually long wave channel as a function of steepness and group length. Dissipation and frequency downshifting were important characteristics of the long-time evolution. The amplitude and phase modulations were obtained using the Hilbert transform and specified as an initial condition to the cubic nonlinear Schrodinger equation, which was solved numerically. This equation is known to govern the slowly varying complex modulation envelope of gravity waves on deep water. When dissipation was included, the model compared quite well with the observations. Phase modulation was used to interpret the long-time behavior, using the phase evolution of exact asymptotic solutions as a guide. The wave groups exhibited a long-time coherence but not the recurrence predicted by the inviscid theory. An oceanic field study of the generation of groups of large amplitude internal waves by stratified tidal flow over a submarine ridge indicates that the large amplitude and asymmetry of the topography are critical in determining the type of flow response. The calculated Froude numbers response length scale and duration differ markedly between the two phases of the tide due to the asymmetry.

Description: Research assistantship provided by the Office of Naval Research contract no. N00014-80-C-0273

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2002

Description: Predictions of deposition rate are integral to the transport of many constituents including contaminants, organic matter, and larvae. Review of the literature demonstrates a general appreciation for the potential control of deposition by bed roughness, but no direct tests involving flat sediment beds. Understanding the mechanisms at work for flat sediment beds would provide the basis for exploring more complicated bed conditions and the incorporation of other transport processes, such as bioturbation and bedload transport. Generally, fine particle deposition rates are assumed to be equivalent to the suspension settling velocity, therefore, deposition rates in excess of settling are considered enhanced. Flume observations of deposition were made using treatments that covered a wide range of flow, particle, and bed conditions. Specific treatments demonstrated large enhancements (up to eight times settling). Delivery of particles to the interface is important, but models based on delivery alone failed to predict the observed enhancement. This necessitated the development of a new model based on a balance between delivery and filtration in the bed. Interfacial diffusion was chosen as a model for particle delivery. Filtration of particles by the bed is a useful framework for retention, but the shear in the interstitial flow may introduce additional factors not included in traditional filtration experiments. The model performed well in prediction of flow conditions, but there remained a discrepancy between predictions and observed deposition rate, especially for treatments with significant enhancement. Fluid flow predictions by the model,; such as slip at the sediment water interface and fluid penetration into the sediment, appeared to be supported by flume experiments. Therefore, failure to predict the magnitude of enhancement was attributed to far greater filtration efficiencies for the sediment water interface than those measured in sediment columns. Emerging techniques to directly measure fluid and particle motion at the interface could reveal these mechanisms. The observation of enhanced deposition to flat sediment beds reinforces the importance of permeable sediments to the mediation of transport from the water column to the sediment bed.

Description: The Education Office at the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution coordinated and provided funding for much of my time here. Additional support has been provided by the Andrew W. Mellon Foundation, the Cooperative Institute for Climate and Ocean Research (CICOR), and the Offce of Naval Research under grant numbers N00014-97-1-0556 (STRATAFORM Plume Study Moored Observations: Data Analysis and Modeling), N00014-96-1-0953 (Graduate Student Training in Engineering: Instrumenting the Continental Shelf Wave Bottom Boundary Layer), and N00014-94-1-0713 (Coupled Biological, Geological and Hydrodynamical Processes Associated with Fine-Particle Transport & Accumulation in the Coastal Ocean).

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2009. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 39 (2009): 1035-1049, doi:10.1175/2008JPO3920.1.

Description: Seasonal variability of near-inertial horizontal kinetic energy is examined using observations from a series of McLane Moored Profiler moorings located at 39°N, 69°W in the western North Atlantic Ocean in combination with a one-dimensional, depth-integrated kinetic energy model. The time-mean kinetic energy and shear vertical wavenumber spectra of the high-frequency motions at the mooring site are in reasonable agreement with the Garrett–Munk internal wave description. Time series of depth-dependent and depth-integrated near-inertial kinetic energy are calculated from available mooring data after filtering to isolate near-inertial-frequency motions. These data document a pronounced seasonal cycle featuring a wintertime maximum in the depth-integrated near-inertial kinetic energy deriving chiefly from the variability in the upper 500 m of the water column. The seasonal signal in the near-inertial kinetic energy is most prominent for motions with vertical wavelengths greater than 100 m but observable wintertime enhancement is seen down to wavelengths of the order of 10 m. Rotary vertical wavenumber spectra exhibit a dominance of clockwise-with-depth energy, indicative of downward energy propagation and implying a surface energy source. A simple depth-integrated near-inertial kinetic energy model consisting of a wind forcing term and a dissipation term captures the order of magnitude of the observed near-inertial kinetic energy as well as its seasonal cycle.

Description: Funding to initiate the McLane Moored Profiler observations at Line W were provided by grants from the G. Unger Vetlesen Foundation and the Comer Charitable Fund to the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution’s Ocean and Climate Change Institute. Ongoing moored observations at Line W are supported by the National Science Foundation (NSF Grant OCE-0241354).

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2008. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 38 (2008): 418-434, doi:10.1175/2007JPO3372.1.

Description: Stratification and turbulent mixing exhibit a flood–ebb tidal asymmetry in estuaries and continental shelf regions affected by horizontal density gradients. The authors use a large-eddy simulation (LES) model to investigate the penetration of a tidally driven bottom boundary layer into stratified water in the presence of a horizontal density gradient. Turbulence in the bottom boundary layer is driven by bottom stress during flood tides, with low-gradient (Ri) and flux (Rf) Richardson numbers, but by localized shear during ebb tides, with Ri = ¼ and Rf = 0.2 in the upper half of the boundary layer. If the water column is unstratified initially, the LES model reproduces periodic stratification associated with tidal straining. The model results show that the energetics criterion based on the competition between tidal straining and tidal stirring provides a good prediction for the onset of periodic stratification, but the tidally averaged horizontal Richardson number Rix has a threshold value of about 0.2, which is lower than the 3 suggested in a recent study. Although the tidal straining leads to negative buoyancy flux on flood tides, the authors find that for typical values of the horizontal density gradient and tidal currents in estuaries and shelf regions, buoyancy production is much smaller than shear production in generating turbulent kinetic energy.

Description: This work is supported by Grants OCE-0451699 and OCE-0451740 from the National Science Foundation.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2007. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 37 (2007): 1163-1176, doi:10.1175/jpo3060.1.

Description: The circulation in the equatorial Pacific Ocean is studied in a series of numerical experiments based on an isopycnal coordinate model. The model is subject to monthly mean climatology of wind stress and surface thermohaline forcing. In response to decadal variability in the diapycnal mixing coefficient, sea surface temperature and other properties of the circulation system oscillate periodically. The strongest sea surface temperature anomaly appears in the geographic location of Niño-3 region with the amplitude on the order of 0.5°C, if the model is subject to a 30-yr sinusoidal oscillation in diapycnal mixing coefficient that varies between 0.03 × 10−4 and 0.27 × 10−4 m2 s−1. Changes in diapycnal mixing coefficient of this amplitude are within the bulk range consistent with the external mechanical energy input in the global ocean, especially when considering the great changes of tropical cyclones during the past decades. Thus, time-varying diapycnal mixing associated with changes in wind energy input into the ocean may play a nonnegligible role in decadal climate variability in the equatorial circulation and climate.

Description: CJH and WW were supported by The National Natural Science Foundation of China through Grant 40476010 and National Basic Research Priorities Programmer of China through Grant 2005CB422302. RXH was supported by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration through CICOR Cooperative Agreement NA17RJ1223 to the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. This study is also supported through the Chinese 111 Project under Contract B07036.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution June 1998

Description: The evolution of a coastal ocean undergoing uniform surface heat loss is examined. The dynamics of this ocean are initially modulated by the intense vertical mixing driven by surface cooling. The strong vertical mixing prevents the formation of geostrophic flows and inhibits the cross-shelf flux of heat. The vertical mixing is eventually suppressed by the advective transport of cold, dense water offshore. Once this happens, alongshore geostrophic flows form, and become baroclinically unstable. The surface heat flux is then balanced by a cross-shelf eddy heat flux. Scales are found for the cross-shelf density gradient which results from this balance. Solutions for linear internal waves are found for a wedge-shaped bathymetry with bottom friction. Bottom friction is capable of entirely dissipating the waves before they reach the coast, and waves traveling obliquely offshore are reflected back to the coast from a caustic. The internal wave climate near two moorings of the Coastal Ocean Dynamics Experiment observation program is analyzed. The high frequency internal wave energy levels were elevated above the Garrett and Munk spectrum, and the spectrum becomes less red as one moves to the shore. The wave field is dominated by vertical-mode one waves, and internal wave energy propagates shoreward.

Description: This work was funded by an Office of Naval Research fellowship and and Office of Naval Research AASERT fellowship, N00014-95:-1-0746.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2011

Description: This thesis describes the physics of fully three-dimensional low frequency acoustic interaction with internal waves, bottom sediment waves and surface swell waves that are often observed in shallow waters and on continental slopes. A simple idealized model of the ocean waveguide is used to analytically study the properties of acoustic normal modes and their perturbations due to waves of each type. The combined approach of a semi-quantitative study based on the geometrical acoustics approximation and on fully three-dimensional coupled mode numerical modeling is used to examine the azimuthal dependence of sound wave horizontal reflection from, transmission through and ducting between straight parallel waves of each type. The impact of the natural crossings of nonlinear internal waves on horizontally ducted sound energy is studied theoretically and modeled numerically using a three-dimensional parabolic equation acoustic propagation code. A realistic sea surface elevation is synthesized from the directional spectrum of long swells and used for three-dimensional numerical modeling of acoustic propagation. As a result, considerable normal mode amplitude scintillations were observed and shown to be strongly dependent on horizontal azimuth, range and mode number. Full field numerical modeling of low frequency sound propagation through large sand waves located on a sloped bottom was performed using the high resolution bathymetry of the mouth of San Francisco Bay. Very strong acoustic ducting is shown to steer acoustic energy beams along the sand wave’s curved crests.

Description: Office of Naval Research for the financial support of this work.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2012. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 42 (2012): 329-351, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-11-026.1.

Description: Data from a closely spaced array of moorings situated across the Beaufort Sea shelfbreak at 152°W are used to study the Western Arctic Shelfbreak Current, with emphasis on its configuration during the summer season. Two dynamically distinct states of the current are revealed in the absence of wind, with each lasting approximately one month. The first is a surface-intensified shelfbreak jet transporting warm and buoyant Alaskan Coastal Water in late summer. This is the eastward continuation of the Alaskan Coastal Current. It is both baroclinically and barotropically unstable and hence capable of forming the surface-intensified warm-core eddies observed in the southern Beaufort Sea. The second configuration, present during early summer, is a bottom-intensified shelfbreak current advecting weakly stratified Chukchi Summer Water. It is baroclinically unstable and likely forms the middepth warm-core eddies present in the interior basin. The mesoscale instabilities extract energy from the mean flow such that the surface-intensified jet should spin down over an e-folding distance of 300 km beyond the array site, whereas the bottom-intensified configuration should decay within 150 km. This implies that Pacific Summer Water does not extend far into the Canadian Beaufort Sea as a well-defined shelfbreak current. In contrast, the Pacific Winter Water configuration of the shelfbreak jet is estimated to decay over a much greater distance of approximately 1400 km, implying that it should reach the first entrance to the Canadian Arctic Archipelago.

Description: This work was supported by National Science Foundation GrantsOCE-0726640,OPP-0731928, and OPP-0713250.

Description: 2012-09-01

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2012. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 42 (2012): 855–868, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-10-05010.1.

Description: Data from the Hudson River estuary demonstrate that the tidal variations in vertical salinity stratification are not consistent with the patterns associated with along-channel tidal straining. These observations result from three additional processes not accounted for in the traditional tidal straining model: 1) along-channel and 2) lateral advection of horizontal gradients in the vertical salinity gradient and 3) tidal asymmetries in the strength of vertical mixing. As a result, cross-sectionally averaged values of the vertical salinity gradient are shown to increase during the flood tide and decrease during the ebb. Only over a limited portion of the cross section does the observed stratification increase during the ebb and decrease during the flood. These observations highlight the three-dimensional nature of estuarine flows and demonstrate that lateral circulation provides an alternate mechanism that allows for the exchange of materials between surface and bottom waters, even when direct turbulent mixing through the pycnocline is prohibited by strong stratification.

Description: The funding for this research was obtained from NSF Grant OCE-08-25226.

Description: 2012-11-01

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution January 1993

Description: Although the association between soft-sediment invertebrates and a specific sediment type has been documented for many habitats, most studies have been correlative and have failed to convincingly demonstrate any single mechanism to explain this association. Sediment type has generally been characterized by grain size, however, many other potential causal factors correlate with grain size, including organic content, microbial content, stability, food supply, and larval supply. One hypothesis for animal-sediment associations is that settling larvae are transported as passive particles and are sorted into different sedimentary habitats much like sediment grains. To test the hypothesis that near-bed hydrodynamics may modify larval settlement, field and flume experiments were conducted where larval settlement was compared between microdepositional environments (small depressions) and non-trapping environments (flush treatments). Depressions have been observed to trap passive particles, and these experiments were therefore designed to test whether settling larvae would be trapped in depressions like passive particles. Flume flow simulations were carried out with the polychaete Capitella sp. I and the bivalve Mulinia latera/is. Experiments with flush and depression sediment treatments were conducted in the absence of the potentially confounding effects of suspended sediment and organic matter and therefore offered a highly controlled, explicit test of passive hydrodynamic deposition of larvae in depressions. Although larvae of both species were generally able to actively select a high-organic sediment over a low-organic alternative with a comparable grain size, elevated densities of both species were observed in depressions for a given sediment treatment. Thus, both species appeared to be vulnerable to hydrodynamic trapping. M. latera/is larvae, however, often made a "poor choice" by settling in high numbers in depressions containing the low-organic sediment while Capitella sp. I larvae were generally able to "escape" from depressions if the sediment was unsuitable. In field experiments carried out at Station R in Buzzards Bay, Massachusetts, significantly higher densities of Mediomastus ambiseta juveniles, spionid polychaete juveniles, bivalves, gastropod larvae, and nemerteans were observed in depressions compared with flush treatments over 5 relatively short experimental periods (3 or 4 days each) during the summer of 1990. Of the abundant taxa, only Capitella spp. was not significantly more abundant in depressions compared with flush treatments, although numbers tended to be higher in depressions. Experiments were conducted over a short time period to minimize potential biological interactions between taxa and reduce the likelihood that organic material would accumulate in depressions and provide a cue for settling larvae. Thus, higher numbers in depressions suggest that larvae were passively entrained. These flume and field experiments suggest that near-bed hydrodynamics may modify settlement at some scales, and that both active and passive processes may operate in determining larval distributions in shallow-water, muddy habitats. In deep-sea ecosystems, the role of near-bed hydrodynamics is also of interest because of the potential role that larval settlement in organic patches may play in maintaining the immense species diversity characteristic of many deep-sea ecosystems. To try to understand the role of organic patches in deep-sea communities, several investigators have used colonization trays containing sediments that have been treated in different ways. These experiments have been criticized in the past because the sediment surface in the trays was elevated above the bottom and may therefore have interfered with natural boundary layer flow. Flume simulations of flow over these colonization trays revealed serious flow artifacts generated by the trays, and that flow across the sediment surface of the trays was characterized by turbulent eddies, accelerated velocities and boundary layer thickening. These sorts of flow characteristics would not be expected over natural sediments, and an alternative colonization tray was designed to eliminate these artifacts. To test the hypothesis that different types of food patches would result in different types of larval response, and determine how near-bed hydrodynamics may influence larval settlement, flush colonization trays filled with prefrozen sediment were deployed in tandem with artificial depressions south of St. Croix, U.S.V.I at 900 m depth. Colonization trays and artificial depressions were either unenriched or enriched with Thalassiosira sp. and Sargassum sp. two types of algae chosen to mimic natural food patches on the sea floor. Unexpectedly high densities of organisms colonized trays after only 23 days. The Thalassiosira trays were colonized by high densities of a relatively low diversity, opportunistic fauna, Sargassum trays were colonized by lower densities of a higher diversity fauna, and unenriched trays were colonized by very low numbers of a very diverse fauna. All tray faunas were markedly different in composition from the natural, ambient fauna. These fmdings suggest that different patch types did, indeed, result in a specialized faunal response to each of the "patch" types. Depressions on the sea floor provide a natural mechanism for food patch formation because passive particles such as detritus and algae tend to be entrained in the depressions. To determine whether dominant colonizers would be entrained in depressions like passive particles or could differentiate between depression "patch" types in a flow environment that might be expected to make active selection more difficult, artificial depressions were unenriched or enriched with Sargassum sp. or Thalassiosira sp. Total densities of organisms and densities of the most abundant species were substantially lower in artificial depressions than in trays. Densities in Thalassiosira depressions were lower than in Sargassum depressions and densities in unenriched depressions were extremely low, suggesting that dominant colonizers were not passively entrained in depressions and that colonization was specialized and highly active for these taxa. A different fauna was also observed in natural depressions compared with flush sediments, suggesting that natural depressions do contribute to species coexistence. Long-term tray deployments designed to test whether different faunas would be present in "patches" of different ages indicated that time may also play an important part in a deep-sea patch mosaic.

Description: This was funded by NSF and ONR, NOAA, NSERC (Canada), WHOI Ocean Ventures Fund and the WHOI Ditty Bag Fund.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Ocean Engineer at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August 1993

Description: Travel time perturbations of adiabatic normal modes due to an internal tide and internal mode field in the Barents Sea are examined. A formalism for the travel time perturbation due to a change in sound speed is presented. Internal tide and internal wave amplitude spectra are calculated from Brancker temperature loggers which were deployed on moorings in the Barents Sea during the August 1992 Barents Sea Polar Front Experiment. In particular, the first three internal wave mode amplitudes are estimated from the four Brancker temperature loggers on the southwest mooring of the array. Modal perturbations in acoustic pulse travel time and the travel time covariance are calculated and compared for consistency to a simple ray model. These perturbations are small for the modal arrivals that the vertical acoustic array which was deployed is expected to resolve. The third internal wave mode has the largest impact on the acoustic arrivals, per unit amplitude, but the first internal wave mode dominates the scattering due to having a much larger amplitude overall.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2013. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 43 (2013): 259–282, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-11-0194.1.

Description: This study reports on observations of turbulent dissipation and internal wave-scale flow properties in a standing meander of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current (ACC) north of the Kerguelen Plateau. The authors characterize the intensity and spatial distribution of the observed turbulent dissipation and the derived turbulent mixing, and consider underpinning mechanisms in the context of the internal wave field and the processes governing the waves’ generation and evolution. The turbulent dissipation rate and the derived diapycnal diffusivity are highly variable with systematic depth dependence. The dissipation rate is generally enhanced in the upper 1000–1500 m of the water column, and both the dissipation rate and diapycnal diffusivity are enhanced in some places near the seafloor, commonly in regions of rough topography and in the vicinity of strong bottom flows associated with the ACC jets. Turbulent dissipation is high in regions where internal wave energy is high, consistent with the idea that interior dissipation is related to a breaking internal wave field. Elevated turbulence occurs in association with downward-propagating near-inertial waves within 1–2 km of the surface, as well as with upward-propagating, relatively high-frequency waves within 1–2 km of the seafloor. While an interpretation of these near-bottom waves as lee waves generated by ACC jets flowing over small-scale topographic roughness is supported by the qualitative match between the spatial patterns in predicted lee wave radiation and observed near-bottom dissipation, the observed dissipation is found to be only a small percentage of the energy flux predicted by theory. The mismatch suggests an alternative fate to local dissipation for a significant fraction of the radiated energy.

Description: SW acknowledges the support of the Grantham Institute for Climate Change, Imperial College London. ACNG acknowledges the support of a NERC Advanced Research Fellowship (Grant NE/C517633/1). KLP acknowledges support from Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution bridge support funds.

Description: 2013-08-01

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2013. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 43 (2013): 766–789, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-12-0141.1.

Description: Nonlinear energy transfers from the semidiurnal internal tide to high-mode, near-diurnal motions are documented near Kaena Ridge, Hawaii, an energetic generation site for the baroclinic tide. Data were collected aboard the Research Floating Instrument Platform (FLIP) over a 35-day period during the fall of 2002, as part of the Hawaii Ocean Mixing Experiment (HOME) Nearfield program. Energy transfer terms for a PSI resonant interaction at midlatitude are identified and compared to those for near-inertial PSI close to the M2 critical latitude. Bispectral techniques are used to demonstrate significant energy transfers in the Nearfield, between the low-mode M2 internal tide and subharmonic waves with frequencies near M2/2 and vertical wavelengths of O(120 m). A novel prefilter is used to test the PSI wavenumber resonance condition, which requires the subharmonic waves to propagate in opposite vertical directions. Depth–time maps of the interactions, formed by directly estimating the energy transfer terms, show that energy is transferred predominantly from the tide to subharmonic waves, but numerous reverse energy transfers are also found. A net forward energy transfer rate of 2 × 10−9 W kg−1 is found below 400 m. The suggestion is that the HOME observations of energy transfer from the tide to subharmonic waves represent a first step in the open-ocean energy cascade. Observed PSI transfer rates could account for a small but significant fraction of the turbulent dissipation of the tide within 60 km of Kaena Ridge. Further extrapolation suggests that integrated PSI energy transfers equatorward of the M2 critical latitude may be comparable to PSI energy transfers previously observed near 28.8°N.

Description: This work was supported by the National Science Foundation and the Office of Naval Research.

Description: 2013-10-01

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2013. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Climate 26 (2013): 2833–2844, doi:10.1175/JCLI-D-12-00181.1.

Description: The Community Climate System Model, version 4 (CCSM4) is used to assess the climate impact of wind-generated near-inertial waves (NIWs). Even with high-frequency coupling, CCSM4 underestimates the strength of NIWs, so that a parameterization for NIWs is developed and included into CCSM4. Numerous assumptions enter this parameterization, the core of which is that the NIW velocity signal is detected during the model integration, and amplified in the shear computation of the ocean surface boundary layer module. It is found that NIWs deepen the ocean mixed layer by up to 30%, but they contribute little to the ventilation and mixing of the ocean below the thermocline. However, the deepening of the tropical mixed layer by NIWs leads to a change in tropical sea surface temperature and precipitation. Atmospheric teleconnections then change the global sea level pressure fields so that the midlatitude westerlies become weaker. Unfortunately, the magnitude of the real air-sea flux of NIW energy is poorly constrained by observations; this makes the quantitative assessment of their climate impact rather uncertain. Thus, a major result of the present study is that because of its importance for global climate the uncertainty in the observed tropical NIW energy has to be reduced.

Description: This research was funded as part of the Climate Process Team on internal wave-driven mixing with NSF Grant Nr E0968771 at NCAR.

Description: 2013-11-01

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2015. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 45 (2015): 2773–2789, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-15-0031.1.

Description: Tidal oscillatory salt transport, induced by the correlation between tidal variations in salinity and velocity, is an important term for the subtidal salt balance under the commonly used Eulerian method of salt transport decomposition. In this paper, its mechanisms in a partially stratified estuary are investigated with a numerical model of the Hudson estuary. During neap tides, when the estuary is strongly stratified, the tidal oscillatory salt transport is mainly due to the hydraulic response of the halocline to the longitudinal variation of topography. This mechanism does not involve vertical mixing, so it should not be regarded as oscillatory shear dispersion, but instead it should be regarded as advective transport of salt, which results from the vertical distortion of exchange flow obtained in the Eulerian decomposition by vertical fluctuations of the halocline. During spring tides, the estuary is weakly stratified, and vertical mixing plays a significant role in the tidal variation of salinity. In the spring tide regime, the tidal oscillatory salt transport is mainly due to oscillatory shear dispersion. In addition, the transient lateral circulation near large channel curvature causes the transverse tilt of the halocline. This mechanism has little effect on the cross-sectionally integrated tidal oscillatory salt transport, but it results in an apparent left–right cross-channel asymmetry of tidal oscillatory salt transport. With the isohaline framework, tidal oscillatory salt transport can be regarded as a part of the net estuarine salt transport, and the Lagrangian advective mechanism and dispersive mechanism can be distinguished.

Description: Tao Wang was supported by the Open Research Fund of State Key Laboratory of Estuarine and Coastal Research (Grant SKLEC-KF201509) and Chinese Scholarship Council. Geyer was supported by by NSF Grant OCE 0926427. Wensheng Jiang was supported by NSFC-Shandong Joint Fund for Marine Science Research Centers (Grant U1406401).

Description: 2016-05-01

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2016. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 46 (2016): 3415-3427, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-16-0035.1.

Description: The behavior of an axisymmetric vertical turbulent jet in an unconfined stratified environment is studied by means of well-resolved, large-eddy simulations. The stratification is two uniform layers separated by a thermocline. This study considers two cases: when the thermocline thickness is small and on the order of the jet diameter at the thermocline entrance. The Froude number of the jet at the thermocline varies from 0.6 to 1.9, corresponding to the class of weak fountains. The mean jet penetration, stratified turbulent entrainment, jet oscillations, and the generation of internal waves are examined. The mean jet penetration is predicted well by a simple model based on the conservation of the source energy in the thermocline. The entrainment coefficient for the thin thermocline is consistent with the theoretical model for a two-layer stratification with a sharp interface, while for the thick thermocline entrainment is larger at low Froude numbers. The data reveal the presence of a secondary horizontal flow in the upper part of the thick thermocline, resulting in the entrainment of fluid from the thermocline rather than from the upper stratification layer. The spectra of the jet oscillations in the thermocline display two peaks, at the same frequencies for both stratifications at fixed Froude number. For the thick thermocline, internal waves are generated only at the lower frequency, since the higher peak exceeds the maximal buoyancy frequency. For the thin thermocline, conversely, the spectra of the internal waves show the two peaks at low Froude numbers, whereas only one peak at the lower frequency is observed at higher Froude numbers.

Description: This work was supported by the Linné FLOW Centre at KTH (E. E.), the European Research Council Grant ERC-2013-CoG-616186, TRITOS (L. B.), and the Swedish Research Council (VR), Outstanding Young Researcher Award (L. B.). Support to C. C. was given by the NSF Project OCE-1434041.

Description: 2017-05-10

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2016. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology 33 (2016): 2373-2384, doi:10.1175/JTECH-D-16-0024.1.

Description: A long-path methane (CH4) sensor was developed and field deployed using an 8-μm quantum cascade laser. The high optical power (40 mW) of the laser allowed for path-integrated measurements of ambient CH4 at total pathlengths from 100 to 1200 m with the use of a retroreflector. Wavelength modulation spectroscopy was used to make high-precision measurements of atmospheric pressure–broadened CH4 absorption over these long distances. An in-line reference cell with higher harmonic detection provided metrics of system stability in rapidly changing and harsh environments. The system consumed less than 100 W of power and required no consumables. The measurements intercompared favorably (typically less than 5% difference) with a commercial in situ methane sensor when accounting for the different spatiotemporal scales of the measurements. The sensor was field deployed for 2 weeks at an arctic lake to examine the robustness of the approach in harsh field environments. Short-term precision over a 458-m pathlength was 10 ppbv at 1 Hz, equivalent to a signal from a methane enhancement above background of 5 ppmv in a 1-m length. The sensor performed well in a range of harsh environmental conditions, including snow, rain, wind, and changing temperatures. These field measurements demonstrate the capabilities of the approach for use in detecting large but highly variable emissions in arctic environments.

Description: The authors gratefully acknowledge funding for this work by MIRTHE through NSF-ERC Grant EEC-0540832. D. J. Miller acknowledges support by the National Science Foundation Graduate Research Fellowship under Grant DGE-0646086. K. Sun acknowledges support by the NASA Earth and Space Science Fellowship IIP-1263579.

Description: 2017-05-01

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2017. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 47 (2017): 485-498, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-16-0175.1.

Description: Dense oceanic overflows descend over the rough topography of the continental slope entraining and mixing with surrounding waters. The associated dilution dictates the fate of these currents and thus is of fundamental importance to the formation of deep water masses. The entrainment in a dense current flowing down a sloping bottom in a rotating homogeneous fluid is investigated using laboratory experiments, focusing on the influence of the bottom roughness on the flow dynamics. The roughness is idealized by an array of vertical rigid cylinders and both their spacing and height are varied as well as the inclination of the sloping bottom. The presence of the roughness is generally observed to decelerate the dense current, with a consequent reduction of the Froude number, when compared to the smooth bottom configuration. However, the dilution of the dense current due to mixing with the ambient fluid is enhanced by the roughness elements, especially for low Froude numbers. When the entrainment due to shear instability at the interface between the dense current and the ambient fluid is low, the additional turbulence and mixing arising at the bottom of the dense current due to the roughness elements strongly affects the dilution of the current. Finally, a strong dependence of the entrainment parameter on the Reynolds number is observed.

Description: Support to C. C. was given by the National Science Foundation Project OCE- 1333174. Support to L. O. during her internship at WHOI was provided by the Lions Club ‘‘Napoli Megaride’’ and the Zoological Station Anton Dohrn through the Paolo Brancaccio fellowship (2012).

Description: 2017-08-20

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2018. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 48 (2018): 773-794, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-17-0205.1.

Description: Fourteen autonomous profiling floats, equipped with CTDs, were deployed in the deep eastern and western basins of the Gulf of Mexico over a four-year interval (July 2011–August 2015), producing a total of 706 casts. This is the first time since the early 1970s that there has been a comprehensive survey of water masses in the deep basins of the Gulf, with better vertical resolution than available from older ship-based surveys. Seven floats had 14-day cycles with parking depths of 1500 m, and the other half from the U.S. Argo program had varying cycle times. Maps of characteristic water masses, including Subtropical Underwater, Antarctic Intermediate Water (AAIW), and North Atlantic Deep Water, showed gradients from east to west, consistent with their sources being within the Loop Current (LC) and the Yucatan Channel waters. Altimeter SSH was used to characterize profiles being in LC or LC eddy water or in cold eddies. The two-layer nature of the deep Gulf shows isotherms being deeper in the warm anticyclonic LC and LC eddies and shallower in the cold cyclones. Mixed layer depths have an average seasonal signal that shows maximum depths (~60 m) in January and a minimum in June–July (~20 m). Basin-mean steric heights from 0–50-m dynamic heights and altimeter SSH show a seasonal range of ~12 cm, with significant interannual variability. The translation of LC eddies across the western basin produces a region of low homogeneous potential vorticity centered over the deepest part of the western basin.

Description: The authors were supported by the Department of the Interior, Bureau of Ocean Energy Management (BOEM), Contract M08PC20043 to Leidos, Inc., Raleigh, North Carolina.

Description: 2018-10-04

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2018. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 48 (2018): 905-923, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-17-0133.1.

Description: Observations of turbulent kinetic energy, dissipation, and turbulent stress were collected in the middle reaches of Chesapeake Bay and were used to assess second-moment closure predictions of turbulence generated beneath breaking waves. Dissipation scaling indicates that the turbulent flow structure observed during a 10-day wind event was dominated by a three-layer response that consisted of 1) a wave transport layer, 2) a surface log layer, and 3) a tidal, bottom boundary layer limited by stable stratification. Below the wave transport layer, turbulent mixing was limited by stable stratification. Within the wave transport layer, where dissipation was balanced by a divergence in the vertical turbulent kinetic energy flux, the eddy viscosity was significantly underestimated by second-moment turbulence closure models, suggesting that breaking waves homogenized the mixed surface layer to a greater extent than the simple model of TKE diffusing away from a source at the surface. While the turbulent transport of TKE occurred largely downgradient, the intermittent downward sweeps of momentum generated by breaking waves occurred largely independent of the mean shear. The underprediction of stress in the wave transport layer by second-moment closures was likely due to the inability of the eddy viscosity model to capture the nonlocal turbulent transport of the momentum flux beneath breaking waves. Finally, the authors hypothesize that large-scale coherent turbulent eddies played a significant role in transporting momentum generated near the surface to depth.

Description: This work was supported by National Science Foundation Grants OCE-1061609 and OCE-1339032.

Description: 2018-10-19

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2018. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 48 (2018): 1815-1830, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-17-0275.1.

Description: Recent progress in direct numerical simulations (DNSs) of stratified turbulent flows has led to increasing attention to the validity of the constancy of the dissipation flux coefficient Γ in the Osborn’s eddy diffusivity model. Motivated by lack of observational estimates of Γ, particularly under weakly stratified deep-ocean conditions, this study estimates Γ using deep microstructure profiles collected in various regions of the North Pacific and Southern Oceans. It is shown that Γ is not constant but varies significantly with the Ozmidov/Thorpe scale ratio ROT in a fashion similar to that obtained by previous DNS studies. Efficient mixing events with Γ ~ O(1) and ROT ~ O(0.1) tend to be frequently observed in the deep ocean (i.e., weak stratification), while moderate mixing events with Γ ~ O(0.1) and ROT ~ O(1) tend to be observed in the upper ocean (i.e., strong stratification). The observed negative relationship between Γ and ROT is consistent with a simple scaling that can be derived from classical turbulence theories. In contrast, the observed results exhibit no definite relationships between Γ and the buoyancy Reynolds number Reb, although Reb has long been thought to be another key parameter that controls Γ.

Description: This study was supported by MEXT KAKENHI Grant JP15H05824 and JSPS KAKENHI Grant JP15H02131.

Description: 2019-02-15

Description: Our knowledge of clastic, shallow-water sediments over any considerable area of ocean floor is very generalized and leaves much to be desired. The notations concerning the character of the bottom found on all charts are necessarily limited to a descriptive word or two, and although suffcient for navigational purposes, are of little use to the stratigrapher. Of all the marine sediments in the geologic column, those laid down in the neritic zone bulk the largest. They grade slowly into the sediments of the bathyal zone with no sharp line of demarcation. The early oceanographers were more interested in the clays and organic oozes of the deep sea and they added but little information concerning those materials which to the geologist are the most important. From the charts one is apt to obtain the impression that bottom deposits, excepting those of the deep sea, are very patchy in their distribution, and that there is little rhyme or reason in their arrangement. On the other hand the geological text books are apt to make it appear that there is an orderly gradation of sediments from coarse to fine in an offshore direction, and that a sandstone is always an indication of shallow water deposition, with a shale the reverse. Twenhofel has called attention to the role of environment in sedimentation. Like organisms, sediments are the resultants of a long sequence of environmental factors to which they have been exposed: action by currents, wave generated and otherwise, availability of supply and its type, distance from shore, and depth of water, plus their combined effect during times of changing sea level in the past. These factors have operated in the regions of production, during the period of transportation, and at the place of deposition, and the retention of older characteristics further complicates the record. The following study was undertaken with the hope that through a detailed and systematic series of samples not only might something be learned about the characteristics and distribution of the sediments of a particular area, but something also of the environmental factors which govern conditions of sedimentation in a major ocean.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September, 1976

Description: Measurements of horizontal and vertical current by propeller cluster current meters and temperature by thermistors mounted on a rigid array 8 m high and 20 m long moored in the oceanic main thermocline near Bermuda are interpreted in terms of thermocline-trapped internal wave modes in the presence of temperature and density fine-structure. Two turning-point uniformly valid asymptotic solutions to the internal wave equation are developed to describe the wave functions. Mode decay beyond the turning point in depth or frequency produces a sharp cutoff in vertical current spectra above the local buoyancy frequency N(z). An internal wave wavenumber-frequency spectral model Ε(α,ω) = E(ω/No)-2 (α./α0)-2 describes vertical current spectra and potential energy to horizontal kinetic energy ratios. The red wavenumer shape suppresses peaks in both these quantities at frequencies near N(z). The data are consistent with time-averaged horizontal isotropy of the wave field. A dip in the vertical current spectra at 0.5 cph not predicted by the model appears related to the bottom slope. Temperature fine-structure is modeled as a passive vertical field advected by internal waves. Quasi-permanent fine-scale features of the stratification and vertically small-scale internal waves are indistinguishable in this study. The model of McKean (1974) is generalized to include fine-structure fields specified by their vertical wavenumber spectra as well as different Poisson-distributed layer models. Together with the trapped internal wave model, moored temperature spectra, temperature vertical difference spectra, and coherence over vertical separations are described using a fine-structure vertical wavenumber spectrum PT(k) =ATk-5/2 which agrees with other spectra made using vertical profiling instruments in the range 0.1 to 1.0 cpm. Horizontal current fine-structure is also modeled as a passive field advected vertically by long internal waves. The model describes moored horizontal current spectra (least successfully at frequencies near N(z)) and finite-difference vertical shear spectra. Contours of temperature in depth versus time indicate possible mixing events. These events appear concurrently with high shear and Richardson numbers O. 25≤ R ≤ 1.0. Over 7 m a cutoff in Ri at 0.25 is observed, indicating saturation of the internal wave spectrum. Spectra of finite-difference approximations to shear and buoyancy frequency are dominated by fine-structure contributions over nearly the whole internal wave range, suggesting that breaking is enhanced by fine-structure. Breaking appears equally likely at all frequencies in the internal wave range.

Description: This research was supported by Office of Naval Research contract N00014-67-0204-0047 and continuation contract NOOOl4-75-C-0291.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September, 2005

Description: This thesis evaluates the nature and magnitude of tropical climate variability from the Last Glacial Maximum to the present. The temporal variability of two specific tropical climate phenomena is examined. The first is the position of the Intertropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) in the Atlantic basin, which affects sea surface temperature (SST) and precipitation patterns throughout the tropical Atlantic. The second is the strength of the Indian Monsoon, an important component of both tropical and global climate. Long-term variations in the position of the ITCZ in the Atlantic region are determined using both organic geochemical techniques and climate modeling. Upwelling in Cariaco Basin is reconstructed using chlorin steryl esters as proxies for phytoplankton community structure. We find that the diatom population was larger during the Younger Dryas cold event, indicating that upwelling was enhanced and the mean position of the ITCZ was farther south during the Younger Dryas than it is today. A climate simulation using an ocean-atmosphere general circulation model confirms these results by demonstrating that the ITCZ shifts southward in response to high-latitude cooling. The climate of the Arabian Sea region is dominated by the Indian Monsoon. Results from modem sediments from a suite of cores located throughout the Arabian Sea suggest that wind strength is well represented by the accumulation rate and carbon isotopic composition of terrestrially-derived plant waxes in sediments. Arabian Sea SST patterns, reconstructed from a suite of sediment cores representing four time slices utilizing the Mg/Ca SST proxy, suggest that both the summer and winter monsoons were enhanced 8,000 yr BP relative to today while the summer monsoon was weaker and the winter monsoon stronger at 15,000 and 20,000 yr. These results are confirmed by a time-series reconstruction of SST on the Oman Margin that reveals that SST at this site is sensitive to both regional and global climate processes. The results of this thesis demonstrate that tropical climate, as evaluated by a number of different proxies as well as climate models, has varied substantially over the past 20,000 years and is closely coupled to climate at high-latitudes.

Description: This work was funded by the National Science Foundation (OCE02-20776 and OCE0334598 to D. Oppo), a Schlanger Ocean Drilling Program Fellowship, a WHOI Watson Fellowship, and a Fye Teaching Fellowship.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution May 1982

Description: Velocity and temperature time series from Hudson Submarine Canyon and hydrographic surveys of seven canyons of the Middle Atlantic Bight indicate that the effects of storms, tides, and incoming internal waves are intensified in submarine canyons. Storms with strong eastward and westward wind stress were found to cause strong upwelling and downwelling through the upper layers of Hudson Canyon. Storm-forced upwelling also caused strong down-canyon flows at the canyon floor. Internal waves were found to be concentrated in the canyon head and near the floor, in agreement with theoretical predictions. Slope water apparently circulates slowly through the outer part of the canyon and is mixed in near-floor layers which could be caused by breaking internal waves. Internal tides are generated at the floor in the central part of the canyon. Oscillations at tidal frequencies dominate the near-floor velocity field below the thermocline, and are accompanied by high-frequency spikes that may be nonlinear interface waves propagating on the top of the bottom mixed layer. A numerical model was used to calculate mixing in the canyon's bottom boundary layer caused by an unstable density gradient during flood tide. Energetic internal wave activity is apparently responsible for sediment sorting in the canyon head; the internal waves become more energetic as the sediment grain size increases. Below the thermocline, the tidal oscillations vary in amplitude with the phases of the moon; the observed deposition of mud can easily occur during weeks of low velocity.

Description: Foundation graduate fellowship and by the Office of Naval Research under Contracts N00014-75-C-029l and N00014-80-C-0273.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution January 1983

Description: Isotope studies of nitrogen and carbon were undertaken to investigate the fate of particulate organic matter (POM) during its residence in the water column and after deposition on the seafloor. The processes focused on were water-column transformations and sedimentary diagenesis. Sampling sites were chosen to provide POM subject to different specific mineralization processes (nitrification, denitrification, and sulfate reduction), different lengths of water column (duration of the mineralization process), and differences in the size of the organic-matter flux. The δl5N and δ13C of plankton, POM, and sediments from several oceanic sites were related to biological and hydrographic processes identified from nutrient, temperature, and salinity profiles. This was done to determine what effect these processes have on the δ15N of POM. Four stations were studied in the upwelling area off the coast of Peru and one station was studied in the Gulf of Maine. Important factors controlling the δ15N of plankton appear to be the concentration and δl5N of nitrate in the surface waters, and the relative zooplankton and phytoplankton abundances. Plankton from the Peru Upwelling Area are enriched in 15N as compared to plankton from other parts of the world's oceans where denitrification is absent. This enrichment may be due to the assimilation of 15N-enriched nitrate, produced by the selective reduction of 14N during denitrification. Zooplankton are 3 to 4% enriched in 15N as compared with phytoplankton. Production of 14N -enriched fecal pellets is suggested as a mechanism for this trophic enrichment. In the surface waters, the δl5N of POM is similar to that of plankton. In the Peru Upwelling Area, the δ15N of POM from the oxygen-deficient waters decreases with increasing depth. In the Gulf of Maine, below the euphotic zone in the oxic deep waters, the δ15N of POM increases with increasing depth. The difference in isotopic alteration may be due to the effect of different redox conditions on the mechanism and sequence by which specific organic nitrogen compounds, variably enriched in 15M, undergo degradation. Furthermore, bacterial growth on nitrogen-poor particles in the deep waters of the Peru Upwelling Area may contribute to the low δ15N of POM. In contrast to the large range in δ15N (-2 to +17%) of the POM, the range of δ15N in the sediments is small (+5 to +9%). Within a core, the average variation in δ15N was only 1.8%. Temporal variability in the δ15N of sedimenting POM and benthic activity appear to be important in determining the δ15N of the sediments. The large changes in POM concentration and isotope content at the sediment/water interface as compared with the more constant values found down-core, suggest that processes occuring at the sediment/water interface are critical, although bioturbation may also be important in determining the δ15N of oxic sediments. If diagenesis causes a significant loss of organic matter, profiles of organic carbon and nitrogen contents should show decreases with increasing depth and C/N ratios should increase with increasing depth (Reimers, 1981). Since none of the sedimentary profiles exhibited such trends, it is concluded that diagenesis was insufficient to erase the percent carbon, nitrogen and C/N ratio signatures generated by the POM flux and alterations at the sediment/water interface. Temporal variability in the δ15N of bottom-water POM may be caused by changes in deep-water currents which transport POM horizontally and to changes in bacterial and possibly other biological activity in the water column. This thesis work suggests that δ15N may be a useful tool in studying the geochemistry of POM in the marine environment. In addition, this research has shown that interpretation of the sedimentary 15N record must include consideration of isotopic alteration associated with bacterial remineralization of POM and benthic activity.

Description: Funds for this research were provided by the Massachusetts Institute of Technology / Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Joint Program in Oceanography, the National Science Foundation under Grant No. OCE-8024442, and the Andrew W. Mellon Foundation through the Center for Coastal Research of the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution January 1987

Description: Garrett and Munk use linear dynamics to synthesize frequency-wavenumber energy spectra for internal waves (GM72, GM75, GM79). The GM internal wave models are horizontally isotropic, vertically symmetric, purely propagating, and universal in both time and space. This set of properties effectively eliminates all the interesting physics, since such models do not allow localized sources and sinks of energy. Thus an important step in understanding internal wave dynamics is to make measurements of deviations from the simple GM models. This thesis continues the search for deviations from the GM models. It has three advantages over earlier work: extensive data from an equatorial region, long time series (2 years), and relatively sophisticated linear internal wave models. Since the GM models are based on mid-latitude data, having data from an equatorial region which has a strong mean current system offers an opportunity to examine a region with a distinctly different basic state. The longer time series mean there is a larger statistical ensemble of realizations, making it possible to detect smaller internal wave signals. The internal wave models include several important extensions to the GM models: horizontal anisotropy and vertical asymmetry, resolution between standing modes and propagating waves, general vertical structure, and kinematic effects of mean shear flow. Also investigated are the effects of scattering on internal waves, effects that are especially strong on the equator because the buoyancy frequency variability is a factor of ten higher than at mid-latitudes. In the high frequency internal wave field considered (frequencies between .125 cph and .458 cph), several features are found that are not included in the GM models. Both the kinematic effects of a mean shear flow and the phase-locking that distinguishes standing modes from propagating waves are observed. There is a seasonal dependence in energy level of roughly 10% of the mean level. At times the wave field is zonally and vertically asymmetric, with resulting energy fluxes that are a small (4% to 10%) fraction of the maximum energy flux the internal wave field could support. The fluxes are, however, as big as many of the postulated sources of energy for the internal wave field.

Description: This work has been supported under grants from the National Science Foundation and the Office of Naval Research, grants numbered NSF-89076, ONR-88914, NSF-9l002, NSF-94971, and NSF-93661.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2008. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 38 (2008): 1253-1266, doi:10.1175/2007JPO3786.1.

Description: Wind stress and tidal dissipation are the most important sources of mechanical energy for maintaining the oceanic general circulation. The contribution of mechanical energy due to tropical cyclones can be a vitally important factor in regulating the oceanic general circulation and its variability. However, previous estimates of wind stress energy input were based on low-resolution wind stress data in which strong nonlinear events, such as tropical cyclones, were smoothed out. Using a hurricane–ocean coupled model constructed from an axisymmetric hurricane model and a three-layer ocean model, the rate of energy input to the world’s oceans induced by tropical cyclones over the period from 1984 to 2003 was estimated. The energy input is estimated as follows: 1.62 TW to the surface waves and 0.10 TW to the surface currents (including 0.03 TW to the near-inertial motions). The rate of gravitational potential energy increase due to tropical cyclones is 0.05 TW. Both the energy input from tropical cyclones and the increase of gravitational potential energy of the ocean show strong interannual and decadal variability with an increasing rate of 16% over the past 20 years. The annual mean diapycnal upwelling induced by tropical cyclones over the past 20 years is estimated as 39 Sv (Sv ≡ 106 m3 s−1). Owing to tropical cyclones, diapycnal mixing in the upper ocean (below the mixed layer) is greatly enhanced. Within the regimes of strong activity of tropical cyclones, the increase of diapycnal diffusivity is on the order of (1 − 6) × 10−4 m2 s−1. The tropical cyclone–related energy input and diapycnal mixing may play an important role in climate variability, ecology, fishery, and environments.

Description: LLL and WW were supported by the National Basic Research Priorities Programmer of China through Grant 2007CB816004 and National Outstanding Youth Natural Science Foundation of China FIG. 15. Annual-mean vertical diffusivity induced by tropical cyclones from 1984 to 2003 (units: 10 4 m2 s 1): (right) the horizontal distribution and (left) the zonally averaged vertical diffusivity. JUNE 2008 L IU ET AL . 1265 under Grant 40725017. RXH was supported by the W. Alan Clark Chair from Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2010. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology 27 (2010): 1936-1949, doi:10.1175/2010JTECHO772.1.

Description: Four ice-tethered profilers (ITPs), deployed between 2006 and 2009, have provided year-round dissolved oxygen (DO) measurements from the surface mixed layer to 760-m depth under the permanent sea ice cover in the Arctic Ocean. These ITPs drifted with the permanent ice pack and returned 2 one-way profiles per day of temperature, salinity, and DO. Long-term calibration drift of the oxygen sensor can be characterized and removed by referencing to recently calibrated ship DO observations on deep isotherms. Observed changes in the water column time series are due to both drift of the ITP into different water masses and seasonal variability, driven by both physical and biological processes within the water column. Several scientific examples are highlighted that demonstrate the considerable potential for sustained ITP-based DO measurements to better understand the Arctic Ocean circulation patterns and biogeochemical processes beneath the sea ice.

Description: The National Science Foundation Office of Polar Programs Arctic Sciences Section under Awards ARC-0519899, ARC-0856479, and ARC-0806306 provided funding.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2011. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 41 (2011): 2223–2241, doi:10.1175/2011JPO4344.1.

Description: Results are presented from an observational study of stratified, turbulent flow in the bottom boundary layer on the outer southeast Florida shelf. Measurements of momentum and heat fluxes were made using an array of acoustic Doppler velocimeters and fast-response temperature sensors in the bottom 3 m over a rough reef slope. Direct estimates of flux Richardson number Rf confirm previous laboratory, numerical, and observational work, which find mixing efficiency not to be a constant but rather to vary with Frt, Reb, and Rig. These results depart from previous observations in that the highest levels of mixing efficiency occur for Frt 〈 1, suggesting that efficient mixing can also happen in regions of buoyancy-controlled turbulence. Generally, the authors find that turbulence in the reef bottom boundary layer is highly variable in time and modified by near-bed flow, shear, and stratification driven by shoaling internal waves.

Description: Funding was provided by grants from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s National Undersea Research Program, National Science Foundation Grants OCE-0622967 and OCE- 0824972 to SGM, and the Singapore Stanford Program. Kristen Davis was supported by a National Defense Science and Engineering Graduate Fellowship and an ARCS Foundation Fellowship.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 1993

Description: In a shallow water ocean environment, the range-dependent variation of the geoacoustic properties of the seabed is one of the crucial factors affecting sound propagation. Since the local modes of propagation depend on the spatial changes in the bottom sediments, the local eigenvalues of these modes are useful as tools for examining the range dependence of the sediment properties. In order to extract the local eigenvalues from measurements of the pressure field in a laterally inhomogeneous waveguide, the zero-order asymptotic Hankel transform with a short sliding window is utilized. The local peak positions in the output spectra differ from the local eigenvalues due to both the range variation of the local modes and the interference of adjacent modes. The departure due to the former factor is evaluated analytically by using the stationary phase method. In order to reduce the error induced by the latter factor, mode filtering is utilized by incorporating data from a fixed vertical array of receivers. The use of the above zero-order Hankel transform in a three-dimensionally varying waveguide results in an underestimate of the local eigenvalues due to the effect of horizontal refraction. Thus a general asymptotic Hankel transform with a 2-D sliding window is used to correct for the underestimated amount. By expanding the latter transform with respect to the azimuthal angle, it can also be shown that the first term in the Taylor series corresponds to the former transform; the rest of the terms account for the value difference between the underestimated and actual local eigenvalues. In order to obtain the spatial variation of the sediment properties from the rangedependent variation of the extracted local eigenvalues, the analytical relationship between these two variations is derived by using a perturbation method in a horizontally varying, multi-layered bottom model. Upon use of the n2-linear profile in each layer, the relationship can be obtained in closed form. As a result, the range variation of the local eigenvalues may be separated into terms that depend on each geoacoustic parameter. Based on this relation, an inversion method for determining the range-dependent geoacoustic parameters is developed. The methods developed in this thesis are applied to simulated pressure field data as well as experimental field data. It is shown that the evolution with range of the local modes as well as the range-dependent geoacoustic properties can be successfully estimated.

Description: Financial support for my research was provided by the WHOI Education Department and the Office of Naval Research.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution May 1993

Description: The goal of this thesis was to develop and apply an integrated chemical and microbial approach to study the effects of chemical structure on the rates and patterns of carbohydrate degradation by anaerobic marine bacteria. Polysaccharides produced by five species of marine plankton, Dunaliella tertiolecta, Emiliania huxleyi, Stephanopixis palmeri, a Phaeocystis sp., and Synechococcus WH7335, were surveyed using one- and two-dimensional nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (NMR). Two carbohydrates from Synechococcus WH7335 were characterized in detail. Synechococcus produced an α(1,4) glucose polysaccharide with α(1,6) branches, which probably functions as an energy reserve. The nominal molecular weight of the polysaccharide was ~5000 daltons. Large quantities of a glycerolpolysaccharide, which was tentatively identified as a teichoic acid similar in structure to teichoic acids found in cell walls of gram-positive bacteria, were also produced by Synechococcus WH7335. This is the first report of teichoic acids in cyanobacteria. Enrichment of bacteria from anoxic marine sediments on specific carbohydrates yielded reproducible model systems with which to study the degradation of chemically well-defined substrates. Headspace gases (C02, H2, CH4, H2S) were monitored by gas chromatography, and carbohydrate substrates and intermediates were separated and quantified via gel-permeation chromatography and high-pressure liquid chromatography. The transfer of carbon from substrates through to end products was followed quantitatively. Nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy was used to check for selective structural alterations (such as preferential cleavage of specific linkage types or positions) of the substrates. A series of enrichment experiments showed that mixed cultures of marine bacteria distinguish even between small, very closely-related substrates which do not require extracellular hydrolysis prior to uptake. A galactose-β(1,3)-arabinose dimer was degraded at half the rate of seven other similar disaccharides and three larger oligosaccharides. A further series of degradation experiments with polysaccharides (pullulan, laminarin) showed that they are degraded by bacteria at virtually the same rate as structurally related substrates in the molecular weight range of 300-600 daltons. Degradation of the branched glucan and the teichoic acid-type polysaccharide from Synechococcus WH7335 was also very rapid. The time-course of bacterial hydrolysis of pullulan was examined with gel permeation chromatography and NMR to provide the first molecular-level evidence in marine systems of the bacterial extracellular transformation of high molecular weight organic matter to lower molecular weight organic matter. NMR spectra provided evidence that the pullulan was hydrolyzed by pullulanase, an endo-acting extracellular enzyme which preferentially hydrolyzes α(1,6) linkages. This is the first experimental evidence of pullulanase activity among marine mesophilic bacteria. The culture results suggest that enzymatic hydrolysis of macromolecular carbohydrates to transportable pieces is not the slow step in bacterial degradation of at least some types of polysaccharides. The results from the oligosaccharide experiments suggest that certain heteropolysaccharides may not be degraded as quickly. Chemical structure can be more important than molecular weight in determining degradation rates of carbohydrates. Varying rates of organic polymer degradation in anoxic sediments may be largely determined by the sensitivity of bacterial enzymatic and transport systems to structural features.

Description: Funding for this work was provided by a graduate fellowship from the Office of Naval Research, and grants from the WHOI Ocean Ventures Fund and the Department of Energy's Ocean Margins Program (DE-FG02-92ER61428).

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution May 1996

Description: This thesis details two years of research conducted with the guidance and support of three advisors: Dr. J. K. Whelan, Dr. J. S. Seewald and Dr. T. I. Eglinton. Each of the three chapters represents a different, self-contained research project. All of the projects are related to the organic geochemistry of marine sediments, however, this is a fairly encompassing area of study. Chapters 1 and 2 stem from the same experimental study -the use of hydrous-pyrolysis to investigate mechanisms leading to the production of petroleum-related products during kerogen maturation. Chapter 3, on the other hand, utilizes a recently developed technique of isolating and AMS-14C dating individual compounds from complex sedimentary organic mixtures. The samples used in each investigation came from all over the world. The first two chapters utilize ancient marine sediment samples obtained from an outcrop in California (Chpts. 1 and 2) and from a well in Alabama (Chpt. 2). In contrast, recent marine sediment samples were obtained from the Arabian and Black Seas for the third chapter. Several preparative and analytical methods are common to all three studies. Nevertheless, each employ techniques totally unique from one another and from previous investigations. In Chapter 1, for example, X-ray absorption spectroscopy (XANES) is used to determine the speciation of organic sulfur present in kerogen, bitumen, and bulk sediment samples. While Chapter 3 represents the first study in which the 14C ages of individual, known hydrocarbon biomarkers are determined after isolation by Preparative Capillary Gas Chromatography (PCGC). The insights gained by these investigations are discussed in detail in the following chapters. The common thread between the three chapters is that the source of organic matter, the rate at which it is delivered to marine sediments and the depositional environment, all set the stage for kerogen formation and eventual petroleum generation.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August 1995

Description: This thesis investigates the amplitude fluctuation effects in acoustic scattering due to shallow water internal waves. Theoretically, it uses the adiabatic approximation and perturbation methods to statistically evaluate acoustic transmission fluctuations caused by internal waves in the ocean; it also investigates acoustic mode coupling effect due to internal waves. Numerically, this thesis simulates the shallow water internal wave (IW) field using the Garrett-Munk internal wave spectrum model and then evaluates acoustic transmission in the simulated internal wave field with the Kraken normal mode program. Theoretical calculations are also performed using the theory developed in this thesis. Comparisons are made between theory and numerical calculations. The results presented and discussed in this thesis are related to the following issues: coherent and incoherent intensity fluctuations for adiabatic approximation, acoustic mode coupling due to IW's, transmission loss difference between adiabatic and coupled mode methods, and their dependence on range, IW amplitude and frequency.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2014

Description: Observations suggest that during the last deglaciation (roughly 20,000-10,000 years ago) the Earth warmed substantially, global sea level rose approximately 100 meters in response to melting ice sheets and glaciers, and atmospheric concentrations of carbon dioxide increased. This interval may provide an analog for the evolution of future climate. The ocean plays a key role in the modern climate system by storing and transporting heat, salt, and nutrients, but its role during the last deglaciation remains uncertain. Prominent signals of the last deglaciation in the ocean are a gradual warming and a decrease of the seawater oxygen isotope ratio 18O (a signature of melting land ice sheets). These changes do not occur uniformly in the ocean, but propagate like plumes of dye over hundreds and thousands of years, the aggregate results of turbulent advective and diffusive processes. Information about changing temperatures and oxygen isotopes is stored in the shells of benthic organisms recovered in ocean sediment cores. This thesis develops and applies an inverse framework for understanding deglacial oxygen isotope records derived from sediment cores in terms of the Green functions of ocean tracer transport and ocean mixed layer boundary conditions. Singular value decomposition is used to find a solution for global mixed layer tracer concentration histories that is constrained by eight last-deglacial sediment core records and a model of the modern ocean tracer transport. The solution reflects the resolving power of the data, which is highest at model surface locations associated with large rates of volume flux into the deep ocean. The limited data resolution is quantified and rationalized through analyses of simple models. The destruction of information contained in tracers is a generic feature of advective-diffusive systems. Quantifying limitations of tracer records is important for making and understanding inferences about the long-term evolution of the ocean.