ALBERT

Description: We study the quasi-geostrophic merging dynamics of axisymmetric baroclinic vortices to understand how baroclinicity affects merging rates and the development of the nonlinear cascade of enstrophy. The initial vortices are taken to simulate closely the horizontal' and vertical structure of Gulf Stream rings. A quasigeostrophic model is set with a horizontal resolution of 9 km and 6 vertical levels to resolve the mean stratification of the Gulf Stream region. The results show that the baroclinic merging is slower than the purely barotropic process, The merging is shown to occur in two phases: the tirst, which produces clove-shaped vortices and diffusive mixing of vorticity contours; and the second, which consists of the sliding of the remaining vorticity cores with a second diffusive mixing of the intemal vorticity field. Comparison among Nof, Cushman-Roisin, Polvani et al, and Dewar and Killworth merging events indicates a substantial agreement in the kinematics of the DYOCRSS. Parameter sensitivity experiments show that the decrease of the baroclinicity parameter of the system, Γ^2, [defined as Γ^2 = (D^2 fo^2)/ (No^2 H^2)], increases the speed of merging while its increase slows down the merging. However, the halting elfect of baroclinicity (large Γ^2 or small Rossby radii of deformation) reaches a saturation level where the merging becomes insensitive to larger F2 values. Furthermore, we show that a regime of small Γ^2 exists at which the merged baroclinic vortex is unstable (metastable) and breaks again into two new vortices, Thus, in the baroelinic case the range of Γ^2 detemines the stability of the merged vortex. We analyze these results by local energy and vorticity balances, showing that the horizontal divergence of pressure work term [∇ *(pv)] and the relative-vorticity advection term (v * ∇ (∇ ^2 φ) trigger the merging during the first phase. Due to this horizontal redistribution process, a net kinetic to gravitational energy conversion occurs via buoyancy work in the region external to the cores of the vortices. The second phase of merging is dominated by a direct baroclinic conversion of available gravitational energy into kinetic energy, which in tum triggers a horizontal energy redistribution producing the final fusion of the vortex centers. This energy and vorticity analysis supports the hypothesis that merging is an internal mixing process triggered by a horizontal redistribution of kinetic energy.

Description: The work has been financed by a grant from the Progetto Finalizzato "Calcolo Parallelo"

Description: Published

Description: 1618/1637

Description: 4A. Clima e Oceani

Description: JCR Journal

Description: restricted

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements of the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2006

Description: Two years of moored oceanographic and automatic weather station data which span the winter ice seasons of 2001-2003 within Marguerite Bay on the western Antarctic Peninsula (wAP) shelf were collected as part of the Southern Ocean Global Ocean Ecosystems Dynamics program. In order to characterize the ice environment in the region, a novel methodology is developed for determining ice coverage, draft and velocity from moored upward-looking acoustic Doppler current profiler data. A linear momentum balance shows the importance of internal ice stresses in the observed motion of the ice pack. Strong inertial, not tidal, motions were observed in both the sea ice and upper ocean. Estimates of upward diapycnal fluxes of heat and salt from the Upper Circumpolar Deep Water to the surface mixed layer indicate almost no contribution from double diffusive convection. A one-dimensional vertical mixed layer model adapted for investigation of mixing beneath an ice-covered ocean indicates that the initial wind event, rather than subsequent inertial shear, causes the majority of the mixing. This work points towards episodic wind-forced shear at the base of the mixed layer coupled with static instability from brine rejection due to ice production as a major factor in mixing on the wAP shelf.

Description: The work described in this thesis was funded by the National Science Foundation Office of Polar Programs grant # 99-100092. Additional funding came from the MIT Houghton Fund, the WHOI Ocean Venture Fund and the WHOI Education Office.

Description: Submitted to the Department of Mechanical Engineering in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Applied Ocean Sciences at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2007

Description: This thesis introduces an algorithm for inverting for the geoacoustic properties of the seafloor in shallow water. The input data required by the algorithm are estimates of the amplitudes of the normal modes excited by a low-frequency pure-tone sound source, and estimates of the water column sound speed profiles at the source and receiver positions. The algorithm makes use of perturbation results, and computes the small correction to an estimated background profile that is necessary to reproduce the measured mode amplitudes. Range-dependent waveguide properties can be inverted for so long as they vary slowly enough in range that the adiabatic approximation is valid. The thesis also presents an estimator which can be used to obtain the input data for the inversion algorithm from pressure measurements made on a vertical line array (VLA). The estimator is an Extended Kalman Filter (EKF), which treats the mode amplitudes and eigenvalues as state variables. Numerous synthetic and real-data examples of both the inversion algorithm and the EKF estimator are provided. The inversion algorithm is similar to eigenvalue perturbation methods, and the thesis also presents a combination mode amplitude/eigenvalue inversion algorithm, which combines the advantages of the two techniques.

Description: The funding that made this research possible came from the Office of Naval Research, and the WHOI Academic Programs Office.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September, 2005

Description: Minor and trace element records from planktic and benthic foraminifera from Atlantic sediment cores, as well as outputfrom a coupled OA·GCM, were used to investigate the magnitude and distribution of the oceanic response to abrupt Climate events.of the past 20,000 years. The study addressed three major questions: 1) What is the magnitude of high-latitude sea surface temperature and salinity variability during abrupt climate events? 2) Does intermediate depth ventilation change in conjunction with high-latitude climate variability? 3) Are the paleoclimate data consistent with the response of a coupled OAGCM to a freshwater perturbation? To address these questions, analytical methods were implemented for the simultaneous measurement of Mg/Ca, Zn/Ca, Cd/Ca, Mn/Ca and All Ca in foraminiferal samples using inductively-coupled plasma mass spectrometry. Paired records of planktic foraminiferal ()IRO and Mg/Ca from the subpolar North Atlantic reveal trends of increasing temperatures (-3°C) and salinities over the course of the Holocene. The records provide the first evidence of open':'ocean cooling (nearly 2°C) and freshening during the 8.2 kyr event, and suggest similar conditions at 9.3 ka. Benthic foraminiferal Cd/Ca results from an intermediate depth, western South Atlantic core (l,268 ni) are consistent with reduced export into the South Atlantic of North Atlantic Intermediate Water during the Younger Dryas. Paired records. of benthic foraminiferal Mg/Ca and bIRO from two intermediate depth low latitude western Atlantic sites - one from the Florida Current (751 m) and one from the Little Bahama Bank (l,057 m) - provicie insights into the spatial distribution of intermediate depth temperature and sii!.inity variability during" the Younger Dryas. The intermediate depth paleoceanographic temperature and salinity data are consistent with the results of a GFDL R30 freshwater forced model simulation, suggesting that freshwater forcing is a possible driver or amplifier for B011ing-Aller0d to Younger Dryas climate variability. Benthic foraminiferal Cd/Ca results from an intermediate depth Florida Current core (751 m) are consistent with a decrease in the northward penetration of southern source waters within the return flow of the Atlantic meridional overturning circulation (MOC) and an increase in the influence of intermediate depth northern source waters during the Younger Dryas.

Description: This work was funded by a John Lyons Fellowship and a WHOI Ocean and Climate Change Institute Fellowship. Analyses were funded by the Ocean and Climate Change Institute and the following grants from the National Science Foundation: OCE98-86748, OCE02- 20776, OCE96-33499,ATM05-01391, and OCE04-02565.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution March, 1980

Description: The Southern Ocean as defined here is the body of water between the Antarctic Continent and the Antarctic Polar Front, (APF). This ocean is considered important in the global thermodynamic balance of the ocean-atmosphere system because large planetary heat losses are believed to occur at high latitudes. The ocean and atmosphere must transport heat poleward to balance these losses. In the Southern Hemisphere, the oceanic contribution to this flux involves a southward transport of heat across the APF into the Southern Ocean where it is given up to the atmosphere through air-sea interactions. In Part I, the air-sea interactions and structure of the near surface waters of the Southern Ocean are investigated with a three dimensional time dependent numerical model. The surface waters in this region in summer are characterized by a relatively warm surface mixed layer with low salinity. Below this layer, a cold temperature extremum is usually observed in vertical profiles which is believed to be the remnant of a deep surface mixed layer produced in winter. The characteristics of this layer, the surface mixed layer and the observed distribution of wintertime sea ice are reproduced well by this model. Unlike some other sea-ice models the air-sea heat exchange is a free variable. Model estimates of the annual heat loss by the Southern Ocean exhibit the observed meridional variation of heat gained by the ocean along the APF with heat lost further south. The model's area average heat loss is much smaller than that estimated with direct observations. While several model parameterizations were made which could be in error, the model results suggest that the Southern Ocean does give up vast amounts of heat to the atmosphere away from the continental margins. The model results and direct calculations of air-sea exchanges suggest a southward heat flux must occur across the APF. The lateral water mass transition across the front is not discontinuous but occurs over a finite sized zone of fluid which is dominated by intrusive finestructure. The characteristics and dynamics of these features are investigated in Part II to try and assess their importance in the meridional heat budget. Observations made on two cruises to the APF are presented and the space-time scales of the features and thermohaline characteristics are discussed. It is suggested that double diffusive processes dominated by salt fingering are active within the intrusions. An extension of Stern's (1967) model of the stability of a thermohaline front to intrusive finestructure driven by saltfingering where small scale viscous processes are included, is presented to explain why intrusions are observed in frontal zones. The model successfully predicts vertical scales of intrusions observed in the ocean and the observed dependence of the intrusions' slopes across density surfaces on the vertical scale. Since the fastest growing intrusion is not strongly determined by the model, though, it is likely that finite amplitude effects determine the dominant scale of interleaving in the ocean. The analysis predicts that intrusions transport heat, salt and density down the mean gradients of the front. For the APF, this heat flux is poleward which is the direction required by the global heat budget. This model does not describe intrusions at finite amplitude or in steady state and so cannot be used to estimate the magnitude of the poleward heat flux due to intrusions in the APF.

Description: The research reported on here, and my support as a graduate student was provided by the National Science Foundation through grants OCE 75 14056. OCE 76 82036 and OCE 77 28355.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February, 2006

Description: Benthic and planktonic foraminiferal δ18O (δ18Oc) from a suite of well-dated, high-resolution cores spanning the depth and width of the Straits of Florida reveal significant changes in Gulf Stream cross-current density gradient during the last millennium. These data imply that Gulf Stream transport during the Little Ice Age (LIA: 1200-1850 A.D.) was 2-3 Sv lower than today. The timing of reduced flow is consistent with cold conditions in Northern Hemisphere paleoclimate archives, implicating Gulf Stream heat transport in centennial-scale climate variability of the last 1,000 years. The pattern of flow anomalies with depth suggests reduced LIA transport was due to weaker subtropical gyre wind stress curl. The oxygen isotopic composition of Florida Current surface water (δ18O w) near Dry Tortugas increased 0.4% during the course of the Little Ice Age (LIA: ~1200-1850 A.D.), equivalent to a salinity increase of 0.8-1.5 psu. On the Great Bahama Bank, where smface waters are influenced by the North Atlantic subtropical gyre, δ18Ow increased by 0.3% during the last 200 years. Although a portion (~0.1%) of this shift may be an artifact of anthropogenically-driven changes in surface water ΣCO2, the remaining δl8Ow signal implies a 0.4 to 1 psu increase in salinity after 200 yr BP. The simplest explanation of the δ18Ow data is southward migration of the Atlantic Hadley circulation during the LIA. Scaling of the δ18Ow records to salinity using the modern low-latitude δ18Ow-S slope produces an unrealistic reversal in the salinity gradient between the two sites. Only if C180 w is scaled to salinity using a high-latitude δ18Ow-S slope can the records be reconciled. Changes in atmospheric 14C paralleled shifts in Dry Tortugas δ18Ow , suggesting that variable solar irradiance paced centennial-scale Hadley cell migration and changes in Florida Current salinity during the last millennium.

Description: I would also like to thank the National Science Foundation (NSF grant OCE-0096469) and WHOI Academic Programs for supporting this work.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2007.

Description: The water circulation and evolution of water temperature over the inner continental shelf are investigated using observations of water velocity, temperature, density, and bottom pressure; surface gravity waves; wind stress; and heat flux between the ocean and atmosphere during 2001-2007. When waves are small, cross-shelf wind stress is the dominant mechanism driving cross-shelf circulation. The along-shelf wind stress does not drive a substantial cross-shelf circulation. The response to a given wind stress is stronger in summer than winter. The cross-shelf transport in the surface layer during winter agrees with a two-dimensional, unstratified model. During large waves and onshore winds the cross-shelf velocity is nearly vertically uniform, because the wind- and wave-driven shears cancel. During large waves and offshore winds the velocity is strongly vertically sheared because the wind- and wave-driven shears have the same sign. The subtidal, depth-average cross-shelf momentum balance is a combination of geostrophic balance and a coastal set-up and set-down balance driven by the cross-shelf wind stress. The estimated wave radiation stress gradient is also large. The dominant along-shelf momentum balance is between the wind stress and pressure gradient, but the bottom stress, acceleration, Coriolis, Hasselmann wave stress, and nonlinear advection are not negligible. The fluctuating along-shelf pressure gradient is a local sea level response to wind forcing, not a remotely generated pressure gradient. In summer, the water is persistently cooled due to a mean upwelling circulation. The cross-shelf heat flux nearly balances the strong surface heating throughout midsummer, so the water temperature is almost constant. The along-shelf heat flux divergence is apparently small. In winter, the change in water temperature is closer to that expected due to the surface cooling. Heat transport due to surface gravity waves is substantial.

Description: My last three years of thesis work were supported by National Aeronautics and Space Administration Headquarters under the Earth System Science Fellowship Grant NNG04GQ14H, and by WHOI Academic Programs Fellowship Funds. I also benefited from the freedom of a Clare Boothe Luce Fellowship during my first year in the Joint Program, which allowed me more time than is usual to explore different research topics before choosing an advisor. This research was also funded by the National Aeronautics and Space Administration under grant NNG04GL03G and the Ocean Sciences Division of the National Science Foundation under grants OCE-0241292 and OCE-0548961. The Martha's Vineyard Coastal Observatory is partly funded by the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution and the Jewett/EDUC/Harrison Foundation. The ADCP deployments at CBLAST site F were funded by National Science Foundation Small Grant for Exploratory Research OCE-0337892. Ship time for deployment and recovery of the F ADCP was provided by Robert Weller through Office of Naval Research contracts N00014-01-1-0029 and N00014-05-10090 for the Low-Wind Component of the Coupled Boundary Layers Air-Sea Transfer Experiment.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2003

Description: In this thesis I have endeavored to determine the factors and physical processes that controlled SST and thermocline depth at 10°N, 125°W during the Pan American Climate Study (PACS) field program. Analysis based on the PACS data set, TOPEX/Poseidon sea surface height data, European Remote Sensing satellite wind data, and model simulations and experiments reveals that the dominant mechanisms affecting the thermocline depth and SST at the mooring site during the measurement period were local surface fluxes, Ekman pumping, and vertical mixing associated with enhancement of the vertical shear by strong near-inertial waves in the upper ocean superimposed upon intra-seasonal baroclinic Rossby waves and the large scale zonal flow.

Description: This work was funded under NOAA Grant NA17RJ1223 and I also gratefully acknowledge receipt of an MIT Presidential Fellowship in 2000-2001.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution June 2003

Description: Inertial terms dominate the single-gyre ocean model and prevent western-intensification when the viscosity is small. This occurs long before the oceanically-appropriate parameter range. It is demonstrated here that the circulation is controlled if a mechanism for ultimate removal of vorticity exists, even if it is active only in a narrow region near the boundary. Vorticity removal is modeled here as a viscosity enhanced very near the solid boundaries to roughly parameterize missing boundary physics like topographic interaction and three dimensional turbulence over the shelf. This boundary-enhanced viscosity allows western-intensified mean flows even when the inertial boundary width, is much wider than the frictional region because eddies flux vorticity from within the interior streamlines to the frictional region for removal. Using boundary-enhanced viscosity, western-intensified calculations are possible with lower interior viscosity than in previous studies. Interesting behaviors result: a boundary-layer balance novel to the model, calculations with promise for eddy parameterization, eddy-driven gyres rotating opposite the wind, and temporal complexity including basin resonances. I also demonstrate that multiple-gyre calculations have weaker mean circulation than single-gyres with the same viscosity and subtropical forcing. Despite traditional understanding, almost no inter-gyre flux occurs if no-slip boundary conditions are used. The inter-gyre eddy flux is in control only with exactly symmetric gyres and free slip boundaries. Even without the inter-gyre flux, the multiple-gyre circulation is weak because of sinuous instabilities on the jet which are not present in the single-gyre model. These modes efficiently flux vorticity to the boundary and reduce the circulation without an inter-gyre flux, postponing inertial domination to much smaller viscosities. Then sinuous modes in combination with boundary-enhanced viscosity can control the circulation.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2008

Description: The work was motivated by studies of Austin and Lentz (2002) and Pedlosky (2007). The above mentioned works considered two different responses of the stratified flow to a downwelling favorable wind forcing. The first study investigated a time dependent flow with a formation of a constantly expanding relatively well mixed region near the shore and the second considered a steady flow that arises when an offshore varying wind is applied. In my thesis I use ROMS to determine which type of response will take place based on the wind amplitude near the coast. It was demonstrated that if the value of the wind is much smaller than the critical value (determined by the stratification, the rotation rate and the horizontal diffusivity) then the flow is steady (the bbl case) and similar to the one investigated by Pedlosky. If the wind is of the order, or larger than, the critical value then the response is time dependent (the pool case) and similar to the one described by Austin and Lentz. The resulting flow structure of each response was also investigated. I examined the sensitivity of the bbl response to variations in the background vertical diffusivity, the initial stratification and the bottom slope. It was shown that a higher background vertical diffusivity, a higher stratification and a shallower bottom slope correspond to thinner (vertically) and narrower (horizontally) bbl. For the pool case the time dependent structure was also examined, using a number of idealized models. It was shown that the rate of the pool region expansion is a complex function of the local wind stress amplitude and the local depth.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2008

Description: Coupled ocean/atmosphere simulations exhibit systematicwarm biases over the SouthWest African (SWA) coastal region. Recent investigations indicate that coastal ocean dynamics may play an important role in determining the SST patterns, but none of them provide a detailed analysis. In this study, I analyze simulations produced both by coupled models and by idealized models. Then results are interpreted on the basis of a theoretical framework. Finally the conclusion is reached that the insufficient resolution of the ocean component in the coupled model is responsible for the warm biases over the SWA coastal region. The coarse resolution used in the ocean model has an artificially stretched coastal side-wall boundary layer, which induces a smaller upwelling velocity in the boundary layer. The vertical heat transport decreases even when the volume transport is unchanged because of its nonlinear relationship with the magnitude of the upwelling velocity. Based on the scaling of the idealized model simulations, a simplified calculation shows that the vertical heat transport is inversely proportional to the zonal resolution over the coastal region. Therefore, increasing the horizontal resolution can considerably improve the coastal SST simulation, and better resolve the coastal dynamics.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution May 2001

Description: A comparison of monthly biogeochemical measurements made from 1993 to 1995, combined with hydrography and satellite altimetry, was used to observe the impacts of nine eddy events on primary productivity and particle flux in the Sargasso Sea. Measurements of primary production, thorium-234 flux, nitrate+nitrite, and photosynthetic pigments made at the US JGOFS Bermuda Atlantic Time-series Study (BATS) site were used. During the three years of this study, four out of six high thorium- 234 flux events over 1000 dpm/m2/d occurred during the passage of an eddy. Primary production nearly as high as the spring bloom maximum was observed in two modewater eddies (May 1993 and July 1995). The 1994 spring bloom at BATS was suppressed by the passage of an anticyclone. Distinct phytoplankton community shifts were observed in mode-water eddies, which had an increased percentage diatoms and dinoflagelletes, and in cyclones, which had an increased percentage cyanobacteria (excluding Prochlorococcus). The difference in the observations of mode-water eddies and cyclones may result from the age of the eddy, which was very important to the biological response. In general, eddies that were one to two months old elicited a large biological response; eddies that were three months old may show a biological response and were accompanied by high thorium flux measurements; eddies that were four months old or older did not show a biological response or high thorium flux. Our conceptual model depicting the importance of temporal changes during eddy upwelling and decay fit the observations well in all 7 upwelling eddies. Additional information is needed to determine the importance of deeper mixed layers and winter mixing to the magnitude of the eddy impacts. Also, sampling generally captured only the beginning, end, and lor edge of an eddy due to the monthly to semi-monthly frequency of the measurements made at BATS. Lagrangian studies, higher resolution time-series, and/or more spatial coverage is needed to provide additional information for improved C and N budgets in the Sargasso Sea and to complete our understanding of the temporal changes that occur in an eddy.

Description: Funding for this work was provided by NASA and NSF through the JGOFS Synthesis and Modeling Program.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2009

Description: Estimates of natural climate variability during the past millennium provide a frame of reference in which to assess the significance of recent changes. This thesis investigates new methods of reconstructing low-latitude sea surface temperature (SST) and hydrography, and combines these methods with traditional techniques to improve the present understanding of western North Atlantic climate variability. A new strontium/calcium (Sr/Ca) - SST calibration is derived for Atlantic Montastrea corals. This calibration shows that Montastrea Sr/Ca is a promising SST proxy if the effect of coral growth is considered. Further analyses of coral growth using Computed Axial Tomography (CAT) imaging indicate growth in Siderastrea corals varies inversely with SST on interannual timescales. A 440-year reconstruction of low-latitude western North Atlantic SST based on this relationship suggests the largest cooling of the last few centuries occurred from ~1650-1730 A.D., and was ~1ºC cooler than today. Sporadic multidecadal variability in this record is inconsistent with evidence for a persistent 65-80 year North Atlantic SST oscillation. Volcanic and anthropogenic radiative forcing are identified as important sources of externally-forced SST variability, with the latter accounting for most of the 20th century warming trend. An 1800-year reconstruction of SST and hydrography near the Gulf Stream also suggests SSTs remained within about 1ºC of modern values. This cooling is small relative to other regional proxy records and may reflect the influence of internal oceanic and atmospheric circulation. Simulations with an atmospheric general circulation model (AGCM) indicate that the magnitude of cooling estimated by proxy records is consistent with tropical hydrologic proxy records.

Description: Funding for this research was provided by a National Science Foundation Graduate Student Fellowship, National Science Foundation grants OCE-0402728, OCE-0623364, ATM-033746, the WHOI Ocean and Climate Change Institute, the WHOI Ocean Ventures Fund, the WHOI Ocean Life Institute, the MIT Student Assistance Fund, award number USA-0002, made by King Abdullah University of Science and Technology (KAUST), and the Inter-American Institute for Global Change Research.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2010

Description: In the present work, we study the statistics of wavefields obtained from non-linear phase-resolved simulations. The numerical model used to generate the waves models wave-wave interactions based on the fully non-linear Zakharov equations. We vary the simulated wavefield's input spectral properties: directional spreading function, Phillips parameter and peak shape parameter. We then investigate the relationships between a wavefield's input spectral properties and its output physical properties via statistical analysis. We investigate surface elevation distribution, wave definition methods in a nonlinear wavefield with a two-dimensional wavenumber, defined waves' distributions, and the occurrence and spacing of large wave events.

Description: This project was supported by the US Office of Naval Research and the Joint Program between MIT and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August 1984

Description: This thesis addresses several aspects of the problem of determining the effect of the low-frequency eddy variability on the mean circulation of the Western North Atlantic. A framework for this study is first established by scale analysis of the eddy and mean terms in the mean momentum, vorticity, and heat balances in three regions of the Western North Atlantic -- the northern recirculation, the southern recirculation, and the mid-ocean. The data from the last decade of field experiments suggest somewhat different conclusions from the earlier analysis of Harrison (1980). In the momentum balance we confirm that the eddy terms are negligible compared to the lowest order mean geostrophic balance. The eddy term may be an 0(1) term in the vorticity balance only in the northern recirculation region where the mean flow is anisotropic. In the mean heat balance, if the mean temperature advection is scaled using the thermal wind relation, then the eddy heat flux is negligible in the mid-ocean, but it may be important in the recirculation areas. For all the balances the eddy terms are comparable to or an order of magnitude larger than the mean advective terms. We conclude from the scale analysis that the eddy field is most likely to be important in the Gulf Stream recirculation region. These balances are subsequently examined in more detail using data from the Local Dynamics Experiment (LDE). Several inconsistencies are first shown in McWilliams' (1983) model for the mean dynamical balances in the LDE. The sampling uncertainties do not allow us to draw conclusions about the long-term dynamical balances. However, it is shown that if we assume that the linear vorticity balance holds between the surface and the thermocline for a finite record, then the vertical velocity induced by the eddy heat flux divergence is non-zero. The local effect of the mesoscale eddy field on the mean potential vorticity distribution of the Gulf Stream recirculation region is determined from the quasigeostrophic eddy potential vorticity flux. This flux is calculated by finite difference of current and temperature time series from the Local Dynamics Experiment. This long-term array of moorings is the only experimental data from which the complete eddy flux can be calculated. The total eddy flux is dominated by the term due to the time variation in the thickness of isopycnal layers. This thickness flux is an order of magnitude larger than the relative vorticity flux. The total flux is statistically significant and directed 217° T to the southwest with a magnitude of 1.57 x 10 -5 cm/2s. The direction of the eddy flux with respect to the mean large scale potential vorticity gradient from hydrographic data indicates that eddies in this region tend to reduce the mean potential vorticity gradient. The results are qualitatively consistent with numerical model results and with other data from the Gulf Stream recirculation region. We find that the strength of the eddy transfer in the enstrophy cascade is comparable to the source terms in the mean enstrophy balance. The Austauch coefficient for potential vorticity mixing is estimated to be 0(107cm2/sec). An order of magnitude estimate of the enstrophy dissipation due only to the internal wave field shows that other processes must be important in enstrophy dissipation. The measured eddy potential vorticity fluxes are compared to the linear stability model of Gill, Green, and Simmons (1974). An earlier study (Hogg, 1984) has shown agreement between the empirical orthogonal modes of the data and the predicted wavenumbers, growth rates, and phase speeds of the most unstable waves. However, we show substantial disagreement in a comparison of the higher moments the eddy heat and potential vorticity fluxes. Because the critical layer of the model is located near the surface, the model predicts that most of the eddy potential vorticity and eddy heat flux should occur within about 300 meters of the surface. The data show much greater deep eddy heat flux than predicted by the model. It is suggested that the unstable modes in the ocean have a longer vertical scale because of the reduction in the buoyancy frequency near the surface. The evidence for in situ instability is also examined in the decay region of the Gulf Stream from an array of current and temperature recorders. Although there is vertical phase propagation in the empirical orthogonal modes for some of the variables at some of the moorings, there is not much evidence for a strong ongoing process of wave generation.

Description: This research has been conducted under NSF contract numbers OCE 77-19403, ATM 79-21431, and OCE 82-00154.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August 1987

Description: Several problems connected by the theme of thermal forcing are addressed herein. The main topic is the stratification and flow field resulting from imposing a specified heat flux on a fluid that is otherwise confined to a rigid insulating basin. In addition to the traditional eddy viscosity and diffusivity, turbulent processes are also included by a convective overturning adjustment at locations where the local density field is unstable. Two classes of problems are treated. The first is the large scale meridional pattern of a fluid in an annulus. The detailed treatment is carried out in two steps. In the beginning (chapter 2) it is assumed that the fluid is very diffusive, hence, to first approximation no flow field is present. It is found that the convective overturning adjustment changes the character of the stratification in all the regions that are cooled from the top, resulting in a temperature field that is nearly depth independent in the northernmost latitudes. The response to a seasonal cycle in the forcing, and the differences between averaging the results from the end of each season compared to driving the fluid by a mean forcing are analyzed. In particular, the resulting sea surface temperature is warmer in the former procedure. This observation is important in models where the heat flux is sensitive to the gradient of air to sea surface temperatures. The analysis of the problem continues in chapter 5 where the contribution of the flow field is included in the same configuration. The dimensionless parameter controlling the circulation is now the Rayleigh number, which is a measure of the relative importance of gravitational and viscous forces. The effects of the convective overturning adjustment is investigated at different Rayleigh numbers. It is shown that not only is the stratification now always stable, but also that the vigorous vertical mixing reduces the effective Rayleigh number; thereby the flow field is more moderate, the thermocline deepens, and the horizontal surface temperature gradients are weaker. The interior of the fluid is colder compared to cases without convective overturning, and, because the amount of heat in the system is assumed to be fixed, the surface temperature is warmer. The fluid is not only forced by a mean heat flux, or a seasonally varying one, but its behavior under permanent winter and summer conditions is also investigated. A steady state for the experiments where the net heat flux does not vanish is defined as that state where the flow field and temperature structure are not changing with time except for an almost uniform temperature decrease or increase everywhere. It is found that when winter conditions prevail the circulation is very strong, while it is rather weak for continuous summer forcing. In contrast to those results, if a yearly cycle is imposed, the circulation tends to reach a minimum in the winter time and a maximum in the summer. This suggests that, depending on the Rayleigh number, there is a phase leg of several months between the response of the ocean and the imposed forcing. Differences between the two averaging procedures mentioned before are also observed when the flow field is present, especially for large Rayleigh numbers. The circulation is found to be weaker and the sea surface temperature colder in the mean of the seasonal realizations compared to the steady state derived by the mean forcing. As an extension to the numerical results, an analytic model is presented in chapter 4 for a similar annular configuration. The assumed dynamics is a bit different, with a mixed layer on top of a potential vorticity conserving interior. It is demonstrated that the addition of the thermal wind balance to the conservation of potential vorticity in the axially symmetric problem leads to the result that typical fluid trajectories in the interior are straight lines pointing downward going north to south. The passage of information in the system is surprisingly in the opposite sense to the clockwise direction of the flow. A model for water mass formation by buoyancy loss in the absence of a flow field is introduced in chapter 3. The idea behind it is to use the turbulent mixing parameterization to generate chimney-like structures in open water, followed by along-isopycnal advection and diffusion. This model can be applied to many observations of mode water. In particular, in this work it is related to the chimneys observed by the MEDOC Group (1970), and the Levantine Intermediate Water in the Eastern Mediterranean Basin. An analytic prediction of the depth of the water mass is derived and depends on the forcing and initial stratification. It suggests that the depth of shallow mode water like the 18°C water or the Levantine Intermediate Water would not be very sensitive to reasonable changes in atmospheric forcing. Similar conclusions were also reached by Warren (1972) by assuming that the temperature in the thermocline decreases linearly with depth, and by approximating the energy balance in a water column by a Newtonian cooling law.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution June 2010

Description: Observational and modeling techniques are employed to investigate the thermal and inertial upper ocean response to wind and buoyancy forcing in the North Atlantic Ocean. First, the seasonal kinetic energy variability of near-inertial motions observed with a moored profiler is described. Observed wintertime enhancement and surface intensification of near-inertial kinetic energy support previous work suggesting that near-inertial motions are predominantly driven by surface forcing. The wind energy input into surface ocean near-inertial motions is estimated using the Price-Weller- Pinkel (PWP) one-dimensional mixed layer model. A localized depth-integrated model consisting of a wind forcing term and a dissipation parameterization is developed and shown to have skill capturing the seasonal cycle and order of magnitude of the near-inertial kinetic energy. Focusing in on wintertime storm passage, velocity and density records from drifting profiling floats (EM-APEX) and a meteorological spar buoy/tethered profiler system (ASIS/FILIS) deployed in the Gulf Stream in February 2007 as part of the CLIvar MOde water Dynamics Experiment (CLIMODE) were analyzed. Despite large surface heat loss during cold air outbreaks and the drifting nature of the instruments, changes in the upper ocean heat content were found in a mixed layer heat balance to be controlled primarily by the relative advection of temperature associated with the strong vertical shear of the Gulf Stream. Velocity records from the Gulf Stream exhibited energetic near-inertial oscillations with frequency that was shifted below the local resting inertial frequency. This depression of frequency was linked to the presence of the negative vorticity of the background horizontal current shear, implying the potential for near-inertial wave trapping in the Gulf Stream region through the mechanism described by Kunze and Sanford (1984). Three-dimensional PWP model simulations show evidence of near-inertial wave trapping in the Gulf Stream jet, and are used to quantify the resulting mixing and the effect on the stratification in the Eighteen Degree Water formation region.

Description: This work was supported by National Science Foundation grants OCE-0241354 and OCE-0424865, as well as the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution's Ocean and Cli- mate Change Institute. Funding to initiate the McLane Moored Pro ler observations at Line W were provided by grants from the G. Unger Vetlesen Foundation and the Comer Charitable Fund to the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institutions Ocean and Climate Change Institute.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August 1987

Description: This thesis develops a new technique for estimating quasi-homogeneous and quasi-stationary sea surface wave frequency-direction spectra using acoustic tomography. The analysis of acoustic (mode and ray) phase and travel time perturbations due to a rough sea surface is presented. Two canonical waveguides (ideal shallow water and linear squared index of refraction) are used as examples for the mode perturbation. The analysis is used to explain high mode coherence measured in the FRAM N experiment. The forward problem of computing the acoustic phase and travel time perturbation spectra given the surface wave spectrum is solved to first order. An application of the technique to ray phase data taken during the MIZEX '84 experiment is shown. The inverse problems for the homogeneous and quasi-homogel1eous frequency-direction spectrum are introduced. The theory is applied to synthetic data which simulate a fetch-dependent sea. The estimates made agree well with the "actual" (synthetic data) spectrum. The effect of noise in the travel time estimates is studied. The sensitivity of the technique. to the number of rays used in the inversion is investigated and the resolution and variance of the inverse method are addressed.

Description: gratefully acknowledge the financial support of the Office of Naval Research, the General Electric Foundation, and the Ford Foundation.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2010. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 40 (2010): 789-801, doi:10.1175/2009JPO4039.1.

Description: The issue of internal wave–mesoscale eddy interactions is revisited. Previous observational work identified the mesoscale eddy field as a possible source of internal wave energy. Characterization of the coupling as a viscous process provides a smaller horizontal transfer coefficient than previously obtained, with vh 50 m2 s−1 in contrast to νh 200–400 m2 s−1, and a vertical transfer coefficient bounded away from zero, with νυ + (f2/N2)Kh 2.5 ± 0.3 × 10−3 m2 s−1 in contrast to νυ + (f2/N2)Kh = 0 ± 2 × 10−2 m2 s−1. Current meter data from the Local Dynamics Experiment of the PolyMode field program indicate mesoscale eddy–internal wave coupling through horizontal interactions (i) is a significant sink of eddy energy and (ii) plays an O(1) role in the energy budget of the internal wave field.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2008. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 38 (2008): 2556-2574, doi:10.1175/2008JPO3666.1.

Description: Vertical profiles of horizontal velocity obtained during the Mid-Ocean Dynamics Experiment (MODE) provided the first published estimates of the high vertical wavenumber structure of horizontal velocity. The data were interpreted as being representative of the background internal wave field, and thus, despite some evidence of excess downward energy propagation associated with coherent near-inertial features that was interpreted in terms of atmospheric generation, these data provided the basis for a revision to the Garrett and Munk spectral model. These data are reinterpreted through the lens of 30 years of research. Rather than representing the background wave field, atmospheric generation, or even near-inertial wave trapping, the coherent high wavenumber features are characteristic of internal wave capture in a mesoscale strain field. Wave capture represents a generalization of critical layer events for flows lacking the spatial symmetry inherent in a parallel shear flow or isolated vortex.

Description: Salary support for this analysis was provided by Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution bridge support funds.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 1997

Description: In order to constrain the processes controlling the cycles of biogeochemically important gases such as 02 and C02, and thereby infer rates of biological activity in the upper ocean or the uptake of radiatively important "greenhouse" gases, the noble gases are used to characterize and quantify the physical processes affecting the dissolved gases in aquatic environments. The processes of vertical mixing, gas exchange, air injection, and radiative heating are investigated using a 2 year time-series of the noble gases, temperature, and meteorological data from Station S near Bermuda, coupled with a 1- dimensional upper ocean mixing model to simulate the physical processes in the upper ocean. The rate of vertical mixing that best simulates the thermal cycle is 1.1±0.1 x104 m The gas exchange rate required to simulate the data is consistent with the formulation of Wanninkhof (1992) to ± 40%, while the formulation of Liss and Merlivat 1986 must be increased by a factor of 1.7± 0.6. The air injection rate is consistent with the formulation of Monahan and Torgersen (1991) using an air entrainment velocity of 3±1 cm s1. Gas flux from bubbles is dominated on yearly time-scales by larger bubbles that do not dissolve completely, while the bubble flux is dominated by complete dissolution of bubbles in the winter at Bermuda. In order to obtain a high-frequency time-series of the noble gases to better parameterize the gas flux from bubbles, a moorable, sequential noble gas sampler was developed. Preliminary results indicate that the sampler is capable of obtaining the necessary data. Dissolved gas concentrations can be significantly modified by ice formation and melting, and due to the solubility of He and Ne in ice, the noble gases are shown to be unique tracers of these interactions. A three-phase equilibrium partitioning model was constructed to quantify these interactions in perennially ice-covered Lake Fryxell, and this work was extended to oceanic environments. Preliminary surveys indicate that the noble gases may provide useful and unique information about interactions between water and ice.

Description: This work has been supported by the National Science Foundation - OCE 9302812 and DPP 9118363, the Ocean Ventures Fund Ditty Bag Fund and Westcott Fund and the WHOI Education Office.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2011. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 41 (2011): 889–910, doi:10.1175/2010JPO4496.1.

Description: This paper examines interaction between a barotropic point vortex and a steplike topography with a bay-shaped shelf. The interaction is governed by two mechanisms: propagation of topographic Rossby waves and advection by the forcing vortex. Topographic waves are supported by the potential vorticity (PV) jump across the topography and propagate along the step only in one direction, having higher PV on the right. Near one side boundary of the bay, which is in the wave propagation direction and has a narrow shelf, waves are blocked by the boundary, inducing strong out-of-bay transport in the form of detached crests. The wave–boundary interaction as well as out-of-bay transport is strengthened as the minimum shelf width is decreased. The two control mechanisms are related differently in anticyclone- and cyclone-induced interactions. In anticyclone-induced interactions, the PV front deformations are moved in opposite directions by the point vortex and topographic waves; a topographic cyclone forms out of the balance between the two opposing mechanisms and is advected by the forcing vortex into the deep ocean. In cyclone-induced interactions, the PV front deformations are moved in the same direction by the two mechanisms; a topographic cyclone forms out of the wave–boundary interaction but is confined to the coast. Therefore, anticyclonic vortices are more capable of driving water off the topography. The anticyclone-induced transport is enhanced for smaller vortex–step distance or smaller topography when the vortex advection is relatively strong compared to the wave propagation mechanism.

Description: Y. Zhang acknowledges the support of theMIT-WHOI Joint Programin Physical Oceanography, NSF OCE-9901654 and OCE-0451086. J. Pedlosky acknowledges the support of NSF OCE- 9901654 and OCE-0451086.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2011

Description: Remote sensing and in situ observations are used to investigate the ocean response to the Tokar Wind Jet in the Red Sea. The wind jet blows down the pressure gradient through the Tokar Gap on the Sudanese coast, at about 18°N, during the summer monsoon season. It disturbs the prevailing along-sea (southeastward) winds with strong cross-sea (northeastward) winds that can last from days to weeks and reach amplitudes of 20-25 m/s. By comparing scatterometer winds with along-track and gridded sea level anomaly observations, it is shown that an intense dipolar eddy spins up in less than seven days in response to the wind jet. The eddy pair has a horizontal scale of 140 km. Maximum ocean surface velocities can reach 1 m/s and eddy currents extend at least 200 m into the water column. The eddy currents appear to cover the width of the sea, providing a pathway for rapid transport of marine organisms and other drifting material from one coast to the other. Interannual variability in the strength of the dipole is closely matched with variability in the strength of the wind jet. The dipole is observed to be quasi-stationary, although there is some evidence for slow eastward propagation—simulation of the dipole in an idealized high-resolution numerical model suggests that this is the result of self-advection. These and other recent in situ observations in the Red Sea show that the upper ocean currents are dominated by mesoscale eddies rather than by a slow overturning circulation.

Description: This work is supported by Award Nos. USA 00002, KSA 00011 and KSA 00011/02 made by King Abdullah University of Science and Technology (KAUST).

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2011. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Climate 24 (2011): 4844–4858, doi:10.1175/2011JCLI4130.1.

Description: The factors that determine the heat transport and overturning circulation in marginal seas subject to wind forcing and heat loss to the atmosphere are explored using a combination of a high-resolution ocean circulation model and a simple conceptual model. The study is motivated by the exchange between the subpolar North Atlantic Ocean and the Nordic Seas, a region that is of central importance to the oceanic thermohaline circulation. It is shown that mesoscale eddies formed in the marginal sea play a major role in determining the mean meridional heat transport and meridional overturning circulation across the sill. The balance between the oceanic eddy heat flux and atmospheric cooling, as characterized by a nondimensional number, is shown to be the primary factor in determining the properties of the exchange. Results from a series of eddy-resolving primitive equation model calculations for the meridional heat transport, overturning circulation, density of convective waters, and density of exported waters compare well with predictions from the conceptual model over a wide range of parameter space. Scaling and model results indicate that wind effects are small and the mean exchange is primarily buoyancy forced. These results imply that one must accurately resolve or parameterize eddy fluxes in order to properly represent the mean exchange between the North Atlantic and the Nordic Seas, and thus between the Nordic Seas and the atmosphere, in climate models.

Description: This study was supported by the National Science Foundation under Grants OCE-0726339 and OCE-0850416.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution June 2012

Description: Observations from a three-year field program on the inner shelf south of Martha's Vineyard, MA and a numerical model are used to describe the effect of stratification on inner shelf circulation, transport, and sediment resuspension height. Thermal stratification above the bottom mixed layer is shown to cap the height to which sediment is resuspended. Stratification increases the transport driven by cross-shelf wind stresses, and this effect is larger in the response to offshore winds than onshore winds. However, a one-dimensional view of the dynamics is not sufficient to explain the relationship between circulation and stratification. An idealized, cross-shelf transect in a numerical model (ROMS) is used to isolate the effects of stratification, wind stress magnitude, surface heat flux, cross-shelf density gradient, and wind direction on the inner shelf response to the cross-shelf component of the wind stress. In well mixed and weakly stratified conditions, the cross-shelf density gradient can be used to predict the transport efficiency of the cross-shelf wind stress. In stratified conditions, the presence of an along-shelf wind stress component makes the inner shelf response to cross-shelf wind stress strongly asymmetric.

Description: This work was supported through National Science Foundation grant no. OCE-0548961, the WHOI Academic Programs Office, and the WHOI Coastal Ocean Institute.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Ocean Engineer at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August 1989

Description: When ocean waves in deep water interact with a current, the direction of propagation and characteristics of the waves such as height and length are affected. Swell in the open ocean can undergo significant refraction as it passes through major current systems like the Gulf Stream or Antarctic Circumpolar Current. Remote sensing techniques such as synthetic aperture radars (SAR) have the potential to detect wave systems over a wide geographical area. Combining a model for wave refraction in the presence of currents with SAR measurements, the inverse problem of using the measured wave data can be solved to determine the direction and magnitude of the intervening currents. In this study the behavior of swell measured by SAR on a satellite pass over the Gulf Stream is examined. The refraction predicted by a numerical model under conditions of varying current profiles and velocities is compared to SAR generated wave spectra. By matching the current profile which results in the best correlation of wave refraction to the SAR data, the tomographic problem of measuring the Gulf Stream current is solved. The best correlation between the model and SAR data is obtained when a current is modeled by a top hat velocity profile with a direction of 75° and a current speed of 2 m/s. The direction agrees with that visually observed from the SAR images, and the direction and speeds are close to the Coast Guard estimates for the Gulf Stream at the time of the SEASAT,pass. The current profiles used did not take into account a possible widening of the Gulf Stream at the position of the satellite overpass. There is a great deal of scatter in the SAR data, both before and in the Gulf Stream, so it is difficult to correlate every point with specific current behavior, but the increase in wave length and change in wave angle in the center of the Gulf Stream seem to indicate that there may be a non-uniform feature such as the formation of an eddy or other lateral variability near the current's edge.

Description: I was supported by the U. S. Navy.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 1990

Description: An acoustic tomography experiment consisting of a source near Hawaii and seven receivers along the west coast of North America was conducted from November 1987 to May 1988 and from February 1989 to July 1989. In this thesis, the acoustic ray travel times are analyzed in order to investigate inter-annual basin-scale thermal variability. These thermal fluctuations may help detect any greenhouse warming and greater understanding of them will increase knowledge of ocean-atmosphere interactions which affect weather and climate. A discussion of the program for finding the travel times is included along with a comparison of two methods of measuring travel times.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution June 1990

Description: A recently developed technique for determining past sea surface temperatures (SST), based on an analysis of the unsaturation ratio of long chain C37 methyl alkenones (Uk37) produced by Prymnesiophyceae phytoplankton, has been applied to late Quaternary sediment cores. Previous studies have shown that the Uk37 ratio of these alkenones is linearly proportional to the sea-water temperature in which the plankton grow, both in culture and water column samples. Furthermore, a reasonable correlation has been found between open ocean paleo-SST estimates based on Uk37 values and those derived from δ180, for the period spanning approximately the last 100,000 years (Brassell, 1986b). These results indicate this technique has potential for determining paleo-SST from analysis of alkenones extracted from marine sediments. In order to apply the Uk37 method quantitatively, it is necessary to calibrate the method for sediment samples, and to assess how well the alkenones maintain their temperature signal under some common conditions of sediment deposition and sample handling. It is also necessary to determine the method's usefulness downcore, that is, back in time, by comparing it to established methods. This study examined the effect on Uk37 of conditions that cause dissolution of carbonates in the sediment, and methods of storage and 'sample handling. These are two problems that must be resolved before the method can be applied rigorously and quantitatively to sediments for paleotemperature estimations. A comparison of duplicate samples collected and stored frozen versus those stored at room temperature for up to four years showed no resolvable differences in Uk37. Laboratory experiments of carbonate dissolution indicated there is no effect on Uk37 values under the acidic conditions that dissolve carbonates. Initial field results support this, but indicate more studies are necessary. The Uk37 "thermometer" was calibrated by analyzing Uk37 in coretops from widely varying open ocean sites. Sediment values of Uk37 reflected overlying SST for the appropriate season of the phytoplankton bloom, which for this study was assumed to be summer in high latitudes. These results fall on the same regression line for culture and water column samples derived by Prahl and Wakeham (1987), indicating that their equation (Uk37 = 0.033 T + 0.043) is suitable for use in converting Uk37 values in sediments to overlying SST for the season of coccolith bloom. Using this calibration for sediments, the Uk37 paleotemperature method can be quantitatively applied down core to open ocean sediments. In the Equatorial Atlantic, Uk37 temperature estimates were compared to those obtained from δ18O of the planktonic foraminifer Globigerinoides sacculifer, and planktonic foraminiferal assemblages for the last glacial cycle. The alkenone method showed ~1.56°C cooling at the last glacial maximum. This is about half the decrease shown by both the isotopic method ( ~3.40°C) and foraminiferal assemblages (~3.75°C), implying that, if Uk37 estimates are correct, SST in the equatorial Atlantic was only reduced slightly in the last glaciation. In the Northeast Atlantic, Uk37 temperature estimates show a profile downcore which is similar to the estimates from foram assemblages but with a constant offset toward warmer values throughout the core. Uk37 SST estimates are substantially warmer than foraminiferal estimates at all times, which may indicate inaccuracy in Uk37 temperatures at this site. Uk37 indicates a SST of 12°C for the late glacial and 18°C for the Recent, whereas assemblages give estimates of 9°C and 13°C, respectively. At 12,700 yrs BP, the Uk37 and foram assemblage methods indicate a 2°C warming. A temperature change of 2°C can account for only 0.44°/oo of the observed 1.2°/oo δ18O signal, indicating that the additional 0.8°/oo change in δ18O must result from changes in surface salinity most likely due to a meltwater lid. Uk37 estimates show the major temperature shift from glacial to interglacial temperatures occured at about 9,000 yrs BP disagreeing with assemblage data which shows the shift to Holocene values at about 12,700 yrs BP. If Uk37 temperature estimates are accurate, this disagreement may reflect differing habitats of flora and fauna under the unusual sea surface conditions in this area during the deglaciation.

Description: Primary financial support for this research came from the Ocean Ventures Fund (grant 25/ 85.08), without which this project would not have been possible. Funding supporting the labs of John Farrington (OCE 88-11409) and Lloyd Keigwin (OCE 83-08893 and ATM 84-14335) in which I worked also provided funding for part for this research.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 1996

Description: This thesis addresses the question of how a highly energetic eddy field could be generated in the interior of the ocean away from the swift boundary currents. The energy radiation due to the temporal growth of non-trapped (radiating) disturbances in such a boundary current is thought to be one of the main sources for the described variability. The problem of stability of an energetic current, such as the Gulf Stream, is formulated. The study then focuses on the ability of the current to support radiating instabilities capable of significant penetration into the far-field and their development with time. The conventional model of the Gulf Stream as a zonal current is extended to allow the jet axis to make an angle to a latitude circle. The linear stability of such a nonzonal flow, uniform in the along-jet direction on a beta-plane, is first studied. The stability computations are performed for piece-wise constant and continuous velocity profiles. New stability properties of nonzonal jets are discussed. In particular, the destabilizing effect of the meridional tilt of the jet axis is demonstrated. The radiating properties of nonzonal currents are found to be very different from those of zonal currents. In particular, purely zonal flows do not support radiating instabilities, whereas flows with a meridional component are capable of radiating long and slowly growing waves. The nonlinear terms are then included in the consideration and the effects of the nonlinear interactions on the radiating properties of the solution are studied in detail. For these purposes, the efficient numerical code for solving equation for the QG potential vorticity with open boundary conditions of Orlanski's type is constructed. The results show that even fast growing linear solutions, which are trapped during the linear stage of developement, can radiate energy in the nonlinear regime if the basic current is nonzonal. The radiation starts as soon as the initial fast exponential growth significantly slows. The initial trapping of those solutions is caused by their fast temporal growth. The new mechanism for radiation is related to the nonzonality of a current.

Description: This work was supported by NSF Grant OCE 9301845.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution January 1996

Description: Acoustic propagation in the ocean can be strongly affected by small random variations in ocean properties, including rough surfaces and volume fluctuations in the ocean or seabed. Such inhomogeneities scatter part of the incident acoustic field, stripping energy from the coherent part of the field. This scattered energy, or reverberation, propagates further in the modes of the ocean waveguide. The distribution of energy among modes is changed and the coherence of the acoustic field is reduced. This thesis introduces several models which describe scattering of low-frequency sound. First, the rough surface scattering theory of Kuperman and Schmidt is reformulated in terms of normal modes. Scattering from rough fluid-fluid interfaces and rough elastic halfspaces is modeled, and statistics of the acoustic field are calculated. Numerical results show the modal formulation agrees well with Kuperman and Schmidt's model, while reducing computation times by several orders of magnitude for the scenarios considered. Next, a perturbation theory describing scattering from sound speed and density fluctuations in acoustic media is developed. The theory is used to find the scattered field generated by volume fluctuations in sediment bottoms. Modal attenuations due to sediment volume scattering are calculated, and agreement is demonstrated with previous work. The surface and volume scattering theories are implemented in a unified modal reverberation code and used to study bottom scattering in shallow water. Numerical examples are used to demonstrate the relationship between volume and surface scattering. Energy distribution among scattered field modes is found to be a complicated function of the scattering mechanism, the scatterer statistics, and the acoustic environment. In particular, the bottom properties strongly influence the coherence of the acoustic field. Examples show that excitation of fluid-elastic interface waves is a potentially important scattering path. Cross-modal coherences are calculated and used to study the loss of signal coherence with range. Finally, earlier work on scattering from the Arctic ice sheet is extended. Simulations of long-range transmissions are compared with data from the April 1994 trans-Arctic propagation test. The results show modal attenuations and group speeds can be predicted reasonably well, indicating that acoustic monitoring of Arctic climate is feasible.

Description: I am extremely grateful for the financial support of the Office of Naval Research, under contracts N00014-92-J -1282 and N00014-95-1-0307.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2013

Description: Studying oceanic eddies is important for understanding and predicting ocean circulation and climate variability. The central focus of this dissertation is the energy exchange between eddies and mean flow and banded structures in the low-frequency component of the eddy field. A combination of a realistic eddy-permitting ocean state estimate and simplified theoretical models is used to address the following specific questions. (1) What are the major spatial characteristics of eddy-mean flow interaction from an energy perspective? Is eddy-mean flow interaction a local process in most ocean regions? (2) The banded structures in the low-frequency eddy field are termed striations. How much oceanic variability is associated with striations? How does the time-mean circulation, for example a subtropical gyre or constant mean flow, influence the origin and characteristics of striations? How much do striations contribute to the energy budget and tracer mixing?

Description: This research was supported by the National Aeronautics and Space Administration contracts NNX09AI87G and NNX08AR33G.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2013. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 43 (2013): 283–300, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-11-0240.1.

Description: Motivated by the recent interest in ocean energetics, the widespread use of horizontal eddy viscosity in models, and the promise of high horizontal resolution data from the planned wide-swath satellite altimeter, this paper explores the impacts of horizontal eddy viscosity and horizontal grid resolution on geostrophic turbulence, with a particular focus on spectral kinetic energy fluxes Π(K) computed in the isotropic wavenumber (K) domain. The paper utilizes idealized two-layer quasigeostrophic (QG) models, realistic high-resolution ocean general circulation models, and present-generation gridded satellite altimeter data. Adding horizontal eddy viscosity to the QG model results in a forward cascade at smaller scales, in apparent agreement with results from present-generation altimetry. Eddy viscosity is taken to roughly represent coupling of mesoscale eddies to internal waves or to submesoscale eddies. Filtering the output of either the QG or realistic models before computing Π(K) also greatly increases the forward cascade. Such filtering mimics the smoothing inherent in the construction of present-generation gridded altimeter data. It is therefore difficult to say whether the forward cascades seen in present-generation altimeter data are due to real physics (represented here by eddy viscosity) or to insufficient horizontal resolution. The inverse cascade at larger scales remains in the models even after filtering, suggesting that its existence in the models and in altimeter data is robust. However, the magnitude of the inverse cascade is affected by filtering, suggesting that the wide-swath altimeter will allow a more accurate determination of the inverse cascade at larger scales as well as providing important constraints on smaller-scale dynamics.

Description: BKA received support from Office of Naval Research Grant N00014-11-1-0487, National Science Foundation (NSF) Grants OCE-0924481 and OCE- 09607820, and University of Michigan startup funds. KLP acknowledges support from Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution bridge support funds. RBS acknowledges support from NSF grants OCE-0960834 and OCE-0851457, a contract with the National Oceanography Centre, Southampton, and a NASA subcontract to Boston University. JFS and JGR were supported by the projects ‘‘Global and remote littoral forcing in global ocean models’’ and ‘‘Agesotrophic vorticity dynamics of the ocean,’’ respectively, both sponsored by the Office of Naval Research under program element 601153N.

Description: 2013-08-01

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution June 1993

Description: There is a growing consensus that the sound generated by breaking waves is responsible for much of the ambient noise level in the ocean. While numerous field measurements have shown a strong correlation between the ambient noise spectrum level (N) in the range 100Hz to 25kHz and wind speed in the ocean, very little has been done to establish a comparable correlation between the ambient noise spectrum level and surface wave field parameters. The difficulty in establishing this relationship is remarkable given that the frequency and intensity of wave breaking are dependent on the characteristics of the wave field. In Fall 1991, an experiment was conducted from the research platform Flip 130 kilometers off the coast of Oregon, where the ambient noise between 2.5 and 25 kHz, the wind speed, and the sea surface elevation using wire wave gauges were measured. The correlation between N and the root mean square wave amplitude a was found to be poor but could be improved if the swell was filtered out from the wave elevation time series. The influence of swell on the value of a was disproportionate to the level of ambient noise since its characteristics were not directly due to the local wind-wave conditions. Observations of the dependence of the high frequency wind waves and the directional wave spectrum under turning winds suggested that the high frequency wave components responded more quickly to changes in the wind speed and wind direction than the energy-containing frequencies. The ambient noise level also correlated well with the root mean square wave slopes. This is consistent with previous laboratory measurements which showed that the steepness of a packet of waves correlates with the strength of wave breaking and with characteristics of breaking waves such as loss of momentum flux, dissipation, initial volume of air entrained, mixing, and sound generation. Comparisons of surface wave dissipation estimates using field measurements and models developed by Phillips (1985) and Hasselmann (1974) show that although the two models have very different forms, they give values that are comparable in magnitude. The relationship between the ambient noise level and log of dissipation give correlation coefficients (0.93-0.95) that are comparable to those between ambient noise and wind speed. The mean square acoustic pressure was shown to vary with the dissipation, with p2 ∝ D0.6-0.8. The results suggest that measurements of ambient sound may prove to be useful in inferring surface wave dissipation.

Description: Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2013. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 118 (2013): 762–773, doi:10.1002/jgrc.20081.

Description: Laboratory experiments are conducted to investigate the interactions of self-propagating barotropic cyclones and baroclinic anticyclones with an island. Results are interpreted in the context of observations around Okinawa Island, Japan, where ubiquitous arrivals of cyclones and anticyclones on the southeastern side of the island influence the flow around it, thereby impacting both the Ryukyu Current's and the Kuroshio's transport. In the laboratory, baroclinic anticyclones generate a buoyant current that flows clockwise around an island whereas barotropic cyclones generate a counterclockwise current. In both cases, the interaction is governed by conservation of circulation Γ around the island, which establishes a balance between the dissipation along the island in contact with the eddy and the dissipation along the island in contact with the generated current. Laboratory results and scaling analysis suggest that the interaction between an anticyclone (cyclone) and Okinawa Island should result in an instantaneous increase (decrease) of the Ryukyu Current transport and a delayed increase (decrease) of the Kuroshio transport. The estimated delays are in good agreement with those obtained with field measurements suggesting that the dynamics at play in the laboratory may be relevant for the flow around Okinawa Island.

Description: M.A.was supported by the Postdoctoral Scholar Program at the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, with funding provided by the Ocean and Climate Change Institute and by the Penzance Endowed Fund in Support of Assistant Scientists.

Description: 2013-08-13

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2013

Description: Between 2002 and 2011 a single mooring was maintained in the core of the Pacific Water boundary current in the Alaskan Beaufort Sea near 152° W. Using velocity and hydrographic data from six year-long deployments during this time period, we examine the interannual variability of the current. It is found that the volume, heat, and freshwater transport have all decreased drastically over the decade, by more than 80%. The most striking changes have occurred during the summer months. Using a combination of weather station data, atmospheric reanalysis fields, and concurrent shipboard and mooring data from the Chukchi Sea, we investigate the physical drivers responsible for these changes. It is demonstrated that an increase in summertime easterly winds along the Beaufort slope is the primary reason for the drop in transport. The intensification of the local winds has in turn been driven by a strengthening of the summer Beaufort High in conjunction with a deepening of the summer Aleutian Low. Since the fluxes of mass, heat, and freshwater through Bering Strait have increased over the same time period, this raises the question as to the fate of the Pacific water during recent years and its impacts. We present evidence that more heat has been fluxed directly into the interior basin from Barrow Canyon rather than entering the Beaufort shelfbreak jet, and this is responsible for a significant portion of the increased ice melt in the Pacific sector of the Arctic Ocean.

Description: The majority of the data for this project was funded by grant # ARC-0856244 from the O ce of Polar Programs of the National Science Foundation. My time at WHOI was funded by the United States Navy, the National Science Foundation Graduate Research Fellowship Program and the WHOI Academic Programs O ffice.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2017

Description: The daily heating of the ocean by the sun can create a stably stratified near-surface layer when the winds are slight and solar insolation is strong. This type of shallow stable layer is called a Diurnal Warm Layer (DWL). This thesis examines the physics and dynamics of DWLs from observations of the subtropical North Atlantic Ocean associated with the Salinity Processes in the Upper ocean Regional Study (SPURS-I). Momentum transferred from the atmosphere to the ocean through wind stress becomes trapped within the DWL, generating shear across the layer. During SPURS-I, strong diurnal shear across the DWL was coincident with enhanced turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) dissipation (𝜖, 𝜖 〉 10−5 W/kg) observed from glider microstructure profiles of the near-surface. However, a scale analysis demonstrated that surface forcing, including diurnal shear, could not be the sole mechanism for the enhanced TKE dissipation. High-frequency internal waves (𝜔 ≫ 𝑓) were observed in the upper ocean during the daytime within the DWL. Internal waves are able to transfer energy from the deep ocean into the DWL through the unstratified remnant mixed layer, which is the intervening layer between the DWL and seasonal thermocline. As the strength of the stratification of the DWL increases, so does the shear caused by the tunneling internal waves. The analysis demonstrates that internal waves can generate strong enough shear to cause a shear-induced instability, and are a plausible source of the observed enhanced TKE dissipation. Vertically-varying horizontal transport across the upper ocean occurs because a diurnal current exists within the DWL, but not in the unstratified remnant mixed layer below. Therefore, when a DWL is present, the water within DWL is horizontally transported a different distance than the water below. Coupled with nocturnal convection that mixes the DWL with the unstratified layer at night, this cycle is a mechanism for submesoscale (1-10 km) lateral diffusion across the upper ocean. Estimates of a horizontal diffusion coefficient are similar in magnitude to current estimates of submesoscale diffusion based on observations, and are likely an important source of horizontal diffusion in the upper ocean.

Description: Supported by the Department of Defense (DoD) through the National Defense Science & Engineering Graduate Fellowship (NDSEG) Program and the National Science Foundation under Grant No. OCE-1129646. The collection and analysis of data from the SPURS-I central mooring were supported under National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) Grant No. NNX11AE84G and NNX14AH38G.

Description: The series of observations described in this report were planned with the double purpose of measuring the evaporation and transport of water vapor from the ocean into an unstable atmosphere, and of studying the diffusion processes operating in air of this stability class. Measured values of the evaporation from ocean surfaces were conspicuously absent from the meteorological literature until Craig and Montgomery (1949) published values for hydrostatically stable air. The present set of measurements extends our knowledge to include evaporation into a hydrostatically unstable air mass. In addition to evaporation values at the surface, net transports of water vapor at many levels up to 2000 meters have been measured.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution April, 1976

Description: Two numerical applications of two-level quasigeostrophic theory are used to investigate the interrelationships of the mean and mesoscale eddy fields in a closed-basin ocean model. The resulting techniques provide a more accurate description of the local dynamics, origins, and parametric dependences of the eddies than that available in previous modelling studies. First, we propose a novel and highly efficient quasigeostrophic closed-domain model which has among its advantages a heightened resolution in the boundary layer regions. The pseudospectral method, employing an orthogonal expansion in Fourier and Chebyshev functions, relies upon a discrete Green's function technique capable of satisfying to spectral accuracy rather arbitrary boundary conditions on the eastern and western (continental) walls. Using this formulation, a series of four primary numerical experiments tests the sensitivity of wind-driven single and double-gyred eddying circulations to a transition from free-slip to no-slip boundary conditions. These comparisons indicate that, in the absence of topography, no-slip boundaries act primarily to diffuse vorticity more efficiently. The interior transport fields are thus reduced by as much as 50%, but left qualitatively unchanged. In effect, once having separated from the western wall, the internal jet has no know1edge, apart from its characteristic flow speed, of the details of the boundary layer structure. Next, we develop a linearized stability theory to analyze the local dynamic processes responsible for the eddy fields observed in these idealized models. Given two-dimensional (x, z) velocity profiles of arbitrary horizontal orientation, the resulting eigenfunction problems are solved to predict a variety of eddy properties: growth rate, length and time scales, spatial distribution, and energy fluxes. This simple methodology accurately reproduces many of the eddy statistics of the fully nonlinear fields; for instance, growth rates of 10-100 days predicted for the growing waves by the stability analysis are consistent with observed model behavior and have been confirmed independently by a perturbation growth test. Local energetic considerations indicate that the eddy motions arise in distinct and recognizable regions of barotropic and baroclinic activity. The baroclinic instabilities deîend sensitively on the vertical shear which must exceed 0(5 cm sec-1) across the thermocline to induce eddy growth. As little as a 10% reduction in |uz|, however, severely suppresses the cascade of mean potential energy to the eddy field. In comparison, the barotropic energy conversion process scales with the horizontal velocity shear, |uy|, whose threshold values for instability, a (2 x 10-6 sec-1), is undoubtedly geophysically realizable. A simple scatter diagram of |uy| versus |uz| for all the unstable modes studied shows a clear separation between the regions of barotropic and baroclinic instability. While the existence of baroclinic modes can be deduced from either time mean or instantaneous flow profiles, barotropic modes cannot be predicted from mean circulation profiles (in which the averaging process reduces the effective horizontal shears). Finally, we conduct a separate set of stability experiments on analytically generated jet profiles. The resulting unstable modes align with the upper level velocity maxima and, although highly sensitive to local shear amplitude, depend much less strongly on jet separation and width. Thus, the spatial and temporal variability of the mesoscale statistics monitored in the nonlinear eddy simulations can be attributed almost entirely to time-dependent variations in local shear strength. While these results have been obtained in the absence of topography and in an idealized system, they yet have strong implications for the importance of the mid-ocean and boundary layer regions as possible eddy generation sites.

Description: This research has been made possible by National Science Foundation grant OCE74-03001 A03, formerly DES73-00528, and the National Science Foundation funded National Center for Atmospheric Research.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution April, 1977

Description: A total of four moorings from POLYMODE Array I and II were analyzed in an investigation of internal wavefield-mean flow interactions. In particular, evidence for wave-mean flow interaction was sought by searching for time correlations between the wavefield vertically-acting Reynolds stress (estimated using the temperature and velocity records), and the mean shear. No significant stress-shear correlations were found at the less energetic moorings, indicating that the magnitude of the eddy viscosity was under 200 cm2/sec, with the sign of the energy transfer uncertain. This is considerably below the 0(4500 cm2/sec) predicted by Müller (1976). An extensive error analysis indicates that the large wave stress predicted by the theory should have been clearly observable under the conditions of measurement. Theoretical computations indicate that the wavefield "basic state" may not be independent of the mean flow as assumed by Müller, but can actually be modified by large-scale vertical shear and still remain in equilibrium. In that case, the wavefield does not exchange momentum with a large-scale vertical shear flow, and, excepting critical layer effects, a small vertical eddy viscosity is to be expected. Using the Garrett-Munk (1975) model internal wave spectrum, estimates were made of the maximum momentum flux (stress) expected to be lost to critical layer absorption. Stress was found to increase almost linearly with the velocity difference across the shear zone, corresponding to a vertical eddy viscosity of -100 cm2 s -1. Stresses indicative of this effect were not observed in the data. The only significantly non-zero stress correlations were found at the more energetic moorings. Associated with the 600 m mean velocity and the shear at the thermocline were a positively correlated stress at 600 m, and a negatively correlated stress at 1000 m. These stress correlations were most clearly observable in the frequency range corresponding to 1 to 8 hour wave periods. The internal wavefield kinetic and potential energy were modulated by the mean flow at both levels, increasing by a factor of two with a factor of ten in the mean flow. The observed stress correlations and energy level changes were found to be inconsistent with ideas of a strictly local eddy viscosity, in which the spectrum of waves is only slightly modified by the shear. When Doppler effects in the temperature equation used to estimate vertical velocity were considered, the observations of stress and energy changes were found to be consistent with generation of short (0.4 to 3 km) internal waves at the level of maximum shear, about 800 m. The intensity of the generated waves increases with the shear, resulting in an effective vertical eddy viscosity (based on the main thermocline shear) of about +100 cm2 s-1 The stresses were not observable at the 1500 m level, indicating that the waves were absorbed within 500 m of vertical travel. The tendency for internal wave currents to be horizontally anisotropic in the presence of a mean current was investigated. Using the Garrett- Munk (1975) model internal wave spectrum, it was found that critical layer absorption cannot induce anisotropies as large as observed. A mechanical noise problem was found to be the cause of large anisotropies measured with Geodyne 850 current meters. It could not be decided, however, whether or not the A.M.F. Vector Averaging Current Meter is able to satisfactorily remove the noise with its averaging scheme.

Description: The research reported here was provided by Office of Naval Research Contract Numer N00014-76-C-0197 NR 083-400.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August, 1978

Description: A two-layer linear analytic model is used to study the response of the mid-latitude ocean to the seasonal variation of the windstress. The most important component of the response is a barotropic quasi-steady Sverdrup balance. A meridional ridge such as the Antilles Arc is modeled as an infinitely thin meridional barrier that blocks the lower layer but does not protrude into the upper layer. It is found that such a barrier has little effect on the upper layer flow across the barrier. This result is obtained provided the frequency of the motion is low enough so that free short Rossby waves are essentially nondivergent. In this case there is little coupling between the layers for energy propagating to the east away from the barrier. A study of the dynamics of flow over a sloping bottom is made and the results are used to determine the effect on seasonal oscillations of eastern boundary slopes and triangular ridges. It is found that the presence of a slope at the eastern boundary has little effect. A meridional ridge that does not reach the interface may cause substantial scattering of free Rossby waves, but unless the ridge is steep its effect on the quasi-steady Sverdrup balance is minimal. However, if the ridge height is a substantial fraction of the lower layer depth and the width is comparable to the scale of free short Rossby waves, the ridge will tend to block flow in the lower layer, acting like the infinitely thin barrier. The theory suggests that the Antilles Arc should have the effect of a thin barrier, while the Mid-Atlantic Ridge should have little effect on the response of the ocean to seasonal wind variations.

Description: For three and a half years of generous financial support I am grateful to the John and Fannie Hertz Foundation, from which I received a Graduate Fellowship. Research money and other support were provided by the National Science Foundation under contract OCE 77 15600.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August, 1978

Description: A linearized theory for the response of a circular pendulum spar in 2-dimensional waves and a uniform current is developed. The linear forces on the cylinder are predicted using an approximate potential flow theory for slender bodies. The dynamic equations are then amended to account for the wake effects of viscous bluff body flow by including a quadratic drag law and neglecting wave damping. A spectral model for the forces on a cylinder due to an oscillating wake, modeling the force as a frequency modulation process, is proposed. The non-linear equations of motion which result are then solved, assuming constant force coefficients, by linearization for use with a Gaussian random sea. The method of equivalent linearization is extended to include mean flow effects and a spatially distributed process. Some numerical experiments are then used to test the performance of the linearization. For a variety of environments, the linearization predicts the standard deviation of the simulation response to within 10% and the mean angle of inclination to within 30%. Results of the numerical experiments indicate that there is significant variation (order of magnitude changes) in both response and mean angle of inclination. Thus, significant changes are followed by the linearization. A laboratory experiment was carried out to test the linearized spar model in a realistic fluid environment. Only the low Keulegan Carpenter number regime was investigated. With some minimal manipulations, good agreement is obtained between the experiment and the linearized estimates. It appears that the drag coefficients for vortex induced in-line forces may be an order of magnitude larger than those reported in the literature, .5 instead of .06, and that the shedding of vortices due to steady flow may reduce the added mass coefficient significantly, as observed in oscillating flows with significant vortex shedding.

Description: The National Science Foundation provided tuition and stipend support under an NSF Graduate Fellowship for three years. I was fortunate to have been selected by the Board of Trustees of the Naval Postgraduate School Foundation as the first recipient of the Carl E. Menneken Fellowship for Scientific Research, which provided partial support during 1976-77.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution October, 1971

Description: The objective of this study was to describe the mechanics of wind wave generation and spectral development. Intermittency, high frequency microstructure in wind and wave fields, and strong nonlinear coupling involving a wide range of scales are shown to be crucial elements in the transfer of momentum to, from, and within the wave field. None of these elements are included in available theories. Measurements of wave height and of the turbulent atmospheric and subsurface boundary layers were made, from a small surface following platform and from a stable 38.5m spar buoy. The structure of moving gust patterns (cat's paws) is described and related to the generation of surface waves. Results from this and other background studies are then applied to a discussion of spectral growth during a two day period of active wave generation. Cat's paws contain 'bursts' of intense turbulent stress and buoyancy fluctuations separated by quiescent 'intervals'. There is a difference of over three orders of magnitude in fluctuation strength between these features. Rapid growth rate generation of high frequency surface waves and atmospheric turbulence occurs during the bursts. The resultant microscale components aid the growth of lower frequency instabilities by strong nonlinear coupling between scales of motion and by acting as drag or roughness elements. Evidence of strong coupling between frequency bands and of weakly resonant capillary-gravity wave interactions is presented. Thermal stratification has a strong influence on fluctuation magnitude and can delay the onset of surface wave generation. Major spectral growth is highly unsteady. Much of the momentum flux from air to sea occurs during intermittent events that are similar in nature to cat's paws, and goes directly into high frequency waves. The bursts occur predominantly over large groups of surface waves and involve strong nonlinear interactions between media and frequency bands. The long-term equilibrium balance between wind and water is disrupted by variations in surface currents. There are 'critical' wind speeds characterized by anomalous relationships between parameters of the predominantly logarithmic velocity profile.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution January, 1971

Description: Observations of the ocean in the vicinity of Bermuda on two different occasions show systematic distortions of the isotherms close to the island and an area of intensive mixing on the northern coast. Two mechanisms are investigated and each produces some agreement with data from different flow regimes. Firstly, the island is modeled as a circularly symmetric obstacle with steep sides and a small aspect ratio. A steady, rotating, and stratified flow which, far from the island, is uniform in the horizontal and a linear function of the vertical coordinate is taken to be flowing past the island. Neglecting circulation effects, the problem is solved to first order in a small parameter, α, which measures the steepness of the island and a small Rossby number, ε. This allows a calculation of the depth contours of isotherms to 0(ε2,εα). For one set of data the flow is such that the slope effect of 0(εα) predominates while for another period of observation both slope and Rossby number influences are of the same magnitude. In both cases qualitative agreement between fact and theory is remarkably good. In addition, it is shown that the north slope (for a west-east current) is the most favored area for mixing as there the Richardson number is a minimum and the flow is most likely to separate from the boundary. A second means of producing isotherm distortion and mixing areas close to the island concerns the nonlinear effects of shoaling internal gravity waves. For normal incidence on a two-dimensional beach the Reynolds stresses produced by the fundamental wave motion are shown to force a mean Eulerian current which is equal hut opposite in sense to the Stokes drift. This causes the mean Lagrangian current to vanish so that the physical constraint that there be no net motion of fluid particles along isopycnals into the beach is satisfied. In addition, isotherms are distorted in a fashion analogous to the surface set-down produced by shoaling surface waves. The mean isopycnal shift can be as much as 10m where the theory has some validity. Distortions of the predicted form are observed in the data from a period when the mean currents were small. Consideration of the oblique incidence problem shows that this generalization has little effect on the expected magnitude of the shifts but that a significant longshore current can be forced by the breaking of the waves.

Description: This study was supported by the Office of Naval Research under contracts Nonr 1841(74) and Nonr 3963(31) with the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Additional support came from the National Science Foundation in the form of a summer fellowship and computer time under contract NSF GJ-133 with the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2006

Description: The impact of the Greenland tip jet on the wintertime mixed-layer of the southwest Irminger Sea is investigated using in-situ moored profiler data and a variety of atmospheric data sets. The mixed-layer was observed to reach 400 m in the spring of 2003, and 300 m in the spring of 2004. Both of these winters were mild and characterized by a low North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) index. All of the storms that were advected through the region were tracked, and the tip jet events that occurred throughout the two winters were identified. Composite images of the tip jets elucidated the conditions during which tip jets were likely to take place, which led to an objective method of determining tip jet occurrences by taking into account the large-scale pressure gradients. Output from a trajectory model indicates that the air parcels entering a tip jet accelerate and descend as they are deflected around southern Greenland. A heat flux timeseries for the mooring site was constructed that includes the enhancing influence of the tip jet events. This was used to drive a one-dimensional mixed-layer model, which was able to reproduce the observed mixed-layer deepening in both winters. All of the highest heat flux events took place during tip jets, and removal of the tip jets from the heat flux timeseries demonstrated their importance in driving convection east of Greenland. The deeper mixed-layer of the first winter was in large part due to a higher number of robust tip jet events, which in turn was caused by a greater number of storms passing northeast of southern Greenland. This interannual change in storm tracks was attributable to a difference in upper level steering currents. Application of the mixed-layer model to the winter of 1994-l995, during a period characterized by a high NAO index, resulted in convection reaching 1600 m. This predict ion is consistent with concurrent hydrographic data, supporting the notion that deep convection can occur in the Irminger Sea during strong winters.

Description: Financial support for this work was provided by National Science Foundation grant OCE-0450658.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution June 2006

Description: The continuous supply of heat and fresh water from the boundaries to the interior of the Labrador Sea plays an important role for the dynamics of the region and in particular, for the Labrador Sea Water formation. Thus, it is necessary to understand the factors governing the exchange of properties between the boundary and interior. A significant fraction of heat and fresh water, needed to balance the annual heat loss and to contribute to the seasonal freshening of the Labrador Sea, is thought to be provided by coherent long-lived anticyclonic eddies shed by the Irminger Current. The population, some properties, rates and direction of propagation of these anomalies are known but the evolution and the mechanism of their decay are still far from obvious. In this work I investigated their water mass properties and evolution under the strong wintertime forcing using hydrographic data from 1990-2004 and a 1-dimensional mixed layer model. There were 50 eddies found in the hydrographic data record, 48 of which were identified as anticyclones. Vertical structure of the eddies was investigated, leading to the categorization of all the anticyclones into three classes: 12 - with a fresh surface layer and no mixed layer, 18 - without a fresh layer and at least one mixed layer, and 18 with ambiguous vertical structure. Four eddies of the second group appeared to have cores extending to as deep as 1500 m vertically and an isopycnal displacement of 400-600 m. A number of eddies without a fresh water cap contained Labrador Sea Water from the previous year at mid-depths.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology April 1979

Description: Observational work by Thompson (1977) and others has demonstrated that free topographic Rossby waves propagate northward up the continental rise south of New England. To study the dynamical implications of these waves as they approach the shelf, Beardsley, Vermersch, and Brown conducted an experiment in 1976 (called NESS76) in which some moored instruments were strategically placed across the New England continental margin to measure current, temperature, and bottom pressure for about six months. An analytical model has been constructed to study the propagation of free topographic Rossby waves in an infinite wedge filled with a uniformly stratified fluid. The problem is found after some coordinate transformations to be identical to the corresponding surface gravity wave problem in a homogeneous fluid, but with the roles of the surface and bottom boundaries interchanged. Analytical solutions are thus available for both progressive and trapped waves, forming continuous and discrete spectra in the frequency space. The separation occurs at a nondimensional frequency δ = S, defined as (N/f) tanθ*, where N and f are the Brunt-Väisälä and inertial frequencies, and tanθ* is the bottom slope. Since an infinite wedge has no intrinsic length scales, the only relevant nondimensiona1 parameters are the frequency δ and the Burger number S. Thus, stratification and bottom slope play the same dynamical role, and the analysis is greatly simplified. Asymptotic solutions for the progressive waves have been obtained for both the far field and small S which enable us to examine the parameter dependence of some of the basic wave properties in the far field, and the spatial evolution of the wave amplitude and phase as they approach the apex when S is small. The general solution is then presented and discussed in some detail. The eigenfrequencies of the trapped modes decrease when S decreases and reduce to the short wave limit of Reid's (1958) second class, barotropic edge waves when S approaches zero. The modal structure broadens as S increases to some critical value above which no such coastally-trapped modes exist. To simulate more closely the dynamical processes occurring near the continental margin, a numerical model incorporating a more realistic topography than an infinite wedge has been constructed. With stratification imposing an additional harrier, the model suggests that the maximum energy flux transmission coefficient obtained in Kroll and Niiler's barotropic model (1976) is likely an upper bound. Also in the presence of the finite slope changes, the baroclinic fringe waves generated near the slope-rise junction may form an amphidromic point at some mid-depth and locally reverse the direction of the phase propagation above it. These baroclinic fringe waves also cause an offshore heat flux over the continental rise which, combined with the onshore heat flux generated over the slope region in a frictionless model, induces, across the transect, a mean flow pattern of two counter-rotating gyres with downwelling occurring near the slope-rise junction. Bottom friction always generates an offshore heat flux and therefore modifies this mean flow pattern over the slope region. The induced longshore mean flow is approximately geostrophically balanced and generally points to the left facing the shoreline, but its direction can be reversed where the baroclinic fringe waves dominate. The mean thermal wind relation implies a generally denser slope water than that farther offshore. Some of the model predictions are compared with the data taken from NESS76. The comparisons are generally consistent, suggesting that topographic Rossby wave dynamics may play an important role for the low frequency motions near continental margins.

Description: This work is supported at Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution by the National Science Foundation under grant numbers OCE 76-0l813 and OCE 78-19513.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August 1980

Description: Observational evidence of seasonal variability below the main thermocline in the eastern North Atlantic is described, and a theoretical model of oceanic response to seasonally varying windstress forcing is constructed to assist in the interpretation of the observations. The observations are historical conductivity-temperature-depth data from the Bay of Biscay region (2° to 20°W, 42° to 52°N), a series of eleven cruises over the three years 1972 through 1974, spaced approximately three months apart. The analysis of the observations utilizes a new technique for identifying the adiabatically leveled density field corresponding to the observed density field. The distribution of salinity anomaly along the leveled surfaces is examined, as are the vertical displacements of observed density surfaces from the leveled reference surfaces, and the available potential energy. Seasonal variations in salinity anomaly and vertical displacement occur as westward propagating disturbances with zonal wavelength 390 (±50) km, phase 71 (±30) days from 1 January, and maximum amplitudes of ±30 ppm and ±20 db respectively. The leveled density field varies seasonally with an amplitude corresponding to a thermocline displacement of ±15 db. The observations are consistent with the predictions of a model in which an ocean of variable stratification with a surface mixed layer and an eastern boundary is forced by seasonal changes in a sinusoidal windstress pattern, when windstress parameters calculated from the observations of Bunker and Worthington (1976) are applied.

Description: This work was supported by the Office of Naval Research under contract N00014~76-C-197, NR 083-400.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution December 1980

Description: Data from the COBOLT experiment, which investigated the first 12 km off Long Island's south shore, are analyzed and discussed. Moored current meter records indicate that the nearshore flow field is strongly polarized in the alongshore direction and its fluctuations are well correlated with local meteorological forcing. Complex empirical orthogonal function analysis suggests that subtidal velocity fluctuations are barotropic in nature and are strongly influenced by bottom friction. Wind-related inertial currents were observed within the coastal boundary layer (CBL) under favorable meteorological and hydrographical conditions. The magnitude of these oscillations increases with distance from shore, and they display a very clear 180° phase difference between surface and bottom layers. Nearshore inertial oscillations of both velocity and salinity records appear to lead those further seaward, suggesting local generation and subsequent radiation away from the coast. The response of the coastal zone to impulsive wind forcing is discussed using simple slab and two-layer models, and the behavior of the nearshore current field examined. The major features of the observed inertial motions are in good qualitative agreement with model predictions. It is found that, in a homogeneous domain, the coastal boundary condition effectively prohibits inertial currents over the entire coastal zone. In the presence of stratification the offshore extent of this prohibition is greatly reduced and significant inertial currents may occur within one or two internal deformation radii of the coast. The "coastal effect", in the form of surface and interfacial waves which propagate away from the coast, modifies the "pure" inertial response as it would exist far from shore. The kinematics of this process is such that a 180° phase difference between currents in the two layers is characteristic of the entire coastal zone even before the internal wave has had time to traverse the CBL. It is also suggested that, for positions seaward of several internal deformation radii, interference between the surface and internal components of the coastal response will cause maximum inertial amplitudes to occur for t 〉 x/c2, where c2 is the phase speed of the internal disturbance. The hydrographic structure of the CBL is observed to undergo frequent homogenization. These events are related to both advective and mixing processes. Horizontal and vertical exchange coefficients are estimated from the data, and subsequently used in a diffusive model which accurately reproduces the observed mean density distribution in the nearshore zone. Dynamic balance calculations are performed which indicate that the subtidal cross-shore momentum balance is very nearly geostrophic. The calculations also suggest that the longshore balance may be reasonably represented by a steady, linear equation of motion which includes surface and bottom stresses. Evidence is presented which shows that variations in the longshore wind-stress component are primarily responsible for the energetic fluctuations in the sea surface slope along Long Island. Depth-averaged velocities characteristically show net offshore transport in the study area, and often display dramatic longshore current reversals with distance from shore. These observations are interpreted in terms of a steady circulation model which includes realistic nearshore topography. Model results suggest that longshore current reversals within the CBL may be limited to the eastern end of Long Island, and that this unusual flow pattern is a consequence of flow convergence related to the presence of Long Island Sound.

Description: This work was supported by the Department of Energy through contract no. DE-AC02-EVI0005 entitled Coastal-Shelf Transport and Diffusion.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2000

Description: Estimation of the upper ocean heat budget from one year of observations at a moored array in the north central Arabian Sea shows a rough balance between the horizontal advection and time change in heat when the one-dimensional balance between the surface heat flux and oceanic heat content breaks down. The two major episodes of horizontal advection, during the early northeast (NE) and late southwest (SW) monsoon seasons, are both associated with the propagation of mesoscale eddies. During the NE monsoon, the heat fluxes within the mixed layer are not significantly different from zero, and the large heat flux comes from advected changes in the thermocline depth. During the SW monsoon a coastal filament exports recently upwelled water from the Omani coast to the site of the array, 600 km offshore. Altimetry shows mildly elevated levels of surface eddy kinetic energy along the Arabian coast during the SW monsoon, suggesting that such offshore transport may be an important component of the Arabian Sea heat budget. The sea surface temperature (SST) and mixed layer depth are observed to respond to high frequency (HF, diurnal to atmospheric synoptic time scales) variability in the surface heat flux and wind stress. The rectified effect of this HF forcing is investigated in a three-dimensional reduced gravity thermodynamic model of the Arabian Sea and Indian Ocean. Both the HF heat and wind forcing act locally to increase vertical mixing in the model, reducing the SST. Interactions between the local response to the surface forcing, Ekman divergences, and remotely propagated signals in the model can reverse this, generating greater SSTs under HF forcing, particularly at low latitudes. The annual mean SST, however, is lowered under HF forcing, changing the balance between the net surface heat flux (which is dependent on the SST) and the meridional heat flux in the model. A suite of experiments with one-dimensional upper ocean models with different representations of vertical mixing processes suggests that the rectified effect of the diurnal heating cycle is dependent on the model, and overstated in the formulation used in the three-dimensional model.

Description: Funded by the Office of Naval Research (ONR), grant NOOO14-94-1-0161 and National Defense Science and Engineering Graduate Fellowship and by ONR grant NOOO14-99-1-0090.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2008. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 38 (2008): 133–145, doi:10.1175/2007JPO3782.1.

Description: Five ice-tethered profilers (ITPs), deployed between 2004 and 2006, have provided detailed potential temperature θ and salinity S profiles from 21 anticyclonic eddy encounters in the central Canada Basin of the Arctic Ocean. The 12–35-m-thick eddies have center depths between 42 and 69 m in the Arctic halocline, and are shallower and less dense than the majority of eddies observed previously in the central Canada Basin. They are characterized by anomalously cold θ and low stratification, and have horizontal scales on the order of, or less than, the Rossby radius of deformation (about 10 km). Maximum azimuthal speeds estimated from dynamic heights (assuming cyclogeostrophic balance) are between 9 and 26 cm s−1, an order of magnitude larger than typical ambient flow speeds in the central basin. Eddy θ–S and potential vorticity properties, as well as horizontal and vertical scales, are consistent with their formation by instability of a surface front at about 80°N that appears in historical CTD and expendable CTD (XCTD) measurements. This would suggest eddy lifetimes longer than 6 months. While the baroclinic instability of boundary currents cannot be ruled out as a generation mechanism, it is less likely since deeper eddies that would originate from the deeper-reaching boundary flows are not observed in the survey region.

Description: The engineering design work for the ITP was initiated by the Cecil H. and Ida M. Green Technology Innovation Program (an internal program at the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution). Prototype development and construction were funded jointly by the U.S. National Science Foundation (NSF) Oceanographic Technology and Interdisciplinary Coordination Program and Office of Polar Programs (OPP) under Award OCE-0324233. Continued support has been provided by the OPP Arctic Sciences Section under Award ARC-0519899 and internal WHOI funding.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2008. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 38 (2008): 1644-1668, doi:10.1175/2007JPO3829.1.

Description: The mean structure and time-dependent behavior of the shelfbreak jet along the southern Beaufort Sea, and its ability to transport properties into the basin interior via eddies are explored using high-resolution mooring data and an idealized numerical model. The analysis focuses on springtime, when weakly stratified winter-transformed Pacific water is being advected out of the Chukchi Sea. When winds are weak, the observed jet is bottom trapped with a low potential vorticity core and has maximum mean velocities of O(25 cm s−1) and an eastward transport of 0.42 Sv (1 Sv ≡ 106 m3 s−1). Despite the absence of winds, the current is highly time dependent, with relative vorticity and twisting vorticity often important components of the Ertel potential vorticity. An idealized primitive equation model forced by dense, weakly stratified waters flowing off a shelf produces a mean middepth boundary current similar in structure to that observed at the mooring site. The model boundary current is also highly variable, and produces numerous strong, small anticyclonic eddies that transport the shelf water into the basin interior. Analysis of the energy conversion terms in both the mooring data and the numerical model indicates that the eddies are formed via baroclinic instability of the boundary current. The structure of the eddies in the basin interior compares well with observations from drifting ice platforms. The results suggest that eddies shed from the shelfbreak jet contribute significantly to the offshore flux of heat, salt, and other properties, and are likely important for the ventilation of the halocline in the western Arctic Ocean. Interaction with an anticyclonic basin-scale circulation, meant to represent the Beaufort gyre, enhances the offshore transport of shelf water and results in a loss of mass transport from the shelfbreak jet.

Description: This study was supported by the National Science Foundation Office of Polar Programs under Grants 0421904 and 035268 (MS), and by the Office of Naval Research Grant N00014-02-1-0317 (RP and PF). Analysis by AJP was supported by the Office of Naval Research under Grant N00014-97-1-0135 and by the National Science Foundation under Grant OPP-9815303.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2008. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 38 (2008): 1992-2002, doi:10.1175/2008JPO3669.1.

Description: This paper extends A. Bracco and J. Pedlosky’s investigation of the eddy-formation mechanism in the eastern Labrador Sea by including a more realistic depiction of the boundary current. The quasigeostrophic model consists of a meridional, coastally trapped current with three vertical layers. The current configuration and topographic domain are chosen to match, as closely as possible, the observations of the boundary current and the varying topographic slope along the West Greenland coast. The role played by the bottom-intensified component of the boundary current on the formation of the Labrador Sea Irminger Rings is explored. Consistent with the earlier study, a short, localized bottom-trapped wave is responsible for most of the perturbation energy growth. However, for the instability to occur in the three-layer model, the deepest component of the boundary current must be sufficiently strong, highlighting the importance of the near-bottom flow. The model is able to reproduce important features of the observed vortices in the eastern Labrador Sea, including the polarity, radius, rate of formation, and vertical structure. At the time of formation, the eddies have a surface signature as well as a strong circulation at depth, possibly allowing for the transport of both surface and near-bottom water from the boundary current into the interior basin. This work also supports the idea that changes in the current structure could be responsible for the observed interannual variability in the number of Irminger Rings formed.

Description: AB is supported by WHOI unrestricted funds, JP by the National Science Foundation OCE 85108600, and RP by 0450658.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2007. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 37 (2007): 1103-1121, doi:10.1175/jpo3041.1.

Description: The role of mesoscale oceanic eddies is analyzed in a quasigeostrophic coupled ocean–atmosphere model operating at a large Reynolds number. The model dynamics are characterized by decadal variability that involves nonlinear adjustment of the ocean to coherent north–south shifts of the atmosphere. The oceanic eddy effects are diagnosed by the dynamical decomposition method adapted for nonstationary external forcing. The main effects of the eddies are an enhancement of the oceanic eastward jet separating the subpolar and subtropical gyres and a weakening of the gyres. The flow-enhancing effect is due to nonlinear rectification driven by fluctuations of the eddy forcing. This is a nonlocal process involving generation of the eddies by the flow instabilities in the western boundary current and the upstream part of the eastward jet. The eddies are advected by the mean current to the east, where they backscatter into the rectified enhancement of the eastward jet. The gyre-weakening effect, which is due to the time-mean buoyancy component of the eddy forcing, is a result of the baroclinic instability of the westward return currents. The diagnosed eddy forcing is parameterized in a non-eddy-resolving ocean model, as a nonstationary random process, in which the corresponding parameters are derived from the control coupled simulation. The key parameter of the random process—its variance—is related to the large-scale flow baroclinicity index. It is shown that the coupled model with the non-eddy-resolving ocean component and the parameterized eddies correctly simulates climatology and low-frequency variability of the control eddy-resolving coupled solution.

Description: Funding for this work came from NSF Grants OCE 02-221066 and OCE 03-44094. Additional funding for PB was provided by the U.K. Royal Society Fellowship and by WHOI Grants 27100056 and 52990035.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution January 1988

Description: Analysis of vertical profiles of absolute horizontal velocity collected in January 1981, February 1982 and April 1982 in the central equatorial Pacific as part of the Pacific Equatorial Ocean Dynamics (PEQUOD) program, revealed two significant narrow band spectral peaks in the zonal velocity records, centered at vertical wavelengths of 560 and 350 stretched meters (sm). Both signals were present in all three cruises, but the 350 sm peak showed a more steady character in amplitude and a higher signal-to-noise ratio. In addition, its vertical scales corresponded to the scales of the conspicuous alternating flows generically called the equatorial deep jets in the past (the same terminology will be used here). Meridional velocity and vertical displacement spectra did not show any such energetic features. Energy in the 560 sm band roughly doubled between January 1981 and April 1982. Time lagged coherence results suggested upward phase propagation at time scales of about 4 years. East-west phase lines computed from zonally lagged coherences, tilted downward towards the west, implying westward phase propagation. Estimates of zonal wavelength (on the order of 10000 km) and period based on these coherence calculations, and the observed energy meridional structure at this vertical wavenumber band, seem consistent, within experimental errors, with the presence of a first meridional mode long Rossby wave packet, weakly modulated in the zonal direction. The equatorial deep jets, identified with the peak centered at 350 sm, are best defined as a finite narrow band process in vertical wavenumber (311-400 sm), accounting for only 20% of the total variance present in the broad band energetic background. At the jets wavenumber band, latitudinal energy scaling compared well with Kelvin wave theoretical values and a general tilt of phase lines downward towards the east yielded estimates of 10000-16000 km for the zonal wavelengths. Time-lagged coherence calculations revealed evidence for vertical shifting of the jets on interannual time scales. Interpretation of results in terms of single frequency linear wave processes led to inconsistencies, but finite bandwidth (in frequency and wavenumber) Kelvin wave processes of periods on the order of three to five years could account for the observations. Thus, the records do not preclude equatorial waves as a reasonable kinematic description of the jets.

Description: This research was supported by grant OCE-8600052 from the National Science Foundation, through the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution June 1988

Description: The degree to which a baroclinic deep ocean could be responsible for the mean flow on the shallow continental shelf is examined using steady, boundary forced models which incorporate bottom friction. One set of models, for a vertically well mixed shelf, includes the horizontal advection of density. The second set of models comprises a three-layer model without and a two-layer model with interfacial friction. It is found that near bottom flow has a short cross isobath scale due to the steep continental slope and consequently that the deep oceans lower water column could not be responsible for the observed mean flow. The cross isobath scale of flow in the upper deep ocean is predominantly determined by the oceans velocity profile. In a barotropic or near barotropic flow the upper water column follows the near bottom flow and therefore has little influence on the shelf. A surface intensified deep ocean flow is able to cross isobaths until it encounters the bottom. If deep ocean flow is confined to a surface layer thinner than the depth at the shelf break it could be responsible for the observed flow. The depth scale for velocity and density over the slope in the Mid-Atlantic Bight is generally larger than the shelf break depth and consequently it is concluded that the steep continental slope "insulates" this particular shelf from baroclinic deep ocean influence and therefore that the observed shelf flow is not of oceanic origin. Using oxygen isotope data, Chapman et al. (1986) found that the Scotian shelf is the major source of Mid-Atlantic Bight shelf water. Their barotropic modeling results are extended to show that a baroclinic deep ocean also acts to hold shelf water on the shelf.

Description: This Research was carried out with the support of the National Science Foundation, Grant OCE-85-18487

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 1999

Description: This thesis addresses the parameterization of the heat and momentum transporting properties of eddy motions for use in three-dimensional, primitive equation, z-coordinate atmosphere and ocean models. Determining the transport characteristics of these eddies is fundamental to understanding their effect on the large-scale ocean circulation and global climate. The approach is to transform the primitive equations to yield the altered 'transformed Eulerian mean' (TEM) equations. The assumption is made that the eddy motions obey quasigeostrophic dynamics while the mean flow obeys the primitive equations. With this assumption, the TEM framework leads to the eddies appearing as one term, which acts as a body force in the momentum equations. This force manifests itself as a flux of potential vorticity (PV) - a quantity that incorporates both eddy momentum and heat transporting properties. Moreover, the dynamic velocities are those of the residual mean circulation, a much more relevant velocity for understanding heat and tracer transport. Closure for the eddy PV flux is achieved through a flux-gradient relationship, which directs the flux down the large scale PV gradient. For zonal flows, care is taken to ensure that the resulting force does not generate any net momentum, acting only to redistribute it. Neglect of relative vorticity fluxes in the PV flux yields the parameterization scheme of Gent and McWilliams. The approach is investigated by comparing a zonally-averaged parameterized model with a three dimensional eddy-resolving calculation of flow in a stress-driven channel. The stress at the upper surface is communicated down the water column to the bottom by eddy form drag. Moreover, lateral eddy momentum fluxes act to strengthen and sharpen the mean flow, transporting eastward momentum up its large scale gradient. Both the vertical momentum transfer and lateral, upgradient momentum transfer by eddies, are captured in the parameterized model. The advantages of this approach are demonstrated in two further zonal cases: 1) the spin-down of a baroclinic zone, and 2) the atmospheric jet stream. The time mean TEM approach and the eddy PV flux closure are explored in the context of an eddy-resolving closed basin flow which breaks the zonal symmetry. Decomposition of eddy PV fluxes into components associated with advective and dissipative effects suggest that the component associated with eddy flux divergence, and therefore forcing of the mean flow, is mainly directed down the large scale gradient and can be parameterized as before. Thus, the approach can be used to capture eddy transport properties for both zonal mean and time mean flows. The PV flux embodies both the eddy heat and momentum fluxes and so presents a more unified picture of their transferring properties. It therefore provides a powerful conceptual and practical framework for representing eddies in numerical models of the atmsophere and ocean.

Description: The work in this thesis was funded by grants from NSF, (OCE-9634331, OCE- 9503895), ONR (NOOOI4-95-1-0967), and by a fellowship from the Joint Program on the Science and Policy of Global Change at MIT.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2011. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 41 (2011): 2168–2186, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-11-08.1.

Description: This paper studies the interaction of an Antarctic Circumpolar Current (ACC)–like wind-driven channel flow with a continental slope and a flat-bottomed bay-shaped shelf near the channel’s southern boundary. Interaction between the model ACC and the topography in the second layer induces local changes of the potential vorticity (PV) flux, which further causes the formation of a first-layer PV front near the base of the topography. Located between the ACC and the first-layer slope, the newly formed PV front is constantly perturbed by the ACC and in turn forces the first-layer slope with its own variability in an intermittent but persistent way. The volume transport of the slope water across the first-layer slope edge is mostly directly driven by eddies and meanders of the new front, and its magnitude is similar to the maximum Ekman transport in the channel. Near the bay’s opening, the effect of the topographic waves, excited by offshore variability, dominates the cross-isobath exchange and induces a mean clockwise shelf circulation. The waves’ propagation is only toward the west and tends to be blocked by the bay’s western boundary in the narrow-shelf region. The ensuing wave–coast interaction amplifies the wave amplitude and the cross-shelf transport. Because the interaction only occurs near the western boundary, the shelf water in the west of the bay is more readily carried offshore than that in the east and the mean shelf circulation is also intensified along the bay’s western boundary.

Description: Y. Zhang acknowledges the support of the MIT-WHOI Joint Program in Physical Oceanography and NSF OCE-9901654 and OCE- 0451086. J. Pedlosky acknowledges the support of NSF OCE-9901654 and OCE-0451086.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution June 1997

Description: Second-class wave propagation along mid-ocean ridges is investigated in an effort to explain subinertial peaks found in the velocity spectra over the Juan de Fuca Ridge (JdFR, 4 days) and the Iceland-Faeroe Ridge (IFR, 1.8 days). Topographic cross sections of the ridges are fit by a double-exponential depth profile and the linearized shallow water equations are solved with the simplified topography. In the northern hemisphere the western ridge flank supports an infinite set of modes for a topographically trapped northward propagating wave and the eastern flank supports southward propagating modes. The eigenfunctions are calculated and dispersion curves are examined for a variety of ridge profiles. Increasing the slope of a ridge flank increases the frequencies of the modes it supports. In addition, the waves travelling along the flanks 'feel' the topography of the opposite side so t hat increasing the width or steepness of the eastern slope decreases the frequencies of the modes supported by the western side (and vice versa). The dispersion characteristics of the trapped nondivergent oscillations allow a zero group velocity (ZGV) so that energy may accumulate along the ridge as long as the ridge does not approach the isolated shelf profile. Including divergence lowers the frequencies of the longest waves so that a ZGV may be found for all ridge profiles. The nature of the effects of stratification, represented by a two-layer model, are explored by a perturbation procedure for weak stratification. The 0(1) barotropic basic state is accompanied by an 0(E2) baroclinic perturbation. The frequencies of the barotropic modes are increased and the velocities are bottom-trapped. For reasonable values of stratification, however, this effect is small. Plugging the JdFR topography into the models produces an approximate 4-day ZGV wave with wavelengths between 1500 and 4500 km. The IFR oscillation, however, appears to be better modelled by a topographic-Rossby mode model. (Miller et al., 1996) The ridge wave models discussed here also predict the observed anticyclonic velocity ellipses over the ridge and horizontal decay away from the ridge crest.

Description: I have been supported during this research by an ONR fellowship, for which I am grateful. The impetus to this work and the ADCP data were provided by an NSF grant (OCE-9215342).

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution May 1996

Description: TOPEX/POSEIDON altimetry data are employed in the analysis of the global ocean response to atmospheric forcing. We use two different approaches to test the hypothesis that the global sea surface height variability can be adequately described by linear barotropic ocean models: the multichannel regression and the optimal smoothing techniques. We start with the simplest linear vorticity balance and continue by building a hierarchy of more complicated models by including effects of topography and time dependence. We use auto-regressive external (ARX) time-series models to test the hypothesis in all of the Pacific Ocean. We also test whether any significant residual regression on the atmospheric loading is left after the inverted barometer effect is corrected for. We find that no linear barotropic model is consistent with the data. We provide a check on the results of the multichannel regression by using a Kalman filter and optimal smoother. We use sequential estimation in the form of filteringsmoothing algorithm. We run the estimate for an area of 4000 km by 2000 km in the Northeast Pacific. We analyze model and data error structures by simulating the model without data assimilation. The results show that the model forecast on average explains 33% of the data variability. The Kalman filter updates the model very efficiently and produces an estimate which explains 76% of the data variance. The optimal smoother estimate is very similar to the Kalman filter estimate. Running the model in other regions of the Pacific produced worse fits of the model to the data. This supports the conclusion that the linear barotropic dynamics fails to describe the SSH variability.

Description: This research was partially funded by a NASA Global Change Fellowship.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2012. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 42 (2012): 2206–2228, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-11-0191.1.

Description: This study investigates the anisotropic properties of the eddy-induced material transport in the near-surface North Atlantic from two independent datasets, one simulated from the sea surface height altimetry and one derived from real-ocean surface drifters, and systematically examines the interactions between the mean- and eddy-induced material transport in the region. The Lagrangian particle dispersion, which is widely used to characterize the eddy-induced tracer fluxes, is quantified by constructing the “spreading ellipses.” The analysis consistently demonstrates that this dispersion is spatially inhomogeneous and strongly anisotropic. The spreading is larger and more anisotropic in the subtropical than in the subpolar gyre, and the largest ellipses occur in the Gulf Stream vicinity. Even at times longer than half a year, the spreading exhibits significant nondiffusive behavior in some parts of the domain. The eddies in this study are defined as deviations from the long-term time-mean. The contributions from the climatological annual cycle, interannual, and subannual (shorter than one year) variability are investigated, and the latter is shown to have the strongest effect on the anisotropy of particle spreading. The influence of the mean advection on the eddy-induced particle spreading is investigated using the “eddy-following-full-trajectories” technique and is found to be significant. The role of the Ekman advection is, however, secondary. The pronounced anisotropy of particle dispersion is expected to have important implications for distributing oceanic tracers, and for parameterizing eddy-induced tracer transfer in non-eddy-resolving models.

Description: IR was supported by Grant NSF-OCE-0725796. IK would like to acknowledge support by the National Science foundation Grant OCE-0842834.

Description: 2013-06-01

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2013. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 43 (2013): 905–919, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-12-0150.1.

Description: Interactions between vortices and a shelfbreak current are investigated, with particular attention to the exchange of waters between the continental shelf and slope. The nonlinear, three-dimensional interaction between an anticyclonic vortex and the shelfbreak current is studied in the laboratory while varying the ratio ε of the maximum azimuthal velocity in the vortex to the maximum alongshelf velocity in the shelfbreak current. Strong interactions between the shelfbreak current and the vortex are observed when ε 〉 1; weak interactions are found when ε 〈 1. When the anticyclonic vortex comes in contact with the shelfbreak front during a strong interaction, a streamer of shelf water is drawn offshore and wraps anticyclonically around the vortex. Measurements of the offshore transport and identification of the particle trajectories in the shelfbreak current drawn offshore from the vortex allow quantification of the fraction of the shelfbreak current that is deflected onto the slope; this fraction increases for increasing values of ε. Experimental results in the laboratory are strikingly similar to results obtained from observations in the Middle Atlantic Bight (MAB); after proper scaling, measurements of offshore transport and offshore displacement of shelf water for vortices in the MAB that span a range of values of ε agree well with laboratory predictions.

Description: Laboratory work was supported by the National Science Foundation through Grant OCE- 0081756. Glider observations in March–April 2006 were supported by the National Science Foundation through Grant OCE-0220769. Glider observations in July– October 2007 were supported by a grant from Raytheon. RET was supported by the Postdoctoral Scholar Program at the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, with funding provided by the Cooperative Institute for the North Atlantic Region. The REMUS observations were funded by the Office of Naval Research. GGG was supported by the National Science Foundation through Grant OCE-1129125 for analysis and writing.

Description: 2013-11-01

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2013. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Climate 26 (2013): 9839–9859, doi:10.1175/JCLI-D-12-00647.1.

Description: Spatial and temporal covariability between the atmospheric transient eddy heat fluxes (i.e., υ′T′ and υ′q′) in the Northern Hemisphere winter (January–March) and the paths of the Gulf Stream (GS), Kuroshio Extension (KE), and Oyashio Extension (OE) are examined based on an atmospheric reanalyses and ocean observations for 1979–2009. For the climatological winter mean, the northward heat fluxes by the synoptic (2–8 days) transient eddies exhibit canonical storm tracks with their maxima collocated with the GS and KE/OE. The intraseasonal (8 days–3 months) counterpart, while having overall similar amplitude, shows a spatial pattern with more localized maxima near the major orography and blocking regions. Lateral heat flux divergence by transient eddies as the sum of the two frequency bands exhibits very close coupling with the exact locations of the ocean fronts. Linear regression is used to examine the lead–lag relationship between interannual changes in the northward heat fluxes by the transient eddies and the meridional changes in the paths of the GS, KE, and OE, respectively. One to three years prior to the northward shifts of each ocean front, the atmospheric storm tracks shift northward and intensify, which is consistent with wind-driven changes of the ocean. Following the northward shifts of the ocean fronts, the synoptic storm tracks weaken in all three cases. The zonally integrated northward heat transport by the synoptic transient eddies increases by ~5% of its maximum mean value prior to the northward shift of each ocean front and decreases to a similar amplitude afterward.

Description: Support from the National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) Physical Oceanography Program (NNX09AF35G to TJ and Y-OK) and the Department of Energy (DOE) Climate and Environmental Sciences Division (DE-SC0007052 to Y-OK) is gratefully acknowledged.

Description: 2014-06-15

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2015. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 45 (2015): 606–612, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-14-0221.1.

Description: Mesoscale intrathermocline lenses are observed throughout the World Ocean and are commonly attributed to water mass anomalies advected from a distant origin. An alternative mechanism of local generation is offered herein, in which eddy–wind interaction can create lens-shaped disturbances in the thermocline. Numerical simulations illustrate how eddy–wind-driven upwelling in anticyclones can yield a convex lens reminiscent of a mode water eddy, whereas eddy–wind-driven downwelling in cyclones produces a concave lens that thins the mode water layer (a cyclonic “thinny”). Such transformations should be observable with long-term time series in the interiors of mesoscale eddies.

Description: Support of this research by the National Science Foundation and National Aeronautics and Space Administration is gratefully acknowledged.

Description: 2015-08-01

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2015

Description: The scattering of low-mode internal tides by ocean-floor topography is extensively studied through analytical models and field observations at the Line Islands Ridge (LIR). An existing Green function method is utilized to examine the generation of internal tides by idealized topographic shapes as well as realistic transects of the LIR. The method is also applied to examine the scattering of a mode-1 internal tide at these topographies to determine the relative high mode energy flux due to generated and scattered internal tides at the realistic transects. A method of determining the modal content of an internal wave field is advanced to account for arbitrary stratification and rotation. It is then adjusted to allow for image loss as is common to oceanographic studies. Its performance is compared to the existing regression method widely used by oceanographers to determine the modal content of internal tides. The results from this comparison are used to inform the analysis of the field observations. This thesis concludes by examining the modal content of the LIR as determined from measurements taken during the 150-day EXperiment on Internal Tide Scattering (EXITS) NSF field study. Motivated by satellite altimetry data and three-dimensional numerical model studies, the EXITS cruise sought to observe the internal tide scattering process in the ocean for the first time. The data from three moorings equipped with moored profilers, spanning total depths of 3000-5000 m is analyzed to determine the modal content of the southward propagating internal tide before and after it encounters the ridge for evidence of topographic scattering.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2015. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 45 (2015): 2820–2835, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-15-0101.1.

Description: The response of a convective ocean basin to variations in atmospheric temperature is explored using numerical models and theory. The results indicate that the general behavior depends strongly on the frequency at which the atmosphere changes relative to the local response time to air–sea heat flux. For high-frequency forcing, the convective region in the basin interior is essentially one-dimensional and responds to the integrated local surface heat flux anomalies. For low-frequency forcing, eddy fluxes from the boundary current into the basin interior become important and act to suppress variability forced by the atmosphere. A theory is developed to quantify this time-dependent response and its influence on various oceanic quantities. The amplitude and phase of the temperature and salinity of the convective water mass, the meridional overturning circulation, the meridional heat flux, and the air–sea heat flux predicted by the theory compare well with that diagnosed from a series of numerical model calculations in both strongly eddying and weakly eddying regimes. Linearized analytic solutions provide direct estimates of each of these quantities and demonstrate their dependence on the nondimensional numbers that characterize the domain and atmospheric forcing. These results highlight the importance of mesoscale eddies in modulating the mean and time-dependent ocean response to atmospheric variability and provide a dynamical framework with which to connect ocean observations with changes in the atmosphere and surface heat flux.

Description: This study was supported by the National Science Foundation under Grant OCE-1232389.

Description: 2016-05-01

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2016. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 46 (2016): 2645-2662, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-15-0191.1.

Description: The occurrence, drivers, and implications of small-scale O(2–5) km diameter coherent vortices, referred to as submesoscale eddies, over the inner shelf south of Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts, are examined using high-frequency (HF), radar-based, high-resolution (400 m) observations of surface currents. Within the 300 km2 study area, eddies occurred at rates of 1 and 4 day−1 in winter and summer, respectively. Most were less than 5 h in duration, smaller than 4 km in diameter, and rotated less than once over their lifespan; 60% of the eddies formed along the eastern edge of study area, adjacent to Wasque Shoal, and moved westward into the interior, often with relative vorticity greater than f. Eddy generation was linked to vortex stretching on the ebb and flood tide as well as the interaction of the spatially variable tide and the wind-driven currents; however, these features had complex patterns of surface divergence and stretching. Eddies located away from Wasque Shoal were related to the movement of wind-driven surface currents, as wind direction controlled where eddies formed as well as density effects. Using an analysis of particles advected within the radar-based surface currents, the observed eddies were found to be generally leaky, losing 60%–80% of particles over their lifespan, but still more retentive than the background flow. As a result, the combined translation and rotational effects of the observed eddies were an important source of lateral exchange for surface waters over the inner shelf.

Description: The HF radar data utilized here were obtained using internal funding from the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. The analysis was supported by NSF OCE Grant 1332646.

Description: 2017-02-19

Description: Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2017. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 122 (2017): 3519–3542, doi:10.1002/2016JC012519.

Description: Observations from two companion field programs—Origins of the Kuroshio and Mindanao Current (OKMC) and Observations of Kuroshio Transport Variability (OKTV)—are used here to examine the Kuroshio's temporal and spatial evolution. Kuroshio strength and velocity structure were measured between June 2012 and November 2014 with pressure-sensor equipped inverted echo sounders (PIESs) and upward-looking acoustic Doppler current profilers (ADCPs) deployed across the current northeast of Luzon, Philippines, and east of Taiwan with an 8 month overlap in the two arrays' deployment periods. The time-mean net (i.e., integrated from the surface to the bottom) absolute transport increases downstream from 7.3 Sv (±4.4 Sv standard error) northeast of Luzon to 13.7 Sv (±3.6 Sv) east of Taiwan. The observed downstream increase is consistent with the return flow predicted by the simple Sverdrup relation and the mean wind stress curl field over the North Pacific (despite the complicated bathymetry and gaps along the North Pacific western boundary). Northeast of Luzon, the Kuroshio—bounded by the 0 m s−1 isotach—is shallower than 750 dbar, while east of Taiwan areas of positive flow reach to the seafloor (3000 m). Both arrays indicate a deep counterflow beneath the poleward-flowing Kuroshio (–10.3 ± 2.3 Sv by Luzon and −12.5 ± 1.2 Sv east of Taiwan). Time-varying transports and velocities indicate the strong influence at both sections of westward propagating eddies from the ocean interior. Topography associated with the ridges east of Taiwan also influences the mean and time-varying velocity structure there.

Description: Office of Naval Research (ONR) Grant Numbers: N00014-15-12593 , N00014-16-13069; Taiwan's Ministry of Science and Technology Grant Numbers: NSC 101-2611-M-002-018-MY3 , MOST 103-2611-M-002-011 , MOST 105-2119-M-002-042; ONR Grant Numbers: N00014-10-1-0308 , N00015-10-1-0469

Description: 2017-11-02

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2017. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 47 (2017): 1291-1305, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-16-0160.1.

Description: Along-stream variations in the dynamics of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current (ACC) impact heat and tracer transport, regulate interbasin exchange, and influence closure of the overturning circulation. Topography is primarily responsible for generating deviations from zonal-mean properties, mainly through standing meanders associated with regions of high eddy kinetic energy. Here, an idealized channel model is used to explore the spatial distribution of energy exchange and its relationship to eddy geometry, as characterized by both eddy momentum and eddy buoyancy fluxes. Variations in energy exchange properties occur not only between standing meander and quasi-zonal jet regions, but throughout the meander itself. Both barotropic and baroclinic stability properties, as well as the magnitude of energy exchange terms, undergo abrupt changes along the path of the ACC. These transitions are captured by diagnosing eddy fluxes of energy and by adopting the eddy geometry framework. The latter, typically applied to barotropic stability properties, is applied here in the depth–along-stream plane to include information about both barotropic and baroclinic stability properties of the flow. These simulations reveal that eddy momentum fluxes, and thus barotropic instability, play a leading role in the energy budget within a standing meander. This result suggests that baroclinic instability alone cannot capture the dynamics of ACC standing meanders, a challenge for models where eddy fluxes are parameterized.

Description: The authors all acknowledge support from NSF OCE-1235488. MKY also acknowledges support from the AMS Graduate Student Fellowship.

Description: 2017-10-12

Description: The purpose of this paper is to discuss the nature of the electrical field induced in the ocean by particular types of velocity distribution. It is believed that these examples will be helpful in the interpretation of measurements by towed electrodes in the sea. The electrical field induced by waves and tidal streams, originally predicted by Faraday (1832), was first measured experimentally by Young, Gerrard and Jevons (1920), who used both moored and towed electrodes in their observations. Recently, the technique of towed electrodes has been developed by von Arx (1950, 1951) and others into a useful means of detecting water movements in the deep ocean. While the method has been increasingly used, the problem of interpreting the measurements in terms of water movements has become of great importance. Two of the present authors have made theoretical studies (Longuet-Higgins 1949, Stommel 1948) dealing with certain cases of velocity fields, and Malkus and Stern (1952) have proved some important integral theorems. There seems, however, to be a need for a more extended discussion of the principles underlying the method, and for the computation of additional illustrative examples. This is all the more desirable since some of the theoretical discussions published previously have been misleading.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2007

Description: The role of ocean dynamics in driving air-sea interaction is examined at two contrasting sites on 125°W in the eastern tropical Pacific Ocean using data from the Pan American Climate Study (PACS) field program. Analysis based on the PACS data set and satellite observations of sea surface temperature (SST) reveals marked differences in the role of ocean dynamics in modulating SST. At a near-equatorial site (3°S), the 1997-1998 El Nino event dominated the evolution of SST and surface heat fluxes, and it is found that wind-driven southward Ekman transport was important in the local transition from El Nino to La Nina conditions. At a 10°N site near the summertime position of the Inter-tropical Convergence Zone, oceanic mesoscale motions played an important role in modulating SST at intraseasonal (50- to 100-day) timescales, and the buoy observations suggest that there are variations in surface solar radiation coupled to these mesoscale SST variations. This suggests that the mesoscale oceanic variability may influence the occurrence of clouds. The intraseasonal variability in currents, sea surface height, and SST at the northern site is examined within the broader spatial and temporal context afforded by satellite data. The oscillations have zonal wavelengths of 550-1650 km and propagate westward in a manner consistent with the dispersion relation for first baroclinic mode, free Rossby waves in the presence of a mean westward flow. The hypothesis that the intraseasonal variability and its annual cycle are associated with baroclinic instability of the North Equatorial Current is supported by a spatio-temporal correlation between the amplitude of intraseasonal variability and the occurrence of westward zonal flows meeting an approximate necessary condition for baroclinic instability. Focusing on 10°N in the eastern tropical Pacific, the hypothesis that mesoscale oceanic SST variability can systematically influence cloud properties is investigated using several satellite data products. A statistically significant relationship between SST and columnar cloud liquid water (CLW), cloud reflectivity, and surface solar radiation is identified within the wavenumber-frequency band corresponding to oceanic Rossby waves. Analysis of seven years of CLW data and 20 years surface solar radiation data indicates that 10-20% of the variance of these cloud-related properties at intraseasonal periods and wavelengths on the order of 10° longitude can be ascribed to SST signals driven by oceanic Rossby waves.

Description: I gratefully acknowledge support from the following sources: NOAA Grants NA87RJ0445 (2002-2003) and NA17RJ1223 (2005-2006), and an MIT Presidential Fellowship (2000-2001). I also received support from The Cooperative Institute for Climate and Ocean Research, a NOAA-WHOI joint institute (NOAA Grant NA17RJ1223).

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February, 1980

Description: The structure of the inertial peak in deep ocean kinetic energy spectra is studied here. Records were obtained from Polymode arrays deployed in the Western North Atlantic Ocean (40°W to 70°W, 15°N to 42°N). The results are interpreted both in terms of local sources and of turning point effects on internal waves generated at lower latitudes. In most of the data, there is a prominent inertial peak slightly above f; however, the peak height above the background continuum varies with depth and geographical environment. Three classes of environment and their corresponding spectra emerge from peak height variations: class 1 is the 1500 m level near the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, with the greatest peak height of 18 db; class 2 includes (a) the upper ocean (depth less than 2000 m), (b) the deep ocean (depth greater than 2000 m) over rough topography, and (c) the deep ocean underneath the Gulf Stream, with intermediate peak height of 11.5 db; class 3 is the deep ocean over smooth topography, with the lowest peak height of 7.5 db. Near f, the horizontal coherence scale is 0(60 km) at depths from 200 m to 600 m, and the vertical coherence scale is O(200 m) just below the main thermocline. A one turning point model is developed to describe inertial waves at mid-latitudes, based on the assumption that inertial waves are randomly generated at lower latitudes (global generation) where their frequency-wavenumber spectrum is given by the model of Garrett and Munk (1972 a, 1975). Using the globally valid wave functions obtained by Munk and Phillips (1968), various frequency spectra near f are calculated numerically. The model yields a prominent inertial peak of 7 db in the horizontal velocity spectrum but no peaks in the temperature spectrum. The model is latitudinally dependent: the frequency shift and bandwidth of the inertial peak decrease with latitude; energy level near f is minimum at about 30° and higher at low and high latitudes. The observations of class 3 can be well-described by the model; a low zonal wavenumber cutoff is required to produce the observed frequency shift of the inertial peak. The differences between the global generation model and the observations of class 1 and class 2 are interpreted as the effects of local sources. A locally forced model is developed based on the latitudinal modal decomposition of a localized source function. Asymptotic eigensolutions of the Laplace's tidal equation are therefore derived and used as a set of expansion functions. The forcing is through a vertical velocity field specified at the top or bottom boundaries of the ocean. For white noise forcing, the horizontal velocity spectrum of the response has an inertial peak which diminishes in the far-field. With the forcing located at either the surface or the bottom, several properties of the class 2 observations can be described qualitatively by a combination of the global and local models. The reflection of inertial waves from a turbulent benthic boundary layer is studied by a slab model of given depth. Frictional effects are confined to the boundary layer and modelled by a quadratic drag law. For given incident waves, reflection coefficients are found to be greater than 0.9 for the long waves which contain most of the energy. This result suggests that energy-containing inertial waves can propagate over great distance as is required by the validity of the model of global generation.

Description: This work was supported by the National Science Foundation through grant OCE 76-80210 and its continuation OEE 78-19833.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2007

Description: Surfzone wave height transformation and wave-breaking-driven increases in the mean sea level (setup) are examined on alongshore-uniform beaches with alongshore homogeneous and inhomogeneous wave forcing. While previously derived models predict wave heights adequately (root-mean-square errors typically less than 20%), the models can be improved by tuning a free parameter or by using a new parameterization based on the deep-water wave height. Based on a sensitivity analysis of the cross-shore momentum balance used to predict setup, a one-dimensional (1-D) model is developed that includes wave rollers and bottom stress owing to the mean offshore-directed flow. The model predicts setup accurately at three alongshore homogeneous field sites, as well as at a site where the incident wave field is alongshore non-uniform, suggesting that setup is driven primarily by the cross-shore (1-D) forcing. Furthermore, alongshore gradients of setup can be important to driving alongshore flows in the surfzone, and the 1-D setup model predicts these gradients accurately enough to simulate the observed flows.

Description: I would like to thank the National Science Foundation (OCE-0622844), the Office of Naval Research (G000783, G000782, N00014-99-10193, N00014-02- 10145), the MIT/WHOI Academic Programs Office, and the MIT Presidential Graduate Fellowship Program for their generous support of my research.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Oceanographic Engineer at the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and for the degree of Master of Science in Ocean Engineering at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology February 1979

Description: The development and application of an autonomous field instrumentation system consisting of four current meters and four wave gauges, along with a field monitor and digital recorder, is documented. The flow sensors are electromagnetic current meters, which employ the principle of electromagnetic induction to sense an induced electrical potential from the flow of water through an imposed magnetic field. The 10 cm diameter, discus-shaped sensor was tested in the laboratory under a wide variety of conditions, including both steady and oscillatory flow tests. The results of these tests indicate an excellent response in terms of linearity and horizontal cosine. The vertical cosine response is close to ideal in the region of ±30°, but beyond a negative angle of attack of approximately -30° the response is compromised by the onset of separation under dominantly steady flow conditions. The wave gauges are surface-piercing digital sensors, relying on the presence or absence of water at 128 individual sensing electrodes spaced 1.5 cm apart along the front surface of the wave gauge. On command, the instantaneous water surface elevation is measured, then telemetered digitally to the shorebased monitor and recorder. Field measurements of waves and currents at four stations across the width of the surf zone were made, using this system at a beach along the southern coast of Maine. Spilling breakers (approximately 1.0 m in height with an angle at breaking of about 8°), translated across the 30 m surf zone, generated an observed net longshore current during the four hour measurement period. The subsequently analyzed data from this experiment showed a strong longshore current which varied across the width of the surf zone, having a maximum of about 15 cm/ sec just inside the breaker line. A net offshore current was observed at all four stations, and averaged approximately 10 cm/sec to 15 cm/sec. Using a simplified force balance model for the generation of longshore currents on a plane, uniform beach, the data was further analyzed to investigate the validity and parameterization of the momentum flux forces and bottom friction forces within the surf zone. There was an observed shoreward loss in momentum flux across the width of the surf zone, from about -150,000 dynes/cm outside the breakers to near zero close to the shoreward extent of the surf zone. The computed friction coefficient from the balancing longshore current-induced bottom friction was found to be relatively unstable during periods of changing wave and current conditions, but was observed to be between 0.10 and 0.15 during more stable conditions.

Description: The support of the NOAA Sea Grant Program through the MIT Sea Grant Program, along with the MIT/WHOI Joint Research Seed Funds is acknowledged.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August 1975

Description: This thesis is made of two separate, but interrelated parts. In Part I the instability of a baroclinic Rossby wave in a two-layer ocean of inviscid fluid without topography, is investigated and its results are applied in the ocean. The velocity field of the basic state (the wave) is characterized by significant horizontal and vertical shears, non-zonal currents, and unsteadiness due to its westward propagation. This configuration is more relevant to the ocean than are the steady, zonal 'meteorological' flows, which dominate the literature of baroclinic instability. Truncated Fourier series are used in perturbation analyses. The wave is found to be unstable for a wide range of the wavelength; growing perturbations draw their energy from kinetic or potential energy of the wave depending upon whether the wavelength, 2πL, is much smaller or larger than 2πLρ, respectively, where Lρ is the internal radius of deformation. When the shears are comparable dynamically, L~Lρ , the balance between the two energy transfer processes is very sensitive to the ratios L/Lρ and U/C as well, where U is a typical current speed, and C a typical phase speed of the wave. For L = Lρ they are augmenting if U 〈 C, yet they detract from each other if U 〉 C. The beta-effect tends to stabilize the flow, but perturbations dominated by a zonal velocity can grow irrespective of the beta-effect. It is necessary that growing perturbations are comprised of both barotropic and baroclinic modes vertically. The scale of the fastest growing perturbation is significantly larger than L for barotropically controlled flows (L 〈 Lρ ), reduces to the wave scale L for a mixed kind (L ~ Lρ ) and is fixed slightly larger than Lρ for baroclinically controlled flows (L 〉 Lρ ). Increasing supply of potential energy causes the normalized growth rate, αL/U, to increase monotonically as L → Lρ from below. As L increases beyond Lρ, the growth rate αLρ /U shows a slight increase, but soon approaches an asymptotic value. In a geophysical eddy field like the ocean this model shows possible pumping of energy into the radius of deformation (~ 40 km rational scale, or 250 km wavelength) from both smaller and larger scales through nonlinear interactions, which occur without interference from the beta-effect. The e-folding time scale is about 24 days if U = 5 cm/sec and L = 90 km. Also it is strongly suggested that, given the observed distribution of energy versus length scale, eddy-eddy interactions are more vigorous than eddy-mean interaction, away from intènse currents like the Gulf Stream. The flux of energy toward the deformation scale, and the interaction of barotropic and baroclinic modes, occur also in fully turbulent 'computer' oceans, and these calculations provide a theoretical basis for source of these experimental cascades. In Part II an available potential energy (APE) is defined in terms appropriate to a limited area synoptic density map (e.g., the 'MODE-I' data) and then in terms appropriate to time-series of hydrographic station at a single geographic location (e. g., the 'Panulirus' data). Instantaneously the APE shows highly variable spatial structure, horizontally as well as vertically, but the vertical profile of the average APE from 19 stations resembles the profile of vertical gradient of the reference stratification. The eddy APE takes values very similar to those of the average kinetic energy density at 500 m, 1500 m and 3000 m depth in the MODE area. In and above the thermocline the APE has roughly the same level in the MODE area (centered at 28°N, 69° 40'W) as at the Panulirus station (32° 10'N, 64° 30'W), yet in the deep water there is significantly more APE at the Panulirus station. This may in part indicate an island effect near Bermuda.

Description: This research has been supported by the National Science Foundation grant IDO 73-09737, formerly GX-36342.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution October 1982

Description: Four different problems concerning Gulf Stream Rings are considered. The first deals with the particle trajectories of, and advection-diffusion by, a dynamic model of a Ring. It is found that the streaklines computed from the assumptions that the Ring is a steadily propagating and permanent form structure accurately describe its Lagrangian trajectories. The dispersion field of the Ring produces east-west asymmetries in the streaklines, not contained in earlier kinematic studies, which are consistent with observed surface patterns. In the second problem, we compute the core mixed layer evolution of both warm and cold Rings, and compare them to the background SST, in an effort to explain observed SST cycles of Rings. We demonstrate that warm Rings retain their anomalous surface identity, while cold Rings do not, because of differences in both the local atmospheric states of the Sargasso and the Slope and the typical mixed layer structures appropriate to each. The third and fourth problems concern the forced evolution of Gulf Stream Rings as effected by atmospheric interactions. First, we compute the forced spin down of a Gulf Stream Ring. The variations in surface stress across the Ring necessary to spin it down are caused by the variations in relative air-sea velocity, of which the stress is a quadratric function. From numerical simulations, we find the forced decay rates are comparable to those inferred from Ring observations. In the final problem, it is suggested that a substantial fraction of meridional Ring migration is a forced response, caused by Ring SST and the temperature dependence of stress. The warm central waters of anticyclonic Rings are regions of enhanced stress, producing upwelling to the north, and downwelling to the south, which shifts the Ring to the south. A similar, southward shift is computed for cyclonic Rings with cold centers, which tends to reconcile their numerically computed propagation with observations.

Description: The present research has been conducted under NOAA contract # NA80AA-D-0057 and NSF contract II OCE-8240455

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August 1982

Description: The development of nonlinear surface and internal wave groups is investigated. Surface wave evolution was observed in an unusually long wave channel as a function of steepness and group length. Dissipation and frequency downshifting were important characteristics of the long-time evolution. The amplitude and phase modulations were obtained using the Hilbert transform and specified as an initial condition to the cubic nonlinear Schrodinger equation, which was solved numerically. This equation is known to govern the slowly varying complex modulation envelope of gravity waves on deep water. When dissipation was included, the model compared quite well with the observations. Phase modulation was used to interpret the long-time behavior, using the phase evolution of exact asymptotic solutions as a guide. The wave groups exhibited a long-time coherence but not the recurrence predicted by the inviscid theory. An oceanic field study of the generation of groups of large amplitude internal waves by stratified tidal flow over a submarine ridge indicates that the large amplitude and asymmetry of the topography are critical in determining the type of flow response. The calculated Froude numbers response length scale and duration differ markedly between the two phases of the tide due to the asymmetry.

Description: Research assistantship provided by the Office of Naval Research contract no. N00014-80-C-0273

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2010

Description: Wind waves in the ocean are a product of complex interaction of turbulent air flow with gravity driven water surface. The coupling is strong and the waves are non-stationary, irregular and highly nonlinear, which restricts the ability of traditional phase averaged models to simulate their complex dynamics. We develop a novel phase resolving model for direct simulation of nonlinear broadband wind waves based on the High Order Spectral (HOS) method (Dommermuth and Yue 1987). The original HOS method, which is a nonlinear pseudo-spectral numerical technique for phase resolving simulation of free regular waves, is extended to simulation of wind forced irregular broadband wave fields. Wind forcing is modeled phenomenologically in a linearized framework of weakly interacting spectral components of the wave field. The mechanism of wind forcing is assumed to be primarily form drag acting on the surface through wave-induced distribution of normal stress. The mechanism is parameterized in terms of wave age and its magnitude is adjusted by the observed growth rates. Linear formulation of the forcing is adopted and applied directly to the nonlinear evolution equations. Development of realistic nonlinear wind wave simulation with HOS method required its extension to broadband irregular wave fields. Another challenge was application of the conservative HOS technique to the intermittent non-conservative dynamics of wind waves. These challenges encountered the fundamental limitations of the original method. Apparent deterioration of wind forced simulations and their inevitable crash raised concerns regarding the validity of the proposed modeling approach. The major question involved application of the original HOS low-pass filtering technique to account for the effect of wave breaking. It was found that growing wind waves break more frequently and violently than free waves. Stronger filtering was required for stabilization of wind wave simulations for duration on the time scale of observed ocean evolution. Successful simulations were produced only after significant sacrifice of resolution bandwidth. Despite the difficulties our modeling approach appears to suffice for reproduction of the essential physics of nonlinear wind waves. Phase resolving simulations are shown to capture both - the characteristic irregularity and the observed similarity that emerges from the chaotic motions. Energy growth and frequency downshift satisfy duration limited evolution parameterizations and asymptote Toba similarity law. Our simulations resolve the detailed kinematics and the nonlinear energetics of swell, windsea and their fast transition under wind forcing. We explain the difference between measurements of initial growth driven by a linear instability mechanism and the balanced nonlinear growth. The simulations validate Toba hypothesis of wind-wave nonlinear quasi-equilibrium and confirm its function as a universal bound on combined windsea and swell evolution under steady wind.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2009. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 39 (2009): 1551-1573, doi:10.1175/2008JPO4152.1.

Description: A conceptually simple model is presented for predicting the amplitude and periodicity of eddies generated by a steady poleward outflow in a 1½-layer β-plane formulation. The prediction model is rooted in linear quasigeostrophic dynamics but is capable of predicting the amplitude of the β plume generated by outflows in the nonlinear range. Oscillations in the plume amplitude are seen to represent a near-zero group velocity response to an adjustment process that can be traced back to linear dynamics. When the plume-amplitude oscillations become large enough so that the coherent β plume is replaced by a robust eddy field, the eddy amplitude is still constrained by the plume-amplitude prediction model. The eddy periodicity remains close to that of the predictable, near-zero group-velocity linear oscillations. Striking similarities between the patterns of variability in the model and observations south of Indonesia’s Lombok Strait suggest that the processes investigated in this study may play an important role in the generation of the observed eddy field of the Indo-Australian Basin.

Description: This work was completed at the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution while TS Durland was supported by the Ocean and Climate Change Institute. MA Spall was supported by NSF Grant OCE-0423975 and J Pedlosky by NSF Grant OCE-0451086. TS Durland acknowledges additional report preparation support from NASA Grant NNG05GN98G.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August 2000

Description: The plausibility of local baroclinic instability as a generation mechanism for midocean mesoscale eddies is examined with a two-layer, quasi-geostrophic (QG) model forced by an imposed, horizontally homogeneous, vertically sheared mean flow and dissipated through bottom Ekman friction, Explanations are sought for two observed features of mid-ocean eddies: 1) substantial energy is retained in the baroclinic mode and in the associated deformation radius (Rd) scale, and 2) the ratio of eddy to mean kinetic energy is much larger than one, The tendency of QG to cascade energy into the barotropic mode and into scales larger than Rd can be counteracted when stratification is surface-trapped, for then the baroclinic mode is weakly damped, and hence enhanced, Numerical experiments are performed with both surface-trapped and uniform stratification to quantify this, Experiments with equal Ekman frictions in the two layers are also performed for purposes of contrast, Interpretation is aided with an inequality derived from the energy and enstrophy equations, The inequality forbids the simultaneous retention of substantial energy in the baroclinic mode and in scales near Rd when Ekman friction is symmetric, but points towards surface-trapped stratification and bottomtrapped friction as an environment in which both of these can be achieved, The dissertation also contains a systematic study of geostrophic turbulence forced by nonzonal flows, Narrow zonal jets emerge when shear-induced mean potential vorticity (PV) gradients are small compared to the planetary gradient (β), and energy is a strong function of the angle shear presents to the east-west direction, When shear-induced PV gradients are comparable to β, and the mean shear has a westward component, fields of monopolar vortices form and persist, Energy is asymmetric between fields of cyclones and anticyclones, Such asymmetry was commonly thought not to occur in QG, but is shown here to be introduced by the nonzonal basic state, In both jet and vortex regimes, eddy energy can be much larger than mean kinetic energy, contrary to the expectation that β stabilizes weak shear flows,

Description: My first three years here were funded by an Office of Naval Research/National Defense Science and Engineering Graduate Fellowship administered by Jeff Jarocz at the American Society for Engineering Education. During the last three years, most of my support has come the National Science Foundation via grant OCE-9617848, with some additional support coming from the Office of Naval Research via grant N00014-95-1-0824.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2000

Description: Interest in short waves on the ocean surface has been growing over the last three decades because they play an important role in surface electromagnetic (e.m.) scattering. Currently radars and scatterometers which use e.m. scattering to remotely examine the ocean can produce estimates of the surface wind field, surface currents, and other scientifically important ocean processes. These estimates are based on models which depend on a thorough understanding of electromagnetic scattering mechanisms, and of the three-dimensional surface wave field. Electromagnetic scattering theory is well developed, but the short wavelength portion of the surface wave field has only recently been experimentally explored. A single, consistent, and accurate model of the energy distribution on the ocean surface, also known as the wave height spectrum, has yet to be developed. A new instrument was developed to measure the height of waves with 2-30 cm wavelengths at an array of locations which can be post-processed to generate an estimate of the two-dimensional wave height spectrum. This instrument (a circular wire wave gage buoy) was deployed in an experiment which gathered not only in situ measurements of the two-dimensional wave height spectrum, but also coincident scatterometer measurements, allowing the comparison of current e.m. scattering and surface wave height spectrum models with at sea data. The experiment was conducted at the Buzzards Bay Tower located at the mouth of Buzzards Bay in Massachusetts. A rotating X-band scatterometer, a sonic anemometer, and a capacitive wire wave gage were mounted on the tower. The wave gage buoy was deployed nearby. The resulting data supports a narrowing trend in the two-dimensional spectral width as a function of wavenumber. Two current spectral models support this to some extent, while other models do not. The data also shows a similar azimuthal width for the scatterometer return and the width of the short wavelength portion of the wave height spectrum after it has been averaged and extrapolated out to the appropriate Bragg wavelength. This appears to support current e.m. composite surface (two-scale) theories which suggest that the scattered return from the ocean at intermediate incidence angles is dominated by Bragg scattering which depends principally on the magnitude and shape of the two-dimensional wave height spectrum. However, the mean wind direction (which corresponds well with the peak of the scatterometer energy distribution) and the peak of 20 minute averages of the azimuthal energy distribution were out of alignment in two out of three data sets, once was by nearly 90°. There are a number of tenable explanations for this including instrument physical limitations and the possibility of significant surface currents, but none that would explain such a significant variation. Given that there are so few measurements of short wave directional spectra, however l these results should be considered preliminary in the field and more extensive measurements are required to fully understand the angular distribution of short wave energy and the parameters upon which it depends.

Description: Funding: the MIT Ocean Engineering Department, the WHOI Rienhart Coastal Research Center, the WHOI Education Office, the National Defense Science and Engineering Graduate Fellowship Program, and grant N0001493-1-0726 from the Office of Naval Research.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 1988

Description: This thesis is not subject to U.S. copyright.

Description: A demonstrated need exists for better wind field information over the open ocean, especially as a forcing function for ocean circulation models. Microwave scatterometry, as a means of remotely sensing surface wind information, developed in response to this requirement for a surface wind field with global coverage and improved spatial and temporal resolution. This development led to the 1978 deployment of the SEASAT Satellite Scatterometer (SASS). Evaluations of the three months of SEASAT data have established the consistency of SASS winds with high quality surface wind data from field experiments over limited areas and time periods. The directional ambiguity of the original SASS vectors has been removed by Atlas et al. (1987) for the entire data set, and the resulting SASS winds provide a unique set of scatterometer wind information for a global comparison with winds from conventional sources. A one-month (12 August to 9 September 1978) subset of these dealiased winds, in the western North Atlantic, is compared here with a conventional, pressure-derived wind field from the 6-hourly surface wind analyses of the Fleet Numerical Oceanographic Center (FNOC), Monterey, CA. Through an objective mapping procedure, the irregularly spaced SASS winds are regridded to a latitude-longitude grid, facilitating statistical comparisons with the regularly spaced FNOC wind vectors and wind stress curl calculations. The study includes qualitative comparisons to synoptic weather maps; calculations of field statistics and boxed mean differences; scatter plots of wind speed, direction, and standard deviation; statistical descriptions of the SASS-FNOC difference field, and wind stress curl calculations. The SASS and FNOC fields are consistent with each other in a broad statistical sense, with wide scatter of individual values about a pattern of general agreement. The FNOC wind variances are slightly smaller than the SASS values, reflecting smoothing on larger spatial scales than the SASS winds, and the SASS mean values tend to be slightly higher than the FNOC means, though the increase is frequently lost in the large scatter. Exceptions to the pattern of relatively small consistent variations between the two fields are the pronounced differences associated with extremely strong winds, especially during Hurricane Ella, which traveled up the East Coast of the United States during the latter part of the study period. These large differences are attributed mainly to differences in the inferred positions of the pressure centers and in the response at the highest wind speeds (〉 20m/s). The large statistical differences between the SASS and FNOC fields, present under high wind conditions, may yield significantly different ocean forcing, especially when the strong winds persist over longer periods of time. Under less intense wind conditions, usually prevailing over the ocean, the two fields correspond well statistically and the ocean responses forced by each should be similar.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2012

Description: The purpose of this study is to understand the interactions of tropical cyclones with ocean eddies. In particular we examine the influence of a cold-core eddy on the cold wake formed during the passage of Typhoon Fanapi (2010). The three-dimensional version of the numerical Price–Weller–Pinkel (PWP) vertical mixing model has previously been used to simulate and study the cold wakes of Atlantic hurricanes. The model has not been used in comparison with observations of typhoons in the Western Pacific Ocean. In 2010 several typhoons were studied during the Impact of Typhoons on the Ocean in the Pacific (ITOP) field campaign and Fanapi was particularly well observed. We use these observations and the 3DPWP to understand the ocean cold wake generated by Fanapi. The cold wake of Fanapi was advected by a cyclonic eddy that was south of the typhoon track. The 3DPWP model outputs with and without an eddy are compared with observations made during the field campaign. These observations are compared to model outputs with eddies in a series of positions right and left of the storm track in order to study effects of mesoscale eddies on ocean vertical mixing in the cold wake of typhoons.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2012

Description: This thesis focuses on ocean circulation and atmospheric forcing in the Atlantic Ocean at the Last Glacial Maximum (LGM, 18-21 thousand years before present). Relative to the pre-industrial climate, LGM atmospheric CO2 concentrations were about 90 ppm lower, ice sheets were much more extensive, and many regions experienced significantly colder temperatures. In this thesis a novel approach to dynamical reconstruction is applied to make estimates of LGM Atlantic Ocean state that are consistent with these proxy records and with known ocean dynamics. Ocean dynamics are described with the MIT General Circulation Model in an Atlantic configuration extending from 35°S to 75°N at 1° resolution. Six LGM proxy types are used to constrain the model: four compilations of near sea surface temperatures from the MARGO project, as well as benthic isotope records of δ18O and δ13C compiled byMarchal and Curry; 629 individual proxy records are used. To improve the fit of the model to the data, a least-squares fit is computed using an algorithm based on the model adjoint (the Lagrange multiplier methodology). The adjoint is used to compute improvements to uncertain initial and boundary conditions (the control variables). As compared to previous model-data syntheses of LGM ocean state, this thesis uses a significantly more realistic model of oceanic physics, and is the first to incorporate such a large number and diversity of proxy records. A major finding is that it is possible to find an ocean state that is consistent with all six LGM proxy compilations and with known ocean dynamics, given reasonable uncertainty estimates. Only relatively modest shifts from modern atmospheric forcing are required to fit the LGM data. The estimates presented herein successfully reproduce regional shifts in conditions at the LGM that have been inferred from proxy records, but which have not been captured in the best available LGM coupled model simulations. In addition, LGM benthic δ18O and δ13C records are shown to be consistent with a shallow but robust Atlantic meridional overturning cell, although other circulations cannot be excluded.

Description: Primary support was provided by a National Defense Science and Engineering Graduate Fellowship and two National Science Foundation awards: Award #OCE-0645936: “Beyond the Instrumental Record: the Case of Circulation at the Last Glacial Maximum” and Award #OCE-1060735: “Collaborative Research: Beyond the Instrumental Record - the Ocean Circulation at the Last Glacial Maximum and the de-Glacial Sequence”. Important secondary support came from the National Ocean Partnership Program and the National Aeronautics and Space Administration via the ECCO effort at MIT.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2014

Description: Recent work has documented dramatic changes in the West Antarctic Ice Sheet (WAIS) over the past 30 years (e.g., mass loss, glacier acceleration, surface warming) due largely to the influence of the marine environment. WAIS is particularly vulnerable to largescale atmospheric dynamics that remotely influence the transport of marine aerosols to the ice sheet. Understanding seasonal- to decadal-scale changes in the marine influence on WAIS (particularly sea-ice concentration) is vital to our ability to predict future change. In this thesis, I develop tools that enable us to reconstruct the source and transport variability of marine aerosols to West Antarctica in the past. I validate new firn-core sea-ice proxies over the satellite era; results indicate that firn-core glaciochemical records from this dynamic region may provide a proxy for reconstructing Amundsen Sea and Pine Island Bay polynya variability prior to the satellite era. I next investigate the remote influence of tropical Pacific variability on marine aerosol transport to West Antarctica. Results illustrate that both source and transport of marine aerosols to West Antarctica are controlled by remote atmospheric forcing, linking local dynamics (e.g., katabatic winds) with large-scale teleconnections to the tropics (e.g., Rossby waves). Oxygen isotope records allow me to further investigate the relationship between West Antarctic firn-core records and temperature, precipitation origin, sea-ice variability, and large-scale atmospheric circulation. I show that the tropical Pacific remotely influences the source and transport of the isotopic signal to the coastal ice sheet. The regional firn-core array reveals a spatially varying response to remote tropical Pacific forcing. Finally, I investigate longer-term (~200 year) ocean and ice-sheet changes using the methods and results gleaned from the previous work. I utilize sea-ice proxies to reconstruct long-term changes in sea-ice and polynya variability in the Amundsen Sea, and show that the tropics remotely influence West Antarctica over decadal timescales. This thesis utilizes some of the highest-resolution, most coastal records in the region to date, and provides some of the first analyses of the seasonal- to decadal-scale controls on source and transport of marine aerosols to West Antarctica.

Description: This research was supported by an award from the Department of Energy Office of Science Graduate Fellowship Program (DOE SCGF) to ASC, a James E. and Barbara V. Moltz Research Fellowship, and by grants from the National Science Foundation Office of Polar Programs (NSF-OPP; #ANT-0632031 & #ANT-0631973), the National Science Foundation Major Research Instrumentation Program (NSF-MRI; #EAR-1126217), the NASA Cryosphere Program (#NNX10AP09G), and a WHOI Andrew W. Mellon Foundation Award for Innovative Research.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2014. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 44 (2014): 229–245, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-12-0218.1.

Description: Data from a mooring deployed at the edge of the East Greenland shelf south of Denmark Strait from September 2007 to October 2008 are analyzed to investigate the processes by which dense water is transferred off the shelf. It is found that water denser than 27.7 kg m−3—as dense as water previously attributed to the adjacent East Greenland Spill Jet—resides near the bottom of the shelf for most of the year with no discernible seasonality. The mean velocity in the central part of the water column is directed along the isobaths, while the deep flow is bottom intensified and veers offshore. Two mechanisms for driving dense spilling events are investigated, one due to offshore forcing and the other associated with wind forcing. Denmark Strait cyclones propagating southward along the continental slope are shown to drive off-shelf flow at their leading edges and are responsible for much of the triggering of individual spilling events. Northerly barrier winds also force spilling. Local winds generate an Ekman downwelling cell. Nonlocal winds also excite spilling, which is hypothesized to be the result of southward-propagating coastally trapped waves, although definitive confirmation is still required. The combined effect of the eddies and barrier winds results in the strongest spilling events, while in the absence of winds a train of eddies causes enhanced spilling.

Description: The authors wish to thank Paula Fratantoni, Frank Bahr, and Dan Torres for processing the mooring data. The mooring array was capably deployed by the crew of the R/V Arni Fridriksson and recovered by the crew of the R/V Knorr. We thank Hedinn Valdimarsson for his assistance in the field work. Ken Brink provided valuable insights regarding the dynamics of shelf waves. Funding for the study was provided by National Science Foundation Grant OCE-0722694, the Arctic Research Initiative of the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. We also wish to thank the Natural Environment Research Council for Ph.D. studentship funding, and the University of East Anglia’s Roberts Fund and Royal Meteorological Society for supporting travel for collaboration.

Description: 2014-07-01

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2015. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 45 (2015): 1822–1842, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-14-0147.1.

Description: Influences of time-dependent precipitation on water mass transformation and heat budgets in an idealized marginal sea are examined using theoretical and numerical models. The equations proposed by Spall in 2012 are extended to cases with time-dependent precipitation whose form is either a step function or a sinusoidal function. The theory predicts the differences in temperature and salinity between the convective water and the boundary current as well as the magnitudes of heat fluxes into the marginal sea and across the sea surface. Moreover, the theory reveals that there are three inherent time scales: relaxation time scales for temperature and salinity and a precipitation time scale. The relaxation time scales are determined by a steady solution of the theoretical model with steady precipitation. The relaxation time scale for temperature is always smaller than that for salinity as a result of not only the difference in the form of fluxes at the surface but also the variation in the eddy transport from the boundary current. These three time scales and the precipitation amplitude determine the strength of the ocean response to changes in precipitation and the phase relation between precipitation, changes in salinity and temperature, and changes in heat fluxes. It is demonstrated that the theoretical predictions agree qualitatively well with results from the eddy-resolving numerical model. This demonstrates the fundamental role of mesoscale eddies in the ocean response to time-dependent forcing and provides a framework with which to assess the extent to which observed variability in marginal sea convection and water mass transformation are consistent with an external forcing by variations in precipitation.

Description: This work was initiated at the 2013 WHOI Geophysical Fluid Dynamics Summer Program, which was supported by the National Science Foundation and the Office of Naval Research. This work was also supported by Grant-in-Aid for Research Fellow (25·8466) of the Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports and Technology (MEXT), Japan, the Program for Leading Graduate Schools, MEXT, Japan (YY), and by the National Science Foundation Grant OCE-1232389 (MAS).

Description: 2016-01-01

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2016

Description: Eddies in the ocean move westwards. Those shed by western boundary currents must then interact with continental shelf-slope topography at the western boundary. The presence of other eddies and mean lows complicates this simple picture, yet satellite images show that mesoscale eddies translating near the shelfbreak routinely affect the continental shelves of the Mid-Atlantic Bight, the Gulf of Mexico etc. The consequent cross-shelfbreak transports are currently of unknown importance to shelf budgets of heat, salt and volume. Thus motivated, this thesis uses idealized continuously stratified numerical experiments to explore eddy-slope interactions under four questions: 1. Can the continental slope prevent an eddy from reaching the shelfbreak? 2. What is the structure of the eddy-driven offshore low? 3. How is the continental shelf affected by an eddy at the shelfbreak? 4. Given surface observations, can one estimate the volume of water transported across the shelfbreak? The experiments show that the efficiency of Rossby wave radiation from the eddy controls whether it can cross isobaths: by radiating energy the eddy becomes shallow enough to move into shallower water. For wide continental slopes, relative to an eddy diameter, a slope can prevent an anticyclone from reaching the shelfbreak by shutting down such radiation. For narrow continental slopes, the interaction repeatedly produces dipoles, whose cyclonic halves contain shelf-slope water stacked over eddy water. The formation of such cyclones is explained. Then, the structure of shelf lows forced by the eddy are studied: their vertical structures are rationalized and scalings derived for their cross-isobath scales; for example, the extent to which the eddy influences the shelf. A recipe for estimating cross-isobath transports based on eddy surface properties is put forward. Finally, the findings are tested against observations in the Middle Atlantic Bight of the northeastern United States.

Description: I acknowledge high-performance computing support from Yellowstone (ark:/85065/d7wd3xhc) provided by NCAR’s Computational and Information Systems Laboratory, sponsored by the National Science Foundation. The research presented here was funded by National Science Foundation grants OCE-1059632 and OCE-1433953. Funding support from the Academic Programs Oice, WHOI is also gratefully acknowledged.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2018. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 48 (2018): 773-794, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-17-0205.1.

Description: Fourteen autonomous profiling floats, equipped with CTDs, were deployed in the deep eastern and western basins of the Gulf of Mexico over a four-year interval (July 2011–August 2015), producing a total of 706 casts. This is the first time since the early 1970s that there has been a comprehensive survey of water masses in the deep basins of the Gulf, with better vertical resolution than available from older ship-based surveys. Seven floats had 14-day cycles with parking depths of 1500 m, and the other half from the U.S. Argo program had varying cycle times. Maps of characteristic water masses, including Subtropical Underwater, Antarctic Intermediate Water (AAIW), and North Atlantic Deep Water, showed gradients from east to west, consistent with their sources being within the Loop Current (LC) and the Yucatan Channel waters. Altimeter SSH was used to characterize profiles being in LC or LC eddy water or in cold eddies. The two-layer nature of the deep Gulf shows isotherms being deeper in the warm anticyclonic LC and LC eddies and shallower in the cold cyclones. Mixed layer depths have an average seasonal signal that shows maximum depths (~60 m) in January and a minimum in June–July (~20 m). Basin-mean steric heights from 0–50-m dynamic heights and altimeter SSH show a seasonal range of ~12 cm, with significant interannual variability. The translation of LC eddies across the western basin produces a region of low homogeneous potential vorticity centered over the deepest part of the western basin.

Description: The authors were supported by the Department of the Interior, Bureau of Ocean Energy Management (BOEM), Contract M08PC20043 to Leidos, Inc., Raleigh, North Carolina.

Description: 2018-10-04

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September, 1976

Description: Measurements of horizontal and vertical current by propeller cluster current meters and temperature by thermistors mounted on a rigid array 8 m high and 20 m long moored in the oceanic main thermocline near Bermuda are interpreted in terms of thermocline-trapped internal wave modes in the presence of temperature and density fine-structure. Two turning-point uniformly valid asymptotic solutions to the internal wave equation are developed to describe the wave functions. Mode decay beyond the turning point in depth or frequency produces a sharp cutoff in vertical current spectra above the local buoyancy frequency N(z). An internal wave wavenumber-frequency spectral model Ε(α,ω) = E(ω/No)-2 (α./α0)-2 describes vertical current spectra and potential energy to horizontal kinetic energy ratios. The red wavenumer shape suppresses peaks in both these quantities at frequencies near N(z). The data are consistent with time-averaged horizontal isotropy of the wave field. A dip in the vertical current spectra at 0.5 cph not predicted by the model appears related to the bottom slope. Temperature fine-structure is modeled as a passive vertical field advected by internal waves. Quasi-permanent fine-scale features of the stratification and vertically small-scale internal waves are indistinguishable in this study. The model of McKean (1974) is generalized to include fine-structure fields specified by their vertical wavenumber spectra as well as different Poisson-distributed layer models. Together with the trapped internal wave model, moored temperature spectra, temperature vertical difference spectra, and coherence over vertical separations are described using a fine-structure vertical wavenumber spectrum PT(k) =ATk-5/2 which agrees with other spectra made using vertical profiling instruments in the range 0.1 to 1.0 cpm. Horizontal current fine-structure is also modeled as a passive field advected vertically by long internal waves. The model describes moored horizontal current spectra (least successfully at frequencies near N(z)) and finite-difference vertical shear spectra. Contours of temperature in depth versus time indicate possible mixing events. These events appear concurrently with high shear and Richardson numbers O. 25≤ R ≤ 1.0. Over 7 m a cutoff in Ri at 0.25 is observed, indicating saturation of the internal wave spectrum. Spectra of finite-difference approximations to shear and buoyancy frequency are dominated by fine-structure contributions over nearly the whole internal wave range, suggesting that breaking is enhanced by fine-structure. Breaking appears equally likely at all frequencies in the internal wave range.

Description: This research was supported by Office of Naval Research contract N00014-67-0204-0047 and continuation contract NOOOl4-75-C-0291.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 1980

Description: The existence of resonant, baroclinic, equatorially-trapped inertia-gravity waves (discovered by Wunsch and Gill (1976)) is confirmed in the mid-Pacific by spectral analysis of long sea level records. The energy of the low-mode inertia-gravity waves is found to decrease toward the meridional boundaries. A simple spectral model, acknowledging the dispersive characteristics of the equatorial waves, adequately reproduces the observed mid-Pacific sea level spectra in the 1-6 day band. Model spectra computed at latitudes outside the equatorial waveguide of the gravest meridional modes suggest the presence of "inertial" peaks in several observed sea level spectra. Resonant, low-mode inertia-gravity waves may also exist in the Indian Ocean. Sea level fluctuations along the Pacific equator are found to have Kelvin wave characteristics in the 35-80 day band, and, in particular, propagation from the western Pacific to the coast of South America is observed. The Kelvin waves are atmospherically-forced in the central- western Pacific and have a computed equivalent depth corresponding to the first-baroc1inic mode. Outside of the equatorial mid-Pacific, a non-static ocean response to air pressure in the 4-6 day band is dominated by a basin-wide, barotropic, planetary mode. The low Q of this mode suggests that the ocean is viscous with respect to large-scale barotropic oscillations. The dynamical components of the observed long-period tides have been isolated for the first time using the "self-consistent" equilibrium tide of Agnew and Farrell (1978). The tides are slightly non-equilibrium with large horizontal scales. The relatively short-scale Rossby modes predicted by Wunsch (1967) are not observed, perhaps because of the poor spatial coverage of the dataset. Considering the low Q of the 4-6 day planetary basin mode, it is suggested that the long-period tides are frictionally-controlled. The 4- and 5-day equatorial inertia-gravity waves, the 35-80 day Kelvin waves and the 4-6 day planetary basin mode are clearly atmospherically forced, and, perhaps surprisingly, they are forced by atmospheric waves that have similar horizontal structures, i.e., 4-5 day Rossby-gravity waves, 40-50 day Kelvin waves and a 5-day global barotropic mode. The surface expressions of these atmospheric waves are determined in order to understand the nature of the oceanic response, e.g., resonant or forced. Much of the information about the surface atmospheric fields that has been collected, including frequency-wavenumber descriptions, awaits an accurate model of the coupling between wind stress and internal ocean waves.

Description: Monetary support for this research was provided by the National Science Foundation through contract OCE73-0l384. At various times, tuition and living expenses were paid by funds from the NSF contract above, the Office of Naval Research (contract N00014-C-75-029l), the Cecil and Ida Green Professorship in Earth Sciences, the J. P. Luther Educational Fund and by an M.I.T. Educational Tuition Award.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2003

Description: The importance of eddies and nonlinearities in ß-plume dynamics in the deep ocean was investigated using reduced gravity models of the deep ocean forced by a small region of cross isopycnal transport in the interior. The effect of topography on ß-plumes was also examined by placing a Gaussian bump in the forcing region. Despite the fact that the mean flow is weak in the deep ocean interior, it was found that the nonlinearity and instabilities are still important for realistic parameter and forcing values. The flow was dominated by eddies and was remarkably different from what would be expected from a linear solution.

Description: This study was supported by Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Academic Programs Office Fellowship and National Science Foundation Grant 89542700.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution December 1997

Description: A new tomographic technique is employed to investigate the structure and dynamics of the Pacific upper mantle. We invert band-center travel times of ScS reverberations and frequency-dependent travel times of direct S phases, upper-mantle guided waves such as SS and SSS, and the R1 and G1 surface waves for the 2D composite structure in the plane of two Pacific corridors. The frequency-dependent travel times of the turning and surface waves are measured from all three components of ground motion as phase delays relative to a radially-anisotropic, spherically-symmetric oceanic mantle model, and their 2D Fréchet kernels are constructed by a coupled-mode algorithm. The travel times of the primary ScSn and sScSn phases and their first-order reverberations from the 410 and 660 discontinuities are measured as individual phases and the 2D Fréchet kernels for these band-limited signals are calculated using the paraxial ray approximation. The model parameters include shear-speed variations throughout the mantle, perturbations to radial shear-wave anisotropy in the uppermost mantle, and the topography of the 410 and 660 discontinuities. We construct vertical tomograms through two mantle corridors: one between the Tonga subduction zone and Oahu, Hawaii, which traverses the central Pacific Ocean; and the other between the Ryukyu subduction zone and Oahu, which samples the northern Philippine Sea, the western Pacific, and the entire Hawaiian swell. Tests demonstrate that the data sets for the two corridors resolve the lateral structure in the upper mantle with a scale length of a few hundreds kilometers and greater but that the resolving power decreases rapidly in the lower mantle. The model for the Tonga-Hawaii corridor reveals several interesting features, the most significant being a regular pattern of high and low shear velocities in the upper mantle between Tonga and Hawaii. These variations, which are well resolved by the data set, have a horizontal wavelength of 1500 km, a vertical dimension of 700 km, and an amplitude of about 3%, and they show a strong positive correlation with seafloor topography and geoid-height variations along this corridor. The geoid highs correspond to a series of northwest-trending swells associated with the major hotspots of the Society, Marquesas, and Hawaiian Islands. Where these swells cross the corridor, they are underlain by high shear velocities throughout the uppermost mantle, so it is unlikely that their topography is supported by thermal buoyancy. This result is substantiated by the model from the Ryukyu-Hawaii corridor, which exhibits a prominent, fast region that extends beneath the entire Hawaiian swell. This anomaly, which resides in the uppermost 200-300 km of the mantle, is also positively correlated with the undulations of the Hawaiian-swell height. The other dominant features in the Ryukyu-Hawaii model include the high-velocity subducting slabs beneath the Ryukyu and Izu-Bonin seismic zones, which extend throughout the entire upper mantle; a very low-velocity in the uppermost 160 km of the mantle beneath the northern Philippine Sea, which is ascribed to the presence of extra water in this region; and a pronounced minimum in the amount of radial anisotropy near Hawaii, which is also seen along the Tonga-Hawaii corridor. A joint inversion of the data from the two corridors reveals the same anomaly pattern and clearly demonstrates that the swells in the Central Pacific are underlain by fast velocities. It is therefore implied that the topography of the swells in the central Pacific is supported by a chemical buoyancy mechanism which is generated by basaltic volcanism and the formation of its low-density peridotitic residuum. While the basaltic depletion mechanism can produce high shear velocities in the uppermost 200 km, it cannot explain the depth extent of the fast anomalies beneath the swells which, along Tonga-Hawaii corridor, extend well into the transition zone. It is therefore hypothesized that the central Pacific is underlain by a system of convective rolls that are confined above the 660-km discontinuity. It is likely that these rolls are predominantly oriented in the direction of plate motion (like "Richter rolls ") but the limited depth of the fast anomaly beneath the Hawaiian swell (200-300 km) suggests that their pattern is probably more complicated. Nevertheless, this convection pattern appears to be strongly correlated with the locations of the Tahitian, Marquesan, and Hawaiian hotspots, which raises interesting questions for Morgan's hypothesis that these hotspots are the surface manifestations of deep-mantle plumes.

Description: This research was supported by the National Science Foundation under grant EAR- 9628351 and by the Defense Special Weapons Agency under grant DSW A-F49620-95-1- 0051.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2007

Description: Observations of current velocity, temperature, salinity and pressure from a 2-year moored array deployment and four hydrographic cruises conducted by the United States Southern Ocean GLOBEC program on the western Antarctic Peninsula continental shelf are used to characterize the ocean circulation and its connection to fresh water and heat fluxes on the shelf. Mean velocities on the shelf are of the order of 5 cm/s or less. Tidal motions are dominated by the M2 and S2 semi-diurnal tides and the O1 and K1 diurnal tides, although the tidal velocities are typically less than 2 cm/s. Near-inertial motions are relatively large, with current velocities as high as 26 cm/s. It is shown that Marguerite Trough, a large bathymetric feature connecting the shelf-break to Marguerite Bay, plays a critical role in determining the circulation. The mean flow is strongly steered in the along-slope direction, and the tidal currents also show increasing current polarization at depth in Marguerite Trough. At timescales of 5 to 20 days, the observations show bottom-intensified motion in Marguerite Trough consistent with bottom-trapped topographic Rossby waves. The subtidal circulation in the trough has a significant wind-driven component in Marguerite Trough, with downwelling-favorable winds forcing cross-shelf flow on the northern side of the trough and along the shore on the outer shelf. Upwelling-favorable winds force roughly the opposite circulation. The cyclonic circulation on the trough helps advect blobs of salty, warm and nutrient-rich water across the shelf. These intrusions are small (≈4 km) and frequent (4 events/month). Also, the Antarctic Peninsula Coastal Current (APCC), a coastal buoyant current which is described for the first time here. The APCC is a seasonal current which is only present during the ice-free season and is forced by freshwater fluxes associated with large glacier melt and precipitation rates in the region.

Description: Thanks goes to the agencies who made this thesis possible: the National Science Foundation Office of Polar programs through U.S. Southern Ocean GLOBEC grants OPP 99-10092 and 06-23223, the Chilean government through its Presidential Fellowship program and the Coastal Ocean Institute and the Cooperative Institute for Climate and Ocean Research.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 1996

Description: Nonlinear quasigeostrophic flows in two layers over a topographic slope are considered. The evolution depends on the size of two parameters which indicate the degree of nonlinearity at depth. The first measures the importance of relative vorticity advection and the second of stretching vorticity. Two types of isolated vortex are used to examine the parameter dependence. An initially barotropic vortex remains barotropic only when the first parameter is large, otherwise topographic waves dominate at depth. An Initially surface-trapped vortex larger than deformation scale is baroclinically unstable when the second is large, but is stabilized by the slope otherwise. Both parameters are also relevant to cascading geostrophic turbulence. If the stretching parameter is large, a "barotropic cascade" occurs at the deformation radius (Rhines, 1977) and the cascade "arrests" when the relative vorticity parameter is order unity. If small, layer coupling is hindered and the cascade is arrested at the deformation scale, with the flow dominated by isotropic surface vortices. In both cases, the distinction between vortices and waves is transparent when viewing potential vorticity. It is more difficult to identify waves and vortices from the streamfunction fields, because the waves are present in both layers.

Description: Funding for this research was provided by Office of Naval Research Coastal Science Code, grants N00014-92-J-1643 and N00014-92-J-1528.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution June 2008

Description: This study presents observations of turbulence dynamics made during the low winds portion of the Coupled Boundary Layers and Air-Sea Transfer experiment (CBLAST-Low). Observations were made of turbulent fluxes, turbulent kinetic energy, and the length scales of flux-carrying and energy-containing eddies in the ocean surface boundary layer. A new technique was developed to separate wave and turbulent motions spectrally, using ideas for turbulence spectra that were developed in the study of the bottom boundary layer of the atmosphere. The observations of turbulent fluxes allowed the closing of heat and momentum budgets across the air-sea interface. The observations also show that flux-carrying eddies are similar in size to those expected in rigid-boundary turbulence, but that energy-containing eddies are smaller than those in rigid-boundary turbulence. This suggests that the relationship between turbulent kinetic energy, depth, and turbulent diffusivity are different in the ocean surface boundary layer than in rigid-boundary turbulence. The observations confirm previous speculation that surface wave breaking provides a surface source of turbulent kinetic energy that is transported to depth where it dissipates. A model that includes the effects of shear production, wave breaking and dissipation is able to reproduce the enhancement of turbulent kinetic energy near the wavy ocean surface. However, because of the different length scale relations in the ocean surface boundary layer, the empirical constants in the energy model are different from the values that are used to model rigid-boundary turbulence. The ocean surface boundary layer is observed to have small but finite temperature gradients that are related to the boundary fluxes of heat and momentum, as assumed by closure models. However, the turbulent diffusivity of heat in the surface boundary layer is larger than predicted by rigid-boundary closure models. Including the combined effects of wave breaking, stress, and buoyancy forcing allows a closure model to predict the turbulent diffusivity for heat in the ocean surface boundary layer.

Description: This work was supported by Office of Naval Research grants N00014-00-1-0409, N00014-01-1-0029, and N00014-03-1-0681, the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Academic Programs Office, and National Aeronautics and Space Administration grant NAG5-11933.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August 1985

Description: Using the maximum-likelihood estimation method and minimization techniques, quasi-geostrophic wave solutions were fitted to the observations of the 1981 Ocean Acoustic Tomography Experiment. The experiment occupied a 300 km square area centered at 26°N, 70°W, and had a duration of ~80 days. The data set consisted of acoustic travel-time records, temperature records and CTD profiles, obtained from the acoustic tomographic array, moored temperature sensors and recorders, and ship surveys, respectively. While the latter two were conventional spot measurements, the former corresponds to integral measurements of the temperature (or sound-speed) field. The optimal fit to the data corresponded to 3 waves in the first baroclinic mode, evolving under the presence of a westward mean flow with vertical shear. The flow was estimated to be weak (~2 cm/s), but it changed the wave periods significantly by producing large Doppler shifts. The waves were dynamically stable to the mean flow, had weak nonlinear interactions with each other and did not form a resonant traid; thus they constituted a fully linear solution. Evidence for the existence of the waves was strongly supported by the high correlation (~0.9) between the data and the fit, the large amount of signal energy resolved (~80 percent), the excellent quality of the wave-parameter estimate (only about 10 percent in error), and the general agreement between the observations and quasi-geostrophic linear dynamics.

Description: My financial support for the first two years came from the Education Office at W.H.O.I. My dissertation research was supported by ONR Grant NOOOl4-82-C0019.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution May 1990

Description: The importance of wave breaking in both microwave remote sensing and air-sea interaction has led to this investigation of the utility of a Ku-Band CW Doppler scatterometer to detect and characterize wave breaking in the open ocean. Field and laboratory measurements by previous authors of microwave backscatter from sharp-crested and breaking waves have shown that these events can exhibit characteristic signatures in moderate incidence angle measurements of the radar cross-section (RCS) and Doppler spectrum. Specifically, breaking events have been associated with polarization independent sea spikes in the RCS accompanied by increased mean frequency and bandwidth of the Doppler spectrum. Simultaneous microwave, video, and environmental measurements were made during the SAXON experiment off Chesapeake Bay in the fall of 1988. The scatterometer was pointed upwind with an incidence angle of 45 degrees and an illumination area small compared to the wavelength of the dominant surface waves. An autocovariance estimation technique was used to produced time series of the RCS, mean Doppler frequency, and Doppler spectral bandwidth in real-time. The joint statistics of the microwave quantities indicative of breaking are used to investigate detection schemes for breaking events identified from the video recordings. The most successful scheme is based on thresholds in both the RCS and the Doppler bandwidth determined from joint distributions for breaking and non-breaking waves. Microwave events consisting of a sea spike in the RCS accompanied by a large bandwidth are associated with the steep forward face of waves in the early stages of breaking. The location of the illumination area with respect to the phase of the breaking wave, the stage of breaking development, and the orientation of an individual crest with respect to the antenna look-direction all influence the detect ability of a breaking event occurring in the vicinity of the radar spot. Since sea spikes tend to occur on the forward face of waves in the process of breaking, the whitecap associated with a given sea spike may occur after the crest of the wave responsible for the sea spike has passed the center of the illumination area. Approximately 70% of the waves which produce whitecaps within a distance of 5m of the bore sight location are successfully identified by a threshold-based detection scheme utilizing both RCS and bandwidth information. The sea spike statistics are investigated as functions of wave field parameters and friction velocity u*. For VV and HH polarization, the frequency of sea spike occurrence and the sea spike contribution to the mean RCS show an approximately cubic dependence on u*, which is consistent with theoretical modelling and various measures of whitecap coverage. The data also suggest that the average RCS of an individual sea spike is not dependent on u*. At high friction velocities (u*≈40-50cms-l), the contribution of sea spikes to the mean RCS is in the range of 5-10% for VV and 10-20% for HH. The wind speed dependence of the percentage of crests producing sea spikes is comparable to that of the fraction of breaking crests reported by previous authors. The percentage of wave crests producing sea spikes is found to vary approximately as (Re*)1.5, where Re* is a Reynolds number based on u* and the dominant surface wavelength. This result agrees with measurements of the degree of wave breaking by. previous authors and is shown to be consistent with a cubic dependence on u *. Models for the probability of wave breaking as a function of moments of the wave height spectrum are compared to our results. The Doppler frequency and bandwidth measurements are also used to inquire into the kinematics of the breaking process.

Description: This work was funded by grants from the MIT Sloan Basic Research Fund, the National Science Foundation (Physical Oceanography), and the Office of Naval Research (Physical Oceanography). Additional funding was provided by the National Aeronautics and Space Administration through the Graduate Student Researchers' Fellowship Program.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution January 1987

Description: Garrett and Munk use linear dynamics to synthesize frequency-wavenumber energy spectra for internal waves (GM72, GM75, GM79). The GM internal wave models are horizontally isotropic, vertically symmetric, purely propagating, and universal in both time and space. This set of properties effectively eliminates all the interesting physics, since such models do not allow localized sources and sinks of energy. Thus an important step in understanding internal wave dynamics is to make measurements of deviations from the simple GM models. This thesis continues the search for deviations from the GM models. It has three advantages over earlier work: extensive data from an equatorial region, long time series (2 years), and relatively sophisticated linear internal wave models. Since the GM models are based on mid-latitude data, having data from an equatorial region which has a strong mean current system offers an opportunity to examine a region with a distinctly different basic state. The longer time series mean there is a larger statistical ensemble of realizations, making it possible to detect smaller internal wave signals. The internal wave models include several important extensions to the GM models: horizontal anisotropy and vertical asymmetry, resolution between standing modes and propagating waves, general vertical structure, and kinematic effects of mean shear flow. Also investigated are the effects of scattering on internal waves, effects that are especially strong on the equator because the buoyancy frequency variability is a factor of ten higher than at mid-latitudes. In the high frequency internal wave field considered (frequencies between .125 cph and .458 cph), several features are found that are not included in the GM models. Both the kinematic effects of a mean shear flow and the phase-locking that distinguishes standing modes from propagating waves are observed. There is a seasonal dependence in energy level of roughly 10% of the mean level. At times the wave field is zonally and vertically asymmetric, with resulting energy fluxes that are a small (4% to 10%) fraction of the maximum energy flux the internal wave field could support. The fluxes are, however, as big as many of the postulated sources of energy for the internal wave field.

Description: This work has been supported under grants from the National Science Foundation and the Office of Naval Research, grants numbered NSF-89076, ONR-88914, NSF-9l002, NSF-94971, and NSF-93661.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2010. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 40 (2010): 2341–2347, doi:10.1175/2010JPO4465.1.

Description: The mean downwelling in an eddy-resolving model of a convective basin is concentrated near the boundary where eddies are shed from the cyclonic boundary current into the interior. It is suggested that the buoyancy-forced downwelling in the Labrador Sea and the Lofoten Basin is similarly concentrated in analogous eddy formation regions along their eastern boundaries. Use of a transformed Eulerian mean depiction of the density transport reveals the central role eddy fluxes play in maintaining the adiabatic nature of the flow in a nonperiodic region where heat is lost from the boundary current. The vorticity balance in the downwelling region is primarily between stretching of planetary vorticity and eddy flux divergence of relative vorticity, although a narrow viscous boundary layer is ultimately important in closing the regional vorticity budget. This overall balance is similar in some ways to the diffusive–viscous balance represented in previous boundary layer theories, and suggests that the downwelling in convective basins may be properly represented in low-resolution climate models if eddy flux parameterizations are adiabatic, identify localized regions of eddy formations, and allow density to be transported far from the region of eddy formations.

Description: This study was supported by the National Science Foundation under Grants OCE-0726339 and OCE-0850416.

Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2009. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 39 (2009): 3162-3175, doi:10.1175/2009JPO4239.1.

Description: This study analyzes anisotropic properties of the material transport by eddies and eddy-driven zonal jets in a general circulation model of the North Atlantic through the analysis of Lagrangian particle trajectories. Spreading rates—defined here as half the rate of change in the particle dispersion—in the zonal direction systematically exceed the meridional rates by an order of magnitude. Area-averaged values for the upper-ocean zonal and meridional spreading rates are approximately 8100 and 1400 m2 s−1, respectively, and in the deep ocean they are 2400 and 200 m2 s−1. The results demonstrate that this anisotropy is mainly due to the action of the transient eddies and not to the shear dispersion associated with the time-mean jets. This property is consistent with the fact that eddies in this study have zonally elongated shapes. With the exception of the upper-ocean subpolar gyre, eddies also cause the superdiffusive zonal spreading, significant variations in the spreading rate in the vertical and meridional directions, and the difference between the westward and eastward spreading.

Description: Funding for IK was provided by NSF Grants OCE 0346178, 0749722, and 0842834. Funding for PB was provided by NSF Grants OCE 0344094 and OCE 0725796 and by the research grant from the Newton Trust of the University of Cambridge. For JP the acknowledgement is to NSF OCE-0451086.