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  • 1
    Monograph available for loan
    Monograph available for loan
    New Jersey [u.a.] : World Scientific Publishing
    Call number: M 09.0029
    Description / Table of Contents: Contents: Modeling Runup with Depth-Integrated Equation Models (G Pedersen); High-Resolution Finite Volume Methods for the Shallow Water Equations with Bathymetry and Dry States (R J LeVeque & D L George); SPH Modeling of Tsunami Waves (B D Rogers & R A Dalrymple); A Large Eddy Simulation Model for Tsunami and Runup Generated by Landslides (T-R Wu & P L-F Liu); Free-Surface Lattice Boltzmann Modeling (J B Frandsen); Description of Benchmark Problems (P L-F Liu et al.); Tsunami Runup onto a Plane Beach (Z Kowalik et al.); Nonlinear Evolution of Long Waves over a Sloping Beach (U Kanoglu); Amplitude Evolution and Runup of Long Waves, Comparison of Experimental and Numerical Data on a 3D Complex Topography (A C Yalciner et al.); Numerical Simulations of Tsunami Runup onto a Three-Dimensional Beach with Shallow Water Equations (X Wang et al.); 3D Numerical Simulation of Tsunami Runup onto a Complex Beach (T Kakinuma); Evaluating Wave Propagation and Inundation Characteristics of the Most Tsunami
    Type of Medium: Monograph available for loan
    Pages: xix, 322 S.
    ISBN: 9789812700124
    Series Statement: Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering 10
    Classification:
    B..
    Location: Upper compact magazine
    Branch Library: GFZ Library
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  • 2
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    [S.l.] : American Institute of Physics (AIP)
    Physics of Fluids 8 (1996), S. 2060-2065 
    ISSN: 1089-7666
    Source: AIP Digital Archive
    Topics: Physics
    Notes: A theory is developed to describe the generation of edge waves on a uniform beach by a wave-maker. The theory is based on the linear shallow-water equations. The wave-maker is a vertical plate spanning between the shoreline and the paddle axis offshore, and oscillates periodically in the alongshore direction. It is found theoretically that only propagating modes exist; the evanescent modes are always accompanied by incoming waves from offshore and are not permissible in this case. For each propagation mode the cross-shore variation is described by the Laguerre polynomial with an exponentially decaying amplitude. Laboratory experiments are performed and experimental data are compared with theoretical solutions. Since the viscous damping is ignored in the theory, the wave amplitudes for the experimental data are usually lower than the theoretical predictions. However, the cross-shore variations of the wave form are predicted well by the theory. Furthermore, from both theoretical and experimental data, it is shown that wave fields are dominated by the Stokes edge-wave mode in the low frequency range, f〈0.5 Hz. © 1996 American Institute of Physics.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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  • 3
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    [S.l.] : American Institute of Physics (AIP)
    Physics of Fluids 13 (2001), S. 1660-1667 
    ISSN: 1089-7666
    Source: AIP Digital Archive
    Topics: Physics
    Notes: Using Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations, we have conducted a series of numerical experiments to investigate the evolution of a solitary wave propagating over a step. Both nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves are studied. To study breaking waves, the RANS equations are coupled with k–cursive-epsilon turbulence equations. For the nonbreaking wave case the numerical solutions are compared with available experimental data. The numerical experiments demonstrate that both nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves disintegrate into several solitons over the step. However, the fission processes for generating the second and third soliton are quite different for nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves. © 2001 American Institute of Physics.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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  • 4
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    [S.l.] : American Institute of Physics (AIP)
    Physics of Fluids 10 (1998), S. 327-329 
    ISSN: 1089-7666
    Source: AIP Digital Archive
    Topics: Physics
    Notes: The fluid particle velocities in the overturning jet of a breaking wave have been measured by the Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) technique. Monochromatic waves with wave height of 14.5 cm and wavelength of 121 cm were generated in the water depth of 20 cm. The measured fluid particle velocity at the tip of the overturning jet reached 1.68 times of the phase velocity calculated from the linear wave theory. Fluid particle accelerations were estimated from the velocity data with the following results: The overturning jet enters the horizontal water surface with an acceleration of 1.1 g at an angle of 88° downward. The PIV technique was also used to measure the instantaneous vertical vorticities generated by breaking waves. The number and locations of the vortices on the horizontal plane appear to be random. The maximum instantaneous vorticity was in the order of magnitude of 20–30 s−1, whereas the ensemble-averaged vorticity was quite small. © 1998 American Institute of Physics.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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  • 5
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    [S.l.] : American Institute of Physics (AIP)
    Physics of Fluids 11 (1999), S. 3390-3400 
    ISSN: 1089-7666
    Source: AIP Digital Archive
    Topics: Physics
    Notes: This paper reports a set of laboratory data for breaking waves in the water of intermediate depth. A monochromatic wave train with a wave height of 14.5 cm and a wavelength of 121 cm was generated in a water depth, h, of 20 cm. The wave train breaks consistently at a distance of about 2h from the wave generator. The instantaneous velocity fields under the breaking waves on a two-dimensional vertical plane were measured by using the particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique. By repeating the same experiments twenty times and performing the ensemble average, mean velocity, mean vorticity, turbulence intensity, and other flow properties such as the Reynolds stress and the mean strain rate were calculated. Outside the aerated region, where the density of air bubbles is high, the experimental data show that the mean vorticity was of the same order of magnitude as (C/h) ((approximate)6 s−1) with C being the phase speed. The maximum turbulence intensity outside the aerated region was in the order of magnitude of 0.1 C ((approximate)11 cm/s). The time-averaged (over one wave period) turbulence intensity under the wave trough level was one order of magnitude smaller, i.e., it was about 0.04 C ((approximate)4.8 cm/s). Based the experimental data, the transport equation for turbulent kinetic energy was further examined. The turbulence dissipation rate and its time scale were also estimated. Under the trough level at the measurement section, which was about 3h downstream from the breaking point, the turbulence production, and dissipation were of the same order of magnitude, but not identical. The turbulence advection, production, and dissipation were equally important, while the turbulence diffusion was almost negligible. © 1999 American Institute of Physics.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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  • 6
    ISSN: 1432-1157
    Source: Springer Online Journal Archives 1860-2000
    Topics: Geosciences
    Notes: Abstract The build-up of pore-water pressure by waves can lead to sediment liquefaction and subsequent transport by traction currents. This process was investigated by measuring pore-water pressures both in a field experiment and laboratory wave tank tests. Liquefaction was observed in the wave tank tests. The results suggest that sand is less susceptible than silts to wave-induced liquefaction because of the tendency to partially dissipate pore-water pressures. However, previous studies have determined that pore-water pressures must approach liquefaction before current velocities necessary to initiate transport are reduced. Once liquefaction has occurred more sediment can be transported.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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  • 7
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Chichester : Wiley-Blackwell
    International Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids 15 (1992), S. 1119-1141 
    ISSN: 0271-2091
    Keywords: Integral equation ; Overturning progressive waves ; Breaking standing waves ; Sloshing ; Engineering ; Engineering General
    Source: Wiley InterScience Backfile Collection 1832-2000
    Topics: Mechanical Engineering, Materials Science, Production Engineering, Mining and Metallurgy, Traffic Engineering, Precision Mechanics
    Notes: On the basis of the integral equation approach, numerical algorithms for solving non-linear water wave problem are presented. The free surface flow is assumed to be irrotational. Two different Green functions are used in the integral equations. The non-linear free-surface boundary conditions are treated by a time-stepping Lagrangian technique. Several numerical examples are given, including permanent periodic waves, overturning progressive waves, breaking standing waves and sloshing problems.
    Additional Material: 17 Ill.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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  • 8
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Chichester : Wiley-Blackwell
    International Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids 28 (1998), S. 461-476 
    ISSN: 0271-2091
    Keywords: advection-diffusion equation ; operator splitting algorithm ; Holly and Preissmann scheme ; method of characteristics ; finite element method ; Engineering ; Numerical Methods and Modeling
    Source: Wiley InterScience Backfile Collection 1832-2000
    Topics: Mechanical Engineering, Materials Science, Production Engineering, Mining and Metallurgy, Traffic Engineering, Precision Mechanics
    Notes: Operator splitting algorithms are frequently used for solving the advection-diffusion equation, especially to deal with advection dominated transport problems. In this paper an operator splitting algorithm for the three-dimensional advection-diffusion equation is presented. The algorithm represents a second-order-accurate adaptation of the Holly and Preissmann scheme for three-dimensional problems. The governing equation is split into an advection equation and a diffusion equation, and they are solved by a backward method of characteristics and a finite element method, respectively. The Hermite interpolation function is used for interpolation of concentration in the advection step. The spatial gradients of concentration in the Hermite interpolation are obtained by solving equations for concentration gradients in the advection step. To make the composite algorithm efficient, only three equations for first-order concentration derivatives are solved in the diffusion step of computation. The higher-order spatial concentration gradients, necessary to advance the solution in a computational cycle, are obtained by numerical differentiations based on the available information. The simulation characteristics and accuracy of the proposed algorithm are demonstrated by several advection dominated transport problems. © 1998 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
    Additional Material: 10 Ill.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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  • 9
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Chichester [u.a.] : Wiley-Blackwell
    International Journal for Numerical Methods in Engineering 18 (1982), S. 1497-1504 
    ISSN: 0029-5981
    Keywords: Engineering ; Engineering General
    Source: Wiley InterScience Backfile Collection 1832-2000
    Topics: Mathematics , Technology
    Notes: A hybrid integral equation method is formulated to study the diffraction of oblique waves by an infinite cylinder. The water depth and the geometry of the floating cylinder are assumed to be uniform in the y-direction (one of the horizontal axes). Numerical discretization and integrations are performed in the vertical plane. Analytical solutions are used in far fields such that radiation boundary conditions are satisfied. Numerical results are obtained for the case of wave scattering by a floating rectangular cylinder in a constant water depth. The accuracy and efficiency of present method are compared with those obtained by other numerical techniques.
    Additional Material: 4 Ill.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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  • 10
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Chichester [u.a.] : Wiley-Blackwell
    International Journal for Numerical Methods in Engineering 28 (1989), S. 1023-1040 
    ISSN: 0029-5981
    Keywords: Engineering ; Engineering General
    Source: Wiley InterScience Backfile Collection 1832-2000
    Topics: Mathematics , Technology
    Notes: An operator-splitting algorithm for the two-dimensional convection-dispersion-reaction equation is developed. The flow domain is discretized into triangular elements which are fixed in time. The governing equation is split into three successive initial value problems: a pure convection problem, a pure dispersion problem and a pure reaction problem. For the pure convection problem, solutions are found by the method of characteristics. The solution algorithm involves tracing the characteristic lines backwards in time from a vertex of an element to an interior point. A cubic polynomial is used to interpolate the concentration and its derivatives on an element. For the pure dispersion problem, an explicit finite element algorithm is employed. Analytical solutions are obtained for the pure reaction problem. The treatment of the boundary conditions is also discussed. Several numerical examples are presented. Numerical results agree well with analytical solutions. Because cubic polynomials are used in the interpolation, very little numerical damping and oscillation are introduced, even for the pure convection problem.
    Additional Material: 14 Ill.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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