ALBERT

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2009.

Description: This thesis examines the nature of eddy-mean flow interactions in western boundary current jets and recirculation gyre dynamics from both theoretical and observational perspectives. It includes theoretical studies of eddy-mean flow interactions in idealized configurations relevant to western boundary current jet systems, namely (i) a study of the mechanism by which eddies generated from a localized forcing drive mean recirculation gyres through the process of nonlinear rectification; and (ii) a study of the role of eddies in the downstream evolution of a baroclinic jet subject to mixed instabilities. It also includes an observational analysis to characterize eddy-mean flow interactions in the Kuroshio Extension using data from the downstream location of maximum eddy kinetic energy in the jet. New insights are presented into a rectification mechanism by which eddies drive the recirculation gyres observed in western boundary current systems. Via this mechanism, eddies drive the recirculations by an up-gradient eddy potential vorticity flux inside a localized region of eddy activity. The effectiveness of the process depends on the properties of the energy radiation from the region, which in turn depends on the population of waves excited. In the zonally-evolving western boundary current jet, eddies also act to stabilize the unstable jet through down-gradient potential vorticity fluxes. In this configuration, the role of eddies depends critically on their downstream location relative to where the unstable time-mean jet first becomes stabilized by the eddy activity. The zonal advection of eddy activity from upstream of this location is fundamental to the mechanism permitting the eddies to drive the mean flows. Observational results are presented that provide the first clear evidence of a northern recirculation gyre in the Kuroshio Extension, as well as support for the hypothesis that the recirculations are, at least partially, eddy-driven. Support for the idealized studies’ relevance to the oceanic regime is provided both by indications that various model simplifications are appropriate to the observed system, as well as by demonstrated consistencies between model predictions and observational results in the downstream development of time-mean and eddy properties.

Description: Funding was for this research and my education was provided by the MIT Presidential Fellowship and NSF grants OCE-0220161 and OCE-0825550. The financial assistance of the Houghton Fund, the MIT Student Assistance Fund, and WHOI Academic Programs is also gratefully acknowledged.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2008

Description: The subtidal circulation of the southeast Greenland shelf is described using a set of highresolution hydrographic and velocity transects occupied in summer 2004. The main feature present is the East Greenland Coastal Current (EGCC), a low-salinity, highvelocity jet with a wedge-shaped hydrographic structure characteristic of other surface buoyancy-driven currents. The EGCC was observed along the entire Greenland shelf south of Denmark Strait, while the transect north of the strait showed only a weak shelf flow. This observation, combined with evidence from chemical tracer measurements that imply the EGCC contains a significant Pacific Water signal, suggests that the EGCC is an inner branch of the polar-origin East Greenland Current (EGC). A set of idealized laboratory experiments on the interaction of a buoyant current with a submarine canyon also supported this hypothesis, showing that for the observed range of oceanic parameters, a buoyant current such as the EGC could exhibit both flow across the canyon mouth or into the canyon itself, setting the stage for EGCC formation. Repeat sections occupied at Cape Farewell between 1997 and 2004 show that the alongshelf wind stress can also have a strong influence on the structure and strength of the EGCC and EGC on timescales of 2-3 days. Accounting for the wind-induced effects, the volume transport of the combined EGC/EGCC system is found to be roughly constant (~2 Sv) over the study domain, from 68°N to Cape Farewell near 60°N. The corresponding freshwater transport increases by roughly 60% over this distance (59 to 96 mSv, referenced to a salinity of 34.8). This trend is explained by constructing a simple freshwater budget of the EGCC/EGC system that accounts for meltwater runoff, melting sea-ice and icebergs, and net precipitation minus evaporation. Variability on interannual timescales is examined by calculating the Pacific Water content in the EGC/EGCC from 1984-2004 in the vicinity of Denmark Strait. The PW content is found to correlate significantly with the Arctic Oscillation index, lagged by 9 years, suggesting that the Arctic Ocean circulation patterns bring varying amounts of Pacific Water to the North Atlantic via the EGC/EGCC.

Description: Funding for the cruise and analysis was provided by National Science Foundation grant OCE-0450658, which along with NSF grant OCE- 0095427 provided funds for my tuition and stipend as well.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution August 1980

Description: Observational evidence of seasonal variability below the main thermocline in the eastern North Atlantic is described, and a theoretical model of oceanic response to seasonally varying windstress forcing is constructed to assist in the interpretation of the observations. The observations are historical conductivity-temperature-depth data from the Bay of Biscay region (2° to 20°W, 42° to 52°N), a series of eleven cruises over the three years 1972 through 1974, spaced approximately three months apart. The analysis of the observations utilizes a new technique for identifying the adiabatically leveled density field corresponding to the observed density field. The distribution of salinity anomaly along the leveled surfaces is examined, as are the vertical displacements of observed density surfaces from the leveled reference surfaces, and the available potential energy. Seasonal variations in salinity anomaly and vertical displacement occur as westward propagating disturbances with zonal wavelength 390 (±50) km, phase 71 (±30) days from 1 January, and maximum amplitudes of ±30 ppm and ±20 db respectively. The leveled density field varies seasonally with an amplitude corresponding to a thermocline displacement of ±15 db. The observations are consistent with the predictions of a model in which an ocean of variable stratification with a surface mixed layer and an eastern boundary is forced by seasonal changes in a sinusoidal windstress pattern, when windstress parameters calculated from the observations of Bunker and Worthington (1976) are applied.

Description: This work was supported by the Office of Naval Research under contract N00014~76-C-197, NR 083-400.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2007

Description: Oceanic spreading centers are sites of magmatic, tectonic, and hydrothermal processes. In this thesis I present experimental and seismological constraints on the evolution of these complex regions of focused crustal accretion and extension. Experimental results from drained, triaxial deformation experiments on partially molten olivine reveal that melt extraction rates are linearly dependent on effective mean stress when the effective mean stress is low and non-linearly dependent on effective mean stress when it is high. Microearthquakes recorded above an inferred magma reservoir along the TAG segment of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge delineate for the first time the arcuate, subsurface structure of a long-lived, active detachment fault. This fault penetrates the entire oceanic crust and forms the high-permeability pathway necessary to sustain long-lived, high-temperature hydrothermal venting in this region. Long-lived detachment faulting exhumes lower crustal and mantle rocks. Residual stresses generated by thermal expansion anisotropy and mismatch in the uplifting, cooling rock trigger grain boundary microfractures if stress intensities at the tips of naturally occurring flaws exceed a critical stress intensity factor. Experimental results coupled with geomechanical models indicate that pervasive grain boundary cracking occurs in mantle peridotite when it is uplifted to within 4 km of the seafloor. Whereas faults provide the high-permeability pathways necessary to sustain high-temperature fluid circulation, grain boundary cracks form the interconnected network required for pervasive alteration of the oceanic lithosphere. This thesis provides fundamental constraints on the rheology, evolution, and alteration of the lithosphere at oceanic spreading centers.

Description: Research was funded by a MIT Presidential Fellowship and NSF grants OCE-0095936, OCE-9907224, OCE-0137329, OCE-6892222, and OCE-6897400.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution December 1997

Description: A new tomographic technique is employed to investigate the structure and dynamics of the Pacific upper mantle. We invert band-center travel times of ScS reverberations and frequency-dependent travel times of direct S phases, upper-mantle guided waves such as SS and SSS, and the R1 and G1 surface waves for the 2D composite structure in the plane of two Pacific corridors. The frequency-dependent travel times of the turning and surface waves are measured from all three components of ground motion as phase delays relative to a radially-anisotropic, spherically-symmetric oceanic mantle model, and their 2D Fréchet kernels are constructed by a coupled-mode algorithm. The travel times of the primary ScSn and sScSn phases and their first-order reverberations from the 410 and 660 discontinuities are measured as individual phases and the 2D Fréchet kernels for these band-limited signals are calculated using the paraxial ray approximation. The model parameters include shear-speed variations throughout the mantle, perturbations to radial shear-wave anisotropy in the uppermost mantle, and the topography of the 410 and 660 discontinuities. We construct vertical tomograms through two mantle corridors: one between the Tonga subduction zone and Oahu, Hawaii, which traverses the central Pacific Ocean; and the other between the Ryukyu subduction zone and Oahu, which samples the northern Philippine Sea, the western Pacific, and the entire Hawaiian swell. Tests demonstrate that the data sets for the two corridors resolve the lateral structure in the upper mantle with a scale length of a few hundreds kilometers and greater but that the resolving power decreases rapidly in the lower mantle. The model for the Tonga-Hawaii corridor reveals several interesting features, the most significant being a regular pattern of high and low shear velocities in the upper mantle between Tonga and Hawaii. These variations, which are well resolved by the data set, have a horizontal wavelength of 1500 km, a vertical dimension of 700 km, and an amplitude of about 3%, and they show a strong positive correlation with seafloor topography and geoid-height variations along this corridor. The geoid highs correspond to a series of northwest-trending swells associated with the major hotspots of the Society, Marquesas, and Hawaiian Islands. Where these swells cross the corridor, they are underlain by high shear velocities throughout the uppermost mantle, so it is unlikely that their topography is supported by thermal buoyancy. This result is substantiated by the model from the Ryukyu-Hawaii corridor, which exhibits a prominent, fast region that extends beneath the entire Hawaiian swell. This anomaly, which resides in the uppermost 200-300 km of the mantle, is also positively correlated with the undulations of the Hawaiian-swell height. The other dominant features in the Ryukyu-Hawaii model include the high-velocity subducting slabs beneath the Ryukyu and Izu-Bonin seismic zones, which extend throughout the entire upper mantle; a very low-velocity in the uppermost 160 km of the mantle beneath the northern Philippine Sea, which is ascribed to the presence of extra water in this region; and a pronounced minimum in the amount of radial anisotropy near Hawaii, which is also seen along the Tonga-Hawaii corridor. A joint inversion of the data from the two corridors reveals the same anomaly pattern and clearly demonstrates that the swells in the Central Pacific are underlain by fast velocities. It is therefore implied that the topography of the swells in the central Pacific is supported by a chemical buoyancy mechanism which is generated by basaltic volcanism and the formation of its low-density peridotitic residuum. While the basaltic depletion mechanism can produce high shear velocities in the uppermost 200 km, it cannot explain the depth extent of the fast anomalies beneath the swells which, along Tonga-Hawaii corridor, extend well into the transition zone. It is therefore hypothesized that the central Pacific is underlain by a system of convective rolls that are confined above the 660-km discontinuity. It is likely that these rolls are predominantly oriented in the direction of plate motion (like "Richter rolls ") but the limited depth of the fast anomaly beneath the Hawaiian swell (200-300 km) suggests that their pattern is probably more complicated. Nevertheless, this convection pattern appears to be strongly correlated with the locations of the Tahitian, Marquesan, and Hawaiian hotspots, which raises interesting questions for Morgan's hypothesis that these hotspots are the surface manifestations of deep-mantle plumes.

Description: This research was supported by the National Science Foundation under grant EAR- 9628351 and by the Defense Special Weapons Agency under grant DSW A-F49620-95-1- 0051.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements of the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution June 2004

Description: Laterally extensive, well-developed clinoforms have been mapped in Early Cretaceous deposits located in the northeastern 27,000 km2 of the Colvile Basin, North Slope of Alaska. Using public domain 2-D seismic data, well logs, core photographs, and grain size data, depositional geometries within the Nanushuk and Torok formations were interpreted in order to constrain the transport conditions associated with progradation of the shoreline and construction of the continental margin out of detritus shed from the ancestral Brooks Range. Using STRATA, a synthetic stratigraphic modeling package, constructional clinoform geometries similar to those preserved in the North Slope clinoform volume (32,400 km3) were simulated. Sediment flux, marine and nonmarine diffusivities, and basin subsidence were systematically varied until a match was found for the foreset and topset slopes, as well as progradation rates over a 6 milion year period. The ability of STRATA to match the seismically interpreted geometries allows us to constrain measures of possible water and sediment discharges consistent with the observed development of the Early Cretaceous c1inoform suite. Simulations indicate that, in order to reproduce observed geometries and trends using constant input parameters, the subsidence rate must be very small, only a fraction of the most likely rate calculated from the seismic data. Constant sediment transport parameters can successfully describe the evolution of the prograding margin only in the absence of tectonic subsidence. However, further work is needed to constrain the absolute magnitude of these values and determine a unique solution for the NPR-A clinoforms.

Description: The series of observations described in this report were planned with the double purpose of measuring the evaporation and transport of water vapor from the ocean into an unstable atmosphere, and of studying the diffusion processes operating in air of this stability class. Measured values of the evaporation from ocean surfaces were conspicuously absent from the meteorological literature until Craig and Montgomery (1949) published values for hydrostatically stable air. The present set of measurements extends our knowledge to include evaporation into a hydrostatically unstable air mass. In addition to evaporation values at the surface, net transports of water vapor at many levels up to 2000 meters have been measured.

Description: With the advance in knowledge of oceanic circulation there now exists a demand for additional identifying properties which will serve to trace the origin and movements of water masses in the sea, and to check earlier conclusions based entirely on temperature and salinity distribution. Of all the known identifying properties (except temperature and salinity) oxygen appears to be the most useful, not only because of the ease with which it can be accurately measured at sea, but also because of the large amount of data available on its distribution in the open ocean.

Description: With the opening of the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution in July 1931, there was inaugurated a program of investigations in the deep waters of the western North Atlantic for which there had long been a great need. In contrast to most deep-sea investigations, which have had to be planned as single expeditions, the Institution was able to initiate a general program which could be carried out gradually in order to take advantage of knowledge gained during the course of the work. Suffcient funds having been provided for the continuous operation of its research vessel "Atlantis," work could be planned for all seasons of the year. Although these investigations have not been in progress for long and new data are continually being brought in by the "Atlantis," there are several reasons that make it seem desirable at this time to publish a preliminary report based on the completed temperature and salinity observations. In the first place, the problem of oceanic circulation is such that we cannot hope for a satisfactory solution for a long time to come. Moreover, it would be unwise to allow too much data to accumulate, because several years may pass before we can arrive at more important conclusions. Secondly, both the chemical and biological programs undertaken at the same time, require as a background the general scheme of circulation in the western North Atlantic as well as the distribution of temperature and salinity. It is, in fact, the necessity of taking into consideration the movements of the sea water which ties together the whole subject of oceanography. Therefore, it is the duty of those interested in ocean circulation to make available their findings as soon as possible for investigators of other problems in the same area. The "Atlantis" temperature and salinity observations discussed in these pages were planned with two main purposes in view. The first objective was an intensive study of seasonal changes along sections running from the southwestern corner of Nova Scotia to Bermuda and from Bermuda to the mouth of Chesapeake Bay.! This, of course, included an examination of fluctuations in the Gulf Stream, as well as of the variations in the water masses on each side of it. Second, there has been planned and partly carried out, a more general survey of the western North Atlantic, where accurate, deep stations have been sadly lacking.

Description: During the past four years a deliberate effort has been made at the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution to devise methods of kinematic observation generally suited to the needs of oceanographers. One result of this work, the electromagnetic method, has been brought from the experimental stage to one of useful maturity. Many of the theoretical potentialities of the method are still to be explored and developed. Nevertheless it seems likely that this remaining work may be done more soundly if present developments of the theory and instrumentation are made available for use and evaluation by, others. These studies in methods of kinematic observation have been supported mainly under the provisions of Bureau of Ships Contract NObs-2083, and Office of Naval Research Contract N6onr-277-1. This support and the assistance of the Naval Ordnance Laboratory, the Hydrographic Office (Oceanographic Division), the United States Coast Guard, and the David Taylor Model Basin of the United States Navy is gratefully acknowledged.

Description: The New York Bight consists of the waters lying between Cape May, New Jersey, and Montauk Point, Long Island. A portion of the general southwesterly current known as the Coastal Drift lies in the seaward part of the Bight. Inshore from the Coastal Drift is an area of complex hydrography where the combined outflows of the Hudson River and other rivers enter the sea. In the region where the New Jersey and Long Island coastlines converge, an area 25 nautical miles on each side has been studied at all seasons of the year. This area extends from Sandy Hook southward to a point off Seaside Heights, eastward to 73°15' W longitude, north to the Long Island shore, and westward to Rockaway Inlet. The depth of water in the area averages about 90 feet, except in the innermost part of the Hudson Canyon which runs roughly northwest-southeast across most of the survey area. In the Canyon, depths in excess of 240. feet are found within the limits of the area studied. The hydrographic conditions in the area are in essence similar to those off the mouths of other large rivers. The combined flows of the Hudson and other rivers entering the surveyed area discharge enough fresh water annually to replace about one-half of the total volume of water under the 600 square miles of sea surface extensively surveyed. The salinity within the area is nearly as high as that of adjacent coastal water, however, and the actual quantity of river water within the area at any time rarely exceeds one percent of the total volume of water. Quantitative evaluation of these factors has led to the conclusion that there is an active circulation within the area which rapidly disperses the introduced river effluent. Many surveys of coastal and estuarine waters have been made. Outstanding among these are the survey of the River Tees, (1931, 1935), of the Tamar Estuary, (Hartley and Spooner, 1938; Milne, 1938), and of Alberni Inlet, (Tully, 1949). The general principles of estuarine circulations may be summarized as follows: In order to remove the added river water there must be a non-tidal drift of mixed water in a net seaward direction. When river flow remains constant, a steady state distribution of fresh and salt water throughout the estuary is attained, and at such times the net transport of river water seaward through any complete cross section of the estuary exactly equals the contribution of fresh water from the river during the same interval of time. As the mixture containing the river water moves seaward it gets progressively more saline, as additional sea water is entrained. In order to provide this sea water there must be a counter drift having a net flow in a landward direction. Superimposed on these necessary parts of the circulation are tidal and wind currents. The velocities of the tidal currents are commonly much greater than the velocity of the non-tidal drift, making the latter difficult to measure directly. It can be inferred, however, from the distribution of river water, as derived from the salinity distribution. Using the river water in this way we have evaluated the exchanges of the waters within the New York Bight. Tully (1949) has analyzed the circulation in Alberni Inlet by similar methods. Tidal current measurements made by the Coast and Geodetic Survey at various locations in the northwestern corner of the surveyed area are summarized by Marmer (1935). At Scotland Lightship, which is the location of the stations at the western end of Section A in Figure 1, the total excursion which results from the flood or ebb tidal currents is less than two miles. The currents at Ambrose Lightship, about five miles to the eastward, produce displacements only about half as great. The tidal displacements throughout the rest of the area are presumed to be less than these. The pattern of distribution of properties will be displaced, therefore, a distance less than ±1 mile at various stages of the tide. This distance is small in comparison to the size of the area surveyed, especially when considering the fact that distances between stations ranged from 5 to 8 miles. It was unnecessary, therefore, to attempt to take comparable stations at similar stages of the tide. Other considerations, beside its interesting hydrography, have contributed to the choice of this area for study. Because it is adjacent to centers of dense population and heavy industrial concentration, the New York Bight serves the conflicting purposes of waste disposal and recreation. Sewer effluents and industrial wastes enter the area by way of the rivers. Sewage sludges are barged out and dumped within the region studied. During the period covered by our surveys, The National Lead Company commenced operations to barge and discharge at sea the waste from its titanium plant at Sayreville, New Jersey. Since iron was a major constituent of this waste, analyses for iron in the water were made at each station, and the results have been valuable in checking the rate of the circulation which was computed from the distribution of river effluent. The New York Bight is also used extensively for recreational purposes. Because the area is readily and cheaply accessible by public transportation it must serve the recreational demands of a large part of the population of metropolitan New York. Sport fishing, bathing and boating are the principal recreational activities. Small but valuable commercial fisheries for shellfish and fin-fish also exist. The purpose of this study was to investigate the hydrographic processes in the New York Bight since they have an important bearing on the general problems of coastal oceanography and a knowledge of them should lead to a more successful evaluation and utilization of the area for the diverse purposes it must serve.

Description: This paper is a discussion of possible discrepancies in computations of ocean currents (based on horizontal variations of dynamic topography calculated from arbitrary deep lying reference surfaces), because of time variations of temperature and salinity at fixed depths in the sea (illustrated for a 24-hour period at "Atlantis" Station 2639). The results contained herein, while based chiefly on information from the western North Atlantic, are of general applicability, since time variations of the same order of magnitude have been observed over extensive areas of the Atlantic ocean. In selecting material for analysis of dynamic situations in the region concerned, consideration has been given only to those favorably located stations from which the structural features could most conveniently be obtained for illustrating the points in question.