ALBERT

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science in Aeronautics and Astronautics at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution June 2021.

Description: Global temperature rise and increased atmospheric carbon dioxide (CO2) levels have affected the health of the world’s ocean and water ecosystems, impacting the balances of natural carbon cycling and causing ocean acidification. Additionally, as global temperatures rise, thawing permafrost has stimulated increased release of methane (CH4), a gas with a shorter lifetime in the atmosphere but with even more heat trapping ability than CO2. In situ analysis of dissolved gas content in surface waters is currently performed with large, expensive instruments, such as spectrometers, which are coupled with gas equilibration systems, which extract dissolved gas from water and feed it to the sensor. Accurate, low cost, and portable sensors are needed to measure the dissolved CH4 and CO2 concentration in water systems to quantify their release and understand their relationship to the global carbon budget. At the same time, while greenhouse gases are well established threats to water ecosystems, the ubiquity and potential consequences of microplastics in aqueous environments are just beginning to be recognized by the environmental research community. Microplastics (MPs) are small particles of polymer debris, commonly defined as being between 1 μm and 1000 μm. Despite the pervasiveness of MPs, our ability to characterize MPs in the environment is limited by the lack of technologies for rapidly and accurately identifying and quantifying MPs. This thesis is concerned with the engineering challenges prompted by the need for high quality and quantity environmental data to better study and the impact, cycling, and prevalence of these pollutants in aqueous environments. Three distinct investigations are presented here. First, the design of the Low-Cost Gas Extraction and Measurement System (LC-GEMS) for dissolved CO2 is presented. At just under $600 dollar to build, the LC-GEMS is an ultra-portable, toolbox-sized instrument for dissolved gas sensing in near-surface waters. The LCGEMS was characterized in the lab and demonstrated linear relationships with dissolved CO2 as well as temperature. Lab calibrations and subsequent field testing in the Little Sippewissett Marsh, in Falmouth, Massachusetts showed that the LCGEMS captures both diurnal and minute-time scale trends in dissolved CO2. Second, this thesis presents the novel design of three simple and low-cost planar nanophotonic and plasmonic structures as optical transducers for measuring dissolved CH4. Through simulations, the sensitivity of the structures are evaluated and found to exhibit superior performance in the reflectance intensity readout mode to that of the standard surface-plasmon-polariton-mode Spreeta sensor. A practical, small, and low-cost implementation of this chip with a simple intensity-based measurement scheme is proposed. This design is novel in the space of dissolved gas monitoring because it shows potential to measure directly in the water phase while being robust and low-cost to implement. Finally, this thesis presents a literature review and perspective to motivate the development of field-deployable microplastic sensing techniques. A framework for field-deployable microplastic sensing is presented and seeks to inform the MP community of the potential in both traditional MP analysis techniques and unconventional methods for creating rapid and automated MP sensors. The field-deployabilty framework addresses a full scope of practical/technological trade-offs to be considered for portable MP detection.

Description: © The Author(s), 2021. This article is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License. The definitive version was published in Colson, B. C., & Michel, A. P. M. Flow-through quantification of microplastics using impedance spectroscopy. ACS Sensors, 6(1), (2021): 238–244, doi:10.1021/acssensors.0c02223.

Description: Understanding the sources, impacts, and fate of microplastics in the environment is critical for assessing the potential risks of these anthropogenic particles. However, our ability to quantify and identify microplastics in aquatic ecosystems is limited by the lack of rapid techniques that do not require visual sorting or preprocessing. Here, we demonstrate the use of impedance spectroscopy for high-throughput flow-through microplastic quantification, with the goal of rapid measurement of microplastic concentration and size. Impedance spectroscopy characterizes the electrical properties of individual particles directly in the flow of water, allowing for simultaneous sizing and material identification. To demonstrate the technique, spike and recovery experiments were conducted in tap water with 212–1000 μm polyethylene beads in six size ranges and a variety of similarly sized biological materials. Microplastics were reliably detected, sized, and differentiated from biological materials via their electrical properties at an average flow rate of 103 ± 8 mL/min. The recovery rate was ≥90% for microplastics in the 300–1000 μm size range, and the false positive rate for the misidentification of the biological material as plastic was 1%. Impedance spectroscopy allowed for the identification of microplastics directly in water without visual sorting or filtration, demonstrating its use for flow-through sensing.

Description: The authors thank the Richard Saltonstall Charitable Foundation and the National Academies Keck Futures Initiative (NAKFI DBS13) for their funding support.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Geochemistry at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2019.

Description: Mineral dust is generated in continental interiors and exported by winds to ocean basins, providing a sedimentary archive which is one of the few direct indicators we have of atmospheric circulation in the past. This archive can be utilized in regions of dust transport also affected by monsoons to examine how different climate forcing mechanisms impact the monsoon regions over glacialinterglacial, orbital, and millennial timescales. This thesis generates new eolian dust records from two monsoon regions to reconstruct changes in atmospheric circulation in response to forcing by high-latitude insolation and boundary condition change. In Chapters 2 and 3 I use 230Thxsnormalization to construct high-resolution eolian dust flux records from sedimentary archives downwind from the West African and East Asian Monsoon regions respectively. The West African margin dust records show variability associated with an interplay between Northern Hemisphere summer insolation forcing and North Atlantic cooling. The longest record at ODP Site 658, stretching back to 67 ka, shows evidence for a “Green Sahara” interval from 60-50 ka and a skipped precessional “beat” from 35-20 ka. This record also shows evidence for abrupt increases in dust flux associated with Greenland stadials. The Shatsky Rise record at ODP Site 1208, downwind of East Asian dust sources, shows variability associated with glacial-interglacial boundary conditions over the last 330 ka, exhibiting high dust during glacial times. The record also exhibits variability associated with a Northern Hemisphere summer insolation control at times overriding the glacialinterglacial signal. In Chapter 4 I demonstrate the feasibility of using radiogenic neodymium isotopes (143Nd/144Nd) at IODP Site U1430 in the Sea of Japan to fingerprint the provenance of eolian material at the core site from Asian dust sources. I then generate a 143Nd/144Nd record from isolated eolian material over the last 200 ka to examine Westerly Jet behavior in the Asian interior, which shows resolvable orbital-scale variability from 200 to 100 ka, and muted variability from 100 to 0 ka. The findings imply a quicker shift of the Westerly Jet to the north of the Tibetan Plateau during times of high Northern Hemisphere summer insolation and a strong Asian monsoon.

Description: This thesis research was supported by the National Science Foundation under Grant Nos. OCE-1030784 and EAR-1434138 and a Post-expedition activity award through the U.S. Science Support Program, Integrated Ocean Drilling Program. Kinsley was supported by fellowships from the MIT Department of Earth, Atmospheric, and Planetary Sciences in his first year of graduate school and the WHOI Academic Programs Office in his sixth year of graduate school.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2013

Description: The sinking flux of particles is an important removal mechanism of carbon from the surface ocean as part of the biological pump and can play a role in cycling of other chemical species. This work dealt with improving methods of measuring particle export and measuring export on different scales to assess its spatial variability. First, the assumption of 238U linearity with salinity, used in the 238U–234Th method, was reevaluated using a large sample set over a wide salinity range. Next, neutrally buoyant and surface-tethered sediment traps were compared during a three-year time series in the subtropical Atlantic. This study suggested that previously observed imbalances between carbon stocks and fluxes in this region are not due to undersampling by traps. To assess regional variability of particle export, surface and water-column measurements of 234Th were combined for the first time to measure fluxes on ~20 km scales. Attempts to relate surface properties to particle export were complicated by the temporal decoupling of production and export. Finally, particle export from 234Th was measured on transects of the Atlantic Ocean to evaluate basin-scale export variability. High-resolution sampling through the water-column allowed for the identification of unique 234Th features in the intermediate water column.

Description: I was supported by NASA Headquarters under the NASA Earth and Space Science Fellowship Program (Grant NNX10AO72H). Specific projects were funded by grants from the National Science Foundation, including Carbon Flux Through the Twilight Zone – New Tools to Measure Change (OCE-0628416), WAPflux – New Tools to Study the Fates of Phytoplankton Production in the West Antarctic Peninsula (ANT-0838866), and GEOTRACES Atlantic Section: Trace Element Sources and Sinks Elucidated by Short- Lived Radium and Thorium Isotopes (OCE-0925158).

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution January 1993

Description: Although the association between soft-sediment invertebrates and a specific sediment type has been documented for many habitats, most studies have been correlative and have failed to convincingly demonstrate any single mechanism to explain this association. Sediment type has generally been characterized by grain size, however, many other potential causal factors correlate with grain size, including organic content, microbial content, stability, food supply, and larval supply. One hypothesis for animal-sediment associations is that settling larvae are transported as passive particles and are sorted into different sedimentary habitats much like sediment grains. To test the hypothesis that near-bed hydrodynamics may modify larval settlement, field and flume experiments were conducted where larval settlement was compared between microdepositional environments (small depressions) and non-trapping environments (flush treatments). Depressions have been observed to trap passive particles, and these experiments were therefore designed to test whether settling larvae would be trapped in depressions like passive particles. Flume flow simulations were carried out with the polychaete Capitella sp. I and the bivalve Mulinia latera/is. Experiments with flush and depression sediment treatments were conducted in the absence of the potentially confounding effects of suspended sediment and organic matter and therefore offered a highly controlled, explicit test of passive hydrodynamic deposition of larvae in depressions. Although larvae of both species were generally able to actively select a high-organic sediment over a low-organic alternative with a comparable grain size, elevated densities of both species were observed in depressions for a given sediment treatment. Thus, both species appeared to be vulnerable to hydrodynamic trapping. M. latera/is larvae, however, often made a "poor choice" by settling in high numbers in depressions containing the low-organic sediment while Capitella sp. I larvae were generally able to "escape" from depressions if the sediment was unsuitable. In field experiments carried out at Station R in Buzzards Bay, Massachusetts, significantly higher densities of Mediomastus ambiseta juveniles, spionid polychaete juveniles, bivalves, gastropod larvae, and nemerteans were observed in depressions compared with flush treatments over 5 relatively short experimental periods (3 or 4 days each) during the summer of 1990. Of the abundant taxa, only Capitella spp. was not significantly more abundant in depressions compared with flush treatments, although numbers tended to be higher in depressions. Experiments were conducted over a short time period to minimize potential biological interactions between taxa and reduce the likelihood that organic material would accumulate in depressions and provide a cue for settling larvae. Thus, higher numbers in depressions suggest that larvae were passively entrained. These flume and field experiments suggest that near-bed hydrodynamics may modify settlement at some scales, and that both active and passive processes may operate in determining larval distributions in shallow-water, muddy habitats. In deep-sea ecosystems, the role of near-bed hydrodynamics is also of interest because of the potential role that larval settlement in organic patches may play in maintaining the immense species diversity characteristic of many deep-sea ecosystems. To try to understand the role of organic patches in deep-sea communities, several investigators have used colonization trays containing sediments that have been treated in different ways. These experiments have been criticized in the past because the sediment surface in the trays was elevated above the bottom and may therefore have interfered with natural boundary layer flow. Flume simulations of flow over these colonization trays revealed serious flow artifacts generated by the trays, and that flow across the sediment surface of the trays was characterized by turbulent eddies, accelerated velocities and boundary layer thickening. These sorts of flow characteristics would not be expected over natural sediments, and an alternative colonization tray was designed to eliminate these artifacts. To test the hypothesis that different types of food patches would result in different types of larval response, and determine how near-bed hydrodynamics may influence larval settlement, flush colonization trays filled with prefrozen sediment were deployed in tandem with artificial depressions south of St. Croix, U.S.V.I at 900 m depth. Colonization trays and artificial depressions were either unenriched or enriched with Thalassiosira sp. and Sargassum sp. two types of algae chosen to mimic natural food patches on the sea floor. Unexpectedly high densities of organisms colonized trays after only 23 days. The Thalassiosira trays were colonized by high densities of a relatively low diversity, opportunistic fauna, Sargassum trays were colonized by lower densities of a higher diversity fauna, and unenriched trays were colonized by very low numbers of a very diverse fauna. All tray faunas were markedly different in composition from the natural, ambient fauna. These fmdings suggest that different patch types did, indeed, result in a specialized faunal response to each of the "patch" types. Depressions on the sea floor provide a natural mechanism for food patch formation because passive particles such as detritus and algae tend to be entrained in the depressions. To determine whether dominant colonizers would be entrained in depressions like passive particles or could differentiate between depression "patch" types in a flow environment that might be expected to make active selection more difficult, artificial depressions were unenriched or enriched with Sargassum sp. or Thalassiosira sp. Total densities of organisms and densities of the most abundant species were substantially lower in artificial depressions than in trays. Densities in Thalassiosira depressions were lower than in Sargassum depressions and densities in unenriched depressions were extremely low, suggesting that dominant colonizers were not passively entrained in depressions and that colonization was specialized and highly active for these taxa. A different fauna was also observed in natural depressions compared with flush sediments, suggesting that natural depressions do contribute to species coexistence. Long-term tray deployments designed to test whether different faunas would be present in "patches" of different ages indicated that time may also play an important part in a deep-sea patch mosaic.

Description: This was funded by NSF and ONR, NOAA, NSERC (Canada), WHOI Ocean Ventures Fund and the WHOI Ditty Bag Fund.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 1994

Description: Planktonic foraminiferal flux was collected at four sediment trap locations spanning a 34° latitude range in the North Atlantic during 1988-1990. Satellite-derived sea surface temperature (SST) and CTD data were integrated with time-corrected flux data to determine the effects of seasonal hydrographic changes on foraminiferal production and species succession in surface waters. The thermal structure of the upper water column controls foraminiferal production by regulating levels of phytoplankton production and by directly influencing the preferred temperature habitats of individual species in the community. Sediment traps deployed at the two southern sites (34°N and 48°N) were part of the U.S. Joint Global Ocean Flux Study (JGOFS) and were located in regions influenced by upwelling events induced by mesoscale eddy activity. The timing of maximum foraminiferal production at each trap location coincides with the northward progression of the spring bloom in the North Atlantic. The magnitude of total flux during bloom periods varies considerably with location and is positively correlated with the amount of primary productivity in surface waters. Foraminiferal production is highest at JGOFS 48 and probably results from the greater influence of mesoscale variability in this region on local hydrographic conditions. The upwelling associated with cyclonic cold-core eddies appears to be an effective mechanism for increasing local foraminiferal production in the North Atlantic by enhancing food availability. The preferred production of individual species during upwelling periods may depend on the vertical distribution of chlorophyll in the water column. Seasonal variation in SST is also an important factor controlling the relative abundance of species with preferred thermal habitats. A distinct seasonal species succession occurs at both JGOFS sites but is absent at higher latitudes due to decreases in both faunal diversity and seasonal temperature variations with increasing latitude in the North Atlantic. Foraminiferal :flux data, expressed in terms of relative abundance, is the best direct method of comparing species distributions of living populations with fossil assemblages in the sedimentary record. Preferred temperature ranges for G. ruber, G. bulloides, and N. pachyderma are estimated in this study. The tolerance limits for these species and other ecological inferences derived from these flux data may prove useful for paleoceanographic reconstruction in deep-sea cores. Future studies will be necessary, however, to establish the consistency of these results among different ocean basins.

Description: This research was funded by National Science Foundation Grant No. ATM-9115619.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution May 1998

Description: Observations of bedforms, suspended sediment and water velocities were used to examine sediment transport processes at the sandy LE0-15 site located off the New Jersey coast. The bedforms were observed during storms using a rotary sidescan sonar and were found to be wave orbital scale ripples. The onshore migration of these ripples was forced by non-linear wave velocities, and could be related to a simple bedload model. Observations of suspended sand flux were calculated from acoustic backscattering profiles and water velocity profiles. Suspended sand transport forced by wave velocities was found to occur primarily during the weaker offshore phase of wave motion, as part of a vortex ejection mechanism. This net offshore suspended sediment flux was an order of magnitude less than the flux associated with onshore ripple migration. Thus it is hypothesized that ripple migration was forced by unobserved bedload or near bottom suspended flux. The net suspended sediment flux due to mean currents was a factor of five less than the waveforced offshore suspended flux. These wave dominated events at LE0-15 represent a contradiction of the conceptual idea that waves are primarily responsible for suspending sediment and mean currents provide the transport mechanism.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Engineering at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution June 1999

Description: A review of six methods for deriving sediment quality criteria SQC was conducted. Each approach was analyzed according to cost, difficulty, applicability and reliability. Results of this analysis led to the recommendation that the state of Massachusetts should use a combination of the Equilibrium Partitioning modeling approach and the Threshold Effects Level/Probable Effects Level correlative approach to SQC derivation. Criteria should then be applied as screening values for evaluation of sediment toxicity. One significant component of sediment quality that all criteria approaches lack is the bioaccumulation/biomagnification of contaminants. Nor are there accurate, easily implemented models for benthically-coupled organisms such as Mya arenaria. In this document a bioaccumulation model for PAHs and PCBs was developed. The model considers contaminant partitioning into organism lipid and protein and incorporates organism exposure to contaminants through sediment and ingestion of contaminated food particles. Results show the model predicts PCB accumulation in M. arenaria with only a slight variation from observed data. Partitioning into sedimentary soot fraction was added to the model for PARs. Results showed an increase in model accuracy, but predicted concentrations still remain greater than observed concentrations. A combination of sediment quality criteria used as screening criteria and the bioaccumulation model for M.arenaria will improve the accuracy of site assessment of PAH and PCB compounds.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2011

Description: The sinking flux of particulate matter into the ocean interior is an oceanographic phenomenon that fuels much of the metabolic demand of the subsurface ocean and affects the distribution of carbon and other elements throughout the biosphere. In this thesis, I use a new suite of observations to study the dynamics of marine particulate matter at the contrasting sites of the subtropical Sargasso Sea near Bermuda and the waters above the continental shelf of the Western Antarctic Peninsula (WAP). An underwater digital camera system was employed to capture images of particles in the water column. The subsequent analysis of these images allowed for the determination of the particle concentration size distribution at high spatial, depth, and temporal resolutions. Drifting sediment traps were also deployed to assess both the bulk particle flux and determine the size distribution of the particle flux via image analysis of particles collected in polyacrylamide gel traps. The size distribution of the particle concentration and flux were then compared to calculate the average sinking velocity as a function of particle size. I found that the average sinking velocities of particles ranged from about 10-200 m d-1 and exhibited large variability with respect to location, depth, and date. Particles in the Sargasso Sea, which consisted primarily of small heterogeneous marine snow aggregates, sank more slowly than the rapidly sinking krill fecal pellets and diatom aggregates of the WAP. Moreover, the average sinking velocity did not follow a pattern of increasing velocities for the larger particles, a result contrary to what would be predicted from a simple formulation of Stokes’ Law. At each location, I derived a best-fit fractal correlation between the flux size distribution and the total carbon flux. The use of this relationship and the computed average sinking velocities enabled the estimation of particle flux from measurements of the particle concentration size distribution. This approach offers greatly improved spatial and temporal resolution when compared to traditional sediment trap methods for measuring the downward flux of particulate matter. Finally, I deployed specialized in situ incubation chambers to assess the respiration rates of microbes attached to sinking particles. I found that at Bermuda, the carbon specific remineralization rate of sinking particulate matter ranged from 0.2 to 1.1 d-1, while along the WAP, these rates were very slow and below the detection limit of the instruments. The high microbial respiration rates and slow sinking velocities in the Sargasso Sea resulted in the strong attenuation of the flux with respect to depth, whereas the rapid sinking velocities and slow microbial degradation rates of the WAP resulted in nearly constant fluxes with respect to depth.

Description: The Scurlock Bermuda Biological Station for Research Fund provided travel support to and from Bermuda. A grant from the National Science Foundation (NSF) Carbon and Water Program (06028416) enabled all the Sargasso Sea research as well as the opportunity to develop and test much of the methodology presented in this thesis. Internal awards from the WHOI Rinehart Access to the Sea Program and the WHOI Coastal Oceans Institute provided early funding that supported my first season of research in Antarctica and were instrumental in securing the larger external NSF Office of Polar Programs (OPP) Western Antarctic Peninsula Flux Project (OPP 0838866) grant for a second year of science in the region. The NSF OPP Palmer Long-Term Ecological Research Project and the Food for Benthos on the Antarctic Continental Shelf Project provided logistical support in the region. Phoebe Lam and Scott Doney’s grant from the WHOI Ocean Carbon and Climate Institute supported a semester of my time. The Henry G. Houghton Fund and the MIT Student Assistance Fund subsidized educational costs, textbooks, equipment, and travel expenses to conferences. In my first year I was supported by funding from Scott Doney’s NSF grant (OCCE-0312710).

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 2011

Description: Coastal barriers are particularly susceptible to the predicted effects of accelerated of sea-level rise and the potential for increased impacts of intense storms. Over centennial scales, barriers are maintained via overtopping during storms, causing deposition of washover fans on their landward sides. This study examines three washover fans on the south shore of Martha’s Vineyard using a suite of data including vibracores, ground penetrating radar, high resolution dGPS, and LiDAR data. From these data, the volumes of the deposits were determined and range from 2.1—2.4 x 104 m3. Two overwashes occurred during Hurricane Bob in 1991. The water levels produced by this storm have a return interval of ~28 years, resulting in an onshore sediment flux of 2.4—3.4 m3/m/yr. The third washover was deposited by a nor’easter in January 1997, which has a water level return interval of ~6 years, resulting in a flux of 8.5 m3/m/yr. These fluxes are smaller than the flux of sediment needed to maintain a geometrically stable barrier estimated from shoreline retreat rates, suggesting that the barrier is not in long-term equilibrium, a result supported by the thinning of the barrier over this time interval.

Description: Funding for this research was provided by an Emery Fellowship through the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Academic Programs Office, the National Science Foundation (grants NSF-GEO-0815875 and NSF-OCE-0840894), and the Department of Defense Strategic Environmental Research and Development Program (contract W912HQ-09-C-0043).

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 1999

Description: This study uses geophysical and sedimentological data collected from the Lower Hudson River estuary to identify the depositional response of the estuary to high river discharge events. Erosional and depositional environments in the estuary are identified through the use of side-scan sonar, bottom penetrating sonar and surficial sediment sampling. Sediment cores are used to document deposit thicknesses and to obtain the spatial distribution of estuarine deposits. Results show a high degree of spatial and temporal variability in sedimentation within the estuary. Two primary deposits are identified underneath the turbidity maximum for the estuary. Approximately 300,000 metric tons of sediment were deposited within these two deposits during May and June of 1998. This short-term accumulation underneath the turbidity maximum of the estuary can account for 30 to 98 percent of the estimated, river-borne sediment load supplied to the estuary during the 1997-1998 water year. Both the tidally produced stratigraphy observed in sediment cores and the spatial distribution of identified deposits, support the theory that sedimentation underneath the turbidity maximum of the estuary is primarily the results of a convergence in bottom water flow, caused by the formation of a salinity front during ebb tide.

Description: This research was funded by the Hudson River Foundation and a National Science Foundation Coastal Trainee Fellowship.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution December 1985

Description: Samples from time-series sediment traps deployed in three distinct oceanographic settings (North Pacific, Panama Basin, and Black Sea) provide strong evidence for rapid settling of marine particles by aggregates. Particle water column residence times were determined by measuring the time lag between the interception of a flux event in a shallow trap and the interception of the same event in a deeper trap at the same site. Effective sinking speeds were determined by dividing the vertical offset of the traps (meters) by the interception lag time (days). At station Papa in the North Pacific, all particles settle at 175 m day-1, regardless of their composition, indicating that all types of material may be settling in common packages. Evidence from the other two sites (Panama Basin and Black Sea) shows that particle transport may be vertical, lateral, or a combination of directions, with much of the Black Sea flux signal being dominated by lateral input. In order to ascertain whether marine snow aggregates represent viable transport packages, surveys were conducted of the abundance of these aggregates at several stations in the eastern North Atlantic and Panama Basin using a photographic technique. Marine snow aggregates were found in concentrations ranging from ~1 mm3 liter-1 to more than 500 mm3 liter-1. In open ocean environments, abundances are higher near the surface (production) and decline with depth (decomposition). However, in areas near sources of deep input of resuspended material, concentrations reach mid-water maxima, reflecting lateral transport. A model is proposed to relate the observed aggregate abundances, time series sediment flux and inferred circulation. In this model, depthwise variations in sediment flux and aggregate abundance result from suspension from the sea floor and lateral transport of suspended aggregates which were produced or modified on the sea floor. Temporal changes in sediment flux result from variations in the input of fast-sinking material which falls from the surface, intercepts the suspended aggregates, and transports them to the sea floor. A new combination sediment trap and camera system was built and deployed in the Panama Basin with the intent of measuring the flux of marine snow aggregates. This device consists of a cylindrical tube which is open at the top and sealed at the bottom by a clear plate. Material lying on the bottom plate is illuminated by strobe lights mounted in the wall of the cylinder and photographed by a camera which is positioned below the bottom plate. Flux is determined as the number of aggregates arriving during the time interval between photographic frames (# area-1 time-1). Results show that essentially all material arrives in the form of aggregates with minor contributions of fecal pellets and solitary particles. Sinking speeds (m day-1), calculated by dividing the flux of aggregates (# m-2 day-1) by their abundance (# m-3), indicate that the larger (4-5mm) aggregates are flocculent and sink slowly (~1m day-1) while the smaller aggregates (1-2.5mm) are more compact and sink more quickly (~36m day-1). These large, slow-sinking aggregates may have been re-suspended from the sediment water interface at nearby basin margins.

Description: This research was supported by ONR contract numbers N00014-82-C-0019 and N00014-85-C-0001, NSF grant numbers OCE-83-09024, OCE-84-17106, and DPP-85-01152 and the WHO1 education office.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September 1987

Description: This thesis presents an application of the Grant-Madsen-Glenn bottom boundary layer model (Grant and Madsen, 1979; Glenn and Grant, 1987) to predictions of sediment transport on the continental shelf. The analysis is a two-stage process. Via numerical experiment, we explore the sensitivity of sediment transport to variations in model parameters and assumptions. A notable result is the enhancement of suspended sediment stratification due to wave boundary layer effects. When sediment stratification is neglected under conditions of large wave bottom velocities, concentration predictions can be more than an order of magnitude higher than any observed during storm conditions on the continental shelf. A number of limitations to application emerged from the analysis. Solutions to the stratified model are not uniquely determined under a number of cases of interest, potentially leading to gross inaccuracies in the prediction of sediment load and transport. Load and sediment transport in the outer Ekman Layer, beyond the region of emphasis for the model, can be as large or larger than the near-bottom estimates in some cases; such results suggest directions for improvements in the theoretical model. In the second step of the analysis, we test the ability of the model to make predictions of net sediment transport that are consistent with observed sediment depositional patterns. Data from the Mid-Atlantic Bight and the Northern California coast are used to define reasonable model input to represent conditions on two different types of shelves. In these examples, the results show how the intensification of wave bottom velocities with decreasing depth can introduce net transport over a region. The patterns of erosion/deposition are shown to be strongly influenced by sediment stratification and moveable bed roughness. Also predicted by the applications is a rapid winnowing out of fine grain size components when there is even a small variation of bed grain size texture in the along-flow direction.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution April 1985

Description: The focus of this thesis is on rates of transport of metals both across the sediment/water interface and within the sediment column of nearshore sediments. The early diagenesis of several first-row transition metals exhibiting a variety of behaviors in the ocean -- Mn, Fe, Co, Ni, and Cu -- has been studied intensively at a site in Buzzards Bay, Mass. By limiting the study to a single site, independent measurements over the seasonal cycle of the concentrations of the metals in pore water, of the pore water constituents important to metal cycling, and of particle and solute transport rates could be made at the same site. In addition, a direct, in situ study of the interaction of chemical and transport processes was undertaken using radiotracer techniques. Thus, the study emphasizes the mechanisms of metal cycling near the interface of nearshore sediments. Transport rates were estimated using excess 234Th distributions for particle transport, and pore water 222Rn deficit distributions for solute transport. Particle transport rates, modeled by analogy to Fickian diffusion, ranged from 7-80x10-8 cmz/sec, with excess 234Th reaching to 2-2.5 cm below the interface. There was a significant seasonal variation in rates, with a warm-season average of 40x10-8 cm2/sec and a cold-season average of 20x10-8 cm 2/sec. 234Th-derived mixing rates were applied to Mn distributions through a mass balance model of Mn cycling. It was found that a particulate flux due to bioturbation, from the net dissolved Mn removal layer to a net dissolved Mn production layer adjacent to the interface, was as large as 38% of net dissolved Mn production. Mixing of particulate Fe sulfides may have a similar importance for Fe cycling. Solute transport was estimated using measured 222Rn/ 226 Ra disequilibrium. The pore water 222Rn deficit could be explained using a model including vertical molecular diffusion and exchange with overlying seawater via exchange of pore water with bottom water in rapidly flushed burrows. Cores taken in all seasons could be split into three groups: (1) December through March: the 222Rn deficit was explained by vertical molecular diffusion alone; (2) early summer (June): irrigation affected the 222Rn profile to a depth of at least 20cm; (3) late summer/fall: irrigation was still important near the interface, affecting 222Rn profiles to depths of 10-12 cm. 222Rn deficits were adequately explained by an exchange parameter (a) which decreased exponentially with depth below the interface, but not by a constant-α model. Previous studies have explained irrigation using a constant exchange parameter throughout the irrigated layer. For comparative purposes, an α averaged over the upper 20 cm of the sediment column was calculated at the Buzzards Bay site: the range of depth-averaged α values found, 4-12x10-7 sec-1, is in agreement with values reported previously for a variety of nearshore sediments, using pore water Si02 as a tracer, of 1-20x10-7 sec-1. 222Rn-derived irrigation rates were applied to pore water Mn and Fe distributions. It was estimated that irrigation may contribute 20-40% of the dissolved Mn flux across the interface and about 20% of the dissolved Fe flux. Study of pore water metal chemistry at the Buzzards Bay site included measurements of pore water Mn and Fe during all seasons, and measurements of Co, Cu, and Ni in two cores: one under late winter conditions when the interface is most oxidizing; one when sulfate reduction was very important in the upper centimeter of the sediments. Fe regeneration sufficient to produce enrichments on water column particles was observed only during periods of summer and fall when the interface was reducing; otherwise, oxidation of Fe to insoluble Fe(III) limited Fe fluxes. Mn, Co, Cu, and Ni fluxes varied inversely to Fe fluxes; the primary control on fluxes of these elements was their limited solubility in reducing marine systems. The control was least important for Mn and Co; fluxes of Ni and Cu were significantly greater than zero only when sulfate reduction was unimportant in the upper centimeter of the sediment column. Fluxes of Mn were sufficient to affect the water column Mn distribution, with enrichments on water column particulates of up to 10,000 ppm inferred from calculated fluxes. Tentative estimates of the turnover time of dissolved Co, Cu, and Ni in the water column relative to the benthic flux indicated that the flux may be a significant contributor to the coastal Co cycle (turnover time = 1 yr), but is less likely to be important to Cu and Ni cycles (turnover times greater than 2 yrs). In situ radiotracer migration experiments were carried out at the Buzzards Bay site. 54Mn, 59Fe, 60Co, and 63Ni were released into the sediments at depths ranging from 2.5 to 7 cm below the interface. The order of mobilities was Mn»Fe〉Co,Ni, which is similar to the solubility trend for these metals in reducing marine systems. 63Ni and 60Co were essentially particle-bound in these experiments; apparent diffusion coefficients calculated from their dispersion rates agreed with particle mixing rates from excess 234Th distributions. Solid:solution distribution coefficients were calculated from 54Mn dispersion and found to agree with directly measured values. The coefficient was approximately 15 (dpm/gm solid ÷ dpm/gm pore water) in the upper 0.5 cm and below 5 cm, and 5-10 from 0.5 to 5 cm. Distribution coefficients for 59Fe were approximately 120 below 0.5 cm. Although the trend of the distribution coefficients is clear, the quantitative results from these experiments are preliminary, in that the model used to explain metal ion dispersion, when applied to the nonreactive tracer, 36Cl, could only explain a portion of the 36Cl distribution. The agreement between calculated and directly measured s4Mn distribution coefficients, as well as the way the distributions of tracers varied as a function of apparent diffusion coefficient and time, provides evidence in favor of the adequacy of the model used.

Description: Financial support for parts of this work have come from: National Science Foundation grant #OCE-82-16425; Department of Commerce, NOAA, National Sea Grant College Program, under grant #NA80-AA-D-00077 (R/P/7); from the Coastal Research Center of the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution; and from the WHOI Education Office.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution January 1983

Description: A simple model for the bottom boundary layer on the continental shelf is presented. The governing equations are developed for a stratified, turbulent Ekman layer in a combined wave and current flow over a moveable sediment bed. An eddy diffusivity closure scheme that includes the effect of suspended sediment, temperature, and salinity induced stratification on the vertical turbulent diffusion of mass and momentum couples the resulting unsteady conservation equations for fluid momentum, fluid mass, and suspended sediment mass. The wave velocity, current velocity, and suspended sediment concentration profiles predicted by the simultaneous solution of the conservation equations require the physical bottom roughness and a sediment reference concentrati on to be specified as boundary conditions. The physical bottom roughness associated with biologically generated bedforms, wave generated ripples, and near bed sediment transport are calculated as functions of the flow and sediment conditions. Using expressions for the height of sediment transporting layer and the sediment velocity, an expression for the sediment reference concentration is developed by matching laboratory measurements of sediment transport rates in oscillatory flow. The model predicts that the bottom flow field is highly dependent on (1) the nonlinear wave and current interaction, which increases the boundary shear stress and enhances vertical turbulent diffusion, (2) the effect of the boundary shear stress on a moveable sediment bed, which determines the physical bottom roughness and the amount of sediment in suspension, and (3) the effect of stable stratification, which inhibits vertical turbulent transport and couples the flow to the suspended sediment and fluid density profiles. The validity of the theoretical approach is supported by model predictions that are in excellent agreement with high quality data collected during two continental shelf bottom boundary layer experiments for a wide range of flow and bottom conditions.

Description: Funding for the work resulting in this Thesis has been provided by the American Gas Association (Project No. PR-153-126), the National Science Foundation (Grant No. OCE~8014930), and NOAA-Sea Grant (NA-79AA-D-0010l; NA 79AA-D-00102).

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2002

Description: Predictions of deposition rate are integral to the transport of many constituents including contaminants, organic matter, and larvae. Review of the literature demonstrates a general appreciation for the potential control of deposition by bed roughness, but no direct tests involving flat sediment beds. Understanding the mechanisms at work for flat sediment beds would provide the basis for exploring more complicated bed conditions and the incorporation of other transport processes, such as bioturbation and bedload transport. Generally, fine particle deposition rates are assumed to be equivalent to the suspension settling velocity, therefore, deposition rates in excess of settling are considered enhanced. Flume observations of deposition were made using treatments that covered a wide range of flow, particle, and bed conditions. Specific treatments demonstrated large enhancements (up to eight times settling). Delivery of particles to the interface is important, but models based on delivery alone failed to predict the observed enhancement. This necessitated the development of a new model based on a balance between delivery and filtration in the bed. Interfacial diffusion was chosen as a model for particle delivery. Filtration of particles by the bed is a useful framework for retention, but the shear in the interstitial flow may introduce additional factors not included in traditional filtration experiments. The model performed well in prediction of flow conditions, but there remained a discrepancy between predictions and observed deposition rate, especially for treatments with significant enhancement. Fluid flow predictions by the model,; such as slip at the sediment water interface and fluid penetration into the sediment, appeared to be supported by flume experiments. Therefore, failure to predict the magnitude of enhancement was attributed to far greater filtration efficiencies for the sediment water interface than those measured in sediment columns. Emerging techniques to directly measure fluid and particle motion at the interface could reveal these mechanisms. The observation of enhanced deposition to flat sediment beds reinforces the importance of permeable sediments to the mediation of transport from the water column to the sediment bed.

Description: The Education Office at the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution coordinated and provided funding for much of my time here. Additional support has been provided by the Andrew W. Mellon Foundation, the Cooperative Institute for Climate and Ocean Research (CICOR), and the Offce of Naval Research under grant numbers N00014-97-1-0556 (STRATAFORM Plume Study Moored Observations: Data Analysis and Modeling), N00014-96-1-0953 (Graduate Student Training in Engineering: Instrumenting the Continental Shelf Wave Bottom Boundary Layer), and N00014-94-1-0713 (Coupled Biological, Geological and Hydrodynamical Processes Associated with Fine-Particle Transport & Accumulation in the Coastal Ocean).

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution June 2003

Description: This thesis examines the evolution of a mud-dominated coastal sedimentary system on multiple time scales. Fine-grained systems exhibit different properties and behavior from sandy coasts, and have received relatively little research attention to date. Evidence is presented for shoreline accretion under energetic conditions associated with storms and winter cold fronts. The identification of energetic events as agents of coastal accretion stands in contrast to the traditional assumption that low-energy conditions are required for deposition of fine-grained sediment. Mudflat accretion is proposed to depend upon the presence of an unconsolidated mud sea floor immediately offshore, proximity to a fluvial sediment source, onshore winds, which generate waves that resuspend sediment and advect it shoreward, and a low tidal range. This study constrains the present influence of the Atchafalaya River on stratigraphic evolution of the inner continental shelf in western Louisiana. Sedimentary and acoustic data are used to identify the western limit of the distal Atchafalaya prodelta and to estimate the proportion of Atchafalaya River sediment that accumulates on the inner shelf seaward of Louisiana's chenier plain coast. The results demonstrate a link between sedimentary facies distribution on the inner shelf and patterns of accretion and shoreline retreat on the chenier plain coast.

Description: Among my funding sources was a two-year fellowship from the Clare Booth Luce Foundation. I have received research grants from the Geological Society of America Foundation (Grant 6873-01) and the American Association of Petroleum Geologists (Kenneth H. Crandall Memorial grant).

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution May 1982

Description: Velocity and temperature time series from Hudson Submarine Canyon and hydrographic surveys of seven canyons of the Middle Atlantic Bight indicate that the effects of storms, tides, and incoming internal waves are intensified in submarine canyons. Storms with strong eastward and westward wind stress were found to cause strong upwelling and downwelling through the upper layers of Hudson Canyon. Storm-forced upwelling also caused strong down-canyon flows at the canyon floor. Internal waves were found to be concentrated in the canyon head and near the floor, in agreement with theoretical predictions. Slope water apparently circulates slowly through the outer part of the canyon and is mixed in near-floor layers which could be caused by breaking internal waves. Internal tides are generated at the floor in the central part of the canyon. Oscillations at tidal frequencies dominate the near-floor velocity field below the thermocline, and are accompanied by high-frequency spikes that may be nonlinear interface waves propagating on the top of the bottom mixed layer. A numerical model was used to calculate mixing in the canyon's bottom boundary layer caused by an unstable density gradient during flood tide. Energetic internal wave activity is apparently responsible for sediment sorting in the canyon head; the internal waves become more energetic as the sediment grain size increases. Below the thermocline, the tidal oscillations vary in amplitude with the phases of the moon; the observed deposition of mud can easily occur during weeks of low velocity.

Description: Foundation graduate fellowship and by the Office of Naval Research under Contracts N00014-75-C-029l and N00014-80-C-0273.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution February 2004

Description: Onshore sediment transport and sandbar migration are important to the morphological evolution of beaches, but are not understood well. Here, a new model that accounts for accelerations of wave-orbital velocities predicts onshore sandbar migration observed on an ocean beach. In both the observations and the model, the location of the maximum acceleration-induced transport moves shoreward with the sandbar, resulting in feedback between waves and morphology that drives the bar shoreward until conditions change. A model that combines the effects of transport by waves and mean currents simulates both onshore and offshore bar migration observed over a 45-day period. A stochastic nonlinear Boussinesq model for the evolution of waves in shallow water is coupled with the wave-acceleration-driven sediment transport model to predict observed onshore sediment transport and sandbar migration given observations of the offshore wave field and initial bathymetry. The Boussinesq-wave model has skill in predicting wave spectra, as well as velocity and acceleration statistics across the surfzone, but it underpredicts acceleration skewness on top of the sandbar. As a result, the coupled wave-sediment transport model underpredicts sediment transport, and thus fails to move the sandbar onshore. Although the coupled wave and sediment model can be tuned to yield skillful predictions of onshore sandbar migration, in general, closer agreement between observed and modeled statistics of the wave field is essential for the successful application of wave models to predict sediment transport.

Description: Financial support was provided by the Army Research Office (DAAD1999-1-0250 and DAAD19-03-10072); the Office of Naval Research, Coastal Dynamics and Coastal Geosciences Programs (N00014-02-10145); the National Ocean Partnership Program (B- 428260); the National Science Foundation, Physical Oceanography (OCE-01l5850); and fellowships from Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Cientifico (CNPq) - Brazil (201085/97-6), and from the Academic Programs Offce of the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution October, 1977.

Description: Sediment traps designed to yield quantitative data of particulate fluxes have been deployed and successfully recovered on four moorings in the deep sea. The traps were designed after extensive calibration of different shapes of containers. Further intercalibration of trap design was made in field experiments over a range of current velocities. Experiments with Niskin bottles showed that concentrations of suspended particulate matter obtained with standard filtration methods were low and had to be increased by an average factor of 1.5 to correct for particles settling below the sampling spigot. The trap arrays were designed to sample the particulate fluxes both immediately above and within the nepheloid layer. The data derived from the traps have been used to estimate vertical fluxes of particles including, for the first time, an attempt to distinguish between the flux of material settling from the upper water column (the "primary flux") and material which has been resuspended from some region of the sea floor (resuspension flux). From these data and measurements of the net nepheloid standing crop of particles one can also estimate a residence time for particles resuspended in the nepheloid layer. This residence time appears to be on the order of days to weeks in the bottom 15 m of the water column and weeks to months in the bottom 100 m. Between 80% and 90% of the particles collected in the six traps where particle size was measured were less than 63 μm. The mean size of particles collected in the nepheloid layer was about 20 μm, and above the nepheloid layer the mean was 11 μm. Less than 3% of the organic carbon produced in the photic zone at the trap sites was collected as primary flux 500 m above the sea floor. The primary flux measured at two sites was enough to supply 75% on the upper Rise and 160% on the mid Rise of the organic carbon needed for respiration and for burial in the accumulating sediments. From an intercomparison of the composition of particles falling rapidly (collected in traps), falling slowly or not at all (collected in water bottles), and resting on the sea floor (from a core top), it was determined that elements associated with biogenic matter, such as Ca, Sr, Cu, and I, were carried preferentially by the particles falling rapidly. Once the particles reached the bottom, the concentration of those elements was decreased through decomposition, respiration, or dissolution. Dissolution appears rapid in the vicinity of the sea floor, because despite an abundance of radiolarians, diatoms, and juvenile foraminifera collected in all traps, these forms were rare in core samples. The dynamic nature of thenepheloid layer makes it possible for particles to be resuspended many times before they are finally buried. This enables sediment to be carried long distances from its origin. The recycling of particles near the sea floor may increase dissolution of silicious and carbonate matter.

Description: Financial aid was provided in the form of a research assistantship from the Office of Naval Research through MIT and WHOI.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements of the degree of Master of Science at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution June 2004

Description: Laterally extensive, well-developed clinoforms have been mapped in Early Cretaceous deposits located in the northeastern 27,000 km2 of the Colvile Basin, North Slope of Alaska. Using public domain 2-D seismic data, well logs, core photographs, and grain size data, depositional geometries within the Nanushuk and Torok formations were interpreted in order to constrain the transport conditions associated with progradation of the shoreline and construction of the continental margin out of detritus shed from the ancestral Brooks Range. Using STRATA, a synthetic stratigraphic modeling package, constructional clinoform geometries similar to those preserved in the North Slope clinoform volume (32,400 km3) were simulated. Sediment flux, marine and nonmarine diffusivities, and basin subsidence were systematically varied until a match was found for the foreset and topset slopes, as well as progradation rates over a 6 milion year period. The ability of STRATA to match the seismically interpreted geometries allows us to constrain measures of possible water and sediment discharges consistent with the observed development of the Early Cretaceous c1inoform suite. Simulations indicate that, in order to reproduce observed geometries and trends using constant input parameters, the subsidence rate must be very small, only a fraction of the most likely rate calculated from the seismic data. Constant sediment transport parameters can successfully describe the evolution of the prograding margin only in the absence of tectonic subsidence. However, further work is needed to constrain the absolute magnitude of these values and determine a unique solution for the NPR-A clinoforms.

Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September, 1970

Description: A series of laboratory experiments were conducted in a glass wave tank to investigate the propagation of internal gravity waves up a sloping bottom in a fluid with constant Brunt-Vaisala frequency. Measurements of the wave motion in the fluid interior were primarily taken with electrical conductivity probes; measurements in the boundary layer were made with dye streaks and neutrally buoyant particles. The results indicate that, outside of the breaking zone, the amplitude and horizontal wave number of the high-frequency waves increase lineariy with decreasing depth; this is shown to agree with existing linear, inviscid solutions. A zone of breaking or runup is induced by these high-frequency waves well upslope. Shadowgraph observations show that, if the wave characteristics are coincident, or nearly so, with the bottom slope, the upslope propagation of the low-frequency waves causes a line of regularly spaced vortices to form along the slope. Subsequent mixing in the vortex cells creates thin horizontal laminae that are more homogeneous than the adjacent layers. These laminae slowly penetrate the fluid interior, creating a step-like vertical density structure. Available linear theoretical solutions for the velocity in the viscous boundary layer, determined to be valid for certain experimental conditions, are used to develop a criterion for incipient motion of bottom sediment induced by shoaling internal waves. The maximum sediment sizes that can be placed into motion, according to this criterion, are larger than certain mean sediment sizes on the continental margin off New England. This suggests that internal waves might induce initial sediment movement. Speculation about the geological effects of breaking and vortex instabilities is also given. These processes, not definitely measured in the field as yet, might also be conducive to sediment movement.

Description: This work was supported by the Office of Naval Research.