Abstract
The directional spectrum of wind waves was observed using seven wave gauges at the marine observation tower. Directional spectrum was calculated by the method described inFujinawa (1974 a) which assures the high directional resolving power. Under the nearly uniform condition of the wind the process of wave development was studied by the use of the data of the directional spectrum. The analysis revealed that, 1) the mean wave direction does not necessarily coincide with the wind direction, 2) the directional spreading is much narrower than hitherto reported, 3) the growth rate is closely proportional to the square of cosine of the angle between the wave direction and the wind direction, 4) the resonancetype wave-wave interaction plays only minor role in the process of wave development for any wave component in the earlier stage of development and for the most rapidly developing component in the main stage of development.
This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.
Similar content being viewed by others
References
Barber, N. F. (1961): The directional resolving power of an array of wave detectors. Ocean Wave Spectra. Englewood Cliffs, N. J., Prentice Hall, Inc., 137–150.
Barnett, T. P. (1968): On the generation, dissipation, and prediction of ocean wind waves. J. Geophys. Res.,73, 513–529.
Barnett, T. P. (1971): An international attempt to understand wind generated ocean waves. Final Report Contract No. 0014-68-C-0366, Office of Naval Research.
Blackman, R. B. and J. W.Tukey (1958): The Measurement of Power Spectra. Dover Publ.
Cartwright, D. E. and N. D.Smith (1964): Buoy techniques for obtaining directional wave spectra. Marine Technology Soc., 112–121.
Charnock, H. (1955): Wind-stress on a water surface. Quart. J. Roy. Meteor. Soc.,81, 630–640.
Davies, R. E. (1972): On prediction of the turbulent flow over a wavy boundary. J. Fluid Mech.,52, 287–306.
Fujinawa, Y. (1974a): Measurement of directional spectrum of wind waves using an array of wave detectors. Part I: A new technique of evaluation. J. Oceanog. Soc. Japan,30, 10–21.
Fujinawa, Y. (1974b): A model on the mechanism of the momentum transfer from turbulent atmosphere to water waves. J. Oceanog. Soc. Japan,30, 97–107.
Garrett, J. F. (1963): Field observation of frequency domain statistics and nonlinear effects on wind-generated waves. Ph. D. thesis, Univ. British Columbia.
Gilchrist, A. W. R. (1966): The directional spectrum of ocean waves: an experimental investigation of certain prediction of the Miles-Phillips theory of wave generation. J. Fluid Mech.,25, 795–816.
Hasselmann, K. (1962): On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity wave spectrum Part 1. J. Fluid Mech.,12, 481–500.
Hasselmann, K. (1963): On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity wave spectrum. Part 3. J. Fluid Mech.,15, 385–398.
Inoue, T. (1967): On the growth of the spectrum of a wind generated sea according to a modified Miles-Phillips mechanism and its application to wave forecasting. Geophys. Sci. Lab. Rep. No. TR67-5, New York Univ.
Iwata, N. (1971): Directional energy distribution of wind waves. J. Oceanog. Soc. Japan,27, 102–108.
Kondo, J. andG. Naito (1972): Disturbed wind fields around the obstacles in sheared flow near the ground surface. J. Meteorol. Soc. Japan,50, 346–354.
Landau, L. D. and E. M.Lifshitz (1959): Fluid Mechanics. Pergamon Press.
Longuet-Higgins, M.S., D.E. Cartwright andN. D. Smith (1963): Observation of the directional spectrum of sea waves using the motion of a floating buoy. Ocean Wave Spectra. Englewood Cliffs, N. J., Prentice Hall, Inc., 113–136.
Miles, J. W. (1957): On the generation of surface waves by shear flows. J. Fluid Mech.,3, 185–207.
Mitsuyasu, H. (1968): A Note on the nonlinear energy transfer in the spectrum of wind-generated waves. Rep. Res. Inst. Appl. Mech., Kyushu Univ.,16, 251–264.
Mitsuyasu, H., F. Tasai, T. Suhara, S. Mizuno, T. Okusu, T. Honda andK. Rikiishi (1973): Studies on techniques for ocean wave measurements (2)-On the directional spectrum of sea waves. Bull. Res. Inst. Appl. Mech., Kyushu Univ.,40, 295–329. (in Japanese)
Mobarek, I. E. S. (1965): Directional spectra of laboratory wind waves. Proc. A.S.C.E., WW3, 91–116.
Phillips, O. M. (1957): On the generation of waves by turbulent wind. J. Fluid Mech.,2, 417–445.
Phillips, O. M. (1966): Dynamics of the Upper Ocean. Camb. Univ. Press.
Snodgrass, F. E., G. W. Groves, K. F. Hasselmann, G. R. Miller, W. H. Munk andW. H. Powers (1966): Propagation of ocean swell across the Pacific. Phil, Trans.,259, 431–497.
Townsend, A. A. (1972): Flow in a deep trubulent boundary layer over a surface distorted by water waves. J. Fluid Mech.,55, 719–736.
Yefimov, V. M. (1970): On the structure of the wind velocity field in the atmospheric near-water layer and the transfer of wind energy to sea waves. Izv. Atmos. Oceanic Phys.,6, 1043–1058.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
About this article
Cite this article
Fujinawa, Y. Measurements of directional spectrum of wind waves using an array of wave detectors Part II. Field observation. Journal of the Oceanographical Society of Japan 31, 25–42 (1975). https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02108216
Received:
Revised:
Issue Date:
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02108216