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  • 11
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    Effect of roughness formulation on the performance of a coupled wave, hydrodynamic, and sediment transport model (2010)
    Elsevier B.V.
    Details
    Publication Date: 2022-05-25
    Description: This paper is not subject to U.S. copyright. The definitive version was published in Ocean Modelling 33 (2010): 299-313, doi:10.1016/j.ocemod.2010.03.003.
    Description: A variety of algorithms are available for parameterizing the hydrodynamic bottom roughness associated with grain size, saltation, bedforms, and wave–current interaction in coastal ocean models. These parameterizations give rise to spatially and temporally variable bottom-drag coefficients that ostensibly provide better representations of physical processes than uniform and constant coefficients. However, few studies have been performed to determine whether improved representation of these variable bottom roughness components translates into measurable improvements in model skill. We test the hypothesis that improved representation of variable bottom roughness improves performance with respect to near-bed circulation, bottom stresses, or turbulence dissipation. The inner shelf south of Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts, is the site of sorted grain-size features which exhibit sharp alongshore variations in grain size and ripple geometry over gentle bathymetric relief; this area provides a suitable testing ground for roughness parameterizations. We first establish the skill of a nested regional model for currents, waves, stresses, and turbulent quantities using a uniform and constant roughness; we then gauge model skill with various parameterization of roughness, which account for the influence of the wave-boundary layer, grain size, saltation, and rippled bedforms. We find that commonly used representations of ripple-induced roughness, when combined with a wave–current interaction routine, do not significantly improve skill for circulation, and significantly decrease skill with respect to stresses and turbulence dissipation. Ripple orientation with respect to dominant currents and ripple shape may be responsible for complicating a straightforward estimate of the roughness contribution from ripples. In addition, sediment-induced stratification may be responsible for lower stresses than predicted by the wave–current interaction model.
    Description: Funding was provided through the Office of Naval Research Ripples DRI and U.S. Geological Survey Coastal and Marine Geology Program.
    Keywords: Sediment transport ; Roughness ; Bottom-boundary layer ; Model skill
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
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  • 12
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    Formation dynamics of subsurface hydrocarbon intrusions following the Deepwater Horizon blowout (2011)
    American Geophysical Union
    Details
    Publication Date: 2022-05-25
    Description: Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2011. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Geophysical Research Letters 38 (2011): L09602, doi:10.1029/2011GL047174.
    Description: Hydrocarbons released following the Deepwater Horizon (DH) blowout were found in deep, subsurface horizontal intrusions, yet there has been little discussion about how these intrusions formed. We have combined measured (or estimated) observations from the DH release with empirical relationships developed from previous lab experiments to identify the mechanisms responsible for intrusion formation and to characterize the DH plume. Results indicate that the intrusions originate from a stratification-dominated multiphase plume characterized by multiple subsurface intrusions containing dissolved gas and oil along with small droplets of liquid oil. Unlike earlier lab measurements, where the potential density in ambient water decreased linearly with elevation, at the DH site it varied quadratically. We have modified our method for estimating intrusion elevation under these conditions and the resulting estimates agree with observations that the majority of the hydrocarbons were found between 800 and 1200 m.
    Description: Funding for this project was supported by the National Science Foundation under RAPID grants CBET‐1045831, CBET‐1046890, and OCE‐1048976, and by the U. S. Geological Survey, Coastal and Marine Geology Program.
    Keywords: Deepwater Horizon ; Fluid dynamics ; Intrusion ; Multiphase flow ; Oil well blowout ; Plume
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
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  • 13
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    Sediment transport and deposition on a river-dominated tidal flat : an idealized model study (2010)
    American Geophysical Union
    Details
    Publication Date: 2022-05-26
    Description: Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2010. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 115 (2010): C10040, doi:10.1029/2010JC006248.
    Description: A 3-D hydrodynamic model is used to investigate how different size classes of river-derived sediment are transported, exported and trapped on an idealized, river-dominated tidal flat. The model is composed of a river channel flanked by sloping tidal flats, a configuration motivated by the intertidal region of the Skagit River mouth in Washington State, United States. It is forced by mixed tides and a pulse of freshwater and sediment with various settling velocities. In this system, the river not only influences stratification but also contributes a significant cross-shore transport. As a result, the bottom stress is strongly ebb-dominated in the channel because of the seaward advance of strong river flow as the tidal flats drain during ebbs. Sediment deposition patterns and mass budgets are sensitive to settling velocity. The lateral sediment spreading scales with an advective distance (settling time multiplied by lateral flow speed), thereby confining the fast settling sediment classes in the channel. Residual sediment transport is landward on the flats, because of settling lag, but is strongly seaward in the channel. The seaward transport mainly occurs during big ebbs and is controlled by a length scale ratio Ld/XWL, where Ld is a cross-shore advective distance (settling time multiplied by river outlet velocity), and XWL is the immersed cross-shore length of the intertidal zone. Sediment trapping requires Ld/XWL 〈 1, leading to more trapping for the faster settling classes. Sensitivity studies show that including stratification and reducing tidal range both favor sediment trapping, whereas varying channel geometries and asymmetry of tides has relatively small impacts. Implications of the modeling results on the south Skagit intertidal region are discussed.
    Description: SNC is supported by a WHOI/USGS postdoctoral scholarship. The field program on the Skagit intertidal region is supported by an ONR grant N00014-08-1-0790.
    Keywords: Sediment trapping ; Tidal flat
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
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  • 14
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    Inundation of a barrier island (Chandeleur Islands, Louisiana, USA) during a hurricane : observed water-level gradients and modeled seaward sand transport (2014)
    John Wiley & Sons
    Details
    Publication Date: 2022-05-26
    Description: Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2014. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface 119 (2014): 1498–1515, doi:10.1002/2013JF003069.
    Description: Large geomorphic changes to barrier islands may occur during inundation, when storm surge exceeds island elevation. Inundation occurs episodically and under energetic conditions that make quantitative observations difficult. We measured water levels on both sides of a barrier island in the northern Chandeleur Islands during inundation by Hurricane Isaac. Wind patterns caused the water levels to slope from the bay side to the ocean side for much of the storm. Modeled geomorphic changes during the storm were very sensitive to the cross-island slopes imposed by water-level boundary conditions. Simulations with equal or landward sloping water levels produced the characteristic barrier island storm response of overwash deposits or displaced berms with smoother final topography. Simulations using the observed seaward sloping water levels produced cross-barrier channels and deposits of sand on the ocean side, consistent with poststorm observations. This sensitivity indicates that accurate water-level boundary conditions must be applied on both sides of a barrier to correctly represent the geomorphic response to inundation events. More broadly, the consequence of seaward transport is that it alters the relationship between storm intensity and volume of landward transport. Sand transported to the ocean side may move downdrift, or aid poststorm recovery by moving onto the beach face or closing recent breaches, but it does not contribute to island transgression or appear as an overwash deposit in the back-barrier stratigraphic record. The high vulnerability of the Chandeleur Islands allowed us to observe processes that are infrequent but may be important at other barrier islands.
    Description: 2015-01-15
    Keywords: Barrier island evolution ; Morphology ; Sediment transport ; Inundation ; Geomorphic modeling
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
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  • 15
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    Tidal variation in cohesive sediment distribution and sensitivity to flocculation and bed consolidation in an idealized, partially mixed estuary (2020)
    MDPI
    Details
    Publication Date: 2022-10-27
    Description: © The Author(s), 2019. This article is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License. The definitive version was published in Tarpley, D. R. N., Harris, C. K., Friedrichs, C. T., & Sherwood, C. R. Tidal variation in cohesive sediment distribution and sensitivity to flocculation and bed consolidation in an idealized, partially mixed estuary. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 7(10), (2019): 334, doi: 10.3390/jmse7100334.
    Description: Particle settling velocity and erodibility are key factors that govern the transport of sediment through coastal environments including estuaries. These are difficult to parameterize in models that represent mud, whose properties can change in response to many factors, including tidally varying suspended sediment concentration (SSC) and shear stress. Using the COAWST (Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport) model framework, we implemented bed consolidation, sediment-induced stratification, and flocculation formulations within an idealized two-dimensional domain that represented the longitudinal dimension of a micro-tidal, muddy, partially mixed estuary. Within the Estuarine Turbidity Maximum (ETM), SSC and median floc diameter varied by a factor of four over the tidal cycle. Downstream of the ETM, the median floc size and SSC were several times smaller and showed less tidal variation (~20% or less). The suspended floc distributions only reached an equilibrium size as a function of SSC and shear in the ETM at peak tidal flow. In general, flocculation increased particle size, which reduced SSC by half in the ETM through increased settling velocity. Consolidation also limited SSC by reduced resuspension, which then limited floc growth through reduced SSC by half outside of the ETM. Sediment-induced stratification had negligible effects in the parameter space examined. Efforts to lessen the computation cost of the flocculation routine by reducing the number of size classes proved difficult; floc size distribution and SSC were sensitive to specification of size classes by factors of 60% and 300%, respectively.
    Description: This research was funded by NSF, grant number OCE-1459708.
    Keywords: COAWST ; Numerical model ; Flocculation dynamics ; Cohesive sediment
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  • 16
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    Shoaling wave shape estimates from field observations and derived bedload sediment rates (2022)
    MDPI
    Details
    Publication Date: 2022-10-27
    Description: © The Author(s), 2022. This article is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License. The definitive version was published in Kalra, T. S., Suttles, S. E., Sherwood, C. R., Warner, J. C., Aretxabaleta, A. L., & Leavitt, G. R. Shoaling wave shape estimates from field observations and derived bedload sediment rates. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 10(2), (2022): 223, https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10020223.
    Description: he shoaling transformation from generally linear deep-water waves to asymmetric shallow-water waves modifies wave shapes and causes near-bed orbital velocities to become asymmetrical, contributing to net sediment transport. In this work, we used two methods to estimate the asymmetric wave shape from data at three sites. The first method converted wave measurements made at the surface to idealized near-bottom wave-orbital velocities using a set of empirical equations: the “parameterized” waveforms. The second method involved direct measurements of velocities and pressure made near the seabed: the “direct” waveforms. Estimates from the two methods were well correlated at all three sites (Pearson’s correlation coefficient greater than 0.85). Both methods were used to drive bedload-transport calculations that accounted for asymmetric waves, and the results were compared with a traditional excess-stress formulation and field estimates of bedload transport derived from ripple migration rates based on sonar imagery. The cumulative bedload transport from the parameterized waveform was 25% greater than the direct waveform, mainly because the parameterized waveform did not account for negative skewness. Calculated transport rates were comparable to rates estimated from ripple migration except during the largest event, when calculated rates were as much as 100 times greater, which occurred during high period waves.
    Description: USGS Coastal and Marine Hazards and Resources Program.
    Keywords: Asymmetric waveform ; Wave shape parameterization ; Sediment transport
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  • 17
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    Modeling the morphodynamics of coastal responses to extreme events: what shape are we in? (2022)
    Annual Reviews
    Details
    Publication Date: 2022-10-27
    Description: This paper is not subject to U.S. copyright. The definitive version was published in Sherwood, C. R., van Dongeren, A., Doyle, J., Hegermiller, C. A., Hsu, T.-J., Kalra, T. S., Olabarrieta, M., Penko, A. M., Rafati, Y., Roelvink, D., van der Lugt, M., Veeramony, J., & Warner, J. C. Modeling the morphodynamics of coastal responses to extreme events: what shape are we in? Annual Review of Marine Science, 14, (2022): 457–492, https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev-marine-032221-090215.
    Description: This review focuses on recent advances in process-based numerical models of the impact of extreme storms on sandy coasts. Driven by larger-scale models of meteorology and hydrodynamics, these models simulate morphodynamics across the Sallenger storm-impact scale, including swash,collision, overwash, and inundation. Models are becoming both wider (as more processes are added) and deeper (as detailed physics replaces earlier parameterizations). Algorithms for wave-induced flows and sediment transport under shoaling waves are among the recent developments. Community and open-source models have become the norm. Observations of initial conditions (topography, land cover, and sediment characteristics) have become more detailed, and improvements in tropical cyclone and wave models provide forcing (winds, waves, surge, and upland flow) that is better resolved and more accurate, yielding commensurate improvements in model skill. We foresee that future storm-impact models will increasingly resolve individual waves, apply data assimilation, and be used in ensemble modeling modes to predict uncertainties.
    Description: All authors except D.R. were partially supported by the IFMSIP project, funded by US Office of Naval Research grant PE 0601153N under contracts N00014-17-1-2459 (Deltares), N00014-18-1-2785 (University of Delaware), N0001419WX00733 (US Naval Research Laboratory, Monterey), N0001418WX01447 (US Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center), and N0001418IP00016 (US Geological Survey). C.R.S., C.A.H., T.S.K., and J.C.W. were supported by the US Geological Survey Coastal/Marine Hazards and Resources Program. A.v.D. and M.v.d.L. were supported by the Deltares Strategic Research project Quantifying Flood Hazards and Impacts. M.O. acknowledges support from National Science Foundation project OCE-1554892.
    Keywords: Coastal morphodynamics ; Extreme storms ; Coastal modeling ; Sandy coasts ; Waves ; Sediment transport
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  • 18
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    Sediment transport model including short-lived radioisotopes: Model description and idealized test cases (2019)
    American Meteorological Society
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    Publication Date: 2022-10-27
    Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2018. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 6(4), (2018): 144. doi:10.3390/jmse6040144.
    Description: Geochronologies derived from sediment cores in coastal locations are often used to infer event bed characteristics such as deposit thicknesses and accumulation rates. Such studies commonly use naturally occurring, short-lived radioisotopes, such as Beryllium-7 (7Be) and Thorium-234 (234Th), to study depositional and post-depositional processes. These radioisotope activities, however, are not generally represented in sediment transport models that characterize coastal flood and storm deposition with grain size patterns and deposit thicknesses. We modified the Community Sediment Transport Modeling System (CSTMS) to account for reactive tracers and used this capability to represent the behavior of these short-lived radioisotopes on the sediment bed. This paper describes the model and presents results from a set of idealized, one-dimensional (vertical) test cases. The model configuration represented fluvial deposition followed by periods of episodic storm resuspension. Sensitivity tests explored the influence on seabed radioisotope profiles by the intensities of bioturbation and wave resuspension and the thickness of fluvial deposits. The intensity of biodiffusion affected the persistence of fluvial event beds as evidenced by 7Be. Both resuspension and biodiffusion increased the modeled seabed inventory of 234Th. A thick fluvial deposit increased the seabed inventory of 7Be and 234Th but mixing over time greatly reduced the difference in inventory of 234Th in fluvial deposits of different thicknesses.
    Description: The Bureau of Ocean Energy Management (BOEM) provided funding for Birchler, Harris, and Kniskern. During his M.S. program Birchler received additional funds from VIMS’ Office of Academic Studies. This work was partially supported by the U.S. Geological Survey, Coastal and Marine Geology Program.
    Keywords: Numerical model ; Sediment transport ; Marine ; Short-lived radioisotopes
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  • 19
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    Advantages and limitations to the use of optical measurements to study sediment properties (2019)
    MDPI
    Details
    Publication Date: 2022-10-27
    Description: © The Author(s), 2018. This article is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License. The definitive version was published in Boss, E., Sherwood, C. R., Hill, P., & Milligan, T. Advantages and limitations to the use of optical measurements to study sediment properties. Applied Sciences-Basel, 8(12), (2018):2692, doi:10.3390/app8122692.
    Description: Measurements of optical properties have been used for decades to study particle distributions in the ocean. They are useful for estimating suspended mass concentration as well as particle-related properties such as size, composition, packing (particle porosity or density), and settling velocity. Measurements of optical properties are, however, biased, as certain particles, because of their size, composition, shape, or packing, contribute to a specific property more than others. Here, we study this issue both theoretically and practically, and we examine different optical properties collected simultaneously in a bottom boundary layer to highlight the utility of such measurements. We show that the biases we are likely to encounter using different optical properties can aid our studies of suspended sediment. In particular, we investigate inferences of settling velocity from vertical profiles of optical measurements, finding that the effects of aggregation dynamics can seldom be ignored.
    Description: This work was supported by the Office of Naval Research and the United States Geological Survey Coastal and Marine Geology Program. The unique instrument platform and data acquisition system was designed and built by technical staff lead by Marinna Martini at the United States Geological Survey Woods Hole Coastal and Marine Science Center. This team was also responsible for deployment and recovery of the instrumentation. We thank the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (WHOI) MVCO staff for support during this experiment, and we thank the captains and crews of the R/V Connecticut and the R/V Tioga. Any use of trade, product, or firm names is for descriptive purposes only and does not imply endorsement by the United States Government. This paper has benefited significantly from insightful comments from D. Stramski, A. Aretxabaleta and two anonymous reviewers.
    Keywords: Particle dynamics ; Optical properties ; Suspended sediment
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  • 20
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    Modeling of barrier breaching during hurricanes Sandy and Matthew (2022)
    American Geophysical Union
    Details
    Publication Date: 2022-10-27
    Description: This paper is not subject to U.S. copyright. The definitive version was published in Hegermiller, C. A., Warner, J. C., Olabarrieta, M., Sherwood, C. R., & Kalra, T. S. Modeling of barrier breaching during hurricanes Sandy and Matthew. Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface, 127(3), (2022): e2021JF006307, https://doi.org/10.1029/2021JF006307.
    Description: Physical processes driving barrier island change during storms are important to understand to mitigate coastal hazards and to evaluate conceptual models for barrier evolution. Spatial variations in barrier island topography, landcover characteristics, and nearshore and back-barrier hydrodynamics can yield complex morphological change that requires models of increasing resolution and physical complexity to predict. Using the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system, we investigated two barrier island breaches that occurred on Fire Island, NY during Hurricane Sandy (2012) and at Matanzas, FL during Hurricane Matthew (2016). The model employed a recently implemented infragravity (IG) wave driver to represent the important effects of IG waves on nearshore water levels and sediment transport. The model simulated breaching and other changes with good skill at both locations, resolving differences in the processes and evolution. The breach simulated at Fire Island was 250 m west of the observed breach, whereas the breach simulated at Matanzas was within 100 m of the observed breach. Implementation of the vegetation module of COAWST to allow three-dimensional drag over dune vegetation at Fire Island improved model skill by decreasing flows across the back-barrier, as opposed to varying bottom roughness that did not positively alter model response. Analysis of breach processes at Matanzas indicated that both far-field and local hydrodynamics influenced breach creation and evolution, including remotely generated waves and surge, but also surge propagation through back-barrier waterways. This work underscores the importance of resolving the complexity of nearshore and back-barrier systems when predicting barrier island change during extreme events.
    Description: C. A. Hegermiller is grateful to the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) Mendenhall Research Fellowship Program for support. This project was supported by the USGS Coastal and Marine Geology Program and the Office of Naval Research, Increasing the Fidelity of Morphological Storm Impact Predictions Project. M. Olabarrieta acknowledges support from the NSF project OCE-1554892.
    Description: 2022-07-26
    Keywords: Breach ; Barrier island ; Hurricane
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