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  • OCEANOGRAPHY
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  • 1
    Publication Date: 2011-08-24
    Description: Using aircraft radar instruments designed for sea surface wave measurements, we have obtained fetch-limited directional wind wave spectra under steady off-shore wind conditions. The results from these observations in different areas at different times show that, up to a fetch of 150 km, the dominant waves propagate at an angle to the wind. The angle is near to that suggested by the Phillips resonance wind wave generation condition, but with one important difference: The waves are not always symmetric to the left and right of the wind. Most of the cases show the eventual dominance of one side lobe. The asymmetry of the wave direction relative to the wind suggests that the surface wind stress vector may not always be parallel to the mean wind direction.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Geophysical Research Letters (ISSN 0094-8276); 21; 23; p. 2503-2506
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  • 2
    Publication Date: 2011-08-24
    Description: A new approach using phase information to view and study the properties of frequency modulation, wave group structures, and wave breaking is presented. The method is applied to ocean wave time series data and a new type of wave group (containing the large 'rogue' waves) is identified. The method also has the capability of broad applications in the analysis of time series data in general.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Geophysical Research Letters (ISSN 0094-8276); 19; 685-688
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  • 3
    Publication Date: 2011-08-19
    Description: Controlled laboratory experiments are reported which demonstrate directly and quantitatively the influence of wave conditions in determining the drag law at the air-sea interface under neutral stability conditions. It is concluded that the analytic form first proposed by Kitaigorodskii (1970) models the roughness scale very well when the sea is dominated by the locally generated waves. It is demonstrated that, by using a unified two-parameter wave spectral model by Huang et al. (1981), Kitaigorodskii's result can be shown to contain the formulas of Charnock (1955) and Hsu (1974) as special cases. The results also identify two wind and wave-related parameters as important in determining the drag coefficient for developing wave fields.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Journal of Geophysical Research (ISSN 0148-0227); 91; 7733-774
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  • 4
    Publication Date: 2011-08-19
    Description: Controlled laboratory experiments have been conducted to study the kinematics of wave-current interactions. The results confirm the conservation of waves under the steady state condition. The data also show that the kinematic effect of the current on waves can be treated as a simple Doppler shift. After the Doppler correction, the kinematics of the waves (either breaking or nonbreaking) follow the linear theory very well.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Journal of Geophysical Research (ISSN 0148-0227); 94; 16201-16
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  • 5
    Publication Date: 2013-08-31
    Description: SWADE was developed to study the dynamics of the wave field development in the open ocean with the following specific objectives: (1) to understand the development of the wave directional spectrum under various conditions; (2) to determine the effect of waves on the air/sea transfers of momentum, heat, and mass; (3) to determine breaking distributions as a function of sea state, wind, and boundary stability; and (4) to provide data and analyses for ERS-1 validation. The experiment is designed for the winter of 1990 to 1991. Four buoys will be deployed for 6 months starting October 1990 and ending March 1991. During that time period, three intensive periods of 2 weeks duration each will be selected for frequent aircraft flights for wave data collection to satisfy scientific studies, as well as ERS-1 validation needs.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Laboratory for Oceans; p 161-162
    Format: application/pdf
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  • 6
    Publication Date: 2011-08-18
    Description: Laboratory experiments were performed to measure the surface elevation probability density function and associated statistical properties for a wind-generated wave field. The laboratory data along with some limited field data were compared. The statistical properties of the surface elevation were processed for comparison with the results derived from the Longuet-Higgins (1963) theory. It is found that, even for the highly non-Gaussian cases, the distribution function proposed by Longuet-Higgins still gives good approximations.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Journal of Fluid Mechanics; 101; Nov. 13
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  • 7
    Publication Date: 2011-08-18
    Description: From an extension of the Wallops Spectrum (Huang et al., 1981) for the deep water waves, spectral models for waves in finite water depths are developed. Stokes wave expansions are found to offer a good approximation for intermediate water depth. The spectral function in this case is controlled by three parameters: the significant slope, the nondimensional depth, and the peak frequency. It is pointed out that solitary and cnoidal wave models must be used for the shallow water waves. The controlling parameters now reduce to the Urell number and the peak frequency. Even though the resulting spectral models place special emphasis on the energy-containing range of the spectrum, they are not limited to this range and they are not limited to any particular sea state. They are seen as offering a possible explanation of the variations in the special slope observed by previous investigators.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Journal of Geophysical Research (ISSN 0148-0227); 88; 9579-958
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  • 8
    Publication Date: 2011-08-18
    Description: Laboratory measurements using both wave probes (contact and optical) and radar confirm the existence of a new type of overshoot phenomenon in the wind-wave development processes. This type of overshoot, which occurs at gravity-capillary wavelengths, is practically a function of local wind stress only. It is named the overshoot phenomenon of the third kind. With the existence of this overshoot it becomes obvious that the assumed simple power-law relationship between the rms value of surface slope at a fixed wavelength and the wind stress is untenable. Since such a relationship is one of the key assumptions invoked in the development of algorithms used in scatterometry, the published scatterometer data are reexamined, pointing out the implications of this overshoot phenomenon. Recommendations for improvement of the performance of the scatterometer are also made in light of this new understanding of the wind-wave development processes.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Journal of Geophysical Research (ISSN 0148-0227); 89; 3679-368
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  • 9
    Publication Date: 2011-08-19
    Description: Techniques for the determination of near-surface mesoscale ocean wind fields on the basis of satellite scatterometer data are developed and demonstrated. The derivation of normal-boundary and parameterized-boundary-condition (PBC) wind-field models is outlined, and results from a simulation performed to estimate the model errors are presented in tables. It is shown that the PBC model provides accurate results while minimizing the number of unknowns. After a review of the principles of scatterometry and an analysis of scatterometer measurement noise, an objective function for the measurement parameters is developed and optimized on the basis of gradient search with initial values computed from pointwise wind estimates. The model is then applied to data from a simulation of the NASA Scatterometer (Li et al., 1984), and the results are presented in extensive graphs. The feasibility of model-based wind-field estimation and the appropriateness of the PBC model are demonstrated.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: IEEE Transactions on Geoscience and Remote Sensing (ISSN 0196-2892); 28; 349-373
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  • 10
    Publication Date: 2011-08-19
    Description: The effect of wave breaking on the probability function of surface elevation is examined. The surface elevation limited by wave breaking zeta sub b(t) is first related to the original wave elevation zeta(t) and its second derivative. An approximate, second-order, nonlinear, non-Gaussian model for zeta(t) of arbitrary but moderate bandwidth is presented, and an expression for the probability density function zeta sub b(t) is derived. The results show clearly that the effect of wave breaking on the probability density function of surface elevation is to introduce a secondary hump on the positive side of the probability density function, a phenomenon also observed in wind wave tank experiments.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Journal of Geophysical Research (ISSN 0148-0227); 94; 967-972
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