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  • 1
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    A study of the relationship among wind speed, sea state, and the drag coefficient for a developing wave field (1986)
    In:  Other Sources
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    Publication Date: 2011-08-19
    Description: Controlled laboratory experiments are reported which demonstrate directly and quantitatively the influence of wave conditions in determining the drag law at the air-sea interface under neutral stability conditions. It is concluded that the analytic form first proposed by Kitaigorodskii (1970) models the roughness scale very well when the sea is dominated by the locally generated waves. It is demonstrated that, by using a unified two-parameter wave spectral model by Huang et al. (1981), Kitaigorodskii's result can be shown to contain the formulas of Charnock (1955) and Hsu (1974) as special cases. The results also identify two wind and wave-related parameters as important in determining the drag coefficient for developing wave fields.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Journal of Geophysical Research (ISSN 0148-0227); 91; 7733-774
    Format: text
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  • 2
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    The effect of wave breaking on wave spectrum in water of finite depth (1987)
    In:  Other Sources
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    Publication Date: 2011-08-19
    Description: An approximate method is devised to compute the energy-containing portion of the spectrum of waves in water of finite depth, taking into account the effect of wave breaking. It is assumed that there exists a linear and Gaussian ideal wave train whose spectrum is first calculated using the wave energy flux balance equation without considering wave breaking. The Miche wave-breaking criterion for waves in water of finite depth is then applied to limit the wave elevation and establish an expression for the breaking wave elevation in terms of the elevation and elevation's second time derivative of the ideal waves. Simple expressions for the mean value, the mean square value, and the spectrum of the breaking waves are then obtained, and numerical results are presented graphically.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Journal of Geophysical Research (ISSN 0148-0227); 92; 5125-513
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  • 3
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    Effect of current on spectrum of breaking waves in water of finite depth (1987)
    In:  Other Sources
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    Publication Date: 2011-08-19
    Description: This paper presents an approximate method to compute the mean value, the mean square value and the spectrum of waves in water of finite depth taking into account the effect of wave breaking with or without the presence of current. It is assumed that there exists a linear and Gaussian ideal wave train whose spectrum is first obtained using the wave energy flux balance equation without considering wave breaking. The Miche wave breaking criterion for waves in finite water depth is used to limit the wave elevation and establish an expression for the breaking wave elevation in terms of the elevation and its second time derivative of the ideal waves. Simple expressions for the mean value, the mean square value and the spectrum are obtained. These results are applied to the case in which a deep water unidirectional wave train, propagating normally towards a straight shoreline over gently varying sea bottom of parallel and straight contours, encounters an adverse steady current whose velocity is assumed to be uniformly distributed with depth. Numerical results are obtained and presented in graphical form.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Probabilistic Engineering Mechanics (ISSN 0266-8920); 2; 121-128
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  • 4
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    The influence of the directional energy distribution on the nonlinear dispersion relation in a random gravity wave field (1977)
    In:  Other Sources
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    Publication Date: 2011-08-17
    Description: The influence of the directional distribution of wave energy on the dispersion relation is calculated numerically using various directional wave spectrum models. The results indicate that the dispersion relation varies both as a function of the directional energy distribution and the direction of propagation of the wave component under consideration. Furthermore, both the mean deviation and the random scatter from the linear approximation increase as the energy spreading decreases. Limited observational data are compared with the theoretical results. The agreement is favorable.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Journal of Physical Oceanography; 7; May 1977
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  • 5
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    The effect of oceanic whitecaps and foams on pulse-limited radar altimeters (1983)
    In:  Other Sources
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    Publication Date: 2011-08-18
    Description: Based on electromagnetic field theory of stratified media, the microwave reflectivity of a sea surface covered by whitecaps and foams at 13.9 GHz was computed. The computed results show that the reflectivity declines with increasing thickness of foams. The reflectivity of the sea surface without any whitecaps or foams is 0.6066 (20 C, S:35 per thousand), but it will be less than 0.15 when the thickness of foam cover is more than 0.3 cm. While gathering the data of whitecap and foam coverage in situ and reviewing whitecapping models, it can be shown that the effect of oceanic whitecaps and foams on the measured results of a pulse-limited radar altimeter working at high frequencies will not be negligible in high sea state conditions.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Journal of Geophysical Research; 88; Mar. 20
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  • 6
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    A note on the comparison of radar altimetry with IR and in situ data for the detection of the Gulf Stream surface boundaries (1979)
    In:  Other Sources
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    Publication Date: 2011-08-17
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Journal of Geophysical Research; 84; July 30
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  • 7
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    Large-scale Gulf Stream frontal study using GEOS 3 radar altimeter data (1978)
    In:  Other Sources
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    Publication Date: 2011-08-17
    Description: From data obtained by the GEOS 3 radar altimeter, sea surface heights are found by both editing and filtering the raw sea surface height measurements and then referencing these processed data to a 5 foot by 5 foot geoid. Any trend between the processed data and the geoid is removed by subtracting out a linear fit to the residuals in the open ocean. Data from individual passes are further processed by applying a minimum variance technique at the subsatellite crossing points to produce surface topography maps for the 6 months and an overall mean map which reveal important details about the Gulf Stream system. The differences between the monthly mean and the overall mean are calculated for each of the 6 months to show the temporal and spatial changes of the Gulf Stream front and spawned eddies. The standard deviation map is even more informative and shows preferred locations of Gulf Stream meanders.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
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  • 8
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    New developments in satellite oceanography and current measurements (1979)
    In:  Other Sources
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    Publication Date: 2011-08-17
    Description: Principal satellite remote sensing techniques and instruments are described and attention is given to the application of such techniques to ocean current measurement. The use of radiometers, satellite tracking drifters, and altimeters for current measurement is examined. Consideration is also given to other applications of satellite remote sensing in physical oceanography, including measurements of surface wind stress, sea state, tides, ice, sea surface temperature, salinity, ocean color, and oceanic leveling.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
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  • 9
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    An experimental study of the surface elevation probability distribution and statistics of wind-generated waves (1980)
    In:  Other Sources
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    Publication Date: 2011-08-18
    Description: Laboratory experiments were performed to measure the surface elevation probability density function and associated statistical properties for a wind-generated wave field. The laboratory data along with some limited field data were compared. The statistical properties of the surface elevation were processed for comparison with the results derived from the Longuet-Higgins (1963) theory. It is found that, even for the highly non-Gaussian cases, the distribution function proposed by Longuet-Higgins still gives good approximations.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Journal of Fluid Mechanics; 101; Nov. 13
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  • 10
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    On surface drift currents in the ocean (1979)
    In:  Other Sources
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    Publication Date: 2011-08-17
    Description: It is pointed out that the motion of the surface water over the world's oceans is a critical factor in controlling the large-scale transport processes of mass, momentum, and energy. It is also the key to solving the global air-sea interaction problem. The formulation used in the reported analysis is based on that of Leibovich (1977) with the essential modification of adding the Coriolis term so that the Ekman drift can be included. This modification does not invalidate the results of Craik and Leibovich (1976) and Leibovich (1977), which are primarily for the small-scale motions, but rather extends their work to cover large-scale mean motion. The results of the model indicate that the sea state could have strong influence on surface drift currents in the ocean. A classification scheme is proposed to explain the highly variable conditions of the surface drift currents.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Journal of Fluid Mechanics; 91; Mar. 9
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