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  • 1
    Publication Date: 2011-08-19
    Description: Controlled laboratory experiments are reported which demonstrate directly and quantitatively the influence of wave conditions in determining the drag law at the air-sea interface under neutral stability conditions. It is concluded that the analytic form first proposed by Kitaigorodskii (1970) models the roughness scale very well when the sea is dominated by the locally generated waves. It is demonstrated that, by using a unified two-parameter wave spectral model by Huang et al. (1981), Kitaigorodskii's result can be shown to contain the formulas of Charnock (1955) and Hsu (1974) as special cases. The results also identify two wind and wave-related parameters as important in determining the drag coefficient for developing wave fields.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Journal of Geophysical Research (ISSN 0148-0227); 91; 7733-774
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  • 2
    Publication Date: 2011-08-18
    Description: From an extension of the Wallops Spectrum (Huang et al., 1981) for the deep water waves, spectral models for waves in finite water depths are developed. Stokes wave expansions are found to offer a good approximation for intermediate water depth. The spectral function in this case is controlled by three parameters: the significant slope, the nondimensional depth, and the peak frequency. It is pointed out that solitary and cnoidal wave models must be used for the shallow water waves. The controlling parameters now reduce to the Urell number and the peak frequency. Even though the resulting spectral models place special emphasis on the energy-containing range of the spectrum, they are not limited to this range and they are not limited to any particular sea state. They are seen as offering a possible explanation of the variations in the special slope observed by previous investigators.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Journal of Geophysical Research (ISSN 0148-0227); 88; 9579-958
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  • 3
    Publication Date: 2011-08-18
    Description: Laboratory measurements using both wave probes (contact and optical) and radar confirm the existence of a new type of overshoot phenomenon in the wind-wave development processes. This type of overshoot, which occurs at gravity-capillary wavelengths, is practically a function of local wind stress only. It is named the overshoot phenomenon of the third kind. With the existence of this overshoot it becomes obvious that the assumed simple power-law relationship between the rms value of surface slope at a fixed wavelength and the wind stress is untenable. Since such a relationship is one of the key assumptions invoked in the development of algorithms used in scatterometry, the published scatterometer data are reexamined, pointing out the implications of this overshoot phenomenon. Recommendations for improvement of the performance of the scatterometer are also made in light of this new understanding of the wind-wave development processes.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Journal of Geophysical Research (ISSN 0148-0227); 89; 3679-368
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  • 4
    Publication Date: 2019-06-28
    Description: Probability density function of the surface elevation of a nonlinear random wave field is obtained. The wave model is based on the Stokes expansion carried to the third order for both deep water waves and waves in finite depth. The amplitude and phase of the first-order component of the Stokes wave are assumed to be Rayleigh and uniformly distributed and slowly varying, respectively. The probability density function for the deep water case was found to depend on two parameters: the root-mean-square surface elevation and the significant slope. For water of finite depth, an additional parameter, the nondimensional depth, is also required. An important difference between the present result and the Gram-Charlier representation is that the present probability density functions are always nonnegative. It is also found that the 'constant' term in the Stokes expansion, usually neglected in deterministic studies, plays an important role in determining the details of the density function. The results compare well with laboratory and field experiment data.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: AD-A139409 , Journal of Geophysical Research (ISSN 0148-0227); 88; Sept. 20
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  • 5
    Publication Date: 2019-06-28
    Description: On the basis of the mapping method developed by Huang et al. (1983), an analytic expression for the non-Gaussian joint probability density function of slope and elevation for nonlinear gravity waves is derived. Various conditional and marginal density functions are also obtained through the joint density function. The analytic results are compared with a series of carefully controlled laboratory observations, and good agreement is noted. Furthermore, the laboratory wind wave field observations indicate that the capillary or capillary-gravity waves may not be the dominant components in determining the total roughness of the wave field. Thus, the analytic results, though derived specifically for the gravity waves, may have more general applications.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Journal of Geophysical Research (ISSN 0148-0227); 89; 1961-197
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  • 6
    Publication Date: 2019-07-13
    Description: Wave breaking is proposed as the primary energy dissipation mechanism for the gravity wave field. The energy dissipation rate is calculated based on the statistical model proposed by Longuet-Higgins (1969) with a modification of the breaking criterion incorporating the surface stress according to Phillips and Banner (1974). From this modified model, an analytic expression is found for the wave attenuation rate and the half-life time of the wave field which depend only on the significant slope of the wave field and the ratio of friction velocity to initial wave phase velocity. These expressions explain why the freshly generated wave field does not last long, but why swells are capable of propagating long distances without substantial change in energy density. It is shown that breaking is many orders of magnitude more effective in dissipating wave energy than the molecular viscosity, if the significant slope is higher than 0.01. Limited observational data from satellite and laboratory are used to compare with the analytic results, and show good agreement.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: 1983 International Geoscience and Remote Sensing Symposium (IGARSS ''83); Aug 31, 1983 - Sep 02, 1983; San Francisco, CA
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  • 7
    Publication Date: 2019-07-12
    Description: The relationships between the gas exchange, wind speed, friction velocity, and radar backscatter from the water surface was investigated using data obtained in a large water tank in the Delft (Netherlands) wind-wave tunnel, filled with water supersaturated with SF6, N2O, and CH4. Results indicate that the gas-transfer velocities of these substances were related to the wind speed with a power law dependence. Microwave backscatter from water surface was found to be related to gas transfer velocities by a relationship in the form k(gas) = a 10 exp (b A0), where k is the gas transfer velocity for the particular gas, the values of a and b are obtained from a least squares fit of the average backscatter cross section and gas transfer at 80 m, and A0 is the directional (azimuthal) averaged return.
    Keywords: OCEANOGRAPHY
    Type: Journal of Geophysical Research (ISSN 0148-0227); 96; 2785-279
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