Publication Date:
2022-05-25
Description:
This paper is not subject to U.S. copyright. The definitive version was published in Coastal Engineering 136 (2018): 147-160, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2018.01.003.
Description:
The performance of a linear depth inversion algorithm, cBathy, applied to coastal video imagery was assessed using observations of water depth from vessel-based hydrographic surveys and in-situ altimeters for a wide range of wave conditions (0.3 〈 significant wave height 〈 4.3 m) on a sandy Atlantic Ocean beach near Duck, North Carolina. Comparisons of video-based cBathy bathymetry with surveyed bathymetry were similar to previous studies (root mean square error (RMSE) = 0.75 m, bias = −0.26 m). However, the cross-shore locations of the surfzone sandbar in video-derived bathymetry were biased onshore 18–40 m relative to the survey when offshore wave heights exceeded 1.2 m or were greater than half of the bar crest depth, and broke over the sandbar. The onshore bias was 3–4 m when wave heights were less than 0.8 m and were not breaking over the sandbar. Comparisons of video-derived seafloor elevations with in-situ altimeter data at three locations onshore of, near, and offshore of the surfzone sandbar over ∼1 year provide the first assessment of the cBathy technique over a wide range of wave conditions. In the outer surf zone, video-derived results were consistent with long-term patterns of bathymetric change (r2 = 0.64, RMSE = 0.26 m, bias = −0.01 m), particularly when wave heights were less than 1.2 m (r2 = 0.83). However, during storms when wave heights exceeded 3 m, video-based cBathy over-estimated the depth by up to 2 m. Near the sandbar, the sign of depth errors depended on the location relative to wave breaking, with video-based depths overestimated (underestimated) offshore (onshore) of wave breaking in the surfzone. Wave speeds estimated by video-based cBathy at the initiation of wave breaking often were twice the speeds predicted by linear theory, and up to three times faster than linear theory during storms. Estimated wave speeds were half as fast as linear theory predictions at the termination of wave breaking shoreward of the sandbar. These results suggest that video-based cBathy should not be used to track the migration of the surfzone sandbar using data when waves are breaking over the bar nor to quantify morphological evolution during storms. However, these results show that during low energy conditions, cBathy estimates could be used to quantify seasonal patterns of seafloor evolution.
Description:
This research was funded by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Coastal Field Data Collection Program, the Deputy Assistant Secretary of the Army for Research and Technology under ERDC's research program titled “Force Projection Entry Operations, STO D.GRD.2015.34”, the U.S. Naval Research Laboratory base program from the Office of Naval Research, a Vannevar Bush Faculty Fellowship funded by the Assistant Secretary of Defense for Research and Engineering, and the National Science Foundation.
Keywords:
Remote sensing
;
Beach morphology
;
Depth inversion
;
Bathymetry estimation
;
Video imaging
;
Surfzone
Repository Name:
Woods Hole Open Access Server
Type:
Article
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