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  • 1
    Call number: ZSP-686-258
    In: Report
    Type of Medium: Monograph available for loan
    Pages: 22 S. + Appendixes : 30 cm
    ISSN: 0937-1060
    Series Statement: Report / Max-Planck-Institut für Meteorologie 258
    Branch Library: GFZ Library
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  • 2
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Springer
    Molecular genetics and genomics 83 (1949), S. 106-135 
    ISSN: 1617-4623
    Source: Springer Online Journal Archives 1860-2000
    Topics: Biology
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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  • 3
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Springer
    Monatshefte für Chemie 59 (1932), S. 61-72 
    ISSN: 1434-4475
    Source: Springer Online Journal Archives 1860-2000
    Topics: Chemistry and Pharmacology
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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  • 4
    ISSN: 1616-7228
    Source: Springer Online Journal Archives 1860-2000
    Topics: Geosciences , Physics
    Description / Table of Contents: Zusammenfassung Es werden numerische Simulationen der Refraktion von Oberflächenwasserwellen (Dünungen), die zwischen Orkney- und Shetlandinseln bzw. Shetlandinseln und Norwegen in die Nordsee einlaufen, benutzt, um die Abweichungen der Laufzeit, Laufrichtung und die seitliche Verschiebung von sogenannten Strahlen, entlang denen die Wellen laufen, zu bestimmen, wenn man (1) Strahlen, bei denen keine Refraktion (Tiefwasser), wohl aber Shoaling berücksichtigt wurde mit Strahlen, bei denen beides berücksichtigt wurde, vergleicht, und wenn (2) zusätzlich die Einfallsrichtung und die Frequenz der Dünung variiert wird. Die Ergebnisse zeigen, daß die Refraktion von Dünungswellen wichtig ist und in numerischen Seegangsvorhersagemodellen berücksichtigt werden sollte. Für die betrachteten Fälle zeigt sich, daß die Unterschiede in der Laufzeit, Laufrichtung und der seitlichen Verschiebung größer sind als typische Werte von Zeitschritt, Gitterabstand und Richtungsauflösung, wie sie gegenwärtig in Seegangsvorhersagemodellen für Flachwasser benutzt werden.
    Abstract: Résumé Des simulations numériques de la réfraction de la houle qui entrent dans la mer du Nord par un passage entre les îles d'Orkney et les Shetlands et la Norwège permettent de determiner les erreurs sur le temps de parcours, la déflexion angulaire et le déplacement latéral des rayons (1) en tenant compte de la variation de la vitesse de groupe en fonction de la profondeur, mais en négligeant la réfraction des rayons en eau profonde et (2) en perturbant la fréquence initiale de la houle et sa direction incidente. Les résultats montrent que la réfraction en profondeur de la houle est importante et devrait être prise en compte correctement dans les modèles numériques de prédiction de houle. Les différences obtenues dans les cas considéres sur le temps de trajet, la déflexion angulaire et le déplacement latéral sont supérieures aux valeurs typiques des pas de temps et d'espace et de la résolution directionelle utilisés dans les modèles prédictifs de houle en eau peu profonde.
    Notes: Summary Numerical simulations of water wave refraction entering the North Sea between the Orkney-Shetland and Shetland-Norway are used to determine the expected errors in travel time, angular deflection and lateral displacement of ray paths when (1) accounting for shoaling but neglecting refraction effects in deep water ray characteristics and (2) perturbing the initial swell frequency and direction of incidence. The results show that depth refraction of swell waves is important and should properly be accounted for in numerical wave prediction models. It is shown that for the cases considered here, differences in travel time, angular deflection and lateral displacement exceed typical values for time step, grid spacing and directional resolution presently used in shallow water wave prediction models.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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  • 5
    Electronic Resource
    Electronic Resource
    Springer
    Ocean dynamics 44 (1991), S. 1-15 
    ISSN: 1616-7228
    Source: Springer Online Journal Archives 1860-2000
    Topics: Geosciences , Physics
    Description / Table of Contents: Zusammenfassung Es werden numerische Simulationen der Transformation von Meereswellen durch Shoaling und Refraktion benutzt, um die Verteilung der Energie, mittleren Frequenz und Richtung der Wellen entlang der Nordseeküste zu untersuchen. Es werden die Veränderungen der Richtungsverteilung im Fall von Dünungen, die in die Nordsee zwischen Orkney- und Shetlandinseln bzw. Shetlandinseln und Norwegen eintreten mit Hilfe einer rückwärtsgerichteten Strahlenprojektion berechnet. Die Ergebnisse zeigen, daß dieDeutsche Bucht die Nordsee bezüglich des Seegangsklimas an den Küsten und der Verteilung der Dünungsrichtungen in ein nördliches und ein südliches Gebiet teilt und dafür sorgt, daß das Elbe- und Weserästuar vor hohen Dünungswellen aus dem Nordatlantik geschützt wird, vorausgesetzt, daß keine zusätzlichen Wellen durch lokale Windfelder in der Nordsee erzeugt werden. Die hier benutzte Methode erlaubt eine wirklichkeitsnähere Beschreibung des Seegangsklimas an den Küsten, als es bisher mit den herkömmlichen Methoden möglich war. Ferner zeigt sich, daß die örtliche Variabilität der mittleren spektralen Parameter beträchtlich ist und von den topographischen Merkmalen des Meeresbodens sowohl in der Nah- als auch in der Fernzone abhängt.
    Abstract: Résumé Des simulations numériques de la transformation des vagues liée à la variation de la vitesse de groupe en fonction de la profondeur permettent d'étudier le spectre d'énergie de la houle, sa fréquence et sa direction moyennes le long de la côte. Les distributions angulaires des houles typiques, qui entrent dans la mer du Nord par un passage entre les îles d'Orkney et les Shetlands et entre les Shetlands et la Norwège, sont calculées par rétroprojection des rayons. Les résultats montrent que leGerman Bight sépare dans une direction Nord-Sud deux domaines de houles côtières caractéristiques. Il permet de protéger les estuaires de l'Elbe et du Weser des hautes mers avec des houles de l'Atlantique Nord lorsque la géneration de la houle par les vents locaux est négligeable. Cette approche permet d'obtenir une description plus réaliste des caractéristiques des houles côtières que celle que l'on obtiendrait par des méthodes plus conventionnelles. Par ailleurs, on trouve que la distribution spectrale des différents paramètres varie considérablement avec la position et dépend de la topographie proche et lointaine.
    Notes: Summary Numerical simulations of surface wave transformation due to shoaling and refraction are used to examine the distribution of wave energy, mean frequency, and direction along the coastline of the north Sea. The variability in the directional distribution of typical swell events, entering the North Sea between the Orkney-Shetland and Shetland-Norway, are calculated from reverse ray projections. The results show that theGerman Bight divides the coastal wave climate and the directional characteristics of swell into a northern and southern domain and provides shelter to the Elbe and Weser estuaries from high sea states associated with swell from the North Atlantic when generation of waves from local winds in the North Sea is negligible. This approach provides a more realistic description of the costal were climate than has been possible with conventional techniques. Furthermore, it was found that the spatial variability in mean spectral parameters is considerable and depends on both near and far zone topographic features.
    Type of Medium: Electronic Resource
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  • 6
    Publication Date: 2020-10-20
    Description: Buoy observations from a 1999 Gulf of Mexico field program (GOM99) are used to investigate the relationships among friction velocity u*, wind speed U, and amount of swell present. A U–u*sea parameterization is developed for the case of pure wind sea (denoted by u*sea), which is linear in U over the range of available winds (2–16 m s−1). The curve shows no sign of an inflection point near 7–8 m s−1 as suggested in a 2012 paper by Andreas et al. on the basis of a transition from smooth to rough flow. When observations containing more than minimal swell energy are included, a different U–u* equation for U 〈 8 m s−1 is found, which would intersect the pure wind-sea curve about 7–8 m s−1. These two relationships yield a bilinear curve similar to Andreas et al. with an apparent inflection near 7–8 m s−1. The absence of the inflection in the GOM99 experiment pure wind-sea curve and the similarity of the GOM99 swell-dominated low wind speed to Andreas et al.’s low wind speed relationship suggest that the inflection may be due to the effect of swell and not a flow transition. Swell heights in the range of only 25–50 cm may be sufficient to impact stress at low wind speeds.
    Print ISSN: 0022-4928
    Electronic ISSN: 1520-0469
    Topics: Geography , Geosciences , Physics
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  • 7
    Publication Date: 2007-04-01
    Description: Wind-sea generation was observed during two experiments off the coast of North Carolina. One event with offshore winds of 9–11 m s−1 directed 20° from shore normal was observed with eight directional stations recording simultaneously and spanning a fetch from 4 to 83 km. An opposing swell of 1-m height and 10-s period was also present. The wind-sea part of the wave spectrum conforms to established growth curves for significant wave height and peak period, except at inner-shelf stations where a large alongshore wind-sea component was observed. At these short fetches, the mean wave direction θm was observed to change abruptly across the wind-sea spectral peak, from alongshore at lower frequencies to downwind at higher frequencies. Waves from another event with offshore winds of 6–14 m s−1 directed 20°–30° from shore normal were observed with two instrument arrays. A significant amount of low-frequency wave energy was observed to propagate alongshore from the region where the wind was strongest. These measurements are used to assess the performance of some widely used parameterizations in wave models. The modeled transition of θm across the wind-sea spectrum is smoother than that in the observations and is reproduced very differently by different parameterizations, giving insights into the appropriate level of dissipation. Calculations with the full Boltzmann integral of quartet wave–wave interactions reveal that the discrete interaction approximation parameterization for these interactions is reasonably accurate at the peak of the wind sea but overpredicts the directional spread at high frequencies. This error is well compensated by parameterizations of the wind input source term that have a narrow directional distribution. Observations also highlight deficiencies in some parameterizations of wave dissipation processes in mixed swell–wind-sea conditions.
    Print ISSN: 0022-3670
    Electronic ISSN: 1520-0485
    Topics: Geosciences , Physics
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  • 8
    Publication Date: 2018-05-01
    Description: The Lagrangian Submesoscale Experiment (LASER) involved the deployment of ~1000 biodegradable GPS-tracked Consortium for Advanced Research on Transport of Hydrocarbon in the Environment (CARTHE) drifters to measure submesoscale upper-ocean currents and their potential impact on oil spills. The experiment was conducted from January to February 2016 in the Gulf of Mexico (GoM) near the mouth of the Mississippi River, an area characterized by strong submesoscale currents. A Helmholtz-Zentrum Geesthacht (HZG) marine X-band radar (MR) on board the R/V F. G. Walton Smith was used to locate fronts and eddies by their sea surface roughness signatures. The MR data were further processed to yield near-surface current maps at ~500-m resolution up to a maximum range of ~3 km. This study employs the drifter measurements to perform the first comprehensive validation of MR near-surface current maps. For a total of 4130 MR–drifter pairs, the root-mean-square error for the current speed is 4 cm and that for the current direction is 12°. The MR samples currents at a greater effective depth than the CARTHE drifters (1–5 m vs ~0.4 m). The mean MR–drifter differences are consistent with a wave- and wind-driven vertical current profile that weakens with increasing depth and rotates clockwise from the wind direction (by 0.7% of the wind speed and 15°). The technique presented here has great potential in observational oceanography, as it allows research vessels to map the horizontal flow structure, complementing the vertical profiles measured by ADCP.
    Print ISSN: 0739-0572
    Electronic ISSN: 1520-0426
    Topics: Geography , Geosciences , Physics
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  • 9
    Publication Date: 2018-12-11
    Description: A large collaborative program has studied the coupled air‐ice‐ocean‐wave processes occurring in the Arctic during the autumn ice advance. The program included a field campaign in the western Arctic during the autumn of 2015, with in situ data collection and both aerial and satellite remote sensing. Many of the analyses have focused on using and improving forecast models. Summarizing and synthesizing the results from a series of separate papers, the overall view is of an Arctic shifting to a more seasonal system. The dramatic increase in open water extent and duration in the autumn means that large surface waves and significant surface heat fluxes are now common. When refreezing finally does occur, it is a highly variable process in space and time. Wind and wave events drive episodic advances and retreats of the ice edge, with associated variations in sea ice formation types (e.g., pancakes, nilas). This variability becomes imprinted on the winter ice cover, which in turn affects the melt season the following year.
    Print ISSN: 2169-9275
    Electronic ISSN: 2169-9291
    Topics: Geosciences , Physics
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  • 10
    Publication Date: 2017-09-01
    Description: Surface wave measurements from ships pose difficulties because of motion contamination. Cifuentes-Lorenzen et al. analyzed laser altimeter and marine X-band radar (MR) wave measurements from the Southern Ocean Gas Exchange Experiment (SOGasEx). They found that wave measurements from both sensors deteriorate precipitously at ship speeds 3 m s−1. This study demonstrates that MR can yield accurate wave frequency–direction spectra independent of ship motion. It is based on the same shipborne SOGasEx wave data but uses the MR wave retrieval method proposed by Lund et al. and a novel empirical transfer function (ETF). The ETF eliminates biases in the MR wave spectra by redistributing energy from low to high frequencies. The resulting MR wave frequency–direction spectra are shown to agree well with laser altimeter wave frequency spectra from times when the ship was near stationary and with WAVEWATCH III (WW3) model wave parameters over the full study period.
    Print ISSN: 0739-0572
    Electronic ISSN: 1520-0426
    Topics: Geography , Geosciences , Physics
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