ALBERT

Beschreibung: Observations of the spatially dependent velocity field over movable bedforms subjected to slightly skewed and asymmetric regular wave forcing were collected. The dynamics between the ripple elements is dominated by coherent vortices, characterized by the swirling strength, and evidenced in the temporal and spectral characterization. Within the boundary layer, spectral energy in the second harmonic (3 f 0 ) is amplified at the ripple slopes and is consistent with the location of the expected strongest pressure gradients. First- and second-moment velocity statistics were used to address the spatial variability of the intra-ripple hydrodynamics. Estimates of displacement and momentum thicknesses (δ* and δ mom ), are smaller than suggested by the higher harmonics, but consistently highlight areas of adverse and favorable pressure gradients. Shear stress and roughness estimates were inferred by fitting a logarithmic model to first- and second-moment statistics of the velocity field. The maximum Shields parameter was observed to peak at the stoss slope of asymmetric ripples during the strongest and shorter half-wave period (onshore). First-moment roughness estimates are similar in magnitude to bedload parameterizations provided by Li et al . [1997], and about a factor of 3 larger than second-moment estimates. Assessment of the vertical transfer of horizontal momentum derived using a Reynolds decomposition, suggests that stresses inferred from the logarithmic law using first-moment velocity statistics appropriately reproduce the mean momentum transfer for the longer and weaker offshore half-wave period.