Publication Date:
2011-08-19
Description:
The spatial evolution of a directionally spread wave field on a near-planar natural beach is examined using data from longshore arrays of pressure sensors and wave staffs at depths 10.3 and 4.1 m. High-resolution frequency-directional spectra from the deeper array are used to initialize a linear refraction model, and the resulting model predictions are compared with frequency-directional measurements at the shallow array. Linear theory inaccurately predicts both the shapes of directional spectra in shallow water and the total variances in some frequency bands. The discrepancies are largest for frequencies associated with maxima in the bicoherence spectrum, suggesting the importance of nonlinear effects.
Keywords:
OCEANOGRAPHY
Type:
Journal of Geophysical Research (ISSN 0148-0227); 95; 9645-965
Format:
text
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