Publication Date:
2022-10-20
Description:
Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2019. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Geophysical Research Letters 46(3), (2019):1531-1536, doi:10.1029/2018GL081106.
Description:
Low‐frequency surf zone eddies disperse material between the shoreline and the continental shelf, and velocity fluctuations with frequencies as low as a few mHz have been observed previously on several beaches. Here spectral estimates of surf zone currents are extended to an order of magnitude lower frequency, resolving an extremely low frequency peak of approximately 0.5 mHz that is observed for a range of beaches and wave conditions. The magnitude of the 0.5‐mHz peak increases with increasing wave energy and with spatial inhomogeneity of bathymetry or currents. The 0.5‐mHz peak may indicate the frequency for which nonlinear energy transfers from higher‐frequency, smaller‐scale motions are balanced by dissipative processes and thus may be the low‐frequency limit of the hypothesized 2‐D cascade of energy from breaking waves to lower frequency motions.
Description:
We thank R. Guza, T. Herbers, and T. Lippmann for their leadership roles during the SandyDuck and NCEX projects and the CCS (SIO), PVLAB (WHOI), and FRF (USACE) field teams for deploying, maintaining, and recovering sensors in harsh conditions over many years. Funding was provided by ASD(R&E), NSF, and ONR. The data can be obtained via https://chlthredds.erdc.dren.mil/thredds/catalog/frf/catalog.html and https://pv‐lab.org.
Description:
2019-07-02
Keywords:
Surf zone currents
;
Nearshore processes
;
Breaking waves
;
Vorticity
Repository Name:
Woods Hole Open Access Server
Type:
Article
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