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  • 1
    Publication Date: 2022-05-25
    Description: The NOAA National Underseas Research Program at Rutgers University is establishing a Long-term Ecosystem Observatory off New Jersey in 15 meters of water. As part of a bottom boundary layer study at this site, WHOI deployed a bottom instrument frame during the winter of 1993-94. The bottom instrument carried a current meter, a vertical array of optical back scattering sensors, temperature, pressure and conductivity sensors and an Acoustical Backscattering Sensor. The deployment was partially successful as the acoustic system failed. The other instrumentation worked well for 3 weeks returning data on winter conditions at the site. The extreme winter waves ended the experiment by tipping the instrument over on its side. The optical instrumentation was calibrated with sediment from the site, and the results from the experiment presented.
    Description: Funding was provided by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration through Contract No. 4-25020 to Rutgers/SUNY National Underseas Research Program.
    Keywords: Sediment transport ; LEO-15 ; Acoustic backscatter
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Technical Report
    Format: 2848458 bytes
    Format: application/pdf
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  • 2
    Publication Date: 2022-05-25
    Description: Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2005. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 110 (2005): C09025, doi:10.1029/2004JC002727.
    Description: A large flood of the Eel River, northern California, created a thick sediment deposit between water depths of 50 and 70 m in January 1997. The freshwater plume, however, confined sediment delivery to water depths shallower than 30 m. Mechanisms proposed to explain the apparent cross-shelf transport include dispersal by oceanographic currents, resuspension by energetic waves, and gravitationally forced transport of a thin layer of fluidized mud. Field observations indicate that these processes were all active but cannot determine their relative significance or whether these mechanisms alone explain the location, size, and timing of deposition. Approximately 30% of the sediment delivered by the Eel River is accounted for in the midshelf mud bed and inner shelf, but the fate of the remaining 70% is uncertain. A three-dimensional, hydrodynamic model was used to examine potential mechanisms of sediment transport on the Eel River shelf. The model includes suspended sediment transport and was modified to account for a thin, near-bed layer of fluidized mud. It was used to simulate flood dispersal on the Eel River shelf, to compare the relative importance of transport within the near-bed fluid mud layer to suspended sediment transport, and to evaluate sediment budgets for floods. Settling properties of fine-grained sediment, both within the flood plume and the fluid mud layer, critically impact depositional patterns. To a lesser degree, wind-driven ocean currents influence the volume of sediment that escapes the shelf, and wave magnitude affects the cross-shelf location of flood deposits. Though dilute suspension accounts for a large fraction of total flux, cross-shelf transport by gravitational forcing appears necessary to produce a midshelf mud deposit similar in volume, location, and timing to those seen offshore of the Eel River.
    Description: The Office of Naval Research’s Coastal Geoscience Program supported this through program N0014-01-1-008.
    Keywords: Flood sediment dispersal ; Northern California shelf ; Sediment transport
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Article
    Format: application/pdf
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  • 3
    Publication Date: 2022-05-25
    Description: Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2018. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 123 (2018): 6779-6799, doi:10.1029/2017JC013625.
    Description: Observations of water levels, waves, currents, and bathymetry collected for a month at an unstratified tidal inlet with a shallow (1 to 2 m deep) ebb shoal are used to evaluate the asymmetry in flows and dynamics owing to inertia and waves. Along‐channel currents ranged from −1.5 to 0.6 m/s (positive inland) inside the main (3 to 5 m deep) channel crossing the ebb shoal. Net discharge is negligible, and ebb dominance of the channel flows is owing to inflow and outflow asymmetries near the inlet mouth. Offshore wave heights ranged from 0.5 to 2.5 m. During moderate to large wave events (offshore significant wave heights 〉1.2 m), wave forcing enhanced onshore mass flux near the shoal edge and inside the inlet, leading to reduced ebb flow dominance. Momentum balances estimated with the water depths, currents, and waves simulated with a quasi 3‐D numerical model reproduce the momentum balances estimated from the observations reasonably well. Both observations and simulations suggest that ebb‐dominant bottom stresses are balanced by the ebb‐dominant pressure gradient and the tidally asymmetric inertia, which is a sink (source) of momentum on flood (ebb). Simulations with and without waves suggest that waves drive local and nonlocal changes in the water levels and flows. Specifically, breaking waves at the offshore edge of the ebb shoal induce setup and partially block the ebb jet (local effects), which leads to a more onshore‐directed mass flux, changes to the advection across the ebb shoal, and increased water levels inside the inlet mouth (nonlocal effects).
    Description: WHOI Coastal Ocean Institute Student Research; Office of the Assistant Secretary of Defense for Research and Engineering; National Defense Science and Engineering; National Science Foundation; Office of Naval Research
    Description: 2019-03-22
    Keywords: Inlets ; Waves ; Inertia ; Tidal asymmetry ; Ebb shoal
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Article
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