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  • 1
    Publication Date: 2022-05-25
    Description: The NOAA National Underseas Research Program at Rutgers University is establishing a Long-term Ecosystem Observatory off New Jersey in 15 meters of water. As part of a bottom boundary layer study at this site, WHOI deployed a bottom instrument frame during the winter of 1993-94. The bottom instrument carried a current meter, a vertical array of optical back scattering sensors, temperature, pressure and conductivity sensors and an Acoustical Backscattering Sensor. The deployment was partially successful as the acoustic system failed. The other instrumentation worked well for 3 weeks returning data on winter conditions at the site. The extreme winter waves ended the experiment by tipping the instrument over on its side. The optical instrumentation was calibrated with sediment from the site, and the results from the experiment presented.
    Description: Funding was provided by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration through Contract No. 4-25020 to Rutgers/SUNY National Underseas Research Program.
    Keywords: Sediment transport ; LEO-15 ; Acoustic backscatter
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Technical Report
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  • 2
    Publication Date: 2022-05-25
    Description: Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2005. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 110 (2005): C09025, doi:10.1029/2004JC002727.
    Description: A large flood of the Eel River, northern California, created a thick sediment deposit between water depths of 50 and 70 m in January 1997. The freshwater plume, however, confined sediment delivery to water depths shallower than 30 m. Mechanisms proposed to explain the apparent cross-shelf transport include dispersal by oceanographic currents, resuspension by energetic waves, and gravitationally forced transport of a thin layer of fluidized mud. Field observations indicate that these processes were all active but cannot determine their relative significance or whether these mechanisms alone explain the location, size, and timing of deposition. Approximately 30% of the sediment delivered by the Eel River is accounted for in the midshelf mud bed and inner shelf, but the fate of the remaining 70% is uncertain. A three-dimensional, hydrodynamic model was used to examine potential mechanisms of sediment transport on the Eel River shelf. The model includes suspended sediment transport and was modified to account for a thin, near-bed layer of fluidized mud. It was used to simulate flood dispersal on the Eel River shelf, to compare the relative importance of transport within the near-bed fluid mud layer to suspended sediment transport, and to evaluate sediment budgets for floods. Settling properties of fine-grained sediment, both within the flood plume and the fluid mud layer, critically impact depositional patterns. To a lesser degree, wind-driven ocean currents influence the volume of sediment that escapes the shelf, and wave magnitude affects the cross-shelf location of flood deposits. Though dilute suspension accounts for a large fraction of total flux, cross-shelf transport by gravitational forcing appears necessary to produce a midshelf mud deposit similar in volume, location, and timing to those seen offshore of the Eel River.
    Description: The Office of Naval Research’s Coastal Geoscience Program supported this through program N0014-01-1-008.
    Keywords: Flood sediment dispersal ; Northern California shelf ; Sediment transport
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Article
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  • 3
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    Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution
    Publication Date: 2022-05-25
    Description: Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Ocean Engineer at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution January 1994
    Description: In 1991 the Heard Island Feasibility Test demonstrated that it is possible to transmit coded acoustic signals nearly half way around the world. One of the key issues in the feasibility test was to determine the spatial structure of the received transmissions. In this thesis, data from the Canadian Defense Research Establishment Pacific horizontal line array is used to form an estimate of the directional power spectrum. This spectrum determines if any horizontal multipath is detectable. The preliminary signal conditioning, including frequency spectrum estimation and demodulation required before beamforming is described. Conventional and adaptive beamforming methods are examined with synthetic data to demonstrate the limitations on the directional spectrum results. The principle result of this work is that no stable horizontal multipath is evident. The mean arrival angle for the five hours of data analyzed is 212° ± 1.5°.
    Description: The Office of Naval Research provided funding for the author under the ONR fellowship program.
    Keywords: Signal processing ; Sound ; Hearing ; Underwater acoustics
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Thesis
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  • 4
    Publication Date: 2022-05-25
    Description: Author Posting. © The Author(s), 2012. This is the author's version of the work. It is posted here by permission of Elsevier B.V. for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Continental Shelf Research 60, Suppl. (2013): S40–S57, doi:10.1016/j.csr.2012.02.004.
    Description: Tidal flats at a river mouth feature estuarine and fluvial processes that distinguish them from tidal flats without river discharge. We combine field observations and a numerical model to investigate hydrodynamics and sediment transport on deltaic tidal flats at the mouth of the Skagit River, in Puget Sound, WA during the spring freshet. River discharge over tidal flats supplies a mean volume flux, freshwater buoyancy, and suspended sediment. Despite the shallow water depths, strong horizontal density fronts and stratification develop, resulting in a baroclinic pressure gradient and tidal variability in stratification that favor flood-directed bottom stresses. In addition to these estuarine processes, the river discharge during periods of low tide drains through a network of distributary channels on the exposed tidal flats, with strongly ebb-directed stresses. The net sediment transport depends on the balance between estuarine and fluvial processes, and is modulated on a spring-neap time scale by the tides of Puget Sound. We find that the baroclinic pressure gradient and periodic stratification enhance trapping of sediment delivered by the river on the tidal flats, particularly during neap tides, and that sediment trapping also depends on settling and scour lags, particularly for finer particles. The primary means of moving sediment off of the tidal flats are the high velocities and stresses in the distributary channels during late stages of ebbs and around low tides, with sediment export predominantly occurring during spring low tides that expose a greater portion of the flats. The 3-d finite volume numerical model was evaluated against observations and had good skill overall, particularly for velocity and salinity. The model performed poorly at simulating the shallow flows around low tides as the flats drained and river discharge was confined to distributary channels, due in part to limitations in grid resolution, seabed sediment and bathymetric data, and the wetting-and-drying scheme. Consequently, the model predicted greater sediment retention on the flats than was observed.
    Description: This work was supported by the Office of Naval Research.
    Keywords: Tidal flats ; Sediment transport ; Sediment trapping ; Distributary channels ; Stratification ; Salinity fronts ; Tidal asymmetry ; Velocity skewness ; Numerical model
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Preprint
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  • 5
    Publication Date: 2022-05-25
    Description: Author Posting. © IEEE, 2007. This article is posted here by permission of IEEE for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in IEEE Journal of Oceanic Engineering 32 (2007): 249-259, doi:10.1109/JOE.2007.890986.
    Description: The 3-D flow field and bed stress surrounding a short cylinder in response to combined wave and mean-flow forcing events is examined. Model simulations are performed with a 3-D nonhydrostatic computational fluid dynamics model, FLOW-3D. The model is forced with a range of characteristic tidal and wave velocities as observed in 12–15 m of water at the Martha's Vineyard Coastal Observatory (MVCO, Edgartown, MA). The 2.4-m-long and 0.5-m diameter cylinder is buried 10% of the diameter on a flat, fixed bed. Regions of incipient motion are identified through local estimates of the Shields parameter exceeding the critical value. Potential areas of sediment deposition are identified with local estimates of the Rouse parameter exceeding ten. The model predictions of sediment response are in general in agreement with field observations of seabed morphology obtained over a one-week period during the 2003–2004 MVCO mine burial experiment. Both observations and simulations show potential transport occurring at the ends of the mine in wave-dominated events. Mean flows greater than 10 cm/s lead to the formation of larger scour pits upstream of the cylinder. Deposition in both cases tends to occur along the sides, near the center of mass of the mine. However, the fixed-bed assumption prohibits the prediction of full perimeter scour as is observed in nature. Predicted scour and burial regimes for a range of wave and mean-flow combinations are established.
    Description: This work was supported in part by the U.S. Office of Naval Research under the mine burial project N00014-00-1-0570. The work of K. A. Hatton was supported by the National Science Foundation Graduate Research Fellowship.
    Keywords: Mine ; Scour ; Sediment transport
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Article
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  • 6
    Publication Date: 2022-05-25
    Description: © The Author(s), 2015. This article is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 120 (2015): 5698–5709, doi:10.1002/2015JC010872.
    Description: Recent field investigations of the damping of ocean surface waves over fluid muds have revealed waves on the interface between the thin layer of fluid mud and the overlying much thicker column of clear water, accompanied by bed forms on the erodible seabed beneath the fluid mud. The frequencies and wavelengths of the observed interfacial waves are qualitatively consistent with the linear dispersion relationship for long interfacial waves, but the forcing mechanism is not known. To understand the forcing, a linear model is proposed, based on the layer-averaged hydrostatic equations for the fluid mud, together with the Meyer-Peter-Mueller equation for the sediment transport within the underlying seabed, both subject to oscillatory forcing by the surface waves. If the underlying seabed is nonerodible and flat, the model indicates parametric instability to interfacial waves, but the threshold for instability is not met by the observations. If the underlying seabed is erodible, the model indicates that perturbations to the seabed elevation in the presence of the oscillatory forcing create interfacial waves, which in turn produce stresses within the fluid mud that force a net transport of sediment within the seabed toward the bed form crests, thus causing growth of both bed forms and interfacial waves. The frequencies, wavelengths, and growth rates are in qualitative agreement with the observations. A competition between mixing created by the interfacial waves and gravitational settling might control the thickness, density, and viscosity of the fluid muds during periods of strong forcing.
    Description: This study was supported by the Coastal Geodynamics Program at the Office of Naval Research and by the Physical Oceanography Program at the National Science Foundation.
    Keywords: Sediment transport ; Fluid mud ; Instability
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
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  • 7
    Publication Date: 2022-05-25
    Description: Author Posting. © IEEE, 2007. This article is posted here by permission of IEEE for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in IEEE Journal of Oceanic Engineering 32 (2007): 150-166, doi:10.1109/JOE.2007.890956.
    Description: Several experiments to measure postimpact burial of seafloor mines by scour and fill have been conducted near the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution's Martha's Vineyard Coastal Observatory (MVCO, Edgartown, MA). The sedimentary environment at MVCO consists of a series of rippled scour depressions (RSDs), which are large scale bedforms with alternating areas of coarse and fine sand. This allows simultaneous mine burial experiments in both coarse and fine sand under almost identical hydrodynamic forcing conditions. Two preliminary sets of mine scour burial experiments were conducted during winters 2001?2002 in fine sand and 2002?2003 in coarse sand with a single optically instrumented mine in the field of view of a rotary sidescan sonar. From October 2003 to April of 2004, ten instrumented mines were deployed along with several sonar systems to image mine behavior and to characterize bedform and oceanographic processes. In fine sand, the sonar imagery of the mines revealed that large scour pits form around the mines during energetic wave events. Mines fell into their own scour pits, aligned with the dominant wave crests and became level with the ambient seafloor after several energetic wave events. In quiescent periods, after the energetic wave events, the scour pits episodically infilled with mud. After several scour and infilling events, the scour pits were completely filled and a layer of fine sand covered both the mines and the scour pits, leaving no visible evidence of the mines. In the coarse sand, mines were observed to bury until the exposed height above the ripple crests was approximately the same as the large wave orbital ripple height (wavelengths of 50?125 cm and heights of 10?20 cm). A hypothesis for the physical mechanism responsible for this partial burial in the presence of large bedforms is that the mines bury until they present roughly the same hydrodynamic roughness as the orbital-scale bedforms present in coarse sand.
    Description: This work was supported in part by the U.S. Office of Naval Research under Grants N00014-01-10564 and N0004-01-1-0847, by the Department of Defense Presidential Early Career Award, and by the U.S. Naval Research Laboratory (NRL) Core funding under Program 061115N.
    Keywords: Acoustic imaging ; Mine burial ; Scour ; Sediments
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Article
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  • 8
    Publication Date: 2022-05-25
    Description: Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2004. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 109 (2004): F02004, doi:10.1029/2003JF000096.
    Description: A 9 month time series of tripod-mounted optical and acoustic measurements of sediment concentration and bed elevation was used to examine depositional processes in relationship to hydrodynamic variables in the Hudson River estuary. A series of cores was also taken directly under and adjacent to the acoustic measurements to examine the relation between the depositional processes and the resulting fine-scale stratigraphy. The measurements reveal that deposition occurs as a result of sediment flux convergence behind a salinity front and that the accumulation rates are sufficient to deposit up to 25 cm of new high-porosity sediment in a single ebb-tidal phase. Subsequent dewatering and erosion reduces the thickness of the initial deposit to several centimeters. These depositional events were only observed on spring tides. Ten depositional events during two spring tidal cycles produced a seasonal deposit of 18 cm, consistent with estimates of seasonal deposition from cores. A proxy for near-bed suspended grain size variations was estimated from the combined acoustic and optical measurements, implying that the erosional processes resuspend only the finer-grained sediments, thus leaving behind silt and very fine grained sand beds. The thickness of the deposited homogenous clayey silt beds, and the vertical separation between beds interlaminated with silt and very fine sand, are roughly consistent with the acoustic measurements of changes in bed elevations during deposition and erosion. The variability in individual bed thickness is the result of variations of processes over an individual tidal cycle and is not a product of variations over the spring neap fortnightly timescale.
    Description: The authors would like to acknowledge the Hudson River Foundation, who provided funding for this work under grant 009/00A.
    Keywords: Sediment transport ; Estuarine processes ; Fluid mud
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Article
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  • 9
    Publication Date: 2022-10-20
    Description: Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2021. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 126(2), (2021): e2020JC016773, https://doi.org/10.1029/2020JC016773.
    Description: A new modeling methodology for ripple dynamics driven by oscillatory flows using a Eulerian two‐phase flow approach is presented in order to bridge the research gap between near‐bed sediment transport via ripple migration and suspended load transport dictated by ripple induced vortices. Reynolds‐averaged Eulerian two‐phase equations for fluid phase and sediment phase are solved in a two‐dimensional vertical domain with a k‐ε closure for flow turbulence and particle stresses closures for short‐lived collision and enduring contact. The model can resolve full profiles of sediment transport without making conventional near‐bed load and suspended load assumptions. The model is validated with an oscillating tunnel experiment of orbital ripple driven by a Stokes second‐order (onshore velocity skewed) oscillatory flow with a good agreement in the flow velocity and sediment concentration. Although the suspended sediment concentration far from the ripple in the dilute region was underpredicted by the present model, the model predicts an onshore ripple migration rate that is in very good agreement with the measured value. Another orbital ripple case driven by symmetric sinusoidal oscillatory flow is also conducted to contrast the effect of velocity skewness. The model is able to capture a net offshore‐directed suspended load transport flux due to the asymmetric primary vortex consistent with laboratory observation. More importantly, the model can resolve the asymmetry of onshore‐directed near‐bed sediment flux associated with more intense boundary layer flow speed‐up during onshore flow cycle and sediment avalanching near the lee ripple flank which force the onshore ripple migration.
    Description: This study is supported by National Science Foundation (Grant no. OCE‐1635151) and Strategic Environmental Research and Development Program (Grant no. MR20‐1478).
    Description: 2021-06-29
    Keywords: Orbital ripples ; Ripple migration ; Sediment transport ; Two‐phase model
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
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  • 10
    Publication Date: 2022-10-20
    Description: Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2021. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface 126(7), (2021): e2021JF006132, https://doi.org/10.1029/2021JF006132.
    Description: The evolution of ripple geometries and their equilibrium states due to different wave forcing parameters are investigated by a Reynolds-averaged two-phase model, SedFoam, in a two-dimensional domain. Modeled ripple geometries, for a given uniform grain diameter, show a good agreement with ripple predictors that include the wave period effect explicitly, in addition to the wave orbital excursion length (or wave orbital velocity amplitude). Furthermore, using a series of numerical experiments, the ripple's response to a step-change in the wave forcing is studied. The model is capable of simulating “splitting,” “sliding,” “merging,” and “protruding” as the ripples evolve to a new equilibrium state. The model can also simulate the transition to sheet flow in energetic wave conditions and ripple reformation from a nearly flat bed condition. Simulation results reveal that the equilibrium state is such that the “primary” vortices reach half of the ripple length. Furthermore, an analysis of the suspended load and near-bed load ratio in the equilibrium state indicates that in the orbital ripple regime, the near-bed load is dominant while the suspended load is conducive to the ripple decaying regime (suborbital ripples) and sheet flow condition.
    Description: This study is supported by National Science Foundation (OCE-1635151 and OCE-1924532) and Strategic Environmental Research and Development Program (MR20-1478).
    Description: 2021-12-24
    Keywords: Sand ripple ; Ripple evolution ; Sediment transport ; Two-phase modeling
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Article
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