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  • 1
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    Modeled three-dimensional currents and eddies on an alongshore-variable barred beach (2021)
    American Geophysical Union
    Details
    Publication Date: 2022-10-20
    Description: Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2021. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 126(7), (2021): e2020JC016899, https://doi.org/10.1029/2020JC016899.
    Description: Circulation in the nearshore region, which is critical for material transport along the coast and between the surf zone and the inner shelf, includes strong vortical motions. The horizontal length scales and vertical structure associated with vortical motions are not well documented on alongshore-variable beaches. Here, a three-dimensional phase-resolving numerical model, Simulating WAves till SHore (SWASH), is compared with surfzone waves and flows on a barred beach, and is used to investigate surfzone eddies. Model simulations with measured bathymetry reproduce trends in the mean surfzone circulation patterns, including alongshore currents and rip current circulation cells observed for offshore wave heights from 0.5 to 2.0 m and incident wave directions from 0 to 15° relative to shore normal. The length scales of simulated eddies, quantified using the alongshore wavenumber spectra of vertical vorticity, suggest that increasing wave directional spread intensifies small-scale eddies ( (10) m). Simulations with bathymetric variability ranging from alongshore uniform to highly alongshore variable indicate that large-scale eddies ( (100) m) may be enhanced by surfzone bathymetric variability, whereas small-scale eddies ( (10) m) are less dependent on bathymetric variability. The simulated vertical dependence of the magnitude and mean length scale (centroid) of the alongshore wavenumber spectra of vertical vorticity and very low-frequency (f ≈ 0.005 Hz) currents is weak in the outer surf zone, and decreases toward the shoreline. The vertical dependence in the simulations may be affected by the vertical structure of turbulence, mean shear, and bottom boundary layer dynamics.
    Description: Support was provided by the University of Washington Royalty Research Fund, the National Science Foundation, the Office of Naval Research, a National Defense Science and Engineering Graduate Fellowship, a Vannevar Bush Faculty Fellowship, the United States Army Corps of Engineers, the United States Coastal Research Program, Sea Grant, and the WHOI Investment in Science Program.
    Description: 2021-12-26
    Keywords: Surf zone ; Eddies ; Circulation ; Vorticity ; Wave breaking ; Modeling
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Article
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  • 2
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    Field observations of the evolution of plunging-wave shapes (2021)
    American Geophysical Union
    Details
    Publication Date: 2022-10-20
    Description: © The Author(s), 2021. This article is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License. The definitive version was published in O’Dea, A., Brodie, K., & Elgar, S. Field observations of the evolution of plunging-wave shapes. Geophysical Research Letters, 48(16), (2021): e2021GL093664, https://doi.org/10.1029/2021GL093664.
    Description: There are few high-resolution field observations of the water surface during breaking owing to the difficulty of collecting spatially dense measurements in the surf zone, and thus the factors influencing breaking-wave shape in field conditions remain poorly understood. Here, the shape and evolution of plunging breakers is analyzed quantitatively using three-dimensional scans of the water surface collected at high spatial and temporal resolution with a multi-beam terrestrial lidar scanner. The observed internal void shapes in plunging breakers agree well with previously developed theoretical shapes at the onset of breaking, and become more elongated and less steep as breaking progresses. The normalized void area increases as the local bottom slope steepens and as the breaking depth decreases. The void shape becomes more circular as the local bottom slope and the ratio of breaking water depth to wavelength increase, as well as in conditions with opposing winds.
    Description: Funding was provided by the U.S. Department of Defense (DoD) Laboratory University Collaboration Initiative program, the U.S. Army ERDC Military Engineering Basic Research Program from the Assistant Secretary of the Army for Acquisition, Logistics, and Technology, the Vannevar Bush Faculty Fellowship program, the National Science Foundation, and the U.S. Coastal Research Program. This project was supported in part by an appointment to the Research Participation Program at the DoD, administered by the Oak Ridge Institute for Science and Education through an interagency agreement between the U.S. Department of Energy and the DoD.
    Keywords: Lidar ; Breaking waves ; Plunging waves ; Surf-zone processes ; Remote sensing
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Article
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  • 3
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    Field evidence of inverse energy cascades in the surfzone (2021)
    American Meteorological Society
    Details
    Publication Date: 2022-05-26
    Description: Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2020. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 50(8),(2020): 2315-2321, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-19-0327.1.
    Description: Low-frequency currents and eddies transport sediment, pathogens, larvae, and heat along the coast and between the shoreline and deeper water. Here, low-frequency currents (between 0.1 and 4.0 mHz) observed in shallow surfzone waters for 120 days during a wide range of wave conditions are compared with theories for generation by instabilities of alongshore currents, by ocean-wave-induced sea surface modulations, and by a nonlinear transfer of energy from breaking waves to low-frequency motions via a two-dimensional inverse energy cascade. For these data, the low-frequency currents are not strongly correlated with shear of the alongshore current, with the strength of the alongshore current, or with wave-group statistics. In contrast, on many occasions, the low-frequency currents are consistent with an inverse energy cascade from breaking waves. The energy of the low-frequency surfzone currents increases with the directional spread of the wave field, consistent with vorticity injection by short-crested breaking waves, and structure functions increase with spatial lags, consistent with a cascade of energy from few-meter-scale vortices to larger-scale motions. These results include the first field evidence for the inverse energy cascade in the surfzone and suggest that breaking waves and nonlinear energy transfers should be considered when estimating nearshore transport processes across and along the coast.
    Description: Funding was provided by a Vannevar Bush Faculty Fellowship [from OUSD(R&E)] and NSF.
    Keywords: Ocean ; Coastlines ; Eddies ; Wave breaking
    Repository Name: Woods Hole Open Access Server
    Type: Article
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